Cosmeceutical Critique

Macadamia (Macadamia tetraphylla) is endemic to Australia and is now commercially cultivated worldwide.¹ It is closely related genetically to the other macadamia plants, including the other main one, M. integrifolia, cultivated for macadamia nuts. Known in Brazil as sapucaia or castanha-de-sapucaia, Lecythis pisonis (also referred to as “cream nut” or “monkey pot”) is a large, deciduous tropical tree and member of the Brazil nut family, Lecythidaceae.² Various parts of both of these plants have been associated with medicinal properties, including the potential for dermatologic activity. Notably, the leaves of L. pisonis have been used in traditional medicine to treat pruritus.²This column focuses on the studies suggesting the possible benefits of macadamia and sapucaia components for skin care.

Macadamia

Extraction to Harness Antioxidant Activity

In 2015, Dailey and Vuong developed an aqueous extraction process to recover the phenolic content and antioxidant functionality from the skin waste of M. tetraphylla using response surface methodology. As an environmentally suitable solvent that is also cheap and safe, water was chosen to maximize the extraction scenario. They identified the proper conditions (90° C, a time of 20 min, and a sample-to-solvent ratio of 5 g/100 mL) to obtain sufficient phenolic compounds, proanthocyanidins, and flavonoids to render robust antioxidant function.¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Early in 2023, Somwongin et al. investigated various green extraction methods for viability in harnessing the cosmetic/cosmeceutical ingredients of M. integrifolia pericarps. Extracts were assessed for total phenolic content as well as antioxidant and anti–skin aging functions. They found that among the green extraction methods (ultrasound, micellar, microwave, and pulsed electric field extraction with water used as a clean solvent), the ultrasound-assisted extraction method netted the greatest yield and total phenolic content. It was also associated with the most robust antioxidant and anti–skin aging activities. Indeed, the researchers reported that its antioxidant activities were comparable to ascorbic acid and Trolox and its anti–skin aging potency on a par with epigallocatechin-3-gallate and oleanolic acid. The ultrasound-assisted extract was also deemed safe as it did not provoke irritation. The authors concluded that this environmentally suitable extraction method for M. integrifolia is appropriate for obtaining effective macadamia extracts for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.³

Anti-Aging Activity

In 2017, Addy et al. set out to characterize skin surface lipid composition and differences in an age- and sex-controlled population as a foundation for developing a botanically derived skin surface lipid mimetic agent. They noted that fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene are the main constituents of skin surface lipids. The investigators obtained skin surface lipid samples from the foreheads of 59 healthy 22-year-old women, analyzed them, and used the raw components of M. integrifolia, Simmondsia chinensis, and Olea europaea to engineer a mimetic product. They reported that the esterification reactions of jojoba, macadamia, and tall oils, combined with squalene derived from O. europaea, yielded an appropriate skin surface lipid mimetic, which, when applied to delipidized skin, assisted in recovering barrier function, enhancing skin hydration, and improving elasticity as well as firmness in aged skin. The researchers concluded that this skin surface lipid mimetic could serve as an effective supplement to human skin surface lipids in aged skin and for conditions in which the stratum corneum is impaired.⁴

Two years later, Hanum et al. compared the effects of macadamia nut oil nanocream and conventional cream for treating cutaneous aging over a 4-week period. The macadamia nut oil nanocream, which contained macadamia nut oil 10%, tween 80, propylene glycol, cetyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, and distilled water, was compared with the conventional cream based on effects on moisture, evenness, pore size, melanin, and wrinkling. The macadamia nut oil was found to yield superior anti-aging activity along each parameter as compared with the conventional cream. The researchers concluded that the macadamia nut oil in nanocream can be an effective formulation for providing benefits in addressing cutaneous aging.⁵

mophepriwohosulekacabokaspitrevagiswevibedacuuowrirofrisiclarapreduwreculawiclashojoluvoswoshabraclophotrakihathoprajegepikonimowrashodrostegewrimeslucrebonecadepradoshakeclistastathuprostes

[embed:render:related:node:268276]

Antifungal Activity

In 2015, Vieira et al. characterized 12 fractions enriched in peptides derived from L. pisonis seeds to determine inhibitory activity against Candida albicans. The fraction that exerted the strongest activity at 10 μg/mL, suppressing C. albicans growth by 38.5% and inducing a 69.3% loss of viability, was identified as similar to plant defensins and thus dubbed “L. pisonis defensin 1 (Lp-Def1).” The investigators concluded that Lp-Def1 acts on C. albicans by slightly elevating the induction of reactive oxygen species and causing a significant reduction in mitochondrial activity. They suggested that their findings support the use of plant defensins, particularly Lp-Def1, in the formulation of antifungal products, especially to address C. albicans.¹⁰

Pruritus

In 2012, Silva et al. studied the antipruritic impact of L. pisonis leaf extracts in mice and rats. Pretreatment with the various fractions of L. pisonis as well as constituent mixed triterpenes (ursolic and oleanolic acids) significantly blocked scratching behavior provoked by compound 48/80. The degranulation of rat peritoneal mast cells caused by compound 48/80 was also substantially decreased from pretreatment with the ethanol extract of L. pisonis, ether-L. pisonis fraction, and mixed triterpenes. The L. pisonis ether fraction suppressed edema induced by carrageenan administration and the ethanol extract displayed no toxicity up to an oral dose of 2g/kg. The investigators concluded that their results strongly support the antipruritic effects of L. pisonis leaves as well as the traditional use of the plant to treat pruritus.²

Stability for Cosmetic Creams

In 2020, Rampazzo et al. assessed the stability and cytotoxicity of a cosmetic cream containing sapucaia nut oil. All three tested concentrations (1%, 5%, and 10%) of the cream were found to be stable, with an effective preservative system, and deemed safe for use on human skin. To maintain a pH appropriate for a body cream, the formulation requires a stabilizing agent. The cream with 5% nut oil was identified as the most stable and satisfying for use on the skin.⁷

More recently, Hertel Pereira et al. investigated the benefits of using L. pisonis pericarp extract, known to exhibit abundant antioxidants, in an all-natural skin cream. They found that formulation instability increased proportionally with the concentration of the extract, but the use of the outer pericarp of L. pisonis was well suited for the cream formulation, with physical-chemical and organoleptic qualities unchanged after the stability test.¹¹

Conclusion

The available literature on the medical applications of macadamia and sapucaia plants is sparse. Some recent findings are promising regarding possible uses in skin health. However, much more research is necessary before considering macadamia and sapucaia as viable sources of botanical agents capable of delivering significant cutaneous benefits.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Dailey A and Vuong QV. Antioxidants (Basel). 2015 Nov 12;4(4):699-718.

2. Silva LL et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012 Jan 6;139(1):90-97.

3. Somwongin S et al. Ultrason Sonochem. 2023 Jan;92:106266.

4. Addy J et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Jan/Feb;68(1):59-67.

5. Hanum TI et al. Open Access Maced J Med Sci. 2019 Nov 14;7(22):3917-3920.

6. Akhtar N and Yazan Y. Pak J Pharm Sci. 2008 Jan;21(1):45-50.

7. Rampazzo APS et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Sep/Oct;71(5):239-250.

8. Rosa TLM et al. Food Res Int. 2020 Nov;137:109383.

9. Demoliner F et al. Food Res Int. 2018 Oct;112:434-442.

10. Vieira ME et al. Acta Biochim Biophys Sin (Shanghai). 2015 Sep;47(9):716-729.

11. Hertel Pereira AC et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Mar-Apr;72(2):155-162.

Macadamia (Macadamia tetraphylla) is endemic to Australia and is now commercially cultivated worldwide.¹ It is closely related genetically to the other macadamia plants, including the other main one, M. integrifolia, cultivated for macadamia nuts. Known in Brazil as sapucaia or castanha-de-sapucaia, Lecythis pisonis (also referred to as “cream nut” or “monkey pot”) is a large, deciduous tropical tree and member of the Brazil nut family, Lecythidaceae.² Various parts of both of these plants have been associated with medicinal properties, including the potential for dermatologic activity. Notably, the leaves of L. pisonis have been used in traditional medicine to treat pruritus.²This column focuses on the studies suggesting the possible benefits of macadamia and sapucaia components for skin care.

Macadamia

Extraction to Harness Antioxidant Activity

In 2015, Dailey and Vuong developed an aqueous extraction process to recover the phenolic content and antioxidant functionality from the skin waste of M. tetraphylla using response surface methodology. As an environmentally suitable solvent that is also cheap and safe, water was chosen to maximize the extraction scenario. They identified the proper conditions (90° C, a time of 20 min, and a sample-to-solvent ratio of 5 g/100 mL) to obtain sufficient phenolic compounds, proanthocyanidins, and flavonoids to render robust antioxidant function.¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Early in 2023, Somwongin et al. investigated various green extraction methods for viability in harnessing the cosmetic/cosmeceutical ingredients of M. integrifolia pericarps. Extracts were assessed for total phenolic content as well as antioxidant and anti–skin aging functions. They found that among the green extraction methods (ultrasound, micellar, microwave, and pulsed electric field extraction with water used as a clean solvent), the ultrasound-assisted extraction method netted the greatest yield and total phenolic content. It was also associated with the most robust antioxidant and anti–skin aging activities. Indeed, the researchers reported that its antioxidant activities were comparable to ascorbic acid and Trolox and its anti–skin aging potency on a par with epigallocatechin-3-gallate and oleanolic acid. The ultrasound-assisted extract was also deemed safe as it did not provoke irritation. The authors concluded that this environmentally suitable extraction method for M. integrifolia is appropriate for obtaining effective macadamia extracts for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.³

Anti-Aging Activity

In 2017, Addy et al. set out to characterize skin surface lipid composition and differences in an age- and sex-controlled population as a foundation for developing a botanically derived skin surface lipid mimetic agent. They noted that fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene are the main constituents of skin surface lipids. The investigators obtained skin surface lipid samples from the foreheads of 59 healthy 22-year-old women, analyzed them, and used the raw components of M. integrifolia, Simmondsia chinensis, and Olea europaea to engineer a mimetic product. They reported that the esterification reactions of jojoba, macadamia, and tall oils, combined with squalene derived from O. europaea, yielded an appropriate skin surface lipid mimetic, which, when applied to delipidized skin, assisted in recovering barrier function, enhancing skin hydration, and improving elasticity as well as firmness in aged skin. The researchers concluded that this skin surface lipid mimetic could serve as an effective supplement to human skin surface lipids in aged skin and for conditions in which the stratum corneum is impaired.⁴

Two years later, Hanum et al. compared the effects of macadamia nut oil nanocream and conventional cream for treating cutaneous aging over a 4-week period. The macadamia nut oil nanocream, which contained macadamia nut oil 10%, tween 80, propylene glycol, cetyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, and distilled water, was compared with the conventional cream based on effects on moisture, evenness, pore size, melanin, and wrinkling. The macadamia nut oil was found to yield superior anti-aging activity along each parameter as compared with the conventional cream. The researchers concluded that the macadamia nut oil in nanocream can be an effective formulation for providing benefits in addressing cutaneous aging.⁵

mophepriwohosulekacabokaspitrevagiswevibedacuuowrirofrisiclarapreduwreculawiclashojoluvoswoshabraclophotrakihathoprajegepikonimowrashodrostegewrimeslucrebonecadepradoshakeclistastathuprostes

[embed:render:related:node:268276]

Antifungal Activity

In 2015, Vieira et al. characterized 12 fractions enriched in peptides derived from L. pisonis seeds to determine inhibitory activity against Candida albicans. The fraction that exerted the strongest activity at 10 μg/mL, suppressing C. albicans growth by 38.5% and inducing a 69.3% loss of viability, was identified as similar to plant defensins and thus dubbed “L. pisonis defensin 1 (Lp-Def1).” The investigators concluded that Lp-Def1 acts on C. albicans by slightly elevating the induction of reactive oxygen species and causing a significant reduction in mitochondrial activity. They suggested that their findings support the use of plant defensins, particularly Lp-Def1, in the formulation of antifungal products, especially to address C. albicans.¹⁰

Pruritus

In 2012, Silva et al. studied the antipruritic impact of L. pisonis leaf extracts in mice and rats. Pretreatment with the various fractions of L. pisonis as well as constituent mixed triterpenes (ursolic and oleanolic acids) significantly blocked scratching behavior provoked by compound 48/80. The degranulation of rat peritoneal mast cells caused by compound 48/80 was also substantially decreased from pretreatment with the ethanol extract of L. pisonis, ether-L. pisonis fraction, and mixed triterpenes. The L. pisonis ether fraction suppressed edema induced by carrageenan administration and the ethanol extract displayed no toxicity up to an oral dose of 2g/kg. The investigators concluded that their results strongly support the antipruritic effects of L. pisonis leaves as well as the traditional use of the plant to treat pruritus.²

Stability for Cosmetic Creams

In 2020, Rampazzo et al. assessed the stability and cytotoxicity of a cosmetic cream containing sapucaia nut oil. All three tested concentrations (1%, 5%, and 10%) of the cream were found to be stable, with an effective preservative system, and deemed safe for use on human skin. To maintain a pH appropriate for a body cream, the formulation requires a stabilizing agent. The cream with 5% nut oil was identified as the most stable and satisfying for use on the skin.⁷

More recently, Hertel Pereira et al. investigated the benefits of using L. pisonis pericarp extract, known to exhibit abundant antioxidants, in an all-natural skin cream. They found that formulation instability increased proportionally with the concentration of the extract, but the use of the outer pericarp of L. pisonis was well suited for the cream formulation, with physical-chemical and organoleptic qualities unchanged after the stability test.¹¹

Conclusion

The available literature on the medical applications of macadamia and sapucaia plants is sparse. Some recent findings are promising regarding possible uses in skin health. However, much more research is necessary before considering macadamia and sapucaia as viable sources of botanical agents capable of delivering significant cutaneous benefits.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Dailey A and Vuong QV. Antioxidants (Basel). 2015 Nov 12;4(4):699-718.

2. Silva LL et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012 Jan 6;139(1):90-97.

3. Somwongin S et al. Ultrason Sonochem. 2023 Jan;92:106266.

4. Addy J et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Jan/Feb;68(1):59-67.

5. Hanum TI et al. Open Access Maced J Med Sci. 2019 Nov 14;7(22):3917-3920.

6. Akhtar N and Yazan Y. Pak J Pharm Sci. 2008 Jan;21(1):45-50.

7. Rampazzo APS et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Sep/Oct;71(5):239-250.

8. Rosa TLM et al. Food Res Int. 2020 Nov;137:109383.

9. Demoliner F et al. Food Res Int. 2018 Oct;112:434-442.

10. Vieira ME et al. Acta Biochim Biophys Sin (Shanghai). 2015 Sep;47(9):716-729.

11. Hertel Pereira AC et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Mar-Apr;72(2):155-162.

Macadamia (Macadamia tetraphylla) is endemic to Australia and is now commercially cultivated worldwide.¹ It is closely related genetically to the other macadamia plants, including the other main one, M. integrifolia, cultivated for macadamia nuts. Known in Brazil as sapucaia or castanha-de-sapucaia, Lecythis pisonis (also referred to as “cream nut” or “monkey pot”) is a large, deciduous tropical tree and member of the Brazil nut family, Lecythidaceae.² Various parts of both of these plants have been associated with medicinal properties, including the potential for dermatologic activity. Notably, the leaves of L. pisonis have been used in traditional medicine to treat pruritus.²This column focuses on the studies suggesting the possible benefits of macadamia and sapucaia components for skin care.

Macadamia

Extraction to Harness Antioxidant Activity

In 2015, Dailey and Vuong developed an aqueous extraction process to recover the phenolic content and antioxidant functionality from the skin waste of M. tetraphylla using response surface methodology. As an environmentally suitable solvent that is also cheap and safe, water was chosen to maximize the extraction scenario. They identified the proper conditions (90° C, a time of 20 min, and a sample-to-solvent ratio of 5 g/100 mL) to obtain sufficient phenolic compounds, proanthocyanidins, and flavonoids to render robust antioxidant function.¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Early in 2023, Somwongin et al. investigated various green extraction methods for viability in harnessing the cosmetic/cosmeceutical ingredients of M. integrifolia pericarps. Extracts were assessed for total phenolic content as well as antioxidant and anti–skin aging functions. They found that among the green extraction methods (ultrasound, micellar, microwave, and pulsed electric field extraction with water used as a clean solvent), the ultrasound-assisted extraction method netted the greatest yield and total phenolic content. It was also associated with the most robust antioxidant and anti–skin aging activities. Indeed, the researchers reported that its antioxidant activities were comparable to ascorbic acid and Trolox and its anti–skin aging potency on a par with epigallocatechin-3-gallate and oleanolic acid. The ultrasound-assisted extract was also deemed safe as it did not provoke irritation. The authors concluded that this environmentally suitable extraction method for M. integrifolia is appropriate for obtaining effective macadamia extracts for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.³

Anti-Aging Activity

In 2017, Addy et al. set out to characterize skin surface lipid composition and differences in an age- and sex-controlled population as a foundation for developing a botanically derived skin surface lipid mimetic agent. They noted that fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene are the main constituents of skin surface lipids. The investigators obtained skin surface lipid samples from the foreheads of 59 healthy 22-year-old women, analyzed them, and used the raw components of M. integrifolia, Simmondsia chinensis, and Olea europaea to engineer a mimetic product. They reported that the esterification reactions of jojoba, macadamia, and tall oils, combined with squalene derived from O. europaea, yielded an appropriate skin surface lipid mimetic, which, when applied to delipidized skin, assisted in recovering barrier function, enhancing skin hydration, and improving elasticity as well as firmness in aged skin. The researchers concluded that this skin surface lipid mimetic could serve as an effective supplement to human skin surface lipids in aged skin and for conditions in which the stratum corneum is impaired.⁴

Two years later, Hanum et al. compared the effects of macadamia nut oil nanocream and conventional cream for treating cutaneous aging over a 4-week period. The macadamia nut oil nanocream, which contained macadamia nut oil 10%, tween 80, propylene glycol, cetyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, and distilled water, was compared with the conventional cream based on effects on moisture, evenness, pore size, melanin, and wrinkling. The macadamia nut oil was found to yield superior anti-aging activity along each parameter as compared with the conventional cream. The researchers concluded that the macadamia nut oil in nanocream can be an effective formulation for providing benefits in addressing cutaneous aging.⁵

mophepriwohosulekacabokaspitrevagiswevibedacuuowrirofrisiclarapreduwreculawiclashojoluvoswoshabraclophotrakihathoprajegepikonimowrashodrostegewrimeslucrebonecadepradoshakeclistastathuprostes

[embed:render:related:node:268276]

Antifungal Activity

In 2015, Vieira et al. characterized 12 fractions enriched in peptides derived from L. pisonis seeds to determine inhibitory activity against Candida albicans. The fraction that exerted the strongest activity at 10 μg/mL, suppressing C. albicans growth by 38.5% and inducing a 69.3% loss of viability, was identified as similar to plant defensins and thus dubbed “L. pisonis defensin 1 (Lp-Def1).” The investigators concluded that Lp-Def1 acts on C. albicans by slightly elevating the induction of reactive oxygen species and causing a significant reduction in mitochondrial activity. They suggested that their findings support the use of plant defensins, particularly Lp-Def1, in the formulation of antifungal products, especially to address C. albicans.¹⁰

Pruritus

In 2012, Silva et al. studied the antipruritic impact of L. pisonis leaf extracts in mice and rats. Pretreatment with the various fractions of L. pisonis as well as constituent mixed triterpenes (ursolic and oleanolic acids) significantly blocked scratching behavior provoked by compound 48/80. The degranulation of rat peritoneal mast cells caused by compound 48/80 was also substantially decreased from pretreatment with the ethanol extract of L. pisonis, ether-L. pisonis fraction, and mixed triterpenes. The L. pisonis ether fraction suppressed edema induced by carrageenan administration and the ethanol extract displayed no toxicity up to an oral dose of 2g/kg. The investigators concluded that their results strongly support the antipruritic effects of L. pisonis leaves as well as the traditional use of the plant to treat pruritus.²

Stability for Cosmetic Creams

In 2020, Rampazzo et al. assessed the stability and cytotoxicity of a cosmetic cream containing sapucaia nut oil. All three tested concentrations (1%, 5%, and 10%) of the cream were found to be stable, with an effective preservative system, and deemed safe for use on human skin. To maintain a pH appropriate for a body cream, the formulation requires a stabilizing agent. The cream with 5% nut oil was identified as the most stable and satisfying for use on the skin.⁷

More recently, Hertel Pereira et al. investigated the benefits of using L. pisonis pericarp extract, known to exhibit abundant antioxidants, in an all-natural skin cream. They found that formulation instability increased proportionally with the concentration of the extract, but the use of the outer pericarp of L. pisonis was well suited for the cream formulation, with physical-chemical and organoleptic qualities unchanged after the stability test.¹¹

Conclusion

The available literature on the medical applications of macadamia and sapucaia plants is sparse. Some recent findings are promising regarding possible uses in skin health. However, much more research is necessary before considering macadamia and sapucaia as viable sources of botanical agents capable of delivering significant cutaneous benefits.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Dailey A and Vuong QV. Antioxidants (Basel). 2015 Nov 12;4(4):699-718.

