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Bakuchiol [(1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-1-yl]phenol, a prenylated phenolic monoterpene found in the seeds and leaves of various plants, particularly Psoralea corylifolia, has been used to treat a broad array of disorders, including skin conditions, in the traditional medical practices of China, Japan, and Korea, as well as Ayurvedic medicine in India.1-6 Specifically, the seeds of as well as cardiovascular diseases, nephritis, osteoporosis, and cancer.7-9
This primary active ingredient is reputed to exert antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiaging, and estrogen-like functions, and recent data suggest anticancer activity, including activity against skin cancer. Its antiaging properties manifest via preservation of cutaneous collagen.4 The plant itself has displayed a wide range of biological functions, such as antibacterial, anticancer, cytotoxic, cardiac, diaphoretic, diuretic, stimulant, aphrodisiac, and tonifying activities.8,9 A 2016 quantitative analysis of Psoralea corylifolia and seven of its standard constituents (psoralen, angelicin, neobavaisoflavone, psoralidin, isobavachalcone, bavachinin, and bakuchiol) using high-performance liquid chromatography revealed that bakuchiol is the strongest phytochemical ingredient in the plant, which the investigators found also confers neuroprotective and antineuroinflammatory benefits.3
Other species contain bakuchiol, and its biological activities have been harnessed in other folk medical traditions. The monoterpene is an important constituent found in Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, which is used for its anti-inflammatory properties in traditional Korean medicine.10 Further, bakuchiol and 3-hydroxy-bakuchiol have been identified as key components isolated from Psoralea glandulosa, which is a shrub used in Chilean folk medicine to treat cutaneous disorders engendered by bacteria and fungus.11 Topical applications of bakuchiol have been demonstrated to confer antiaging benefits.12 This column briefly identifies some of the various uses emerging for this compelling botanical agent.
Antiaging activities
In 2014, Yu et al. found that bakuchiol may impart antiaging benefits by supporting the cellular activity of the expression level of human skin fibroblasts (ESF-1), as well as production of collagen types I and III, while reducing the matrix metalloproteinase-1 mRNA expression.13
The same year, Chaudhuri et al. compared the skin care–related activities of retinol and bakuchiol, finding their gene expression profiles very similar. In addition, they observed that bakuchiol up-regulated collagen types I and IV in a DNA microarray study and stimulated type III collagen production in a model of mature fibroblasts. Further, the investigators formulated bakuchiol into a skin care product and tested it clinically, with twice daily applications over 12 weeks yielding significant amelioration in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and firmness, as well as overall diminished photodamage without provoking redness. They concluded that bakuchiol can act as an antiaging agent through regulation of gene expression comparable to retinol.1
Retinoids without reactions?
In 2017, Ma et al. set out to synthesize and test in psoriatic cytokine–treated cultures of keratinocytes and organotypic skin substitutes a new substance created by combining two skin-active compounds (bakuchiol and salicylic acid) into bakuchiol salicylate (bakusylan), with the intention of rendering a novel functional retinoid. The researchers reported that the gene expression profile showed elimination of various retinoid-like proinflammatory responses, without a loss of normalizing activity. They concluded that their work may result in a new class of functional retinoids.14
Early this year, Dhaliwal et al. reported on a randomized, double-blind, 12-week study of 44 patients who applied either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice daily or retinol 0.5% cream daily. Facial photographs were evaluated at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks, and a blinded dermatologist rated pigmentation and erythema. Side effects were also noted by subjects in tolerability assessment questionnaires. Both compounds significantly reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical variance found between the two. More facial skin scaling and stinging was experienced by the retinol group. The investigators concluded that bakuchiol exhibits photoaging activity comparable with retinol and appears to be an emerging alternative to retinol because it is better tolerated.12 Notably, there is one report to date of an allergic reaction to topical bakuchiol.15