2. Silva LL et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012 Jan 6;139(1):90-97.

3. Somwongin S et al. Ultrason Sonochem. 2023 Jan;92:106266.

4. Addy J et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Jan/Feb;68(1):59-67.

5. Hanum TI et al. Open Access Maced J Med Sci. 2019 Nov 14;7(22):3917-3920.

6. Akhtar N and Yazan Y. Pak J Pharm Sci. 2008 Jan;21(1):45-50.

7. Rampazzo APS et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Sep/Oct;71(5):239-250.

8. Rosa TLM et al. Food Res Int. 2020 Nov;137:109383.

9. Demoliner F et al. Food Res Int. 2018 Oct;112:434-442.

10. Vieira ME et al. Acta Biochim Biophys Sin (Shanghai). 2015 Sep;47(9):716-729.

11. Hertel Pereira AC et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Mar-Apr;72(2):155-162.

Rosemary_1497672569_web.jpg

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis) has been a common ingredient in cosmetic and cosmeceutical products for the last few decades. Used as a spice in various, particularly Mediterranean, cuisines and in traditional medicine for hundreds of years, this aromatic shrub has been the focus of substantial research this century to clarify its roles in skin care. It is used broadly in cosmetic formulations, particularly to preserve the product, and acts as a skin conditioner and fragrance in safe concentrations.¹ Rosemary essential oil is also a popular choice frequently used in aromatherapy.^2,3 This column focuses on recent promising results supporting the antioxidant and anti-photoaging activities, especially, of rosemary.

UV Protection and Rosemary in Combination

A 2021 study in mice authored by Auh and Madhavan showed that a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts yielded anti-photoaging effects, with the botanical formula suppressing UV-induced damage.⁴

Seven years earlier, Pérez-Sánchez et al. combined rosemary and citrus extracts and found that they exerted protective effects against UV damage in human HaCaT keratinocytes as well as human volunteers after oral consumption. Significant increases in minimal erythema dose (MED) were seen in participants, with daily intake of 250 mg of botanical combination, at 8 weeks (34%) and 12 weeks (56%). The investigators attributed the photoprotective effects of the formula to rosemary polyphenols and diterpenes as well as citrus flavonoids.⁵

Evaluation of a human skin cell model by Sánchez-Marzo et al. in 2020 revealed that rosemary diterpenes were instrumental in an herbal extract that combined citrus, olive, and rosemary in conferring genoprotection against UV-induced DNA damage. The authors note that human trials are needed to overcome the limitations of the cellular model in ascertaining whether the tested herbal formulations can yield oral and/or topical photoprotection.⁶

Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Pollution

In 2022, Ibrahim et al. assessed a hexane extract of rosemary leaves for anti-photoaging activity. Their evaluation showed an abundance of triterpenoids, monoterpenoids, and phenolic diterpenes in rosemary, with in vitro assays verifying the anti-aging, antioxidant, and wound healing functions of the extract. Further, topical rosemary hexane extract–loaded lipid nanocapsules protected rat skin from UV radiation, as epidermal and dermal histological parameters improved, antioxidant biochemical balance was restored, and inflammatory markers and wrinkling were diminished. The researchers concluded that the use of rosemary hexane extract represents a safe, efficient, and cost-effective way to deliver anti-aging, photoprotective functions to cosmeceutical formulations.⁷

In March 2021, Nobile et al. published a report on their randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled parallel group study to investigate the efficacy of a marketed polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement (Zeropollution, which contains four standardized herbal extracts: Olea europaea leaf, Lippia citriodora, S. rosmarinus, and Sophora japonica) in diminishing pollution-induced oxidative stress and in improving skin aging in 100 White and Asian women who were outdoor workers living in a polluted environment (Milan, Italy). Statistically significant improvements in reducing wrinkle depth and hyperpigmentation, enhancing elasticity and firmness, as well as promoting skin moisturization and diminishing transepidermal water loss were noted as early as 2 weeks after product consumption began, with inter-group and intra-group analysis verifying that all skin parameters were ameliorated in Asian and White subjects.⁸

[embed:render:related:node:267451]

Previously, Nobile et al. conducted a randomized, parallel-group study on 90 subjects to evaluate the photoprotective effects of a combination of rosemary and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) extracts (Nutroxsun). The investigators also performed a pilot, randomized crossover study on five participants. Both studies included only females with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I-III who manifested mild to moderate chronological aging or photoaging. Within as little as 2 weeks, treated individuals exhibited reductions in UVA- and UVB-induced skin changes. Skin elasticity improved in this group, with wrinkles diminishing along with skin redness and lipoperoxides. The investigators concluded that the oral blend of rosemary and grapefruit consumed long term merits consideration as an adjuvant approach to preventing the deleterious effects of solar exposure.⁹

In 2021, Hoskin et al. used ex vivo human biopsies exposed to diesel engine exhaust to study the impact of spray-dried algae-rosemary particles against pollution-induced damage. The spirulina-rosemary gel that was developed lowered levels of 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts (4HNE-PA) as well as matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and reduced the loss of filaggrin. The researchers concluded that their topically applied spirulina-rosemary gel was effective in mitigating or preventing skin aging and cutaneous damage caused by diesel air pollution.¹⁰

Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Anti-Inflammatory Activity

Based on a 2023 literature search by Li Pomi et al. of in vitro as well as in vivo animal and human studies involving S. rosmarinus and the skin, researchers reported on substantial evidence buttressing the antioxidant role of the botanical agent. They cautioned that, while data support the harnessing of the bioactive constituents of rosemary to address inflammatory and infectious skin conditions, large controlled trials remain necessary to establish its potential functions in dermatologic clinical practice.¹¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Ten years earlier, Park et al. determined that a phenolic diterpene from rosemary (carnosic acid) prevented UV-induced expression of MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes in a concentration-dependent manner by suppressing reactive oxygen species and blocking through the inhibition of ROS and the suppression of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)-mediated AP-1 activation.¹²

Around the same time, Sienkiewicz et al. showed that rosemary essential oil exhibits antibacterial activity against the standard strain Escherichia coli ATCC 25922 and 60 other clinical strains of the bacteria.¹³

Further, anti-inflammatory properties have been attributed to rosemary essential oil, which are thought to be due to its suppression of nuclear factor kappa B transcription and inhibition of the arachidonic acid cascade.¹⁴

Other Functions of Rosemary

In 2022, Sutkowska-Skolimowska et al. demonstrated that rosemary extract in concentrations of 50 and 100mcg/mL significantly diminished accumulated collagen in the fibroblasts of four patients with severe and fatal osteogenesis imperfecta, suggesting that the botanical agent may have a role targeting cellular stress and inducing autophagy in therapy for this condition.¹⁵

In 2015, Akbari et al. established that 0.5% and 1% concentrations of rosemary essential oil were effective in facilitating the percutaneous absorption of diclofenac sodium topical gel.¹⁶

Conclusion

In Western culture, rosemary is thought of more as a spice to add flavor to food. However, there appears to be an emerging body of evidence suggesting various possible functions for rosemary in the dermatologic armamentarium. Much more research is necessary, though, to ascertain the most appropriate and optimal roles for this popular herb in skin care.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami, Florida. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as a ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. González-Minero FJ et al. Cosmetics. 2020 Oct 3;7(4):77.

2. Sayorwan W et al. Sci Pharm. 2013 Apr-Jun;81(2):531-42.

3. Pazyar N et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-10.

4. Auh JH and Madhavan J Biomed Pharmacother. 2021 Mar;135:111178.

5. Pérez-Sánchez A et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Jul 5;136:12-8.

6. Sánchez-Marzo N et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Mar 20;9(3):255.

7. Ibrahim N et al. Sci Rep. 2022 Jul 30;12(1):13102.

8. Nobile V et al. Food Nutr Res. 2021 Mar 29:65.

9. Nobile V et al. Food Nutr Res. 2016 Jul 1;60:31871.

10. Hoskin R et al. Molecules. 2021 Jun 22;26(13):3781.

11. Li Pomi F et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 Mar 9;12(3):680.

12. Park M et al. Exp Dermatol. 2013 May;22(5):336-41.

13. Sienkiewicz M et al. Molecules. 2013 Aug 5;18(8):9334-51.

14. Borges RS et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2019 Jan 30;229:29-45.

15. Sutkowska-Skolimowska. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Sep 7;23(18):10341.

16. Akbari J et al. Pharm Biol. 2015;53(10):1442-7.

Rosemary_1497672569_web.jpg

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis) has been a common ingredient in cosmetic and cosmeceutical products for the last few decades. Used as a spice in various, particularly Mediterranean, cuisines and in traditional medicine for hundreds of years, this aromatic shrub has been the focus of substantial research this century to clarify its roles in skin care. It is used broadly in cosmetic formulations, particularly to preserve the product, and acts as a skin conditioner and fragrance in safe concentrations.¹ Rosemary essential oil is also a popular choice frequently used in aromatherapy.^2,3 This column focuses on recent promising results supporting the antioxidant and anti-photoaging activities, especially, of rosemary.

UV Protection and Rosemary in Combination

A 2021 study in mice authored by Auh and Madhavan showed that a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts yielded anti-photoaging effects, with the botanical formula suppressing UV-induced damage.⁴

Seven years earlier, Pérez-Sánchez et al. combined rosemary and citrus extracts and found that they exerted protective effects against UV damage in human HaCaT keratinocytes as well as human volunteers after oral consumption. Significant increases in minimal erythema dose (MED) were seen in participants, with daily intake of 250 mg of botanical combination, at 8 weeks (34%) and 12 weeks (56%). The investigators attributed the photoprotective effects of the formula to rosemary polyphenols and diterpenes as well as citrus flavonoids.⁵

Evaluation of a human skin cell model by Sánchez-Marzo et al. in 2020 revealed that rosemary diterpenes were instrumental in an herbal extract that combined citrus, olive, and rosemary in conferring genoprotection against UV-induced DNA damage. The authors note that human trials are needed to overcome the limitations of the cellular model in ascertaining whether the tested herbal formulations can yield oral and/or topical photoprotection.⁶

Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Pollution

In 2022, Ibrahim et al. assessed a hexane extract of rosemary leaves for anti-photoaging activity. Their evaluation showed an abundance of triterpenoids, monoterpenoids, and phenolic diterpenes in rosemary, with in vitro assays verifying the anti-aging, antioxidant, and wound healing functions of the extract. Further, topical rosemary hexane extract–loaded lipid nanocapsules protected rat skin from UV radiation, as epidermal and dermal histological parameters improved, antioxidant biochemical balance was restored, and inflammatory markers and wrinkling were diminished. The researchers concluded that the use of rosemary hexane extract represents a safe, efficient, and cost-effective way to deliver anti-aging, photoprotective functions to cosmeceutical formulations.⁷

In March 2021, Nobile et al. published a report on their randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled parallel group study to investigate the efficacy of a marketed polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement (Zeropollution, which contains four standardized herbal extracts: Olea europaea leaf, Lippia citriodora, S. rosmarinus, and Sophora japonica) in diminishing pollution-induced oxidative stress and in improving skin aging in 100 White and Asian women who were outdoor workers living in a polluted environment (Milan, Italy). Statistically significant improvements in reducing wrinkle depth and hyperpigmentation, enhancing elasticity and firmness, as well as promoting skin moisturization and diminishing transepidermal water loss were noted as early as 2 weeks after product consumption began, with inter-group and intra-group analysis verifying that all skin parameters were ameliorated in Asian and White subjects.⁸

[embed:render:related:node:267451]

Previously, Nobile et al. conducted a randomized, parallel-group study on 90 subjects to evaluate the photoprotective effects of a combination of rosemary and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) extracts (Nutroxsun). The investigators also performed a pilot, randomized crossover study on five participants. Both studies included only females with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I-III who manifested mild to moderate chronological aging or photoaging. Within as little as 2 weeks, treated individuals exhibited reductions in UVA- and UVB-induced skin changes. Skin elasticity improved in this group, with wrinkles diminishing along with skin redness and lipoperoxides. The investigators concluded that the oral blend of rosemary and grapefruit consumed long term merits consideration as an adjuvant approach to preventing the deleterious effects of solar exposure.⁹

In 2021, Hoskin et al. used ex vivo human biopsies exposed to diesel engine exhaust to study the impact of spray-dried algae-rosemary particles against pollution-induced damage. The spirulina-rosemary gel that was developed lowered levels of 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts (4HNE-PA) as well as matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and reduced the loss of filaggrin. The researchers concluded that their topically applied spirulina-rosemary gel was effective in mitigating or preventing skin aging and cutaneous damage caused by diesel air pollution.¹⁰

Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Anti-Inflammatory Activity

Based on a 2023 literature search by Li Pomi et al. of in vitro as well as in vivo animal and human studies involving S. rosmarinus and the skin, researchers reported on substantial evidence buttressing the antioxidant role of the botanical agent. They cautioned that, while data support the harnessing of the bioactive constituents of rosemary to address inflammatory and infectious skin conditions, large controlled trials remain necessary to establish its potential functions in dermatologic clinical practice.¹¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Ten years earlier, Park et al. determined that a phenolic diterpene from rosemary (carnosic acid) prevented UV-induced expression of MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes in a concentration-dependent manner by suppressing reactive oxygen species and blocking through the inhibition of ROS and the suppression of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)-mediated AP-1 activation.¹²

Around the same time, Sienkiewicz et al. showed that rosemary essential oil exhibits antibacterial activity against the standard strain Escherichia coli ATCC 25922 and 60 other clinical strains of the bacteria.¹³

Further, anti-inflammatory properties have been attributed to rosemary essential oil, which are thought to be due to its suppression of nuclear factor kappa B transcription and inhibition of the arachidonic acid cascade.¹⁴

Other Functions of Rosemary

In 2022, Sutkowska-Skolimowska et al. demonstrated that rosemary extract in concentrations of 50 and 100mcg/mL significantly diminished accumulated collagen in the fibroblasts of four patients with severe and fatal osteogenesis imperfecta, suggesting that the botanical agent may have a role targeting cellular stress and inducing autophagy in therapy for this condition.¹⁵

In 2015, Akbari et al. established that 0.5% and 1% concentrations of rosemary essential oil were effective in facilitating the percutaneous absorption of diclofenac sodium topical gel.¹⁶

Conclusion

In Western culture, rosemary is thought of more as a spice to add flavor to food. However, there appears to be an emerging body of evidence suggesting various possible functions for rosemary in the dermatologic armamentarium. Much more research is necessary, though, to ascertain the most appropriate and optimal roles for this popular herb in skin care.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami, Florida. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as a ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. González-Minero FJ et al. Cosmetics. 2020 Oct 3;7(4):77.

2. Sayorwan W et al. Sci Pharm. 2013 Apr-Jun;81(2):531-42.

3. Pazyar N et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-10.

4. Auh JH and Madhavan J Biomed Pharmacother. 2021 Mar;135:111178.

5. Pérez-Sánchez A et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Jul 5;136:12-8.

6. Sánchez-Marzo N et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Mar 20;9(3):255.

7. Ibrahim N et al. Sci Rep. 2022 Jul 30;12(1):13102.

8. Nobile V et al. Food Nutr Res. 2021 Mar 29:65.

9. Nobile V et al. Food Nutr Res. 2016 Jul 1;60:31871.

10. Hoskin R et al. Molecules. 2021 Jun 22;26(13):3781.

11. Li Pomi F et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 Mar 9;12(3):680.

12. Park M et al. Exp Dermatol. 2013 May;22(5):336-41.

13. Sienkiewicz M et al. Molecules. 2013 Aug 5;18(8):9334-51.

14. Borges RS et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2019 Jan 30;229:29-45.

15. Sutkowska-Skolimowska. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Sep 7;23(18):10341.

16. Akbari J et al. Pharm Biol. 2015;53(10):1442-7.

Rosemary_1497672569_web.jpg

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis) has been a common ingredient in cosmetic and cosmeceutical products for the last few decades. Used as a spice in various, particularly Mediterranean, cuisines and in traditional medicine for hundreds of years, this aromatic shrub has been the focus of substantial research this century to clarify its roles in skin care. It is used broadly in cosmetic formulations, particularly to preserve the product, and acts as a skin conditioner and fragrance in safe concentrations.¹ Rosemary essential oil is also a popular choice frequently used in aromatherapy.^2,3 This column focuses on recent promising results supporting the antioxidant and anti-photoaging activities, especially, of rosemary.

UV Protection and Rosemary in Combination

A 2021 study in mice authored by Auh and Madhavan showed that a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts yielded anti-photoaging effects, with the botanical formula suppressing UV-induced damage.⁴

Seven years earlier, Pérez-Sánchez et al. combined rosemary and citrus extracts and found that they exerted protective effects against UV damage in human HaCaT keratinocytes as well as human volunteers after oral consumption. Significant increases in minimal erythema dose (MED) were seen in participants, with daily intake of 250 mg of botanical combination, at 8 weeks (34%) and 12 weeks (56%). The investigators attributed the photoprotective effects of the formula to rosemary polyphenols and diterpenes as well as citrus flavonoids.⁵

Evaluation of a human skin cell model by Sánchez-Marzo et al. in 2020 revealed that rosemary diterpenes were instrumental in an herbal extract that combined citrus, olive, and rosemary in conferring genoprotection against UV-induced DNA damage. The authors note that human trials are needed to overcome the limitations of the cellular model in ascertaining whether the tested herbal formulations can yield oral and/or topical photoprotection.⁶

Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Pollution

In 2022, Ibrahim et al. assessed a hexane extract of rosemary leaves for anti-photoaging activity. Their evaluation showed an abundance of triterpenoids, monoterpenoids, and phenolic diterpenes in rosemary, with in vitro assays verifying the anti-aging, antioxidant, and wound healing functions of the extract. Further, topical rosemary hexane extract–loaded lipid nanocapsules protected rat skin from UV radiation, as epidermal and dermal histological parameters improved, antioxidant biochemical balance was restored, and inflammatory markers and wrinkling were diminished. The researchers concluded that the use of rosemary hexane extract represents a safe, efficient, and cost-effective way to deliver anti-aging, photoprotective functions to cosmeceutical formulations.⁷

In March 2021, Nobile et al. published a report on their randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled parallel group study to investigate the efficacy of a marketed polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement (Zeropollution, which contains four standardized herbal extracts: Olea europaea leaf, Lippia citriodora, S. rosmarinus, and Sophora japonica) in diminishing pollution-induced oxidative stress and in improving skin aging in 100 White and Asian women who were outdoor workers living in a polluted environment (Milan, Italy). Statistically significant improvements in reducing wrinkle depth and hyperpigmentation, enhancing elasticity and firmness, as well as promoting skin moisturization and diminishing transepidermal water loss were noted as early as 2 weeks after product consumption began, with inter-group and intra-group analysis verifying that all skin parameters were ameliorated in Asian and White subjects.⁸

[embed:render:related:node:267451]

Previously, Nobile et al. conducted a randomized, parallel-group study on 90 subjects to evaluate the photoprotective effects of a combination of rosemary and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) extracts (Nutroxsun). The investigators also performed a pilot, randomized crossover study on five participants. Both studies included only females with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I-III who manifested mild to moderate chronological aging or photoaging. Within as little as 2 weeks, treated individuals exhibited reductions in UVA- and UVB-induced skin changes. Skin elasticity improved in this group, with wrinkles diminishing along with skin redness and lipoperoxides. The investigators concluded that the oral blend of rosemary and grapefruit consumed long term merits consideration as an adjuvant approach to preventing the deleterious effects of solar exposure.⁹

In 2021, Hoskin et al. used ex vivo human biopsies exposed to diesel engine exhaust to study the impact of spray-dried algae-rosemary particles against pollution-induced damage. The spirulina-rosemary gel that was developed lowered levels of 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts (4HNE-PA) as well as matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and reduced the loss of filaggrin. The researchers concluded that their topically applied spirulina-rosemary gel was effective in mitigating or preventing skin aging and cutaneous damage caused by diesel air pollution.¹⁰

Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Anti-Inflammatory Activity

Based on a 2023 literature search by Li Pomi et al. of in vitro as well as in vivo animal and human studies involving S. rosmarinus and the skin, researchers reported on substantial evidence buttressing the antioxidant role of the botanical agent. They cautioned that, while data support the harnessing of the bioactive constituents of rosemary to address inflammatory and infectious skin conditions, large controlled trials remain necessary to establish its potential functions in dermatologic clinical practice.¹¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Ten years earlier, Park et al. determined that a phenolic diterpene from rosemary (carnosic acid) prevented UV-induced expression of MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes in a concentration-dependent manner by suppressing reactive oxygen species and blocking through the inhibition of ROS and the suppression of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)-mediated AP-1 activation.¹²

Around the same time, Sienkiewicz et al. showed that rosemary essential oil exhibits antibacterial activity against the standard strain Escherichia coli ATCC 25922 and 60 other clinical strains of the bacteria.¹³

Further, anti-inflammatory properties have been attributed to rosemary essential oil, which are thought to be due to its suppression of nuclear factor kappa B transcription and inhibition of the arachidonic acid cascade.¹⁴

Other Functions of Rosemary

In 2022, Sutkowska-Skolimowska et al. demonstrated that rosemary extract in concentrations of 50 and 100mcg/mL significantly diminished accumulated collagen in the fibroblasts of four patients with severe and fatal osteogenesis imperfecta, suggesting that the botanical agent may have a role targeting cellular stress and inducing autophagy in therapy for this condition.¹⁵

In 2015, Akbari et al. established that 0.5% and 1% concentrations of rosemary essential oil were effective in facilitating the percutaneous absorption of diclofenac sodium topical gel.¹⁶

Conclusion

In Western culture, rosemary is thought of more as a spice to add flavor to food. However, there appears to be an emerging body of evidence suggesting various possible functions for rosemary in the dermatologic armamentarium. Much more research is necessary, though, to ascertain the most appropriate and optimal roles for this popular herb in skin care.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami, Florida. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as a ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. González-Minero FJ et al. Cosmetics. 2020 Oct 3;7(4):77.