Topical combination therapies for hyperpigmentation, photodamage, and acne
Bakuchiol was a key ingredient incorporated into a 0.5% retinol treatment evaluated in a 12-week, open-label, single-center clinical-usage trial of 44 women with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and photodamaged facial skin who took a dual product regimen. This 2016 study showed that the retinol and vitamin C facial regimen yielded a statistically significant amelioration in clinical grading of all parameters.16
A 2015 randomized controlled clinical trial in 111 subjects evaluated the use of adapalene 0.1% gel and a formulation containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract, and mannitol in patients with acne. Patients were randomized to the adapalene and botanical formulation or adapalene and vehicle cream for 2 months. Both treatment groups experienced improvements according to all measured outcomes. The botanical formulation was associated with a statistically significant edge over the vehicle combination in reducing inflammatory lesions, investigator global assessment, and intensity of seborrhea. Quality of life was also perceived to be better with the combination of adapalene and the bakuchiol-containing product, which was deemed to be safe with good local tolerability.17
A subsequent evaluation by a different team also considered the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of this combination product via in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. The work by Trompezinski et al. revealed that bakuchiol displays nearly twice the antioxidative potential asthat of vitamin E. The bakuchiol-containing cream was shown in acne patients to successfully regulate sebum composition by raising linolenic and sapienic acid levels while lowering oleic acid levels. Its efficacy against Propionibacterium acnes was also suggested by a decrease in the number of skin surface porphyrins. The investigators concluded that the formulation serves as an effective adjuvant acne treatment by attacking inflammation, dysseborrhea, and proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes.18
Anticancer activity
In 2016, Kim et al. demonstrated that bakuchiol exhibits chemopreventive activity by hindering epidermal growth factor (EGF)–induced neoplastic cell transformation. In what was the first mechanistic study to reveal molecular targets for the anticancer activity of this substance, the investigators found that bakuchiol also reduced the viability and suppressed anchorage-independent growth of A431 human epithelial carcinoma cells. They identified Hck, Blk, and p38 MAPK as the molecular targets of what they identified as a potent anticancer compound.2
Skin-whitening potential
In 2010, Ohno et al. found that bakuchiol, along with other ingredients, isolated from Piper longum demonstrated strong suppressive activity against melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells and may have potential to affect melanin synthesis in human skin.19 Further, with use of a new method for screening tyrosinase, Cheng et al. found in 2017 that four substances used in traditional Chinese medicine (quercetin, kaempferol, bavachinin, and bakuchiol) displayed the potential for inhibiting tyrosinase.20
Conclusion
A compound that acts like a retinoid – yielding antiacne and antiaging effects – without provoking irritation? Most dermatologists and their patients would say, sign me up. Bakuchiol, an active ingredient in various plants, especially Psoralea corylifolia, seems to present that kind of profile. While more research is necessary, experience with this herbal ingredient in traditional medicine and an increasing body of research, including clinical results, provides reasons for optimism that this ingredient may have a versatile role to play in topical skin care, particularly in its retinoid-like functions.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002) and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), as well as a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
References
1. Chaudhuri RK et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30.
2. Kim JE et al. Oncotarget. 2016 Mar 22;7(12):14616-27.
3. Kim YJ et al. Molecules. 2016 Aug 17. doi: 10.3390/molecules21081076.
4. Xin Z et al. Pharmacol Res. 2019 Mar;141:208-13.
5. Lev-Tov H. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):253-4.
6. Shrestha S et al. J Ayurveda Integr Med. 2018 Jul - Sep; 9(3):209-12.
7. Li CC et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016. doi: 10.1155/2016/8108643.
8. Hu C et al. Fitoterapia. 2015 Oct;106:129-34.
9. Yan DM et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2010 Apr 21;128(3):697-702.
10. Choi SY et al. J Med Food. 2010 Aug;13(4):1019-23.
11. Madrid A et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012 Dec 18;144(3):809-11.
12. Dhaliwal S et al. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):289-96.
13. Yu Q et al. Zhong Yao Cai. 2014 Apr;37(4):632-5.
14. Ma S et al. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2017 Apr;42(3):251-60.
15. Malinauskiene L et al. Contact Dermatitis. 2019 Jun;80(6):398-9.
16. Herndon JH Jr, et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Apr;15(4):476-82.
17. Poláková K et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Apr 10;8:187-91.
18. Trompezinski S et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016 Aug 31;9:233-9.
19. Ohno O et al. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2010;74(7):1504-6.
20. Cheng M et al. Electrophoresis. 2017 Feb;38(3-4):486-93.
Bakuchiol [(1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-1-yl]phenol, a prenylated phenolic monoterpene found in the seeds and leaves of various plants, particularly Psoralea corylifolia, has been used to treat a broad array of disorders, including skin conditions, in the traditional medical practices of China, Japan, and Korea, as well as Ayurvedic medicine in India.1-6 Specifically, the seeds of as well as cardiovascular diseases, nephritis, osteoporosis, and cancer.7-9
This primary active ingredient is reputed to exert antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiaging, and estrogen-like functions, and recent data suggest anticancer activity, including activity against skin cancer. Its antiaging properties manifest via preservation of cutaneous collagen.4 The plant itself has displayed a wide range of biological functions, such as antibacterial, anticancer, cytotoxic, cardiac, diaphoretic, diuretic, stimulant, aphrodisiac, and tonifying activities.8,9 A 2016 quantitative analysis of Psoralea corylifolia and seven of its standard constituents (psoralen, angelicin, neobavaisoflavone, psoralidin, isobavachalcone, bavachinin, and bakuchiol) using high-performance liquid chromatography revealed that bakuchiol is the strongest phytochemical ingredient in the plant, which the investigators found also confers neuroprotective and antineuroinflammatory benefits.3
Other species contain bakuchiol, and its biological activities have been harnessed in other folk medical traditions. The monoterpene is an important constituent found in Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, which is used for its anti-inflammatory properties in traditional Korean medicine.10 Further, bakuchiol and 3-hydroxy-bakuchiol have been identified as key components isolated from Psoralea glandulosa, which is a shrub used in Chilean folk medicine to treat cutaneous disorders engendered by bacteria and fungus.11 Topical applications of bakuchiol have been demonstrated to confer antiaging benefits.12 This column briefly identifies some of the various uses emerging for this compelling botanical agent.
Antiaging activities
In 2014, Yu et al. found that bakuchiol may impart antiaging benefits by supporting the cellular activity of the expression level of human skin fibroblasts (ESF-1), as well as production of collagen types I and III, while reducing the matrix metalloproteinase-1 mRNA expression.13
The same year, Chaudhuri et al. compared the skin care–related activities of retinol and bakuchiol, finding their gene expression profiles very similar. In addition, they observed that bakuchiol up-regulated collagen types I and IV in a DNA microarray study and stimulated type III collagen production in a model of mature fibroblasts. Further, the investigators formulated bakuchiol into a skin care product and tested it clinically, with twice daily applications over 12 weeks yielding significant amelioration in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and firmness, as well as overall diminished photodamage without provoking redness. They concluded that bakuchiol can act as an antiaging agent through regulation of gene expression comparable to retinol.1
Retinoids without reactions?
In 2017, Ma et al. set out to synthesize and test in psoriatic cytokine–treated cultures of keratinocytes and organotypic skin substitutes a new substance created by combining two skin-active compounds (bakuchiol and salicylic acid) into bakuchiol salicylate (bakusylan), with the intention of rendering a novel functional retinoid. The researchers reported that the gene expression profile showed elimination of various retinoid-like proinflammatory responses, without a loss of normalizing activity. They concluded that their work may result in a new class of functional retinoids.14