2. Sayorwan W et al. Sci Pharm. 2013 Apr-Jun;81(2):531-42.

3. Pazyar N et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-10.

4. Auh JH and Madhavan J Biomed Pharmacother. 2021 Mar;135:111178.

5. Pérez-Sánchez A et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Jul 5;136:12-8.

6. Sánchez-Marzo N et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Mar 20;9(3):255.

7. Ibrahim N et al. Sci Rep. 2022 Jul 30;12(1):13102.

8. Nobile V et al. Food Nutr Res. 2021 Mar 29:65.

9. Nobile V et al. Food Nutr Res. 2016 Jul 1;60:31871.

10. Hoskin R et al. Molecules. 2021 Jun 22;26(13):3781.

11. Li Pomi F et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 Mar 9;12(3):680.

12. Park M et al. Exp Dermatol. 2013 May;22(5):336-41.

13. Sienkiewicz M et al. Molecules. 2013 Aug 5;18(8):9334-51.

14. Borges RS et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2019 Jan 30;229:29-45.

15. Sutkowska-Skolimowska. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Sep 7;23(18):10341.

16. Akbari J et al. Pharm Biol. 2015;53(10):1442-7.

A member of the Lamiaceae family, Salvia rosmarinus (rosemary),* an aromatic plant native to the Mediterranean region and now cultivated globally, has been used for centuries in cuisine and medicine, with several well-established biological activities.^1-3 Thought to contribute to preventing hair loss, rosemary oil was also used for hundreds of years in hair rinses in the Mediterranean area.⁴ In traditional Iranian medicine, rosemary essential oil has been topically applied as an analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-acne remedy.⁵ Rosemary is known to absorb UV light well and to impart antibacterial and antifungal activity, as well as help maintain skin homeostasis.³ It is also used and under further study for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-infective, and anticancer activity.^2,6-9 The health benefits of rosemary are typically ascribed to its constituent carnosol/carnosic and ursolic acids.⁷In part 1 of this update on rosemary, the focus will be on chemical constituents, wound healing, anticancer activity, and hair care potential.

Chemical Constituents

The key chemical components of S. rosmarinus include bitter principle, resin, tannic acid, flavonoids, and volatile oils (made up of borneol, bornyl acetate, camphene, cineol, pinene, and camphor).¹⁰ Other important constituents of rosemary oil, in particular, include p-Cymene, linalool, gamma-terpinene, thymol, beta-pinene, alpha-pinene, eucalyptol, and carnosic acid.⁹ Volatile oils of rosemary have been used in various oils and lotions to treat wounds and with the intention of stimulating hair growth.¹⁰

Wound Healing

In a 2022 study in 60 adult male rats, Bulhões and colleagues found that the use of rosemary leaf essential oil-based ointments on skin lesions spurred wound healing, decreased inflammation, and enhanced angiogenesis as well as collagen fiber density.¹¹

Three years earlier, Labib and colleagues studied the wound healing capacity of three chitosan-based topical formulations containing either tea tree essential oil, rosemary essential oil, or a mixture of both oils in an excision wound model in rats.

Rosemary_Oil_1316967048_web.jpg

The combination preparation was found to be the most effective in fostering various stages of wound healing, with significant increases in wound contraction percentage observed in the combination group compared with either group treated using individual essential oils or the untreated animals.¹²

A 2010 in vivo study by Abu-Al-Basal using BALB/c mice with diabetes revealed that the topical application of rosemary essential oil for three days reduced inflammation, enhanced wound contraction and re-epithelialization, and promoted angiogenesis, granulation tissue regeneration, and collagen deposition.¹³

Anticancer Activity

Using a 7,12-dimethlybenz(a)anthracene (DMBA)-initiated and croton oil-promoted model in 2006, Sancheti and Goyal determined that rosemary extract administered orally at a dose rate of 500 mg/kg body weight/mouse significantly inhibited two-stage skin tumorigenesis in mice.¹⁴ Nearly a decade later, Cattaneo and colleagues determined that a rosemary hydroalcoholic extract displayed antiproliferative effects on the human melanoma A375 cell line.⁸

The polyphenols carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid are most often cited as the sources of the reputed anticancer effects of rosemary.¹⁵

Hair Health

Early in 2023, Begum and colleagues developed a 1% hair lotion including a methanolic extract of the aerial part of S. rosmarinus that they assessed for potential hair growth activity in C57BL/6 mice. Using water as a control and 2% minoxidil hair lotion as standard, the investigators determined that their rosemary hair lotion demonstrated significant hair growth promotion, exceeding that seen in the mice treated with the drug standard.¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

In a randomized controlled study in C57BL/6NCrSlc mice a decade earlier, Murata and colleagues evaluated the anti-androgenic activity and hair growth potential imparted by topical rosemary oil compared with finasteride and minoxidil. Rosemary oil leaf extract, with 12-O-methylcarnosic acid as its most active component, robustly suppressed 5alpha-reductase and stimulated hair growth in vivo in both the androgenetic alopecia/testosterone-treated mouse model, as well as the hair growth activating mouse model as compared with minoxidil. Further, the inhibitory activity of rosemary was 82.4% and 94.6% at 200 mcg/mL and 500 mcg/mL, respectively, whereas finasteride demonstrated 81.9% at 250 nM.¹⁶

A human study two years later was even more encouraging. Panahi and colleagues conducted a randomized comparative trial with 100 patients to investigate the effects of rosemary oil as opposed to minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia over 6 months. By 6 months, significantly greater hair counts were observed in both groups compared with baseline and 3-month readings, but no significant variations between groups. No differences were found in the frequency of dryness, greasiness, or dandruff at any time point or between groups. Scalp itching was significantly greater at the 3- and 6-month points in both groups, particularly in the minoxidil group at both of those time points. The investigators concluded that rosemary oil compared well with minoxidil as androgenetic alopecia therapy.¹⁷

Conclusion

Rosemary has been used in traditional medicine for hundreds of years and it has been a common ingredient in cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations for more than 20 years. Recent findings suggest a broad array of applications in modern medicine, particularly dermatology. The next column will focus on the most recent studies pertaining to the antioxidant and anti-aging activity of this aromatic shrub.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as a ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Begum A et al. Adv Biomed Res. 2023 Mar 21;12:60.

2. de Oliveira JR et al. J Biomed Sci. 2019 Jan 9;26(1):5.

3. González-Minero FJ et al. Cosmetics. 2020 Oct 3;7(4):77.

4. Dinkins J et al. Int J Dermatol. 2023 Aug;62(8):980-5.

5. Akbari J et al. Pharm Biol. 2015;53(10):1442-7.

6. Allegra A et al. Nutrients. 2020 Jun 10;12(6):1739.

7. de Macedo LM et al. Plants (Basel). 2020 May 21;9(5):651.

8. Cattaneo L et al. PLoS One. 2015 Jul 15;10(7):e0132439.

9. Borges RS et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2019 Jan 30;229:29-45.

10. Begum A et al. Acta Sci Pol Technol Aliment. 2013 Jan-Mar;12(1):61-73.

11. Bulhões AAVC et al. Acta Cir Bras. 2022 Apr 8;37(1):e370104.

12. Labib RM et al. PLoS One. 2019 Sep 16;14(9):e0219561.

13. Abu-Al-Basal MA. J Ethnopharmacol. 2010 Sep 15;131(2):443-50.

14. Sancheti G and Goyal PK. Phytother Res. 2006 Nov;20(11):981-6.

15. Moore J et al. Nutrients. 2016 Nov 17;8(11):731.

16. Murata K et al. Phytother Res. 2013 Feb;27(2):212-7.

17. Panahi Y et al. Skinmed. 2015 Jan-Feb;13(1):15-21.

*Correction, 2/27: This column was updated with the more recent name for rosemary, Salvia rosmarinus.

A member of the Lamiaceae family, Salvia rosmarinus (rosemary),* an aromatic plant native to the Mediterranean region and now cultivated globally, has been used for centuries in cuisine and medicine, with several well-established biological activities.^1-3 Thought to contribute to preventing hair loss, rosemary oil was also used for hundreds of years in hair rinses in the Mediterranean area.⁴ In traditional Iranian medicine, rosemary essential oil has been topically applied as an analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-acne remedy.⁵ Rosemary is known to absorb UV light well and to impart antibacterial and antifungal activity, as well as help maintain skin homeostasis.³ It is also used and under further study for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-infective, and anticancer activity.^2,6-9 The health benefits of rosemary are typically ascribed to its constituent carnosol/carnosic and ursolic acids.⁷In part 1 of this update on rosemary, the focus will be on chemical constituents, wound healing, anticancer activity, and hair care potential.

Chemical Constituents

The key chemical components of S. rosmarinus include bitter principle, resin, tannic acid, flavonoids, and volatile oils (made up of borneol, bornyl acetate, camphene, cineol, pinene, and camphor).¹⁰ Other important constituents of rosemary oil, in particular, include p-Cymene, linalool, gamma-terpinene, thymol, beta-pinene, alpha-pinene, eucalyptol, and carnosic acid.⁹ Volatile oils of rosemary have been used in various oils and lotions to treat wounds and with the intention of stimulating hair growth.¹⁰

Wound Healing

In a 2022 study in 60 adult male rats, Bulhões and colleagues found that the use of rosemary leaf essential oil-based ointments on skin lesions spurred wound healing, decreased inflammation, and enhanced angiogenesis as well as collagen fiber density.¹¹

Three years earlier, Labib and colleagues studied the wound healing capacity of three chitosan-based topical formulations containing either tea tree essential oil, rosemary essential oil, or a mixture of both oils in an excision wound model in rats.

Rosemary_Oil_1316967048_web.jpg

The combination preparation was found to be the most effective in fostering various stages of wound healing, with significant increases in wound contraction percentage observed in the combination group compared with either group treated using individual essential oils or the untreated animals.¹²

A 2010 in vivo study by Abu-Al-Basal using BALB/c mice with diabetes revealed that the topical application of rosemary essential oil for three days reduced inflammation, enhanced wound contraction and re-epithelialization, and promoted angiogenesis, granulation tissue regeneration, and collagen deposition.¹³

Anticancer Activity

Using a 7,12-dimethlybenz(a)anthracene (DMBA)-initiated and croton oil-promoted model in 2006, Sancheti and Goyal determined that rosemary extract administered orally at a dose rate of 500 mg/kg body weight/mouse significantly inhibited two-stage skin tumorigenesis in mice.¹⁴ Nearly a decade later, Cattaneo and colleagues determined that a rosemary hydroalcoholic extract displayed antiproliferative effects on the human melanoma A375 cell line.⁸

The polyphenols carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid are most often cited as the sources of the reputed anticancer effects of rosemary.¹⁵

Hair Health

Early in 2023, Begum and colleagues developed a 1% hair lotion including a methanolic extract of the aerial part of S. rosmarinus that they assessed for potential hair growth activity in C57BL/6 mice. Using water as a control and 2% minoxidil hair lotion as standard, the investigators determined that their rosemary hair lotion demonstrated significant hair growth promotion, exceeding that seen in the mice treated with the drug standard.¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

In a randomized controlled study in C57BL/6NCrSlc mice a decade earlier, Murata and colleagues evaluated the anti-androgenic activity and hair growth potential imparted by topical rosemary oil compared with finasteride and minoxidil. Rosemary oil leaf extract, with 12-O-methylcarnosic acid as its most active component, robustly suppressed 5alpha-reductase and stimulated hair growth in vivo in both the androgenetic alopecia/testosterone-treated mouse model, as well as the hair growth activating mouse model as compared with minoxidil. Further, the inhibitory activity of rosemary was 82.4% and 94.6% at 200 mcg/mL and 500 mcg/mL, respectively, whereas finasteride demonstrated 81.9% at 250 nM.¹⁶

A human study two years later was even more encouraging. Panahi and colleagues conducted a randomized comparative trial with 100 patients to investigate the effects of rosemary oil as opposed to minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia over 6 months. By 6 months, significantly greater hair counts were observed in both groups compared with baseline and 3-month readings, but no significant variations between groups. No differences were found in the frequency of dryness, greasiness, or dandruff at any time point or between groups. Scalp itching was significantly greater at the 3- and 6-month points in both groups, particularly in the minoxidil group at both of those time points. The investigators concluded that rosemary oil compared well with minoxidil as androgenetic alopecia therapy.¹⁷

Conclusion

Rosemary has been used in traditional medicine for hundreds of years and it has been a common ingredient in cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations for more than 20 years. Recent findings suggest a broad array of applications in modern medicine, particularly dermatology. The next column will focus on the most recent studies pertaining to the antioxidant and anti-aging activity of this aromatic shrub.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as a ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Begum A et al. Adv Biomed Res. 2023 Mar 21;12:60.

2. de Oliveira JR et al. J Biomed Sci. 2019 Jan 9;26(1):5.

3. González-Minero FJ et al. Cosmetics. 2020 Oct 3;7(4):77.

4. Dinkins J et al. Int J Dermatol. 2023 Aug;62(8):980-5.

5. Akbari J et al. Pharm Biol. 2015;53(10):1442-7.

6. Allegra A et al. Nutrients. 2020 Jun 10;12(6):1739.

7. de Macedo LM et al. Plants (Basel). 2020 May 21;9(5):651.

8. Cattaneo L et al. PLoS One. 2015 Jul 15;10(7):e0132439.

9. Borges RS et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2019 Jan 30;229:29-45.

10. Begum A et al. Acta Sci Pol Technol Aliment. 2013 Jan-Mar;12(1):61-73.

11. Bulhões AAVC et al. Acta Cir Bras. 2022 Apr 8;37(1):e370104.

12. Labib RM et al. PLoS One. 2019 Sep 16;14(9):e0219561.

13. Abu-Al-Basal MA. J Ethnopharmacol. 2010 Sep 15;131(2):443-50.

14. Sancheti G and Goyal PK. Phytother Res. 2006 Nov;20(11):981-6.

15. Moore J et al. Nutrients. 2016 Nov 17;8(11):731.

16. Murata K et al. Phytother Res. 2013 Feb;27(2):212-7.

17. Panahi Y et al. Skinmed. 2015 Jan-Feb;13(1):15-21.

*Correction, 2/27: This column was updated with the more recent name for rosemary, Salvia rosmarinus.

A member of the Lamiaceae family, Salvia rosmarinus (rosemary),* an aromatic plant native to the Mediterranean region and now cultivated globally, has been used for centuries in cuisine and medicine, with several well-established biological activities.^1-3 Thought to contribute to preventing hair loss, rosemary oil was also used for hundreds of years in hair rinses in the Mediterranean area.⁴ In traditional Iranian medicine, rosemary essential oil has been topically applied as an analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-acne remedy.⁵ Rosemary is known to absorb UV light well and to impart antibacterial and antifungal activity, as well as help maintain skin homeostasis.³ It is also used and under further study for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-infective, and anticancer activity.^2,6-9 The health benefits of rosemary are typically ascribed to its constituent carnosol/carnosic and ursolic acids.⁷In part 1 of this update on rosemary, the focus will be on chemical constituents, wound healing, anticancer activity, and hair care potential.

Chemical Constituents

The key chemical components of S. rosmarinus include bitter principle, resin, tannic acid, flavonoids, and volatile oils (made up of borneol, bornyl acetate, camphene, cineol, pinene, and camphor).¹⁰ Other important constituents of rosemary oil, in particular, include p-Cymene, linalool, gamma-terpinene, thymol, beta-pinene, alpha-pinene, eucalyptol, and carnosic acid.⁹ Volatile oils of rosemary have been used in various oils and lotions to treat wounds and with the intention of stimulating hair growth.¹⁰

Wound Healing

In a 2022 study in 60 adult male rats, Bulhões and colleagues found that the use of rosemary leaf essential oil-based ointments on skin lesions spurred wound healing, decreased inflammation, and enhanced angiogenesis as well as collagen fiber density.¹¹

Three years earlier, Labib and colleagues studied the wound healing capacity of three chitosan-based topical formulations containing either tea tree essential oil, rosemary essential oil, or a mixture of both oils in an excision wound model in rats.

Rosemary_Oil_1316967048_web.jpg

The combination preparation was found to be the most effective in fostering various stages of wound healing, with significant increases in wound contraction percentage observed in the combination group compared with either group treated using individual essential oils or the untreated animals.¹²

A 2010 in vivo study by Abu-Al-Basal using BALB/c mice with diabetes revealed that the topical application of rosemary essential oil for three days reduced inflammation, enhanced wound contraction and re-epithelialization, and promoted angiogenesis, granulation tissue regeneration, and collagen deposition.¹³

Anticancer Activity

Using a 7,12-dimethlybenz(a)anthracene (DMBA)-initiated and croton oil-promoted model in 2006, Sancheti and Goyal determined that rosemary extract administered orally at a dose rate of 500 mg/kg body weight/mouse significantly inhibited two-stage skin tumorigenesis in mice.¹⁴ Nearly a decade later, Cattaneo and colleagues determined that a rosemary hydroalcoholic extract displayed antiproliferative effects on the human melanoma A375 cell line.⁸

The polyphenols carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid are most often cited as the sources of the reputed anticancer effects of rosemary.¹⁵

Hair Health

Early in 2023, Begum and colleagues developed a 1% hair lotion including a methanolic extract of the aerial part of S. rosmarinus that they assessed for potential hair growth activity in C57BL/6 mice. Using water as a control and 2% minoxidil hair lotion as standard, the investigators determined that their rosemary hair lotion demonstrated significant hair growth promotion, exceeding that seen in the mice treated with the drug standard.¹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

In a randomized controlled study in C57BL/6NCrSlc mice a decade earlier, Murata and colleagues evaluated the anti-androgenic activity and hair growth potential imparted by topical rosemary oil compared with finasteride and minoxidil. Rosemary oil leaf extract, with 12-O-methylcarnosic acid as its most active component, robustly suppressed 5alpha-reductase and stimulated hair growth in vivo in both the androgenetic alopecia/testosterone-treated mouse model, as well as the hair growth activating mouse model as compared with minoxidil. Further, the inhibitory activity of rosemary was 82.4% and 94.6% at 200 mcg/mL and 500 mcg/mL, respectively, whereas finasteride demonstrated 81.9% at 250 nM.¹⁶

A human study two years later was even more encouraging. Panahi and colleagues conducted a randomized comparative trial with 100 patients to investigate the effects of rosemary oil as opposed to minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia over 6 months. By 6 months, significantly greater hair counts were observed in both groups compared with baseline and 3-month readings, but no significant variations between groups. No differences were found in the frequency of dryness, greasiness, or dandruff at any time point or between groups. Scalp itching was significantly greater at the 3- and 6-month points in both groups, particularly in the minoxidil group at both of those time points. The investigators concluded that rosemary oil compared well with minoxidil as androgenetic alopecia therapy.¹⁷

Conclusion

Rosemary has been used in traditional medicine for hundreds of years and it has been a common ingredient in cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations for more than 20 years. Recent findings suggest a broad array of applications in modern medicine, particularly dermatology. The next column will focus on the most recent studies pertaining to the antioxidant and anti-aging activity of this aromatic shrub.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as a ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Begum A et al. Adv Biomed Res. 2023 Mar 21;12:60.

2. de Oliveira JR et al. J Biomed Sci. 2019 Jan 9;26(1):5.

3. González-Minero FJ et al. Cosmetics. 2020 Oct 3;7(4):77.

4. Dinkins J et al. Int J Dermatol. 2023 Aug;62(8):980-5.

5. Akbari J et al. Pharm Biol. 2015;53(10):1442-7.

6. Allegra A et al. Nutrients. 2020 Jun 10;12(6):1739.

7. de Macedo LM et al. Plants (Basel). 2020 May 21;9(5):651.

8. Cattaneo L et al. PLoS One. 2015 Jul 15;10(7):e0132439.

9. Borges RS et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2019 Jan 30;229:29-45.

10. Begum A et al. Acta Sci Pol Technol Aliment. 2013 Jan-Mar;12(1):61-73.

11. Bulhões AAVC et al. Acta Cir Bras. 2022 Apr 8;37(1):e370104.

12. Labib RM et al. PLoS One. 2019 Sep 16;14(9):e0219561.

13. Abu-Al-Basal MA. J Ethnopharmacol. 2010 Sep 15;131(2):443-50.

14. Sancheti G and Goyal PK. Phytother Res. 2006 Nov;20(11):981-6.

15. Moore J et al. Nutrients. 2016 Nov 17;8(11):731.

16. Murata K et al. Phytother Res. 2013 Feb;27(2):212-7.

17. Panahi Y et al. Skinmed. 2015 Jan-Feb;13(1):15-21.

*Correction, 2/27: This column was updated with the more recent name for rosemary, Salvia rosmarinus.

Most subjects covered in this column are botanical ingredients used for multiple conditions in topical skin care. The focus this month, though, is a natural agent garnering attention primarily for one indication. Present in many mammals and in various cells in the human body (and particularly highly concentrated in human milk), cysteamine is a stable aminothiol that acts as an antioxidant as a result of the degradation of coenzyme A and is known to play a protective function.¹ Melasma, an acquired recurrent, chronic hyperpigmentary disorder, continues to be a treatment challenge and is often psychologically troublesome for those affected, approximately 90% of whom are women.² Individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types IV and V who reside in regions where UV exposure is likely are particularly prominent among those with melasma.² While triple combination therapy (also known as Kligman’s formula) continues to be the modern gold standard of care for melasma (over the last 30 years),³ cysteamine, a nonmelanocytotoxic molecule, is considered viable for long-term use and safer than the long-time skin-lightening gold standard over several decades, hydroquinone (HQ), which is associated with safety concerns.⁴This month’s column is a review of recent findings on the efficacy and safety of cysteamine for the treatment of melasma.

Melasma_on_face_web.jpg

Recent history and the 2015 study

Prior to 2015, the quick oxidation and malodorous nature of cysteamine rendered it unsuitable for use as a topical agent. However, stabilization efforts resulted in a product that first began to show efficacy that year.⁵

Mansouri et al. conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to assess the efficacy of topical cysteamine 5% to treat epidermal melasma in 2015. Over 4 months, 50 volunteers (25 in each group) applied either cysteamine cream or placebo on lesions once nightly. The mean differences at baseline between pigmented and normal skin were 75.2 ± 37 in the cysteamine group and 68.9 ± 31 in the placebo group. Statistically significant differences between the groups were identified at the 2- and 4-month points. At 2 months, the mean differences were 39.7 ± 16.6 in the cysteamine group and 63.8 ± 28.6 in the placebo group; at 4 months, the respective differences were 26.2 ± 16 and 60.7 ± 27.3. Melasma area severity index (MASI) scores were significantly lower in the cysteamine group compared with the placebo group at the end of the study, and investigator global assessment scores and patient questionnaire results revealed substantial comparative efficacy of cysteamine cream.⁶ Topical cysteamine has also demonstrated notable efficacy in treating senile lentigines, which typically do not respond to topical depigmenting products.⁵

Farshi et al. used Dermacatch as a novel measurement tool to ascertain the efficacy of cysteamine cream for treating epidermal melasma in a 2018 report of a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 40 patients. During the 4-month trial, cysteamine cream or placebo was applied nightly before sleep. Investigators measured treatment efficacy through Dermacatch, and Mexameter skin colorimetry, MASI scores, investigator global assessments, and patient questionnaires at baseline, 2 months, and 4 months. Through all measurement methods, cysteamine was found to reduce melanin content of melasma lesions, with Dermacatch performing reliably and comparably to Mexameter.⁷ Since then, cysteamine has been compared to several first-line melasma therapies.
 

Reviews

A 2019 systematic review by Austin et al. of randomized controlled trials (RCTs) on topical treatments for melasma identified 35 original RCTs evaluating a wide range of approximately 20 agents. They identified cysteamine, triple combination therapy, and tranexamic acid as the products netting the most robust recommendations. The researchers characterized cysteamine as conferring strong efficacy and reported anticancer activity while triple combination therapy poses the potential risk of ochronosis and tranexamic acid may present the risk for thrombosis. They concluded that more research is necessary, though, to establish the proper concentration and optimal formulation of cysteamine as a frontline therapy.⁸

More reviews have since been published to further clarify where cysteamine stands among the optimal treatments for melasma. In a May 2022 systematic PubMed review of topical agents used to treat melasma, González-Molina et al. identified 80 papers meeting inclusion criteria (double or single blinded, prospective, controlled or RCTs, reviews of literature, and meta-analysis studies), with tranexamic acid and cysteamine among the novel well-tolerated agents. Cysteamine was not associated with any severe adverse effects and is recommended as an adjuvant and maintenance therapy.³

A September 2022 review by Niazi et al. found that while the signaling mechanisms through which cysteamine suppresses melasma are not well understood, the topical application of cysteamine cream is seen as safe and effective alone or in combination with other products to treat melasma.²

A systematic review and meta-analysis reported by Gomes dos Santos-Neto et al. at the end of 2022 considered the efficacy of depigmenting formulations containing 5% cysteamine for treating melasma. The meta-analysis covered six studies, with 120 melasma patients treated. The conclusion was that 5% cysteamine was effective with adverse effects unlikely.⁹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Cysteamine vs. hydroquinone

In 2020, Lima et al. reported the results of a quasi-randomized, multicenter, evaluator-blinded comparative study of topical 0.56% cysteamine and 4% HQ in 40 women with facial melasma. (Note that this study originally claimed a 5% cysteamine concentration, but a letter to the editor of the International Journal of Dermatology in 2020 disputed this and proved it was 0.56%) For 120 days, volunteers applied either 0.56% cysteamine or 4% HQ nightly. Tinted sunscreen (SPF 50; PPD 19) use was required for all participants. There were no differences in colorimetric evaluations between the groups, both of which showed progressive depigmenting, or in photographic assessments. The HQ group demonstrated greater mean decreases in modified melasma area severity index (mMASI) scores (41% for HQ and 24% for cysteamine at 60 days; 53% for HQ and 38% for cysteamine at 120 days). The investigators observed that while cysteamine was safe, well tolerated, and effective, it was outperformed by HQ in terms of mMASI and melasma quality of life (MELASQoL) scores.¹⁰

Early the next year, results of a randomized, double-blind, single-center study in 20 women, conducted by Nguyen et al. comparing the efficacy of cysteamine cream with HQ for melasma treatment were published. Participants were given either treatment over 16 weeks. Ultimately, five volunteers in the cysteamine group and nine in the HQ group completed the study. There was no statistically significant difference in mMASI scores between the groups. In this notably small study, HQ was tolerated better. The researchers concluded that their findings supported the argument of comparable efficacy between cysteamine and HQ, with further studies needed to establish whether cysteamine would be an appropriate alternative to HQ.¹¹ Notably, HQ was banned by the Food and Drug Administration in 2020 in over-the-counter products.
 

Cysteamine vs. Kligman’s formula

Early in 2021, Karrabi et al. published the results of a randomized, double-blind clinical trial of 50 subjects with epidermal melasma to compare cysteamine 5% with Modified Kligman’s formula. Over 4 months, participants applied once daily either cysteamine cream 5% (15 minutes exposure) or the Modified Kligman’s formula (4% hydroquinone, 0.05% retinoic acid and 0.1% betamethasone) for whole night exposure. At 2 and 4 months, a statistically significant difference in mMASI score was noted, with the percentage decline in mMASI score nearly 9% higher in the cysteamine group. The investigators concluded that cysteamine 5% demonstrated greater efficacy than the Modified Kligman’s formula and was also better tolerated.¹²

Cysteamine vs. tranexamic acid

Later that year, Karrabi et al. published the results of a single-blind, randomized clinical trial assessing the efficacy of tranexamic acid mesotherapy compared with cysteamine 5% cream in 54 melasma patients. For 4 consecutive months, the cysteamine 5% cream group applied the cream on lesions 30 minutes before going to sleep. Every 4 weeks until 2 months, a physician performed tranexamic acid mesotherapy (0.05 mL; 4 mg/mL) on individuals in the tranexamic acid group. The researchers concluded, after measurements using both a Dermacatch device and the mMASI, that neither treatment was significantly better than the other but fewer complications were observed in the cysteamine group.¹³

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Safety

In 2022, Sepaskhah et al. assessed the effects of a cysteamine 5% cream and compared it with HQ 4%/ascorbic acid 3% cream for epidermal melasma in a single-blind, randomized controlled trial. Sixty-five of 80 patients completed the study. The difference in mMASI scores after 4 months was not significant between the groups nor was the improvement in quality of life, but the melanin index was significantly lower in the HQ/ascorbic acid group compared with the less substantial reduction for the cysteamine group. Nevertheless, the researchers concluded that cysteamine is a safe and suitable substitute for HQ/ascorbic acid.⁴

Conclusion

In the last decade, cysteamine has been established as a potent depigmenting agent. Its suitability and desirability as a top consideration for melasma treatment also appears to be compelling. More RCTs comparing cysteamine and other topline therapies are warranted, but current evidence shows that cysteamine is an effective and safe therapy for melasma.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Konar MC et al. J Trop Pediatr. 2020 Apr 1;66(2):129-35.

2. Niazi S et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Sep;21(9):3867-75.

3. González-Molina V et al. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022 May;15(5):19-28.

4. Sepaskhah M et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Jul;21(7):2871-8.

5. Desai S et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021 Dec 1;20(12):1276-9.

6. Mansouri P et al. Br J Dermatol. 2015 Jul;173(1):209-17.

7. Farshi S et al. J Dermatolog Treat. 2018 Mar;29(2):182-9.

8. Austin E et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019 Nov 1;18(11):S1545961619P1156X.

9. Gomes dos Santos-Neto A et al. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Dec;35(12):e15961.

10. Lima PB et al. Int J Dermatol. 2020 Dec;59(12):1531-6.

11. Nguyen J et al. Australas J Dermatol. 2021 Feb;62(1):e41-e46.

12. Karrabi M et al. Skin Res Technol. 2021 Jan;27(1):24-31.

13. Karrabi M et al. Arch Dermatol Res. 2021 Sep;313(7):539-47.

Most subjects covered in this column are botanical ingredients used for multiple conditions in topical skin care. The focus this month, though, is a natural agent garnering attention primarily for one indication. Present in many mammals and in various cells in the human body (and particularly highly concentrated in human milk), cysteamine is a stable aminothiol that acts as an antioxidant as a result of the degradation of coenzyme A and is known to play a protective function.¹ Melasma, an acquired recurrent, chronic hyperpigmentary disorder, continues to be a treatment challenge and is often psychologically troublesome for those affected, approximately 90% of whom are women.² Individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types IV and V who reside in regions where UV exposure is likely are particularly prominent among those with melasma.² While triple combination therapy (also known as Kligman’s formula) continues to be the modern gold standard of care for melasma (over the last 30 years),³ cysteamine, a nonmelanocytotoxic molecule, is considered viable for long-term use and safer than the long-time skin-lightening gold standard over several decades, hydroquinone (HQ), which is associated with safety concerns.⁴This month’s column is a review of recent findings on the efficacy and safety of cysteamine for the treatment of melasma.

Melasma_on_face_web.jpg

Recent history and the 2015 study

Prior to 2015, the quick oxidation and malodorous nature of cysteamine rendered it unsuitable for use as a topical agent. However, stabilization efforts resulted in a product that first began to show efficacy that year.⁵

Mansouri et al. conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to assess the efficacy of topical cysteamine 5% to treat epidermal melasma in 2015. Over 4 months, 50 volunteers (25 in each group) applied either cysteamine cream or placebo on lesions once nightly. The mean differences at baseline between pigmented and normal skin were 75.2 ± 37 in the cysteamine group and 68.9 ± 31 in the placebo group. Statistically significant differences between the groups were identified at the 2- and 4-month points. At 2 months, the mean differences were 39.7 ± 16.6 in the cysteamine group and 63.8 ± 28.6 in the placebo group; at 4 months, the respective differences were 26.2 ± 16 and 60.7 ± 27.3. Melasma area severity index (MASI) scores were significantly lower in the cysteamine group compared with the placebo group at the end of the study, and investigator global assessment scores and patient questionnaire results revealed substantial comparative efficacy of cysteamine cream.⁶ Topical cysteamine has also demonstrated notable efficacy in treating senile lentigines, which typically do not respond to topical depigmenting products.⁵

Farshi et al. used Dermacatch as a novel measurement tool to ascertain the efficacy of cysteamine cream for treating epidermal melasma in a 2018 report of a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 40 patients. During the 4-month trial, cysteamine cream or placebo was applied nightly before sleep. Investigators measured treatment efficacy through Dermacatch, and Mexameter skin colorimetry, MASI scores, investigator global assessments, and patient questionnaires at baseline, 2 months, and 4 months. Through all measurement methods, cysteamine was found to reduce melanin content of melasma lesions, with Dermacatch performing reliably and comparably to Mexameter.⁷ Since then, cysteamine has been compared to several first-line melasma therapies.
 

Reviews

A 2019 systematic review by Austin et al. of randomized controlled trials (RCTs) on topical treatments for melasma identified 35 original RCTs evaluating a wide range of approximately 20 agents. They identified cysteamine, triple combination therapy, and tranexamic acid as the products netting the most robust recommendations. The researchers characterized cysteamine as conferring strong efficacy and reported anticancer activity while triple combination therapy poses the potential risk of ochronosis and tranexamic acid may present the risk for thrombosis. They concluded that more research is necessary, though, to establish the proper concentration and optimal formulation of cysteamine as a frontline therapy.⁸

More reviews have since been published to further clarify where cysteamine stands among the optimal treatments for melasma. In a May 2022 systematic PubMed review of topical agents used to treat melasma, González-Molina et al. identified 80 papers meeting inclusion criteria (double or single blinded, prospective, controlled or RCTs, reviews of literature, and meta-analysis studies), with tranexamic acid and cysteamine among the novel well-tolerated agents. Cysteamine was not associated with any severe adverse effects and is recommended as an adjuvant and maintenance therapy.³

A September 2022 review by Niazi et al. found that while the signaling mechanisms through which cysteamine suppresses melasma are not well understood, the topical application of cysteamine cream is seen as safe and effective alone or in combination with other products to treat melasma.²

A systematic review and meta-analysis reported by Gomes dos Santos-Neto et al. at the end of 2022 considered the efficacy of depigmenting formulations containing 5% cysteamine for treating melasma. The meta-analysis covered six studies, with 120 melasma patients treated. The conclusion was that 5% cysteamine was effective with adverse effects unlikely.⁹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Cysteamine vs. hydroquinone

In 2020, Lima et al. reported the results of a quasi-randomized, multicenter, evaluator-blinded comparative study of topical 0.56% cysteamine and 4% HQ in 40 women with facial melasma. (Note that this study originally claimed a 5% cysteamine concentration, but a letter to the editor of the International Journal of Dermatology in 2020 disputed this and proved it was 0.56%) For 120 days, volunteers applied either 0.56% cysteamine or 4% HQ nightly. Tinted sunscreen (SPF 50; PPD 19) use was required for all participants. There were no differences in colorimetric evaluations between the groups, both of which showed progressive depigmenting, or in photographic assessments. The HQ group demonstrated greater mean decreases in modified melasma area severity index (mMASI) scores (41% for HQ and 24% for cysteamine at 60 days; 53% for HQ and 38% for cysteamine at 120 days). The investigators observed that while cysteamine was safe, well tolerated, and effective, it was outperformed by HQ in terms of mMASI and melasma quality of life (MELASQoL) scores.¹⁰

Early the next year, results of a randomized, double-blind, single-center study in 20 women, conducted by Nguyen et al. comparing the efficacy of cysteamine cream with HQ for melasma treatment were published. Participants were given either treatment over 16 weeks. Ultimately, five volunteers in the cysteamine group and nine in the HQ group completed the study. There was no statistically significant difference in mMASI scores between the groups. In this notably small study, HQ was tolerated better. The researchers concluded that their findings supported the argument of comparable efficacy between cysteamine and HQ, with further studies needed to establish whether cysteamine would be an appropriate alternative to HQ.¹¹ Notably, HQ was banned by the Food and Drug Administration in 2020 in over-the-counter products.
 

Cysteamine vs. Kligman’s formula

Early in 2021, Karrabi et al. published the results of a randomized, double-blind clinical trial of 50 subjects with epidermal melasma to compare cysteamine 5% with Modified Kligman’s formula. Over 4 months, participants applied once daily either cysteamine cream 5% (15 minutes exposure) or the Modified Kligman’s formula (4% hydroquinone, 0.05% retinoic acid and 0.1% betamethasone) for whole night exposure. At 2 and 4 months, a statistically significant difference in mMASI score was noted, with the percentage decline in mMASI score nearly 9% higher in the cysteamine group. The investigators concluded that cysteamine 5% demonstrated greater efficacy than the Modified Kligman’s formula and was also better tolerated.¹²

Cysteamine vs. tranexamic acid

Later that year, Karrabi et al. published the results of a single-blind, randomized clinical trial assessing the efficacy of tranexamic acid mesotherapy compared with cysteamine 5% cream in 54 melasma patients. For 4 consecutive months, the cysteamine 5% cream group applied the cream on lesions 30 minutes before going to sleep. Every 4 weeks until 2 months, a physician performed tranexamic acid mesotherapy (0.05 mL; 4 mg/mL) on individuals in the tranexamic acid group. The researchers concluded, after measurements using both a Dermacatch device and the mMASI, that neither treatment was significantly better than the other but fewer complications were observed in the cysteamine group.¹³

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Safety

In 2022, Sepaskhah et al. assessed the effects of a cysteamine 5% cream and compared it with HQ 4%/ascorbic acid 3% cream for epidermal melasma in a single-blind, randomized controlled trial. Sixty-five of 80 patients completed the study. The difference in mMASI scores after 4 months was not significant between the groups nor was the improvement in quality of life, but the melanin index was significantly lower in the HQ/ascorbic acid group compared with the less substantial reduction for the cysteamine group. Nevertheless, the researchers concluded that cysteamine is a safe and suitable substitute for HQ/ascorbic acid.⁴

Conclusion

In the last decade, cysteamine has been established as a potent depigmenting agent. Its suitability and desirability as a top consideration for melasma treatment also appears to be compelling. More RCTs comparing cysteamine and other topline therapies are warranted, but current evidence shows that cysteamine is an effective and safe therapy for melasma.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Konar MC et al. J Trop Pediatr. 2020 Apr 1;66(2):129-35.

2. Niazi S et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Sep;21(9):3867-75.

3. González-Molina V et al. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022 May;15(5):19-28.

4. Sepaskhah M et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Jul;21(7):2871-8.

5. Desai S et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021 Dec 1;20(12):1276-9.

6. Mansouri P et al. Br J Dermatol. 2015 Jul;173(1):209-17.

7. Farshi S et al. J Dermatolog Treat. 2018 Mar;29(2):182-9.

8. Austin E et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019 Nov 1;18(11):S1545961619P1156X.

9. Gomes dos Santos-Neto A et al. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Dec;35(12):e15961.

10. Lima PB et al. Int J Dermatol. 2020 Dec;59(12):1531-6.

11. Nguyen J et al. Australas J Dermatol. 2021 Feb;62(1):e41-e46.

12. Karrabi M et al. Skin Res Technol. 2021 Jan;27(1):24-31.

13. Karrabi M et al. Arch Dermatol Res. 2021 Sep;313(7):539-47.

Most subjects covered in this column are botanical ingredients used for multiple conditions in topical skin care. The focus this month, though, is a natural agent garnering attention primarily for one indication. Present in many mammals and in various cells in the human body (and particularly highly concentrated in human milk), cysteamine is a stable aminothiol that acts as an antioxidant as a result of the degradation of coenzyme A and is known to play a protective function.¹ Melasma, an acquired recurrent, chronic hyperpigmentary disorder, continues to be a treatment challenge and is often psychologically troublesome for those affected, approximately 90% of whom are women.² Individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types IV and V who reside in regions where UV exposure is likely are particularly prominent among those with melasma.² While triple combination therapy (also known as Kligman’s formula) continues to be the modern gold standard of care for melasma (over the last 30 years),³ cysteamine, a nonmelanocytotoxic molecule, is considered viable for long-term use and safer than the long-time skin-lightening gold standard over several decades, hydroquinone (HQ), which is associated with safety concerns.⁴This month’s column is a review of recent findings on the efficacy and safety of cysteamine for the treatment of melasma.

Melasma_on_face_web.jpg

Recent history and the 2015 study

Prior to 2015, the quick oxidation and malodorous nature of cysteamine rendered it unsuitable for use as a topical agent. However, stabilization efforts resulted in a product that first began to show efficacy that year.⁵

Mansouri et al. conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to assess the efficacy of topical cysteamine 5% to treat epidermal melasma in 2015. Over 4 months, 50 volunteers (25 in each group) applied either cysteamine cream or placebo on lesions once nightly. The mean differences at baseline between pigmented and normal skin were 75.2 ± 37 in the cysteamine group and 68.9 ± 31 in the placebo group. Statistically significant differences between the groups were identified at the 2- and 4-month points. At 2 months, the mean differences were 39.7 ± 16.6 in the cysteamine group and 63.8 ± 28.6 in the placebo group; at 4 months, the respective differences were 26.2 ± 16 and 60.7 ± 27.3. Melasma area severity index (MASI) scores were significantly lower in the cysteamine group compared with the placebo group at the end of the study, and investigator global assessment scores and patient questionnaire results revealed substantial comparative efficacy of cysteamine cream.⁶ Topical cysteamine has also demonstrated notable efficacy in treating senile lentigines, which typically do not respond to topical depigmenting products.⁵

Farshi et al. used Dermacatch as a novel measurement tool to ascertain the efficacy of cysteamine cream for treating epidermal melasma in a 2018 report of a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 40 patients. During the 4-month trial, cysteamine cream or placebo was applied nightly before sleep. Investigators measured treatment efficacy through Dermacatch, and Mexameter skin colorimetry, MASI scores, investigator global assessments, and patient questionnaires at baseline, 2 months, and 4 months. Through all measurement methods, cysteamine was found to reduce melanin content of melasma lesions, with Dermacatch performing reliably and comparably to Mexameter.⁷ Since then, cysteamine has been compared to several first-line melasma therapies.
 

Reviews

A 2019 systematic review by Austin et al. of randomized controlled trials (RCTs) on topical treatments for melasma identified 35 original RCTs evaluating a wide range of approximately 20 agents. They identified cysteamine, triple combination therapy, and tranexamic acid as the products netting the most robust recommendations. The researchers characterized cysteamine as conferring strong efficacy and reported anticancer activity while triple combination therapy poses the potential risk of ochronosis and tranexamic acid may present the risk for thrombosis. They concluded that more research is necessary, though, to establish the proper concentration and optimal formulation of cysteamine as a frontline therapy.⁸

More reviews have since been published to further clarify where cysteamine stands among the optimal treatments for melasma. In a May 2022 systematic PubMed review of topical agents used to treat melasma, González-Molina et al. identified 80 papers meeting inclusion criteria (double or single blinded, prospective, controlled or RCTs, reviews of literature, and meta-analysis studies), with tranexamic acid and cysteamine among the novel well-tolerated agents. Cysteamine was not associated with any severe adverse effects and is recommended as an adjuvant and maintenance therapy.³

A September 2022 review by Niazi et al. found that while the signaling mechanisms through which cysteamine suppresses melasma are not well understood, the topical application of cysteamine cream is seen as safe and effective alone or in combination with other products to treat melasma.²

A systematic review and meta-analysis reported by Gomes dos Santos-Neto et al. at the end of 2022 considered the efficacy of depigmenting formulations containing 5% cysteamine for treating melasma. The meta-analysis covered six studies, with 120 melasma patients treated. The conclusion was that 5% cysteamine was effective with adverse effects unlikely.⁹

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Cysteamine vs. hydroquinone

In 2020, Lima et al. reported the results of a quasi-randomized, multicenter, evaluator-blinded comparative study of topical 0.56% cysteamine and 4% HQ in 40 women with facial melasma. (Note that this study originally claimed a 5% cysteamine concentration, but a letter to the editor of the International Journal of Dermatology in 2020 disputed this and proved it was 0.56%) For 120 days, volunteers applied either 0.56% cysteamine or 4% HQ nightly. Tinted sunscreen (SPF 50; PPD 19) use was required for all participants. There were no differences in colorimetric evaluations between the groups, both of which showed progressive depigmenting, or in photographic assessments. The HQ group demonstrated greater mean decreases in modified melasma area severity index (mMASI) scores (41% for HQ and 24% for cysteamine at 60 days; 53% for HQ and 38% for cysteamine at 120 days). The investigators observed that while cysteamine was safe, well tolerated, and effective, it was outperformed by HQ in terms of mMASI and melasma quality of life (MELASQoL) scores.¹⁰

Early the next year, results of a randomized, double-blind, single-center study in 20 women, conducted by Nguyen et al. comparing the efficacy of cysteamine cream with HQ for melasma treatment were published. Participants were given either treatment over 16 weeks. Ultimately, five volunteers in the cysteamine group and nine in the HQ group completed the study. There was no statistically significant difference in mMASI scores between the groups. In this notably small study, HQ was tolerated better. The researchers concluded that their findings supported the argument of comparable efficacy between cysteamine and HQ, with further studies needed to establish whether cysteamine would be an appropriate alternative to HQ.¹¹ Notably, HQ was banned by the Food and Drug Administration in 2020 in over-the-counter products.
 