Early this year, Dhaliwal et al. reported on a randomized, double-blind, 12-week study of 44 patients who applied either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice daily or retinol 0.5% cream daily. Facial photographs were evaluated at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks, and a blinded dermatologist rated pigmentation and erythema. Side effects were also noted by subjects in tolerability assessment questionnaires. Both compounds significantly reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical variance found between the two. More facial skin scaling and stinging was experienced by the retinol group. The investigators concluded that bakuchiol exhibits photoaging activity comparable with retinol and appears to be an emerging alternative to retinol because it is better tolerated.12 Notably, there is one report to date of an allergic reaction to topical bakuchiol.15
Topical combination therapies for hyperpigmentation, photodamage, and acne
Bakuchiol was a key ingredient incorporated into a 0.5% retinol treatment evaluated in a 12-week, open-label, single-center clinical-usage trial of 44 women with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and photodamaged facial skin who took a dual product regimen. This 2016 study showed that the retinol and vitamin C facial regimen yielded a statistically significant amelioration in clinical grading of all parameters.16
A 2015 randomized controlled clinical trial in 111 subjects evaluated the use of adapalene 0.1% gel and a formulation containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract, and mannitol in patients with acne. Patients were randomized to the adapalene and botanical formulation or adapalene and vehicle cream for 2 months. Both treatment groups experienced improvements according to all measured outcomes. The botanical formulation was associated with a statistically significant edge over the vehicle combination in reducing inflammatory lesions, investigator global assessment, and intensity of seborrhea. Quality of life was also perceived to be better with the combination of adapalene and the bakuchiol-containing product, which was deemed to be safe with good local tolerability.17
A subsequent evaluation by a different team also considered the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of this combination product via in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. The work by Trompezinski et al. revealed that bakuchiol displays nearly twice the antioxidative potential asthat of vitamin E. The bakuchiol-containing cream was shown in acne patients to successfully regulate sebum composition by raising linolenic and sapienic acid levels while lowering oleic acid levels. Its efficacy against Propionibacterium acnes was also suggested by a decrease in the number of skin surface porphyrins. The investigators concluded that the formulation serves as an effective adjuvant acne treatment by attacking inflammation, dysseborrhea, and proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes.18
Anticancer activity
In 2016, Kim et al. demonstrated that bakuchiol exhibits chemopreventive activity by hindering epidermal growth factor (EGF)–induced neoplastic cell transformation. In what was the first mechanistic study to reveal molecular targets for the anticancer activity of this substance, the investigators found that bakuchiol also reduced the viability and suppressed anchorage-independent growth of A431 human epithelial carcinoma cells. They identified Hck, Blk, and p38 MAPK as the molecular targets of what they identified as a potent anticancer compound.2
Skin-whitening potential
In 2010, Ohno et al. found that bakuchiol, along with other ingredients, isolated from Piper longum demonstrated strong suppressive activity against melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells and may have potential to affect melanin synthesis in human skin.19 Further, with use of a new method for screening tyrosinase, Cheng et al. found in 2017 that four substances used in traditional Chinese medicine (quercetin, kaempferol, bavachinin, and bakuchiol) displayed the potential for inhibiting tyrosinase.20
Conclusion
A compound that acts like a retinoid – yielding antiacne and antiaging effects – without provoking irritation? Most dermatologists and their patients would say, sign me up. Bakuchiol, an active ingredient in various plants, especially Psoralea corylifolia, seems to present that kind of profile. While more research is necessary, experience with this herbal ingredient in traditional medicine and an increasing body of research, including clinical results, provides reasons for optimism that this ingredient may have a versatile role to play in topical skin care, particularly in its retinoid-like functions.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002) and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), as well as a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