Cysteamine vs. Kligman’s formula

Early in 2021, Karrabi et al. published the results of a randomized, double-blind clinical trial of 50 subjects with epidermal melasma to compare cysteamine 5% with Modified Kligman’s formula. Over 4 months, participants applied once daily either cysteamine cream 5% (15 minutes exposure) or the Modified Kligman’s formula (4% hydroquinone, 0.05% retinoic acid and 0.1% betamethasone) for whole night exposure. At 2 and 4 months, a statistically significant difference in mMASI score was noted, with the percentage decline in mMASI score nearly 9% higher in the cysteamine group. The investigators concluded that cysteamine 5% demonstrated greater efficacy than the Modified Kligman’s formula and was also better tolerated.¹²

Cysteamine vs. tranexamic acid

Later that year, Karrabi et al. published the results of a single-blind, randomized clinical trial assessing the efficacy of tranexamic acid mesotherapy compared with cysteamine 5% cream in 54 melasma patients. For 4 consecutive months, the cysteamine 5% cream group applied the cream on lesions 30 minutes before going to sleep. Every 4 weeks until 2 months, a physician performed tranexamic acid mesotherapy (0.05 mL; 4 mg/mL) on individuals in the tranexamic acid group. The researchers concluded, after measurements using both a Dermacatch device and the mMASI, that neither treatment was significantly better than the other but fewer complications were observed in the cysteamine group.¹³

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Safety

In 2022, Sepaskhah et al. assessed the effects of a cysteamine 5% cream and compared it with HQ 4%/ascorbic acid 3% cream for epidermal melasma in a single-blind, randomized controlled trial. Sixty-five of 80 patients completed the study. The difference in mMASI scores after 4 months was not significant between the groups nor was the improvement in quality of life, but the melanin index was significantly lower in the HQ/ascorbic acid group compared with the less substantial reduction for the cysteamine group. Nevertheless, the researchers concluded that cysteamine is a safe and suitable substitute for HQ/ascorbic acid.⁴

Conclusion

In the last decade, cysteamine has been established as a potent depigmenting agent. Its suitability and desirability as a top consideration for melasma treatment also appears to be compelling. More RCTs comparing cysteamine and other topline therapies are warranted, but current evidence shows that cysteamine is an effective and safe therapy for melasma.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Konar MC et al. J Trop Pediatr. 2020 Apr 1;66(2):129-35.

2. Niazi S et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Sep;21(9):3867-75.

3. González-Molina V et al. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022 May;15(5):19-28.

4. Sepaskhah M et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Jul;21(7):2871-8.

5. Desai S et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021 Dec 1;20(12):1276-9.

6. Mansouri P et al. Br J Dermatol. 2015 Jul;173(1):209-17.

7. Farshi S et al. J Dermatolog Treat. 2018 Mar;29(2):182-9.

8. Austin E et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019 Nov 1;18(11):S1545961619P1156X.

9. Gomes dos Santos-Neto A et al. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Dec;35(12):e15961.

10. Lima PB et al. Int J Dermatol. 2020 Dec;59(12):1531-6.

11. Nguyen J et al. Australas J Dermatol. 2021 Feb;62(1):e41-e46.

12. Karrabi M et al. Skin Res Technol. 2021 Jan;27(1):24-31.

13. Karrabi M et al. Arch Dermatol Res. 2021 Sep;313(7):539-47.

Almonds and almond oil are known to exhibit anti-inflammatory, antihepatotoxicity, and immunity-boosting activity.¹ The seed from the deciduous almond tree (Oleum amygdalae), which is native to Iran and parts of the Levant, almonds contain copious amounts of phenols and polyphenols, fatty acids, and vitamin E, all of which are known to exert antioxidant activity.^2-5 These seeds have been found to have a substantial impact on serum lipids.⁴ Emollient and sclerosant characteristics have also been linked to almond oil, which has been found to ameliorate complexion and skin tone.⁵ Significantly, in vitro and in vivo studies have shown that UVB-induced photoaging can be attenuated through the use of almond oil and almond skin extract.² Further, in traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayurveda, and ancient Greco-Persian medicine, almond oil was used to treat cutaneous conditions, including eczema and psoriasis.¹The focus of this column is to provide an update on the use of almonds and almond oil for skincare since covering the topic in July 2014.

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Antiphotoaging activity

In 2019, Foolad and Vaughn conducted a prospective, investigator-blind, randomized controlled trial to determine the effects of almond consumption on facial sebum production and wrinkles. Participants (28 postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II completed the study) consumed 20% of their daily energy intake in almonds or a calorie-matched snack over 16 weeks through the UC Davis Dermatology Clinic. Photographic analysis revealed that the almond group experienced significantly diminished wrinkle severity, compared with the control group. The investigators concluded that daily almond consumption has the potential to decrease wrinkle severity in postmenopausal women and that almonds may confer natural antiaging effects.⁴

In a similar investigation 2 years later, Rybak et al. reported on a prospective, randomized controlled study to ascertain the effects of almond consumption on photoaging in postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I or II who obtained 20% of their daily energy consumption via almonds or a calorie-matched snack for 24 weeks. Results demonstrated significant effects conferred by almond consumption, with average wrinkle severity substantially diminished in the almond group at weeks 16 (by 15%) and 24 (by 16%), compared with baseline. In addition, facial pigment intensity was reduced by 20% in the almond group by week 16 and this was maintained through the end of the study. Further, sebum excretion was higher in the control group. The investigators concluded that the daily consumption of almonds may have the potential to enhance protection against photoaging, particularly in terms of facial wrinkles and pigment intensity, in postmenopausal women.³

Later in 2021, Li et al. conducted a study in 39 healthy Asian women (18-45 years old) with Fitzpatrick skin types II to IV to investigate the effects of almond consumption on UVB resistance. The researchers randomized participants to eat either 1.5 oz of almonds or 1.8 oz of pretzels daily for 12 weeks. Results showed that the minimal erythema dose was higher in the almond group as compared with the control group. No differences were observed in hydration, melanin, roughness, or sebum on facial skin. The authors concluded that daily oral almond intake may improve photoprotection by raising the minimal erythema dose.²

In a 2022 review on the cutaneous benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose, and jojoba oils, Blaak and Staib noted that all three have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years in traditional medicine to treat various conditions, including skin disorders. Further, they concluded that the longstanding uses of these oils has been borne out by contemporary data, which reveal cutaneous benefits for adult and young skin, particularly in bolstering stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio.⁶

Later that year, Sanju et al., reporting on the development and assessment of a broad-spectrum polyherbal sunscreen delivered through solid lipid nanoparticles, noted that almond oil was among the natural ingredients used because of its photoprotective characteristics. Overall, the sunscreen formulation, Safranal, was found to impart robust protection against UV radiation.⁷

Wound healing

In 2020, Borzou et al. conducted a single-blind randomized clinical trial to ascertain the impact of topical almond oil in preventing pressure injuries. Data collection occurred over 8 months in a hospital setting, with 108 patients randomly assigned to receive almond oil, placebo (liquid paraffin), or the control (standard of care). The researchers found that topically applied almond oil was linked to a lower incidence of pressure injuries, and they arose later in the study as compared with those injuries in the groups receiving paraffin or standard of care. Pressure injury incidence was 5.6% in the almond oil group, 13.9% in the placebo group, and 25.1% in the control group.⁸

That same year, Caglar et al. completed a randomized controlled trial in 90 preterm infants to assess the effects of sunflower seed oil and almond oil on the stratum corneum. Infants were randomly selected for treatment with either oil or control. A nurse researcher applied oils to the whole body except for the head and face four times daily for 5 days. Investigators determined that stratum corneum hydration was better in the oil groups as compared with control, with no difference found between sunflower seed and almond oils.⁹

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Eczema, hand dermatitis, and striae

In 2018, Simon et al. performed a randomized, double-blind study to determine the short- and long-term effects of two emollients on pruritus and skin restoration in xerotic eczema. The emollients contained lactic acid and refined almond oil, with one also including polidocanol. Both emollients were effective in reducing the severity of itching, with skin moisture and lipid content found to have risen after the initial administration and yielding steady improvement over 2 weeks.¹⁰

Earlier that year, Zeichner et al. found that the use of an OTC sweet almond oil, rich in fatty acids and a standard-bearing treatment for eczema and psoriasis for centuries, was effective in treating hand dermatitis. Specifically, the moisturizer, which contained 7% sweet almond oil and 2% colloidal oatmeal, was identified as safe and effective in resolving moderate to severe hand dermatitis.¹¹

Some studies have also shown almond oil to be effective against striae gravidarum. Hajhashemi et al. conducted a double-blind clinical trial in 160 nulliparous women to compare the effects of aloe vera gel and sweet almond oil on striae gravidarum in 2018. Volunteers were randomly assigned to one of three case groups (Aloe vera, sweet almond oil, or base cream) who received topical treatment on the abdomen, or the fourth group, which received no treatment. Results showed that both treatment creams were effective in decreasing erythema and the pruritus associated with striae as well as in preventing their expansion.¹² Previously, Tashan and Kafkasli showed in a nonrandomized study that massage with bitter almond oil may diminish the visibility of present striae gravidarum and prevent the emergence of new striae.¹³

Conclusion

Almonds and almond oil have been used as food and in traditional medical practices dating back several centuries. In the last decade, intriguing results have emerged regarding the effects of almond consumption or topical almond oil administration on skin health. While much more research is necessary, the recent data seem to support the traditional uses of this tree seed for dermatologic purposes.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology” (New York: McGraw Hill), was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Ahmad Z. Complement Ther Clin Pract. 2010 Feb;16(1):10-2.

2. Li JN et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Sep;20(9):2975-80.

3. Rybak I et al. Nutrients. 2021 Feb 27;13(3):785.

4. Foolad N et al. Phytother Res. 2019 Dec;33(12):3212-7.

5. Lin TK et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70.

6. Blaak J, Staib P. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Feb;44(1):1-9.

7. Sanju N et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4433-46.

8. Borzou SR et al. J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs. 2020 Jul/Aug;47(4):336-42.

9. Caglar S et al. Adv Skin Wound Care. 2020 Aug;33(8):1-6.

10. Simon D et al. Dermatol Ther. 2018 Nov;31(6):e12692.

11. Zeichner JA at al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018 Jan 1;17(1):78-82.

12. Hajhashemi M et al. J Matern Fetal Neonatal Med. 2018 Jul;31(13):1703-8.

13. Timur Tashan S and Kafkasli A. J Clin Nurs. 2012 Jun;21(11-12):1570-6.
 

Almonds and almond oil are known to exhibit anti-inflammatory, antihepatotoxicity, and immunity-boosting activity.¹ The seed from the deciduous almond tree (Oleum amygdalae), which is native to Iran and parts of the Levant, almonds contain copious amounts of phenols and polyphenols, fatty acids, and vitamin E, all of which are known to exert antioxidant activity.^2-5 These seeds have been found to have a substantial impact on serum lipids.⁴ Emollient and sclerosant characteristics have also been linked to almond oil, which has been found to ameliorate complexion and skin tone.⁵ Significantly, in vitro and in vivo studies have shown that UVB-induced photoaging can be attenuated through the use of almond oil and almond skin extract.² Further, in traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayurveda, and ancient Greco-Persian medicine, almond oil was used to treat cutaneous conditions, including eczema and psoriasis.¹The focus of this column is to provide an update on the use of almonds and almond oil for skincare since covering the topic in July 2014.

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Antiphotoaging activity

In 2019, Foolad and Vaughn conducted a prospective, investigator-blind, randomized controlled trial to determine the effects of almond consumption on facial sebum production and wrinkles. Participants (28 postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II completed the study) consumed 20% of their daily energy intake in almonds or a calorie-matched snack over 16 weeks through the UC Davis Dermatology Clinic. Photographic analysis revealed that the almond group experienced significantly diminished wrinkle severity, compared with the control group. The investigators concluded that daily almond consumption has the potential to decrease wrinkle severity in postmenopausal women and that almonds may confer natural antiaging effects.⁴

In a similar investigation 2 years later, Rybak et al. reported on a prospective, randomized controlled study to ascertain the effects of almond consumption on photoaging in postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I or II who obtained 20% of their daily energy consumption via almonds or a calorie-matched snack for 24 weeks. Results demonstrated significant effects conferred by almond consumption, with average wrinkle severity substantially diminished in the almond group at weeks 16 (by 15%) and 24 (by 16%), compared with baseline. In addition, facial pigment intensity was reduced by 20% in the almond group by week 16 and this was maintained through the end of the study. Further, sebum excretion was higher in the control group. The investigators concluded that the daily consumption of almonds may have the potential to enhance protection against photoaging, particularly in terms of facial wrinkles and pigment intensity, in postmenopausal women.³

Later in 2021, Li et al. conducted a study in 39 healthy Asian women (18-45 years old) with Fitzpatrick skin types II to IV to investigate the effects of almond consumption on UVB resistance. The researchers randomized participants to eat either 1.5 oz of almonds or 1.8 oz of pretzels daily for 12 weeks. Results showed that the minimal erythema dose was higher in the almond group as compared with the control group. No differences were observed in hydration, melanin, roughness, or sebum on facial skin. The authors concluded that daily oral almond intake may improve photoprotection by raising the minimal erythema dose.²

In a 2022 review on the cutaneous benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose, and jojoba oils, Blaak and Staib noted that all three have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years in traditional medicine to treat various conditions, including skin disorders. Further, they concluded that the longstanding uses of these oils has been borne out by contemporary data, which reveal cutaneous benefits for adult and young skin, particularly in bolstering stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio.⁶

Later that year, Sanju et al., reporting on the development and assessment of a broad-spectrum polyherbal sunscreen delivered through solid lipid nanoparticles, noted that almond oil was among the natural ingredients used because of its photoprotective characteristics. Overall, the sunscreen formulation, Safranal, was found to impart robust protection against UV radiation.⁷

Wound healing

In 2020, Borzou et al. conducted a single-blind randomized clinical trial to ascertain the impact of topical almond oil in preventing pressure injuries. Data collection occurred over 8 months in a hospital setting, with 108 patients randomly assigned to receive almond oil, placebo (liquid paraffin), or the control (standard of care). The researchers found that topically applied almond oil was linked to a lower incidence of pressure injuries, and they arose later in the study as compared with those injuries in the groups receiving paraffin or standard of care. Pressure injury incidence was 5.6% in the almond oil group, 13.9% in the placebo group, and 25.1% in the control group.⁸

That same year, Caglar et al. completed a randomized controlled trial in 90 preterm infants to assess the effects of sunflower seed oil and almond oil on the stratum corneum. Infants were randomly selected for treatment with either oil or control. A nurse researcher applied oils to the whole body except for the head and face four times daily for 5 days. Investigators determined that stratum corneum hydration was better in the oil groups as compared with control, with no difference found between sunflower seed and almond oils.⁹

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Eczema, hand dermatitis, and striae

In 2018, Simon et al. performed a randomized, double-blind study to determine the short- and long-term effects of two emollients on pruritus and skin restoration in xerotic eczema. The emollients contained lactic acid and refined almond oil, with one also including polidocanol. Both emollients were effective in reducing the severity of itching, with skin moisture and lipid content found to have risen after the initial administration and yielding steady improvement over 2 weeks.¹⁰

Earlier that year, Zeichner et al. found that the use of an OTC sweet almond oil, rich in fatty acids and a standard-bearing treatment for eczema and psoriasis for centuries, was effective in treating hand dermatitis. Specifically, the moisturizer, which contained 7% sweet almond oil and 2% colloidal oatmeal, was identified as safe and effective in resolving moderate to severe hand dermatitis.¹¹

Some studies have also shown almond oil to be effective against striae gravidarum. Hajhashemi et al. conducted a double-blind clinical trial in 160 nulliparous women to compare the effects of aloe vera gel and sweet almond oil on striae gravidarum in 2018. Volunteers were randomly assigned to one of three case groups (Aloe vera, sweet almond oil, or base cream) who received topical treatment on the abdomen, or the fourth group, which received no treatment. Results showed that both treatment creams were effective in decreasing erythema and the pruritus associated with striae as well as in preventing their expansion.¹² Previously, Tashan and Kafkasli showed in a nonrandomized study that massage with bitter almond oil may diminish the visibility of present striae gravidarum and prevent the emergence of new striae.¹³

Conclusion

Almonds and almond oil have been used as food and in traditional medical practices dating back several centuries. In the last decade, intriguing results have emerged regarding the effects of almond consumption or topical almond oil administration on skin health. While much more research is necessary, the recent data seem to support the traditional uses of this tree seed for dermatologic purposes.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology” (New York: McGraw Hill), was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Ahmad Z. Complement Ther Clin Pract. 2010 Feb;16(1):10-2.

2. Li JN et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Sep;20(9):2975-80.

3. Rybak I et al. Nutrients. 2021 Feb 27;13(3):785.

4. Foolad N et al. Phytother Res. 2019 Dec;33(12):3212-7.

5. Lin TK et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70.

6. Blaak J, Staib P. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Feb;44(1):1-9.

7. Sanju N et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4433-46.

8. Borzou SR et al. J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs. 2020 Jul/Aug;47(4):336-42.

9. Caglar S et al. Adv Skin Wound Care. 2020 Aug;33(8):1-6.

10. Simon D et al. Dermatol Ther. 2018 Nov;31(6):e12692.

11. Zeichner JA at al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018 Jan 1;17(1):78-82.

12. Hajhashemi M et al. J Matern Fetal Neonatal Med. 2018 Jul;31(13):1703-8.

13. Timur Tashan S and Kafkasli A. J Clin Nurs. 2012 Jun;21(11-12):1570-6.
 

Almonds and almond oil are known to exhibit anti-inflammatory, antihepatotoxicity, and immunity-boosting activity.¹ The seed from the deciduous almond tree (Oleum amygdalae), which is native to Iran and parts of the Levant, almonds contain copious amounts of phenols and polyphenols, fatty acids, and vitamin E, all of which are known to exert antioxidant activity.^2-5 These seeds have been found to have a substantial impact on serum lipids.⁴ Emollient and sclerosant characteristics have also been linked to almond oil, which has been found to ameliorate complexion and skin tone.⁵ Significantly, in vitro and in vivo studies have shown that UVB-induced photoaging can be attenuated through the use of almond oil and almond skin extract.² Further, in traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayurveda, and ancient Greco-Persian medicine, almond oil was used to treat cutaneous conditions, including eczema and psoriasis.¹The focus of this column is to provide an update on the use of almonds and almond oil for skincare since covering the topic in July 2014.