References
1. Chaudhuri RK et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30.
2. Kim JE et al. Oncotarget. 2016 Mar 22;7(12):14616-27.
3. Kim YJ et al. Molecules. 2016 Aug 17. doi: 10.3390/molecules21081076.
4. Xin Z et al. Pharmacol Res. 2019 Mar;141:208-13.
5. Lev-Tov H. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):253-4.
6. Shrestha S et al. J Ayurveda Integr Med. 2018 Jul - Sep; 9(3):209-12.
7. Li CC et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016. doi: 10.1155/2016/8108643.
8. Hu C et al. Fitoterapia. 2015 Oct;106:129-34.
9. Yan DM et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2010 Apr 21;128(3):697-702.
10. Choi SY et al. J Med Food. 2010 Aug;13(4):1019-23.
11. Madrid A et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012 Dec 18;144(3):809-11.
12. Dhaliwal S et al. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):289-96.
13. Yu Q et al. Zhong Yao Cai. 2014 Apr;37(4):632-5.
14. Ma S et al. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2017 Apr;42(3):251-60.
15. Malinauskiene L et al. Contact Dermatitis. 2019 Jun;80(6):398-9.
16. Herndon JH Jr, et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Apr;15(4):476-82.
17. Poláková K et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Apr 10;8:187-91.
18. Trompezinski S et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016 Aug 31;9:233-9.
19. Ohno O et al. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2010;74(7):1504-6.
20. Cheng M et al. Electrophoresis. 2017 Feb;38(3-4):486-93.
Bakuchiol [(1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-1-yl]phenol, a prenylated phenolic monoterpene found in the seeds and leaves of various plants, particularly Psoralea corylifolia, has been used to treat a broad array of disorders, including skin conditions, in the traditional medical practices of China, Japan, and Korea, as well as Ayurvedic medicine in India.1-6 Specifically, the seeds of as well as cardiovascular diseases, nephritis, osteoporosis, and cancer.7-9
This primary active ingredient is reputed to exert antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiaging, and estrogen-like functions, and recent data suggest anticancer activity, including activity against skin cancer. Its antiaging properties manifest via preservation of cutaneous collagen.4 The plant itself has displayed a wide range of biological functions, such as antibacterial, anticancer, cytotoxic, cardiac, diaphoretic, diuretic, stimulant, aphrodisiac, and tonifying activities.8,9 A 2016 quantitative analysis of Psoralea corylifolia and seven of its standard constituents (psoralen, angelicin, neobavaisoflavone, psoralidin, isobavachalcone, bavachinin, and bakuchiol) using high-performance liquid chromatography revealed that bakuchiol is the strongest phytochemical ingredient in the plant, which the investigators found also confers neuroprotective and antineuroinflammatory benefits.3
Other species contain bakuchiol, and its biological activities have been harnessed in other folk medical traditions. The monoterpene is an important constituent found in Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, which is used for its anti-inflammatory properties in traditional Korean medicine.10 Further, bakuchiol and 3-hydroxy-bakuchiol have been identified as key components isolated from Psoralea glandulosa, which is a shrub used in Chilean folk medicine to treat cutaneous disorders engendered by bacteria and fungus.11 Topical applications of bakuchiol have been demonstrated to confer antiaging benefits.12 This column briefly identifies some of the various uses emerging for this compelling botanical agent.
Antiaging activities
In 2014, Yu et al. found that bakuchiol may impart antiaging benefits by supporting the cellular activity of the expression level of human skin fibroblasts (ESF-1), as well as production of collagen types I and III, while reducing the matrix metalloproteinase-1 mRNA expression.13
The same year, Chaudhuri et al. compared the skin care–related activities of retinol and bakuchiol, finding their gene expression profiles very similar. In addition, they observed that bakuchiol up-regulated collagen types I and IV in a DNA microarray study and stimulated type III collagen production in a model of mature fibroblasts. Further, the investigators formulated bakuchiol into a skin care product and tested it clinically, with twice daily applications over 12 weeks yielding significant amelioration in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and firmness, as well as overall diminished photodamage without provoking redness. They concluded that bakuchiol can act as an antiaging agent through regulation of gene expression comparable to retinol.1
Retinoids without reactions?
In 2017, Ma et al. set out to synthesize and test in psoriatic cytokine–treated cultures of keratinocytes and organotypic skin substitutes a new substance created by combining two skin-active compounds (bakuchiol and salicylic acid) into bakuchiol salicylate (bakusylan), with the intention of rendering a novel functional retinoid. The researchers reported that the gene expression profile showed elimination of various retinoid-like proinflammatory responses, without a loss of normalizing activity. They concluded that their work may result in a new class of functional retinoids.14
Early this year, Dhaliwal et al. reported on a randomized, double-blind, 12-week study of 44 patients who applied either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice daily or retinol 0.5% cream daily. Facial photographs were evaluated at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks, and a blinded dermatologist rated pigmentation and erythema. Side effects were also noted by subjects in tolerability assessment questionnaires. Both compounds significantly reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical variance found between the two. More facial skin scaling and stinging was experienced by the retinol group. The investigators concluded that bakuchiol exhibits photoaging activity comparable with retinol and appears to be an emerging alternative to retinol because it is better tolerated.12 Notably, there is one report to date of an allergic reaction to topical bakuchiol.15
Topical combination therapies for hyperpigmentation, photodamage, and acne
Bakuchiol was a key ingredient incorporated into a 0.5% retinol treatment evaluated in a 12-week, open-label, single-center clinical-usage trial of 44 women with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and photodamaged facial skin who took a dual product regimen. This 2016 study showed that the retinol and vitamin C facial regimen yielded a statistically significant amelioration in clinical grading of all parameters.16
A 2015 randomized controlled clinical trial in 111 subjects evaluated the use of adapalene 0.1% gel and a formulation containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract, and mannitol in patients with acne. Patients were randomized to the adapalene and botanical formulation or adapalene and vehicle cream for 2 months. Both treatment groups experienced improvements according to all measured outcomes. The botanical formulation was associated with a statistically significant edge over the vehicle combination in reducing inflammatory lesions, investigator global assessment, and intensity of seborrhea. Quality of life was also perceived to be better with the combination of adapalene and the bakuchiol-containing product, which was deemed to be safe with good local tolerability.17
A subsequent evaluation by a different team also considered the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of this combination product via in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. The work by Trompezinski et al. revealed that bakuchiol displays nearly twice the antioxidative potential asthat of vitamin E. The bakuchiol-containing cream was shown in acne patients to successfully regulate sebum composition by raising linolenic and sapienic acid levels while lowering oleic acid levels. Its efficacy against Propionibacterium acnes was also suggested by a decrease in the number of skin surface porphyrins. The investigators concluded that the formulation serves as an effective adjuvant acne treatment by attacking inflammation, dysseborrhea, and proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes.18
Anticancer activity
In 2016, Kim et al. demonstrated that bakuchiol exhibits chemopreventive activity by hindering epidermal growth factor (EGF)–induced neoplastic cell transformation. In what was the first mechanistic study to reveal molecular targets for the anticancer activity of this substance, the investigators found that bakuchiol also reduced the viability and suppressed anchorage-independent growth of A431 human epithelial carcinoma cells. They identified Hck, Blk, and p38 MAPK as the molecular targets of what they identified as a potent anticancer compound.2
Skin-whitening potential
In 2010, Ohno et al. found that bakuchiol, along with other ingredients, isolated from Piper longum demonstrated strong suppressive activity against melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells and may have potential to affect melanin synthesis in human skin.19 Further, with use of a new method for screening tyrosinase, Cheng et al. found in 2017 that four substances used in traditional Chinese medicine (quercetin, kaempferol, bavachinin, and bakuchiol) displayed the potential for inhibiting tyrosinase.20
Conclusion
A compound that acts like a retinoid – yielding antiacne and antiaging effects – without provoking irritation? Most dermatologists and their patients would say, sign me up. Bakuchiol, an active ingredient in various plants, especially Psoralea corylifolia, seems to present that kind of profile. While more research is necessary, experience with this herbal ingredient in traditional medicine and an increasing body of research, including clinical results, provides reasons for optimism that this ingredient may have a versatile role to play in topical skin care, particularly in its retinoid-like functions.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002) and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), as well as a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
References
1. Chaudhuri RK et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30.
2. Kim JE et al. Oncotarget. 2016 Mar 22;7(12):14616-27.
3. Kim YJ et al. Molecules. 2016 Aug 17. doi: 10.3390/molecules21081076.
4. Xin Z et al. Pharmacol Res. 2019 Mar;141:208-13.
5. Lev-Tov H. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):253-4.
6. Shrestha S et al. J Ayurveda Integr Med. 2018 Jul - Sep; 9(3):209-12.
7. Li CC et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016. doi: 10.1155/2016/8108643.
8. Hu C et al. Fitoterapia. 2015 Oct;106:129-34.
9. Yan DM et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2010 Apr 21;128(3):697-702.
10. Choi SY et al. J Med Food. 2010 Aug;13(4):1019-23.
11. Madrid A et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012 Dec 18;144(3):809-11.
12. Dhaliwal S et al. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):289-96.
13. Yu Q et al. Zhong Yao Cai. 2014 Apr;37(4):632-5.
14. Ma S et al. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2017 Apr;42(3):251-60.
15. Malinauskiene L et al. Contact Dermatitis. 2019 Jun;80(6):398-9.
16. Herndon JH Jr, et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Apr;15(4):476-82.
17. Poláková K et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Apr 10;8:187-91.
18. Trompezinski S et al. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016 Aug 31;9:233-9.
19. Ohno O et al. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2010;74(7):1504-6.
20. Cheng M et al. Electrophoresis. 2017 Feb;38(3-4):486-93.