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Antiphotoaging activity

In 2019, Foolad and Vaughn conducted a prospective, investigator-blind, randomized controlled trial to determine the effects of almond consumption on facial sebum production and wrinkles. Participants (28 postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II completed the study) consumed 20% of their daily energy intake in almonds or a calorie-matched snack over 16 weeks through the UC Davis Dermatology Clinic. Photographic analysis revealed that the almond group experienced significantly diminished wrinkle severity, compared with the control group. The investigators concluded that daily almond consumption has the potential to decrease wrinkle severity in postmenopausal women and that almonds may confer natural antiaging effects.⁴

In a similar investigation 2 years later, Rybak et al. reported on a prospective, randomized controlled study to ascertain the effects of almond consumption on photoaging in postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I or II who obtained 20% of their daily energy consumption via almonds or a calorie-matched snack for 24 weeks. Results demonstrated significant effects conferred by almond consumption, with average wrinkle severity substantially diminished in the almond group at weeks 16 (by 15%) and 24 (by 16%), compared with baseline. In addition, facial pigment intensity was reduced by 20% in the almond group by week 16 and this was maintained through the end of the study. Further, sebum excretion was higher in the control group. The investigators concluded that the daily consumption of almonds may have the potential to enhance protection against photoaging, particularly in terms of facial wrinkles and pigment intensity, in postmenopausal women.³

Later in 2021, Li et al. conducted a study in 39 healthy Asian women (18-45 years old) with Fitzpatrick skin types II to IV to investigate the effects of almond consumption on UVB resistance. The researchers randomized participants to eat either 1.5 oz of almonds or 1.8 oz of pretzels daily for 12 weeks. Results showed that the minimal erythema dose was higher in the almond group as compared with the control group. No differences were observed in hydration, melanin, roughness, or sebum on facial skin. The authors concluded that daily oral almond intake may improve photoprotection by raising the minimal erythema dose.²

In a 2022 review on the cutaneous benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose, and jojoba oils, Blaak and Staib noted that all three have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years in traditional medicine to treat various conditions, including skin disorders. Further, they concluded that the longstanding uses of these oils has been borne out by contemporary data, which reveal cutaneous benefits for adult and young skin, particularly in bolstering stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio.⁶

Later that year, Sanju et al., reporting on the development and assessment of a broad-spectrum polyherbal sunscreen delivered through solid lipid nanoparticles, noted that almond oil was among the natural ingredients used because of its photoprotective characteristics. Overall, the sunscreen formulation, Safranal, was found to impart robust protection against UV radiation.⁷

Wound healing

In 2020, Borzou et al. conducted a single-blind randomized clinical trial to ascertain the impact of topical almond oil in preventing pressure injuries. Data collection occurred over 8 months in a hospital setting, with 108 patients randomly assigned to receive almond oil, placebo (liquid paraffin), or the control (standard of care). The researchers found that topically applied almond oil was linked to a lower incidence of pressure injuries, and they arose later in the study as compared with those injuries in the groups receiving paraffin or standard of care. Pressure injury incidence was 5.6% in the almond oil group, 13.9% in the placebo group, and 25.1% in the control group.⁸

That same year, Caglar et al. completed a randomized controlled trial in 90 preterm infants to assess the effects of sunflower seed oil and almond oil on the stratum corneum. Infants were randomly selected for treatment with either oil or control. A nurse researcher applied oils to the whole body except for the head and face four times daily for 5 days. Investigators determined that stratum corneum hydration was better in the oil groups as compared with control, with no difference found between sunflower seed and almond oils.⁹

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Eczema, hand dermatitis, and striae

In 2018, Simon et al. performed a randomized, double-blind study to determine the short- and long-term effects of two emollients on pruritus and skin restoration in xerotic eczema. The emollients contained lactic acid and refined almond oil, with one also including polidocanol. Both emollients were effective in reducing the severity of itching, with skin moisture and lipid content found to have risen after the initial administration and yielding steady improvement over 2 weeks.¹⁰

Earlier that year, Zeichner et al. found that the use of an OTC sweet almond oil, rich in fatty acids and a standard-bearing treatment for eczema and psoriasis for centuries, was effective in treating hand dermatitis. Specifically, the moisturizer, which contained 7% sweet almond oil and 2% colloidal oatmeal, was identified as safe and effective in resolving moderate to severe hand dermatitis.¹¹

Some studies have also shown almond oil to be effective against striae gravidarum. Hajhashemi et al. conducted a double-blind clinical trial in 160 nulliparous women to compare the effects of aloe vera gel and sweet almond oil on striae gravidarum in 2018. Volunteers were randomly assigned to one of three case groups (Aloe vera, sweet almond oil, or base cream) who received topical treatment on the abdomen, or the fourth group, which received no treatment. Results showed that both treatment creams were effective in decreasing erythema and the pruritus associated with striae as well as in preventing their expansion.¹² Previously, Tashan and Kafkasli showed in a nonrandomized study that massage with bitter almond oil may diminish the visibility of present striae gravidarum and prevent the emergence of new striae.¹³

Conclusion

Almonds and almond oil have been used as food and in traditional medical practices dating back several centuries. In the last decade, intriguing results have emerged regarding the effects of almond consumption or topical almond oil administration on skin health. While much more research is necessary, the recent data seem to support the traditional uses of this tree seed for dermatologic purposes.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology” (New York: McGraw Hill), was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Ahmad Z. Complement Ther Clin Pract. 2010 Feb;16(1):10-2.

2. Li JN et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Sep;20(9):2975-80.

3. Rybak I et al. Nutrients. 2021 Feb 27;13(3):785.

4. Foolad N et al. Phytother Res. 2019 Dec;33(12):3212-7.

5. Lin TK et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70.

6. Blaak J, Staib P. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Feb;44(1):1-9.

7. Sanju N et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4433-46.

8. Borzou SR et al. J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs. 2020 Jul/Aug;47(4):336-42.

9. Caglar S et al. Adv Skin Wound Care. 2020 Aug;33(8):1-6.

10. Simon D et al. Dermatol Ther. 2018 Nov;31(6):e12692.

11. Zeichner JA at al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018 Jan 1;17(1):78-82.

12. Hajhashemi M et al. J Matern Fetal Neonatal Med. 2018 Jul;31(13):1703-8.

13. Timur Tashan S and Kafkasli A. J Clin Nurs. 2012 Jun;21(11-12):1570-6.
 

Citrus bergamia (bergamot) is a fruit tree thought to originate in the Mediterranean area; its fruit has been a part of the diet in that region since the early 18th century.¹ Bergamot is known to confer antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory activity, and yields proapoptotic effects in the sebaceous gland.^2,3 The plant contains the natural furocoumarin bergapten, which is also known as 5-methoxypsoralen.⁴

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hypolipemic, and anticancer properties have been associated with bergapten, which is primarily found in bergamot essential oil and used effectively as a photosensitizing agent.⁵ In this capacity, bergamot oil has been used for photodynamic therapy of cutaneous conditions such as vitiligo.⁶ In fact, for several years 5-methoxypsoralen and 8-methoxypsoralen have been used to achieve acceptable clearance rates of psoriasis and vitiligo.⁷ This column focuses on bergapten, as well as the cutaneous conditions for which bergamot has been shown to have some benefits warranting application or further investigation.
 

Bergapten

In a 2021 literature review, Liang et al. cited the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, and other salutary effects associated with bergapten. Based on numerous citations, they also cautioned about the phototoxicity of the compound combined with ultraviolet (UV) light while noting the photoactivation of bergapten for anticancer uses.⁴

The following year, Quetglas-Llabrés et al. acknowledged, in another literature review, the numerous preclinical and in vitro studies demonstrating the therapeutic activity of bergapten and highlighted clinical trials revealing notable lesion clearance rates of psoriasis or vitiligo imparted by oral or topical bergapten along with UV irradiation. Bergapten was also found to be effective as hypolipemic therapy.⁵

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Anti-inflammatory topical uses

In a 2017 study by Han et al. of 10 essential oils, bergamot was among the investigated oils, all of which exhibited significant anti-proliferative activity in a preinflamed human dermal fibroblast system simulating chronic inflammation. Bergamot was among three essential oils that also suppressed protein molecules involved with inflammation, immune responses, and tissue remodeling, indicating anti-inflammatory and wound healing characteristics.⁸

More recently, Cristiano et al. reported that ultradeformable nanocarriers containing bergamot essential oil and ammonium glycyrrhizinate were demonstrated in healthy human volunteers to be characterized by the appropriate mean size, size distribution, surface charge, and long-term stability for topical administration. Topical administration on human volunteers also revealed greater activity of the combined agents as compared with a nanosystem loaded only with ammonium glycyrrhizinate. The researchers concluded that this combination of ingredients in ultradeformable vesicles shows potential as topical anti-inflammatory treatment.³

Acne

In a 2020 study using golden hamsters, Sun et al. assessed the effects of the juice and essential oils of bergamot and sweet orange on acne vulgaris engendered by excessive androgen secretion. Among 80 male hamsters randomly divided into 10 groups ranging from low to high doses, all results demonstrated improvement with treatment as seen by decreased growth rates of sebaceous glands, suppressed triglyceride accumulation, lowered inflammatory cytokine release, and apoptosis promotion in sebaceous glands. The authors noted that the essential oils yielded better dose-dependent effects than the juices.²

Psoriasis

In 2019, Perna et al. conducted a literature review on the effects of bergamot essential oil, extract, juice, and polyphenolic fraction on various health metrics. Thirty-one studies (20 involving humans with 1,709 subjects and 11 in rats and mice) were identified. Animal models indicated that bergamot essential oil (10 mg/kg or 20 mg/kg daily for 20 weeks) reduced psoriatic plaques, increased skin collagen content, and fostered hair growth and that bergamot juice (20 mg/kg) diminished proinflammatory cytokines. Human studies showed that bergamot extract and essential oil may reduce blood pressure and improve mental conditions.⁹

Vitiligo

In 2019, Shaaban et al. prepared elastic nanocarriers (spanlastics) to deliver psoralen-containing bergamot oil along with PUVB with the intention of harnessing melanogenic activity to treat vitiligo. Histopathologic assessment on rat skin was conducted before clinical treatment in patients with vitiligo. The spanlastics were deemed to be of suitable nanosize and deformable, yielding consistent bergamot oil release. The bergamot oil included in the nanocarrier was found to enhance photostability and photodynamic activity, with the researchers concluding that bergamot oil nanospanlastics with psoralen-UVB therapy shows potential as a vitiligo therapy.¹⁰

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Two years later, Shaaban evaluated bergamot oil formulated in nanostructured lipid carriers as a photosensitizer for photodynamic treatment of vitiligo. The botanical oil was effectively used in the nanostructured lipid carriers with a gel consistency that delivered sustained release of the oil for 24 hours. Preclinical and clinical results in patients were encouraging for the topical photodynamic treatment of vitiligo, with the nanostructured lipid carriers improving the photostability and photodynamic activity of bergamot oil.⁶

Photoaging, photoprotection, and safety concerns

Three decades ago, an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic, and photocarcinogenic characteristics of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens found that UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes could not inhibit the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.¹¹

In a 2015 study assessing the impact of 38% bergamot polyphenolic fraction (a highly concentrated Citrus bergamia fruit extract) on UVB-generated photoaging, Nisticò et al. found that the bergamot compound dose-dependently protected HaCaT cells against UVB-caused oxidative stress and photoaging markers. Suggesting that the high-antioxidant bergamot polyphenolic fraction has potential for use in skin care formulations, the researchers added that the extract seems to induce antiproliferative, immune-modulating, and antiaging activity.¹²In 2022, Alexa et al. performed in vitro tests and found that natural preparations containing bergamot, orange, and clove essential oils do not significantly alter physiological skin parameters and were deemed safe for topical use. An emulsion with bergamot essential oil was also found to reduce the viability of oral squamous cell carcinoma cells.¹³

Conclusion

As a photosensitizing agent, bergamot has an established role in skin care. Beyond its niche role in treatments for vitiligo and psoriasis, this botanical product appears to show potential as an anti-inflammatory agent as well as an ingredient to combat photoaging and skin cancer. Much more research is needed to elucidate the possible wider benefits of this Mediterranean staple.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Juber M. Health benefits of bergamot. WebMD. November 29, 2022. Accessed March 21, 2023.

2. Sun P et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2020 Oct 6;2020:8868107.

3. Cristiano MC et al. Biomedicines. 2022 Apr 30;10(5):1039.

4. Liang Y et al. Phytother Res. 2021 Nov;35(11):6131-47.

5. Quetglas-Llabrés MM et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2022 Apr 25;2022:8615242.

6. Shaaban M et al. Expert Opin Drug Deliv. 2021 Jan;18(1):139-50.

7. McNeely W, Goa KL. Drugs. 1998 Oct;56(4):667-90.

8. Han X, Beaumont C, Stevens N. Biochim Open. 2017 Apr 26;5:1-7.

9. Perna S et al. Food Sci Nutr. 2019 Jan 25;7(2):369-84.

10. Shaaban M et al. Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2019 Dec;9(6):1106-16.

11. Dubertret L et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 1990 Nov;7(2-4):251-9.

12. Nisticò S et al. J Biol Regul Homeost Agents. 2015 Jul-Sep;29(3):723-8.

13. Alexa VT et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 1;27(3):990.

Citrus bergamia (bergamot) is a fruit tree thought to originate in the Mediterranean area; its fruit has been a part of the diet in that region since the early 18th century.¹ Bergamot is known to confer antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory activity, and yields proapoptotic effects in the sebaceous gland.^2,3 The plant contains the natural furocoumarin bergapten, which is also known as 5-methoxypsoralen.⁴

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hypolipemic, and anticancer properties have been associated with bergapten, which is primarily found in bergamot essential oil and used effectively as a photosensitizing agent.⁵ In this capacity, bergamot oil has been used for photodynamic therapy of cutaneous conditions such as vitiligo.⁶ In fact, for several years 5-methoxypsoralen and 8-methoxypsoralen have been used to achieve acceptable clearance rates of psoriasis and vitiligo.⁷ This column focuses on bergapten, as well as the cutaneous conditions for which bergamot has been shown to have some benefits warranting application or further investigation.
 

Bergapten

In a 2021 literature review, Liang et al. cited the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, and other salutary effects associated with bergapten. Based on numerous citations, they also cautioned about the phototoxicity of the compound combined with ultraviolet (UV) light while noting the photoactivation of bergapten for anticancer uses.⁴

The following year, Quetglas-Llabrés et al. acknowledged, in another literature review, the numerous preclinical and in vitro studies demonstrating the therapeutic activity of bergapten and highlighted clinical trials revealing notable lesion clearance rates of psoriasis or vitiligo imparted by oral or topical bergapten along with UV irradiation. Bergapten was also found to be effective as hypolipemic therapy.⁵

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Anti-inflammatory topical uses

In a 2017 study by Han et al. of 10 essential oils, bergamot was among the investigated oils, all of which exhibited significant anti-proliferative activity in a preinflamed human dermal fibroblast system simulating chronic inflammation. Bergamot was among three essential oils that also suppressed protein molecules involved with inflammation, immune responses, and tissue remodeling, indicating anti-inflammatory and wound healing characteristics.⁸

More recently, Cristiano et al. reported that ultradeformable nanocarriers containing bergamot essential oil and ammonium glycyrrhizinate were demonstrated in healthy human volunteers to be characterized by the appropriate mean size, size distribution, surface charge, and long-term stability for topical administration. Topical administration on human volunteers also revealed greater activity of the combined agents as compared with a nanosystem loaded only with ammonium glycyrrhizinate. The researchers concluded that this combination of ingredients in ultradeformable vesicles shows potential as topical anti-inflammatory treatment.³

Acne

In a 2020 study using golden hamsters, Sun et al. assessed the effects of the juice and essential oils of bergamot and sweet orange on acne vulgaris engendered by excessive androgen secretion. Among 80 male hamsters randomly divided into 10 groups ranging from low to high doses, all results demonstrated improvement with treatment as seen by decreased growth rates of sebaceous glands, suppressed triglyceride accumulation, lowered inflammatory cytokine release, and apoptosis promotion in sebaceous glands. The authors noted that the essential oils yielded better dose-dependent effects than the juices.²

Psoriasis

In 2019, Perna et al. conducted a literature review on the effects of bergamot essential oil, extract, juice, and polyphenolic fraction on various health metrics. Thirty-one studies (20 involving humans with 1,709 subjects and 11 in rats and mice) were identified. Animal models indicated that bergamot essential oil (10 mg/kg or 20 mg/kg daily for 20 weeks) reduced psoriatic plaques, increased skin collagen content, and fostered hair growth and that bergamot juice (20 mg/kg) diminished proinflammatory cytokines. Human studies showed that bergamot extract and essential oil may reduce blood pressure and improve mental conditions.⁹

Vitiligo

In 2019, Shaaban et al. prepared elastic nanocarriers (spanlastics) to deliver psoralen-containing bergamot oil along with PUVB with the intention of harnessing melanogenic activity to treat vitiligo. Histopathologic assessment on rat skin was conducted before clinical treatment in patients with vitiligo. The spanlastics were deemed to be of suitable nanosize and deformable, yielding consistent bergamot oil release. The bergamot oil included in the nanocarrier was found to enhance photostability and photodynamic activity, with the researchers concluding that bergamot oil nanospanlastics with psoralen-UVB therapy shows potential as a vitiligo therapy.¹⁰

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Two years later, Shaaban evaluated bergamot oil formulated in nanostructured lipid carriers as a photosensitizer for photodynamic treatment of vitiligo. The botanical oil was effectively used in the nanostructured lipid carriers with a gel consistency that delivered sustained release of the oil for 24 hours. Preclinical and clinical results in patients were encouraging for the topical photodynamic treatment of vitiligo, with the nanostructured lipid carriers improving the photostability and photodynamic activity of bergamot oil.⁶

Photoaging, photoprotection, and safety concerns

Three decades ago, an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic, and photocarcinogenic characteristics of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens found that UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes could not inhibit the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.¹¹

In a 2015 study assessing the impact of 38% bergamot polyphenolic fraction (a highly concentrated Citrus bergamia fruit extract) on UVB-generated photoaging, Nisticò et al. found that the bergamot compound dose-dependently protected HaCaT cells against UVB-caused oxidative stress and photoaging markers. Suggesting that the high-antioxidant bergamot polyphenolic fraction has potential for use in skin care formulations, the researchers added that the extract seems to induce antiproliferative, immune-modulating, and antiaging activity.¹²In 2022, Alexa et al. performed in vitro tests and found that natural preparations containing bergamot, orange, and clove essential oils do not significantly alter physiological skin parameters and were deemed safe for topical use. An emulsion with bergamot essential oil was also found to reduce the viability of oral squamous cell carcinoma cells.¹³

Conclusion

As a photosensitizing agent, bergamot has an established role in skin care. Beyond its niche role in treatments for vitiligo and psoriasis, this botanical product appears to show potential as an anti-inflammatory agent as well as an ingredient to combat photoaging and skin cancer. Much more research is needed to elucidate the possible wider benefits of this Mediterranean staple.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Juber M. Health benefits of bergamot. WebMD. November 29, 2022. Accessed March 21, 2023.

2. Sun P et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2020 Oct 6;2020:8868107.

3. Cristiano MC et al. Biomedicines. 2022 Apr 30;10(5):1039.

4. Liang Y et al. Phytother Res. 2021 Nov;35(11):6131-47.

5. Quetglas-Llabrés MM et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2022 Apr 25;2022:8615242.

6. Shaaban M et al. Expert Opin Drug Deliv. 2021 Jan;18(1):139-50.

7. McNeely W, Goa KL. Drugs. 1998 Oct;56(4):667-90.

8. Han X, Beaumont C, Stevens N. Biochim Open. 2017 Apr 26;5:1-7.

9. Perna S et al. Food Sci Nutr. 2019 Jan 25;7(2):369-84.

10. Shaaban M et al. Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2019 Dec;9(6):1106-16.

11. Dubertret L et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 1990 Nov;7(2-4):251-9.

12. Nisticò S et al. J Biol Regul Homeost Agents. 2015 Jul-Sep;29(3):723-8.

13. Alexa VT et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 1;27(3):990.

Citrus bergamia (bergamot) is a fruit tree thought to originate in the Mediterranean area; its fruit has been a part of the diet in that region since the early 18th century.¹ Bergamot is known to confer antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory activity, and yields proapoptotic effects in the sebaceous gland.^2,3 The plant contains the natural furocoumarin bergapten, which is also known as 5-methoxypsoralen.⁴

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hypolipemic, and anticancer properties have been associated with bergapten, which is primarily found in bergamot essential oil and used effectively as a photosensitizing agent.⁵ In this capacity, bergamot oil has been used for photodynamic therapy of cutaneous conditions such as vitiligo.⁶ In fact, for several years 5-methoxypsoralen and 8-methoxypsoralen have been used to achieve acceptable clearance rates of psoriasis and vitiligo.⁷ This column focuses on bergapten, as well as the cutaneous conditions for which bergamot has been shown to have some benefits warranting application or further investigation.
 

Bergapten

In a 2021 literature review, Liang et al. cited the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, and other salutary effects associated with bergapten. Based on numerous citations, they also cautioned about the phototoxicity of the compound combined with ultraviolet (UV) light while noting the photoactivation of bergapten for anticancer uses.⁴

The following year, Quetglas-Llabrés et al. acknowledged, in another literature review, the numerous preclinical and in vitro studies demonstrating the therapeutic activity of bergapten and highlighted clinical trials revealing notable lesion clearance rates of psoriasis or vitiligo imparted by oral or topical bergapten along with UV irradiation. Bergapten was also found to be effective as hypolipemic therapy.⁵

[embed:render:related:node:261014]

Anti-inflammatory topical uses

In a 2017 study by Han et al. of 10 essential oils, bergamot was among the investigated oils, all of which exhibited significant anti-proliferative activity in a preinflamed human dermal fibroblast system simulating chronic inflammation. Bergamot was among three essential oils that also suppressed protein molecules involved with inflammation, immune responses, and tissue remodeling, indicating anti-inflammatory and wound healing characteristics.⁸

More recently, Cristiano et al. reported that ultradeformable nanocarriers containing bergamot essential oil and ammonium glycyrrhizinate were demonstrated in healthy human volunteers to be characterized by the appropriate mean size, size distribution, surface charge, and long-term stability for topical administration. Topical administration on human volunteers also revealed greater activity of the combined agents as compared with a nanosystem loaded only with ammonium glycyrrhizinate. The researchers concluded that this combination of ingredients in ultradeformable vesicles shows potential as topical anti-inflammatory treatment.³

Acne

In a 2020 study using golden hamsters, Sun et al. assessed the effects of the juice and essential oils of bergamot and sweet orange on acne vulgaris engendered by excessive androgen secretion. Among 80 male hamsters randomly divided into 10 groups ranging from low to high doses, all results demonstrated improvement with treatment as seen by decreased growth rates of sebaceous glands, suppressed triglyceride accumulation, lowered inflammatory cytokine release, and apoptosis promotion in sebaceous glands. The authors noted that the essential oils yielded better dose-dependent effects than the juices.²

Psoriasis

In 2019, Perna et al. conducted a literature review on the effects of bergamot essential oil, extract, juice, and polyphenolic fraction on various health metrics. Thirty-one studies (20 involving humans with 1,709 subjects and 11 in rats and mice) were identified. Animal models indicated that bergamot essential oil (10 mg/kg or 20 mg/kg daily for 20 weeks) reduced psoriatic plaques, increased skin collagen content, and fostered hair growth and that bergamot juice (20 mg/kg) diminished proinflammatory cytokines. Human studies showed that bergamot extract and essential oil may reduce blood pressure and improve mental conditions.⁹

Vitiligo

In 2019, Shaaban et al. prepared elastic nanocarriers (spanlastics) to deliver psoralen-containing bergamot oil along with PUVB with the intention of harnessing melanogenic activity to treat vitiligo. Histopathologic assessment on rat skin was conducted before clinical treatment in patients with vitiligo. The spanlastics were deemed to be of suitable nanosize and deformable, yielding consistent bergamot oil release. The bergamot oil included in the nanocarrier was found to enhance photostability and photodynamic activity, with the researchers concluding that bergamot oil nanospanlastics with psoralen-UVB therapy shows potential as a vitiligo therapy.¹⁰

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Two years later, Shaaban evaluated bergamot oil formulated in nanostructured lipid carriers as a photosensitizer for photodynamic treatment of vitiligo. The botanical oil was effectively used in the nanostructured lipid carriers with a gel consistency that delivered sustained release of the oil for 24 hours. Preclinical and clinical results in patients were encouraging for the topical photodynamic treatment of vitiligo, with the nanostructured lipid carriers improving the photostability and photodynamic activity of bergamot oil.⁶

Photoaging, photoprotection, and safety concerns

Three decades ago, an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic, and photocarcinogenic characteristics of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens found that UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes could not inhibit the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.¹¹

In a 2015 study assessing the impact of 38% bergamot polyphenolic fraction (a highly concentrated Citrus bergamia fruit extract) on UVB-generated photoaging, Nisticò et al. found that the bergamot compound dose-dependently protected HaCaT cells against UVB-caused oxidative stress and photoaging markers. Suggesting that the high-antioxidant bergamot polyphenolic fraction has potential for use in skin care formulations, the researchers added that the extract seems to induce antiproliferative, immune-modulating, and antiaging activity.¹²In 2022, Alexa et al. performed in vitro tests and found that natural preparations containing bergamot, orange, and clove essential oils do not significantly alter physiological skin parameters and were deemed safe for topical use. An emulsion with bergamot essential oil was also found to reduce the viability of oral squamous cell carcinoma cells.¹³

Conclusion

As a photosensitizing agent, bergamot has an established role in skin care. Beyond its niche role in treatments for vitiligo and psoriasis, this botanical product appears to show potential as an anti-inflammatory agent as well as an ingredient to combat photoaging and skin cancer. Much more research is needed to elucidate the possible wider benefits of this Mediterranean staple.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Juber M. Health benefits of bergamot. WebMD. November 29, 2022. Accessed March 21, 2023.

2. Sun P et al. Mediators Inflamm. 2020 Oct 6;2020:8868107.

3. Cristiano MC et al. Biomedicines. 2022 Apr 30;10(5):1039.

4. Liang Y et al. Phytother Res. 2021 Nov;35(11):6131-47.

5. Quetglas-Llabrés MM et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2022 Apr 25;2022:8615242.

6. Shaaban M et al. Expert Opin Drug Deliv. 2021 Jan;18(1):139-50.

7. McNeely W, Goa KL. Drugs. 1998 Oct;56(4):667-90.

8. Han X, Beaumont C, Stevens N. Biochim Open. 2017 Apr 26;5:1-7.

9. Perna S et al. Food Sci Nutr. 2019 Jan 25;7(2):369-84.

10. Shaaban M et al. Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2019 Dec;9(6):1106-16.

11. Dubertret L et al. J Photochem Photobiol B. 1990 Nov;7(2-4):251-9.

12. Nisticò S et al. J Biol Regul Homeost Agents. 2015 Jul-Sep;29(3):723-8.

13. Alexa VT et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 1;27(3):990.

The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.^1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.^4-6The identification of bioactive constituents in C. japonica is a relatively recent phenomenon and accounts for the emerging interest in its potential medical applications.^1,7

Camellia japonica flickr_web.jpg

While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
 

Antioxidant activity

In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).⁸ Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.⁹

Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.⁴

Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.¹⁰

Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity

In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.⁶

Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.¹¹

Cosmeceutical potential

Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.¹ The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.¹² Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.⁹

Wrinkle reduction and moisturization

In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.¹³

[embed:render:related:node:259186]

More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.¹⁴

Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity

Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.²

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.¹⁵
 

Conclusion

C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.

2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.

3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.

4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.

5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.

6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.

7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.

8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.

9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.

10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.

11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.

12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.

13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.

14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.

15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.

The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.^1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.^4-6The identification of bioactive constituents in C. japonica is a relatively recent phenomenon and accounts for the emerging interest in its potential medical applications.^1,7

Camellia japonica flickr_web.jpg

While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
 

Antioxidant activity

In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).⁸ Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.⁹

Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.⁴

Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.¹⁰

Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity

In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.⁶

Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.¹¹

Cosmeceutical potential

Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.¹ The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.¹² Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.⁹

Wrinkle reduction and moisturization

In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.¹³

[embed:render:related:node:259186]

More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.¹⁴

Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity

Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.²

Baumann_Leslie_S_USE_web.jpg

Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.¹⁵
 

Conclusion

C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.

2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.

3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.

4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.

5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.

6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.

7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.

8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.

9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.

10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.

11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.

12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.

13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.

14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.

15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.

The various Camellia species originated in Eastern Asia and are believed to have been introduced in northwestern Spain in the 18th century. Camellia japonica, a flowering evergreen tree with various medical and cosmetic applications, is found throughout Galicia, Spain, where it is cultivated as an ornamental plant, and is native to Japan, South Korea, and China.^1-4 The flowers and seeds of C. japonica have been used in traditional medicine and cosmetics in East Asia, with the oil of C. japonica used there to restore skin elasticity and to enhance skin health.^4-6The identification of bioactive constituents in C. japonica is a relatively recent phenomenon and accounts for the emerging interest in its potential medical applications.^1,7

Camellia japonica flickr_web.jpg

While the use of C. sinensis in traditional and modern medicine is much better researched, understood, and characterized, C. japonica is now being considered for various health benefits. This column will focus on the bioactivity and scientific support for dermatologic applications of C. japonica. It is worth noting that a dry oil known as tsubaki oil, derived from C. japonica and rich in oleic acid, polyphenols, as well as vitamins A, C, D, and E, is used for skin and hair care in moisturizers produced primarily in Japan.
 

Antioxidant activity

In 2005, Lee and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf and flower extracts display antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities (with the latter showing greater gram-positive than gram-negative activity).⁸ Investigating the antioxidant characteristics of the ethanol extract of the C. japonica flower in 2011, Piao and colleagues reported that the botanical exerted scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes and enhanced protein expression and function of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase.⁹

Less than a decade later, Yoon and colleagues determined that C. japonica leaf extract contains high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin as well as other active constituents and that it exhibits antioxidant and antihyperuricemic activity in vitro and in vivo.⁴

Since then, Kim and colleagues have demonstrated, using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, that C. japonica flower extract effectively hindered urban air pollutants–induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. In ex vivo results, the investigators showed that the botanical agent suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, fostered collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. The authors concluded that C. japonica flower extract shows promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage.¹⁰

Anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity

In 2012, Kim and colleagues found that C. japonica oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity via down-regulation of iNOS and COX-2 gene expression by suppressing of NF-KB and AP-1 signaling.⁶

Jeon and colleagues determined, in a 2018 investigation of 3,695 native plant extracts, that extracts from C. japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. They suggested that their findings may point toward more effective approaches to developing clinical-grade iPSCs and wound-healing therapies.¹¹

Cosmeceutical potential

Among the important bioactive ingredients present in C. japonica are phenolic compounds, terpenoids, and fatty acids, which are thought to account for the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity associated with the plant.¹ The high concentration of polyphenolic substances, in particular, is thought to at least partly account for the inclusion of C. japonica leaf extracts in antiaging cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.¹² Specifically, some of the antioxidant substances found in C. japonica extracts include quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol.⁹

Wrinkle reduction and moisturization

In 2007, Jung and colleagues found that C. japonica oil activated collagen 1A2 promotion in human dermal fibroblast cells in a concentration-dependent fashion. The oil also suppressed MMP-1 functions and spurred the production of human type I procollagen. On human skin, C. japonica oil was tested on the upper back of 30 volunteers and failed to provoke any adverse reactions. The oil also diminished transepidermal water loss on the forearm. The researchers concluded that C. japonica oil merits consideration as an antiwrinkle ingredient in topical formulations.¹³

[embed:render:related:node:259186]

More recently, Choi and colleagues showed that ceramide nanoparticles developed through the use of natural oils derived from Korean traditional plants (including C. japonica, along with Panax ginseng, C. sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, and Glycine max seoritae) improve skin carrier functions and promote gene expressions needed for epidermal homeostasis. The expressions of the FLG, CASP14, and INV genes were notably enhanced by the tested formulation. The researchers observed from in vivo human studies that the application of the ceramide nanoparticles yielded more rapid recovery in impaired skin barriers than the control formulation. Amelioration of stratum corneum cohesion was also noted. The investigators concluded that this and other natural oil–derived ceramide nanoparticle formulations may represent the potential for developing better moisturizers for enhancing skin barrier function.¹⁴

Hair-growth promotion and skin-whitening activity

Early in 2021, Cho and colleagues demonstrated that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract spurred the up-regulation of the expression of hair growth–marker genes in human follicle dermal papilla cells in vitro. In clinical tests with 42 adult female volunteers, a solution with 0.5% C. japonica placenta extract raised moisture content of the scalp and reduced sebum levels, dead scalp keratin, and redness. The researchers concluded that C. japonica phytoplacenta extract displays promise as a scalp treatment and hair growth–promoting agent.²

Later that year, Ha and colleagues reported on their findings regarding the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the essential oil of C. japonica seeds. They identified hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) as the main constituents of the oil, which demonstrated comparable inhibitory activity to arbutin (positive control) against mushroom tyrosinase. Melanogenesis was also significantly suppressed by C. japonica seed essential oil in B16F10 melanoma cells. The investigators concluded that the essential oil of C. japonica seeds exhibits robust antityrosinase activity and, therefore, warrants consideration as a skin-whitening agent.¹⁵
 

Conclusion

C. japonica is not as popular or well researched as another Camellia species, C. sinensis (the primary tea plant consumed globally and highly touted and appreciated for its multitude of health benefits), but it has its own history of traditional uses for medical and cosmetic purposes and is a subject of increasing research interest along with popular applications. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are thought to be central in conferring the ability to protect the skin from aging. Its effects on the skin barrier help skin hydration. More research is necessary to elucidate the apparently widespread potential of this botanical agent that is already found in some over-the-counter products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Pereira AG et al. Food Chem X. 2022 Feb 17;13:100258.

2. Cho WK et al. FEBS Open Bio. 2021 Mar;11(3):633-51.

3. Chung MY et al. Evolution. 2003 Jan;57(1):62-73.

4. Yoon IS et al. Int J Mol Med. 2017 Jun;39(6):1613-20.

5. Lee HH et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.

6. Kim S et al. BMB Rep. 2012 Mar;45(3):177-82.

7. Majumder S et al. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020 Dec;44(1):1-4.

8. Lee SY et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.

9. Piao MJ et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.

10. Kim M et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019 Jan 28;19(1):30.

11. Jeon H et al. J Clin Med. 2018 Nov 20;7(11):449.

12. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Exp Dermatol. 2014 Oct;23 Suppl 1:23-6.

13. Jung E et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 May 30;112(1):127-31.

14. Choi HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-41.

15. Ha SY et al. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.

Also known as Asian or Chinese lizard’s tail (or Sam-baekcho in Korea), Saururus chinensis is an East Asian plant used in traditional medicine for various indications including edema, gonorrhea, jaundice, hypertension, leproma, pneumonia, and rheumatoid arthritis.^1,2 Specifically, Korean traditional medicine practitioners as well as Native Americans and early colonists in what is now the United States used the botanical to treat cancer, edema, rheumatoid arthritis, and other inflammatory conditions.^2-4 Modern research has produced evidence supporting the use of this plant in the dermatologic realm. This column focuses on the relevant bench science and possible applications.

Various beneficial effects

In 2008, Yoo et al. found that the ethanol extract of the dried aerial parts of S. chinensis exhibit anti-inflammatory, antiangiogenic, and antinociceptive properties, which they suggested may partially account for the established therapeutic effects of the plant.² Also, Lee et al. reported in 2012 on the antiproliferative effects against human cancer cell lines of neolignans found in S. chinensis.⁵

Saururus_chinensis_web.jpg

Antioxidant properties have been associated with S. chinensis. In 2014, Kim et al. reported that S. chinensis extract attenuated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated neuroinflammatory response in BV-2 microglia cells, a result that the authors partly ascribed to the antioxidant constituents (particularly quercetin) of the plant.³
 

Atopic dermatitis

In 2008, Choi et al. determined that the leaves of S. chinensis impeded the formation of atopic dermatitis–like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice caused by repeated application of picryl chloride, potentially by stimulating the Th1 cell response, thus modulating Th1/Th2 imbalance. They concluded that S. chinensis has potential as an adjunct treatment option for atopic dermatitis.⁶

Anti-inflammatory activity

In 2010, Bae et al. studied the anti-inflammatory properties of sauchinone, a lignan derived from S. chinensis reputed to exert antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hepatoprotective activity,⁷ using LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. They found that the lignan lowered tumor necrosis factor (TNF)–alpha synthesis by inhibiting the c-Raf-MEK1/2-ERK1/2 phosphorylation pathway, accounting for the anti-inflammatory effects of the S. chinensis constituent.⁸

[embed:render:related:node:259186]

More recently, Zhang et al. determined that the ethanol extract of S. chinensis leaves impaired proinflammatory gene expression by blocking the TAK1/AP-1 pathway in LPS-treated RAW264.7 macrophages. They suggested that such suppression is a significant step in the anti-inflammatory function exhibited by the plant.¹
 

Photoprotection

Park et al. investigated in 2013 the beneficial effects of sauchinone. Specifically, they studied potential photoprotective effects of the lignan against UVB in HaCaT human epidermal keratinocytes. They found that sauchinone (5-40 mcm) conferred significant protection as evaluated by cell viability and a toxicity assay. At 20-40 mcm, sauchinone blocked the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)–1 proteins and decrease of type 1 collagen engendered by UVB exposure. The investigators further discovered that sauchinone diminished the synthesis of reactive oxygen species. Overall, they determined that sauchinone imparted protection by suppressing extracellular signal-regulated kinase, c-Jun N-terminal kinase, and p38 MAPK signaling through the activation of oxidative defense enzymes.⁷

Potential use as a depigmenting agent

In 2009, Seo et al. isolated the lignans manassantin A and B from S. chinensis and determined that these compounds dose-dependently impeded melanin synthesis in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH)–activated melanoma B16 cells. They also noted that manassantin A suppressed forskolin- or 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)–induced melanin production and diminished cellular levels of IBMX-inducible tyrosinase protein. The lignan had no effect on the catalytic activity of cell-free tyrosinase, an important enzyme in melanin pigment production. The researchers concluded that their results suggest the potential for S. chinensis to be used to treat hyperpigmentation disorders.⁹

Two years later Lee et al. found that manassantin A, derived from S. chinensis, steadily suppressed the cAMP elevator IBMX- or dibutyryl cAMP-induced melanin synthesis in B16 cells or in melan-a melanocytes by down-regulating the expression of tyrosinase or the TRP1 gene. The lignan also inhibited microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) induction via the IBMX-activated cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB) pathway, thus preventing the Ser-133 phosphorylation of CREB. The researchers concluded that this molecular disruption of melanin production suggests the potential for the use of manassantin A as a skin depigmenting agent.¹⁰

That same year, another S. chinensis lignan gained interest. Yun et al. investigated the effects of the S. chinensis lignan component saucerneol D on melanin synthesis in cAMP-elevated melanocytes. They found that the lignan efficiently impeded melanin product in B16 melanoma cells stimulated with alpha-MSH or other cAMP elevators. Saucerneol D was also credited with down-regulating alpha-MSH–induced gene expression of tyrosinase at the transcription level in B16 cells, suppressing alpha-MSH–induced phosphorylation of CREB in the cells, and inhibiting MITF induction. The investigators concluded that their results point to the potential of the S. chinensis lignan saucerneol D for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.¹¹

In 2012, Chang et al. observed that an extract of S. chinensis and one of its constituent lignans, manassantin B, prevented melanosome transport in normal human melanocytes and Melan-a melanocytes, by interrupting the interaction between melanophilin and myosin Va. The investigators concluded that as a substance that can hinder melanosome transport, manassantin B displays potential for use as depigmenting product.¹²

The following year, Lee et al. studied the effects of S. chinensis extracts on the melanogenesis signaling pathway activated by alpha-MSH, finding dose-dependent inhibition without provoking cytotoxicity in B16F10 cells. Further, the team found evidence that the depigmenting activity exhibited by S. chinensis extracts may occur as a result of MITF and tyrosinase expression stemming from elevated activity of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK). They concluded that their results support further examination of S. chinensis for its potential to contribute to skin whitening.⁵
 

Conclusion

S. chinensis has been used for many years in traditional medicine, particularly in Asia, and this interesting botanical cosmeceutical ingredient is included in Asian skin care products. Multiple lignan constituents in this plant-derived ingredient appear to yield anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, and antitumor properties. Its inhibitory effects on melanin production and its antiaging abilities make it worthy of further study and consideration of inclusion in antiaging skin care products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in the office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Zhang J et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2021 Oct 28;279:114400.

2. Yoo HJ et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2008 Nov 20;120(2):282-6.

3. Kim BW et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2014 Dec 16;14:502.

4. Lee DH et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2013;36(5):772-9.

5. Lee YJ et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2012;35(8):1361-6.

6. Choi MS et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2008 Jan;31(1):51-6.

7. Park G et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2013;36(7):1134-9.

8. Bae HB et al. Int Immunopharmacol. 2010 Sep;10(9):1022-8.

9. Seo CS et al. Phytother Res. 2009 Nov;23(11):1531-6.

10. Lee HD et al. Exp Dermatol. 2011 Sep;20(9):761-3.

11. Yun JY et al. Arch Pharm Res. 2011 Aug;34(8):1339-45.

12. Chang H et al. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2012 Nov;25(6):765-72.
 

Also known as Asian or Chinese lizard’s tail (or Sam-baekcho in Korea), Saururus chinensis is an East Asian plant used in traditional medicine for various indications including edema, gonorrhea, jaundice, hypertension, leproma, pneumonia, and rheumatoid arthritis.^1,2 Specifically, Korean traditional medicine practitioners as well as Native Americans and early colonists in what is now the United States used the botanical to treat cancer, edema, rheumatoid arthritis, and other inflammatory conditions.^2-4 Modern research has produced evidence supporting the use of this plant in the dermatologic realm. This column focuses on the relevant bench science and possible applications.

Various beneficial effects

In 2008, Yoo et al. found that the ethanol extract of the dried aerial parts of S. chinensis exhibit anti-inflammatory, antiangiogenic, and antinociceptive properties, which they suggested may partially account for the established therapeutic effects of the plant.² Also, Lee et al. reported in 2012 on the antiproliferative effects against human cancer cell lines of neolignans found in S. chinensis.⁵

Saururus_chinensis_web.jpg

Antioxidant properties have been associated with S. chinensis. In 2014, Kim et al. reported that S. chinensis extract attenuated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated neuroinflammatory response in BV-2 microglia cells, a result that the authors partly ascribed to the antioxidant constituents (particularly quercetin) of the plant.³
 

Atopic dermatitis

In 2008, Choi et al. determined that the leaves of S. chinensis impeded the formation of atopic dermatitis–like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice caused by repeated application of picryl chloride, potentially by stimulating the Th1 cell response, thus modulating Th1/Th2 imbalance. They concluded that S. chinensis has potential as an adjunct treatment option for atopic dermatitis.⁶

Anti-inflammatory activity

In 2010, Bae et al. studied the anti-inflammatory properties of sauchinone, a lignan derived from S. chinensis reputed to exert antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hepatoprotective activity,⁷ using LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. They found that the lignan lowered tumor necrosis factor (TNF)–alpha synthesis by inhibiting the c-Raf-MEK1/2-ERK1/2 phosphorylation pathway, accounting for the anti-inflammatory effects of the S. chinensis constituent.⁸

[embed:render:related:node:259186]

More recently, Zhang et al. determined that the ethanol extract of S. chinensis leaves impaired proinflammatory gene expression by blocking the TAK1/AP-1 pathway in LPS-treated RAW264.7 macrophages. They suggested that such suppression is a significant step in the anti-inflammatory function exhibited by the plant.¹
 

Photoprotection

Park et al. investigated in 2013 the beneficial effects of sauchinone. Specifically, they studied potential photoprotective effects of the lignan against UVB in HaCaT human epidermal keratinocytes. They found that sauchinone (5-40 mcm) conferred significant protection as evaluated by cell viability and a toxicity assay. At 20-40 mcm, sauchinone blocked the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)–1 proteins and decrease of type 1 collagen engendered by UVB exposure. The investigators further discovered that sauchinone diminished the synthesis of reactive oxygen species. Overall, they determined that sauchinone imparted protection by suppressing extracellular signal-regulated kinase, c-Jun N-terminal kinase, and p38 MAPK signaling through the activation of oxidative defense enzymes.⁷

Potential use as a depigmenting agent

In 2009, Seo et al. isolated the lignans manassantin A and B from S. chinensis and determined that these compounds dose-dependently impeded melanin synthesis in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH)–activated melanoma B16 cells. They also noted that manassantin A suppressed forskolin- or 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)–induced melanin production and diminished cellular levels of IBMX-inducible tyrosinase protein. The lignan had no effect on the catalytic activity of cell-free tyrosinase, an important enzyme in melanin pigment production. The researchers concluded that their results suggest the potential for S. chinensis to be used to treat hyperpigmentation disorders.⁹

Two years later Lee et al. found that manassantin A, derived from S. chinensis, steadily suppressed the cAMP elevator IBMX- or dibutyryl cAMP-induced melanin synthesis in B16 cells or in melan-a melanocytes by down-regulating the expression of tyrosinase or the TRP1 gene. The lignan also inhibited microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) induction via the IBMX-activated cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB) pathway, thus preventing the Ser-133 phosphorylation of CREB. The researchers concluded that this molecular disruption of melanin production suggests the potential for the use of manassantin A as a skin depigmenting agent.¹⁰

That same year, another S. chinensis lignan gained interest. Yun et al. investigated the effects of the S. chinensis lignan component saucerneol D on melanin synthesis in cAMP-elevated melanocytes. They found that the lignan efficiently impeded melanin product in B16 melanoma cells stimulated with alpha-MSH or other cAMP elevators. Saucerneol D was also credited with down-regulating alpha-MSH–induced gene expression of tyrosinase at the transcription level in B16 cells, suppressing alpha-MSH–induced phosphorylation of CREB in the cells, and inhibiting MITF induction. The investigators concluded that their results point to the potential of the S. chinensis lignan saucerneol D for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.¹¹

In 2012, Chang et al. observed that an extract of S. chinensis and one of its constituent lignans, manassantin B, prevented melanosome transport in normal human melanocytes and Melan-a melanocytes, by interrupting the interaction between melanophilin and myosin Va. The investigators concluded that as a substance that can hinder melanosome transport, manassantin B displays potential for use as depigmenting product.¹²

The following year, Lee et al. studied the effects of S. chinensis extracts on the melanogenesis signaling pathway activated by alpha-MSH, finding dose-dependent inhibition without provoking cytotoxicity in B16F10 cells. Further, the team found evidence that the depigmenting activity exhibited by S. chinensis extracts may occur as a result of MITF and tyrosinase expression stemming from elevated activity of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK). They concluded that their results support further examination of S. chinensis for its potential to contribute to skin whitening.⁵
 

Conclusion

S. chinensis has been used for many years in traditional medicine, particularly in Asia, and this interesting botanical cosmeceutical ingredient is included in Asian skin care products. Multiple lignan constituents in this plant-derived ingredient appear to yield anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, and antitumor properties. Its inhibitory effects on melanin production and its antiaging abilities make it worthy of further study and consideration of inclusion in antiaging skin care products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in the office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Zhang J et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2021 Oct 28;279:114400.

2. Yoo HJ et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2008 Nov 20;120(2):282-6.

3. Kim BW et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2014 Dec 16;14:502.

4. Lee DH et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2013;36(5):772-9.

5. Lee YJ et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2012;35(8):1361-6.

6. Choi MS et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2008 Jan;31(1):51-6.

7. Park G et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2013;36(7):1134-9.

8. Bae HB et al. Int Immunopharmacol. 2010 Sep;10(9):1022-8.

9. Seo CS et al. Phytother Res. 2009 Nov;23(11):1531-6.

10. Lee HD et al. Exp Dermatol. 2011 Sep;20(9):761-3.

11. Yun JY et al. Arch Pharm Res. 2011 Aug;34(8):1339-45.

12. Chang H et al. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2012 Nov;25(6):765-72.
 

Also known as Asian or Chinese lizard’s tail (or Sam-baekcho in Korea), Saururus chinensis is an East Asian plant used in traditional medicine for various indications including edema, gonorrhea, jaundice, hypertension, leproma, pneumonia, and rheumatoid arthritis.^1,2 Specifically, Korean traditional medicine practitioners as well as Native Americans and early colonists in what is now the United States used the botanical to treat cancer, edema, rheumatoid arthritis, and other inflammatory conditions.^2-4 Modern research has produced evidence supporting the use of this plant in the dermatologic realm. This column focuses on the relevant bench science and possible applications.

Various beneficial effects

In 2008, Yoo et al. found that the ethanol extract of the dried aerial parts of S. chinensis exhibit anti-inflammatory, antiangiogenic, and antinociceptive properties, which they suggested may partially account for the established therapeutic effects of the plant.² Also, Lee et al. reported in 2012 on the antiproliferative effects against human cancer cell lines of neolignans found in S. chinensis.⁵

Saururus_chinensis_web.jpg

Antioxidant properties have been associated with S. chinensis. In 2014, Kim et al. reported that S. chinensis extract attenuated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated neuroinflammatory response in BV-2 microglia cells, a result that the authors partly ascribed to the antioxidant constituents (particularly quercetin) of the plant.³
 

Atopic dermatitis

In 2008, Choi et al. determined that the leaves of S. chinensis impeded the formation of atopic dermatitis–like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice caused by repeated application of picryl chloride, potentially by stimulating the Th1 cell response, thus modulating Th1/Th2 imbalance. They concluded that S. chinensis has potential as an adjunct treatment option for atopic dermatitis.⁶

Anti-inflammatory activity

In 2010, Bae et al. studied the anti-inflammatory properties of sauchinone, a lignan derived from S. chinensis reputed to exert antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hepatoprotective activity,⁷ using LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. They found that the lignan lowered tumor necrosis factor (TNF)–alpha synthesis by inhibiting the c-Raf-MEK1/2-ERK1/2 phosphorylation pathway, accounting for the anti-inflammatory effects of the S. chinensis constituent.⁸

[embed:render:related:node:259186]

More recently, Zhang et al. determined that the ethanol extract of S. chinensis leaves impaired proinflammatory gene expression by blocking the TAK1/AP-1 pathway in LPS-treated RAW264.7 macrophages. They suggested that such suppression is a significant step in the anti-inflammatory function exhibited by the plant.¹
 

Photoprotection

Park et al. investigated in 2013 the beneficial effects of sauchinone. Specifically, they studied potential photoprotective effects of the lignan against UVB in HaCaT human epidermal keratinocytes. They found that sauchinone (5-40 mcm) conferred significant protection as evaluated by cell viability and a toxicity assay. At 20-40 mcm, sauchinone blocked the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)–1 proteins and decrease of type 1 collagen engendered by UVB exposure. The investigators further discovered that sauchinone diminished the synthesis of reactive oxygen species. Overall, they determined that sauchinone imparted protection by suppressing extracellular signal-regulated kinase, c-Jun N-terminal kinase, and p38 MAPK signaling through the activation of oxidative defense enzymes.⁷

Potential use as a depigmenting agent

In 2009, Seo et al. isolated the lignans manassantin A and B from S. chinensis and determined that these compounds dose-dependently impeded melanin synthesis in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH)–activated melanoma B16 cells. They also noted that manassantin A suppressed forskolin- or 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)–induced melanin production and diminished cellular levels of IBMX-inducible tyrosinase protein. The lignan had no effect on the catalytic activity of cell-free tyrosinase, an important enzyme in melanin pigment production. The researchers concluded that their results suggest the potential for S. chinensis to be used to treat hyperpigmentation disorders.⁹

Two years later Lee et al. found that manassantin A, derived from S. chinensis, steadily suppressed the cAMP elevator IBMX- or dibutyryl cAMP-induced melanin synthesis in B16 cells or in melan-a melanocytes by down-regulating the expression of tyrosinase or the TRP1 gene. The lignan also inhibited microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) induction via the IBMX-activated cAMP-responsive element-binding protein (CREB) pathway, thus preventing the Ser-133 phosphorylation of CREB. The researchers concluded that this molecular disruption of melanin production suggests the potential for the use of manassantin A as a skin depigmenting agent.¹⁰

That same year, another S. chinensis lignan gained interest. Yun et al. investigated the effects of the S. chinensis lignan component saucerneol D on melanin synthesis in cAMP-elevated melanocytes. They found that the lignan efficiently impeded melanin product in B16 melanoma cells stimulated with alpha-MSH or other cAMP elevators. Saucerneol D was also credited with down-regulating alpha-MSH–induced gene expression of tyrosinase at the transcription level in B16 cells, suppressing alpha-MSH–induced phosphorylation of CREB in the cells, and inhibiting MITF induction. The investigators concluded that their results point to the potential of the S. chinensis lignan saucerneol D for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.¹¹

In 2012, Chang et al. observed that an extract of S. chinensis and one of its constituent lignans, manassantin B, prevented melanosome transport in normal human melanocytes and Melan-a melanocytes, by interrupting the interaction between melanophilin and myosin Va. The investigators concluded that as a substance that can hinder melanosome transport, manassantin B displays potential for use as depigmenting product.¹²

The following year, Lee et al. studied the effects of S. chinensis extracts on the melanogenesis signaling pathway activated by alpha-MSH, finding dose-dependent inhibition without provoking cytotoxicity in B16F10 cells. Further, the team found evidence that the depigmenting activity exhibited by S. chinensis extracts may occur as a result of MITF and tyrosinase expression stemming from elevated activity of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK). They concluded that their results support further examination of S. chinensis for its potential to contribute to skin whitening.⁵
 

Conclusion

S. chinensis has been used for many years in traditional medicine, particularly in Asia, and this interesting botanical cosmeceutical ingredient is included in Asian skin care products. Multiple lignan constituents in this plant-derived ingredient appear to yield anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, and antitumor properties. Its inhibitory effects on melanin production and its antiaging abilities make it worthy of further study and consideration of inclusion in antiaging skin care products.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in the office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Zhang J et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2021 Oct 28;279:114400.

2. Yoo HJ et al. J Ethnopharmacol. 2008 Nov 20;120(2):282-6.

3. Kim BW et al. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2014 Dec 16;14:502.

4. Lee DH et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2013;36(5):772-9.

5. Lee YJ et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2012;35(8):1361-6.

6. Choi MS et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2008 Jan;31(1):51-6.

7. Park G et al. Biol Pharm Bull. 2013;36(7):1134-9.

8. Bae HB et al. Int Immunopharmacol. 2010 Sep;10(9):1022-8.

9. Seo CS et al. Phytother Res. 2009 Nov;23(11):1531-6.

10. Lee HD et al. Exp Dermatol. 2011 Sep;20(9):761-3.

11. Yun JY et al. Arch Pharm Res. 2011 Aug;34(8):1339-45.

12. Chang H et al. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2012 Nov;25(6):765-72.
 

Ulmus davidiana, commonly known as yugeunpi, has a long history of use in Korea in treating burns, eczema, frostbite, difficulties in urination, inflammation, and psoriasis,¹ and has also been used in China for some of these indications, including skin inflammation.^2,3 Currently, there are several areas in which the bioactivity of U. davidiana are under investigation, with numerous potential applications in dermatology. This column focuses briefly on the evidence supporting the traditional uses of the plant and potential new applications.

Anti-inflammatory activity

Eom and colleagues studied the potential of a polysaccharide extract from the root bark of U. davidiana to serve as a suitable cosmetic ingredient for conferring moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective activity. In this 2006 investigation, the composition of the polysaccharide extract was found to be primarily rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. The root extract exhibited a similar humectant moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid, the researchers reported. The U. davidiana root extract was also found to dose-dependently suppress prostaglandin E2. The inhibition of the release of interleukin-6 and IL-8 was also reported to be significant. The use of the U. davidiana extract also stimulated the recovery of human fibroblasts (two times that of positive control) exposed to UVA irradiation. The researchers suggested that their overall results point to the viability of U. davidiana root extract as a cosmetic agent ingredient to protect skin from UV exposure and the inflammation that follows.²

In 2013, Choi and colleagues found that a methanol extract of the stem and root barks of U. davidiana revealed anti-inflammatory properties, with activity attributed to two trihydroxy acids [then-new trihydroxy fatty acid, 9,12,13-trihydroxyoctadeca-10(Z),15(Z)-dienoic acid, and pinellic acid], both of which blocked prostaglandin D₂ production.⁴

That same year, Lyu and colleagues studied the antiallergic and anti-inflammatory effects of U. davidiana using a 1-fluoro-2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene (DNFB)–induced contact dermatitis mouse model. They found that treatment at a dose of 10 mg/mL successfully prevented skin lesions caused by consistent DNFB application. Further, the researchers observed that topically applied U. davidiana suppressed spongiosis and reduced total serum immunoglobulin and IgG2a levels. Overall, they concluded that the botanical treatment improved contact dermatitis in mice.¹

In 2019, So and colleagues studied the chemical components of U. davidiana root bark (isolating a chromane derivative and 22 known substances) and reported data supporting the traditional use of the root bark for gastroenteric and inflammatory indications.³

Bakuchiol [(1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-1-yl]phenol, a prenylated phenolic monoterpene found in the seeds and leaves of various plants, including U. davidiana, is used for its anti-inflammatory properties in traditional Korean medicine.⁵ Choi and colleagues determined that bakuchiol exhibited robust anti-inflammatory activity in a study of U. davidiana constituents, at least partially accounting for the anti-inflammatory functions of the plant.⁵

Antifungal activity

In 2021, Alishir and colleagues conducted a phytochemical analysis of the root bark extract of U. davidiana, resulting in the isolation of 10 substances including the novel coumarin glycoside derivative ulmusakidian. Some of the compounds exhibited antifungal activity against Cryptococcus neoformans, though none demonstrated antifungal activity against Candida albicans.⁶

Wound dressing

Ulmus_davidiana_canopy_web.jpg

Park and colleagues demonstrated in 2020 that superabsorbing hydrogel wound dressings composed of U. davidiana root bark powders, which exhibit gelling activity, performed effectively in speeding up wound closure and cutaneous regeneration in skin-wound mice models. These dressings also displayed thermal stability and superior mechanical properties to pullulan-only gel films. The researchers concluded that gel films composed of U. davidiana have potential to surpass the effectiveness of current products.⁷

Anti–hair loss activity

Early in 2022, Kwon and colleagues investigated the anti–hair loss mechanism of U. davidiana and determined that supercritical extraction-residues of U. davidiana significantly hinder the secretion of transforming growth factor–beta but dose dependently salvage insulinlike growth factor 1, and substantially decrease dihydrotestosterone synthesis. They concluded that these U. davidiana supercritical fluid extract residues have the potential to halt the loss of human hair.⁸

Photoprotective potential

Late in 2020, Her and colleagues reported on their development and analysis of a new distillate derived from a fermented mixture of nine anti-inflammatory herbs including U. davidiana. The investigators assessed the effects of the topically applied distillate on UVB-induced skin damage in Institute of Cancer Research mice, finding significant improvements in the dorsal skin photodamage. Application of the distillate also ameliorated collagen production impairment and diminished proinflammatory cytokine levels of tumor necrosis factor (TNF)–alpha and IL-1B. The researchers concluded that this anti-inflammatory herbal distillate, which includes U. davidiana, displays the potential to serve as a photoprotective agent.⁹

[embed:render:related:node:257902]

Antiaging activity

In 2011, Yang and colleagues set out to identify constituent substances of the root bark of U. davidiana that have the capacity to suppress cellular senescence in human fibroblasts and human umbilical vein endothelial cells. They isolated 22 compounds, of which epifriedelanol, ssioriside, and catechin-7-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside impeded adriamycin-induced cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts and friedelin, epifriedelanol, and catechin-7-O-beta-apiofuranoside in the umbilical vein endothelial cells. Epifriedelanol was the most potent of the substances, leading the researchers to conclude that this U. davidiana component can diminish cellular senescence in human primary cells and has the potential as an oral and/or topical antiaging agent.¹⁰

Also that year, in a study on the protective effects of U. davidiana on UVB-irradiated hairless mice, the authors claimed that an ethanol extract of U. davidiana significantly suppressed wrinkle development in mice chronically exposed to UVB.¹¹ This study showed that U. davidiana extract exerts antioxidant activity as evidenced by a decrease in MMP-1 activity. It also demonstrated antielastase activity. The treated mice showed a decrease in wrinkles as compared with water-treated mice.¹¹ Although this is just one study in mice, it may demonstrate a protective effect on elastic fibers on skin exposed to UVB light.

Late in 2020, Lee and colleagues reported on their study of the possible antiaging effects on the skin of (-)-phenolic compounds isolated from the root bark of U. davidiana. The function of collagenase MMP-1 was found to be inhibited by the isolate (-)-catechin, which also halted collagen degradation caused by TNF-alpha in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Further, the investigators demonstrated that the U. davidiana isolate (-)-catechin reduced the expression of proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-1B and IL-6. They concluded that the U. davidiana isolate exhibits the potential to combat intrinsic as well as extrinsic cutaneous aging.¹²

These findings are particularly intriguing. There is much overlap between intrinsic and extrinsic aging. If U. davidiana can keep collagen intact and inhibit cellular senescence, it may serve as an early intervention toward slowing or preventing skin aging.
 

Summary

Ulmus davidiana has a long history of use in Asia, but is new to the United States. Research has provided evidence of the anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties of this botanical cosmeceutical ingredient. Of greatest interest now, perhaps, is its potential to impede cellular senescence. Senescent cells release a multitude of inflammatory and other factors that hasten intrinsic aging. Blocking cellular senescence is an important approach to the prevention and treatment of skin aging.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in the office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Lyu J et al. J Pharmacopuncture. 2013 Jun;16(2):41-5.

2. Eom SY et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Sep-Oct;57(5):355-67.

3. So HM et al. Bioorg Chem. 2019 Oct;91:103145.

4. Choi HG et al. Phytother Res. 2013 Sep;27(9):1376-80.

5. Choi SY et al. J Med Food. 2010 Aug;13(4):1019-23.

6. Alishir A et al. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 2021 Mar 15;36:127828.

7. Park TH et al. Saudi Pharm J. 2020 Jul;28(7):791-802.

8. Kwon YE et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 19;27(4):1419.

9. Her Y et al. Molecules. 2020 Dec 29;26(1):124.

10. Yang HH et al. Planta Med. 2011 Mar;77(5):441-9.

11. Kim YO et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2011;19(6):508-13.
 

12. Lee S et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Oct 13;9(10):981.

Ulmus davidiana, commonly known as yugeunpi, has a long history of use in Korea in treating burns, eczema, frostbite, difficulties in urination, inflammation, and psoriasis,¹ and has also been used in China for some of these indications, including skin inflammation.^2,3 Currently, there are several areas in which the bioactivity of U. davidiana are under investigation, with numerous potential applications in dermatology. This column focuses briefly on the evidence supporting the traditional uses of the plant and potential new applications.

Anti-inflammatory activity

Eom and colleagues studied the potential of a polysaccharide extract from the root bark of U. davidiana to serve as a suitable cosmetic ingredient for conferring moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective activity. In this 2006 investigation, the composition of the polysaccharide extract was found to be primarily rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. The root extract exhibited a similar humectant moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid, the researchers reported. The U. davidiana root extract was also found to dose-dependently suppress prostaglandin E2. The inhibition of the release of interleukin-6 and IL-8 was also reported to be significant. The use of the U. davidiana extract also stimulated the recovery of human fibroblasts (two times that of positive control) exposed to UVA irradiation. The researchers suggested that their overall results point to the viability of U. davidiana root extract as a cosmetic agent ingredient to protect skin from UV exposure and the inflammation that follows.²

In 2013, Choi and colleagues found that a methanol extract of the stem and root barks of U. davidiana revealed anti-inflammatory properties, with activity attributed to two trihydroxy acids [then-new trihydroxy fatty acid, 9,12,13-trihydroxyoctadeca-10(Z),15(Z)-dienoic acid, and pinellic acid], both of which blocked prostaglandin D₂ production.⁴

That same year, Lyu and colleagues studied the antiallergic and anti-inflammatory effects of U. davidiana using a 1-fluoro-2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene (DNFB)–induced contact dermatitis mouse model. They found that treatment at a dose of 10 mg/mL successfully prevented skin lesions caused by consistent DNFB application. Further, the researchers observed that topically applied U. davidiana suppressed spongiosis and reduced total serum immunoglobulin and IgG2a levels. Overall, they concluded that the botanical treatment improved contact dermatitis in mice.¹

In 2019, So and colleagues studied the chemical components of U. davidiana root bark (isolating a chromane derivative and 22 known substances) and reported data supporting the traditional use of the root bark for gastroenteric and inflammatory indications.³

Bakuchiol [(1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-1-yl]phenol, a prenylated phenolic monoterpene found in the seeds and leaves of various plants, including U. davidiana, is used for its anti-inflammatory properties in traditional Korean medicine.⁵ Choi and colleagues determined that bakuchiol exhibited robust anti-inflammatory activity in a study of U. davidiana constituents, at least partially accounting for the anti-inflammatory functions of the plant.⁵

Antifungal activity

In 2021, Alishir and colleagues conducted a phytochemical analysis of the root bark extract of U. davidiana, resulting in the isolation of 10 substances including the novel coumarin glycoside derivative ulmusakidian. Some of the compounds exhibited antifungal activity against Cryptococcus neoformans, though none demonstrated antifungal activity against Candida albicans.⁶

Wound dressing

Ulmus_davidiana_canopy_web.jpg

Park and colleagues demonstrated in 2020 that superabsorbing hydrogel wound dressings composed of U. davidiana root bark powders, which exhibit gelling activity, performed effectively in speeding up wound closure and cutaneous regeneration in skin-wound mice models. These dressings also displayed thermal stability and superior mechanical properties to pullulan-only gel films. The researchers concluded that gel films composed of U. davidiana have potential to surpass the effectiveness of current products.⁷

Anti–hair loss activity

Early in 2022, Kwon and colleagues investigated the anti–hair loss mechanism of U. davidiana and determined that supercritical extraction-residues of U. davidiana significantly hinder the secretion of transforming growth factor–beta but dose dependently salvage insulinlike growth factor 1, and substantially decrease dihydrotestosterone synthesis. They concluded that these U. davidiana supercritical fluid extract residues have the potential to halt the loss of human hair.⁸

Photoprotective potential

Late in 2020, Her and colleagues reported on their development and analysis of a new distillate derived from a fermented mixture of nine anti-inflammatory herbs including U. davidiana. The investigators assessed the effects of the topically applied distillate on UVB-induced skin damage in Institute of Cancer Research mice, finding significant improvements in the dorsal skin photodamage. Application of the distillate also ameliorated collagen production impairment and diminished proinflammatory cytokine levels of tumor necrosis factor (TNF)–alpha and IL-1B. The researchers concluded that this anti-inflammatory herbal distillate, which includes U. davidiana, displays the potential to serve as a photoprotective agent.⁹

[embed:render:related:node:257902]

Antiaging activity

In 2011, Yang and colleagues set out to identify constituent substances of the root bark of U. davidiana that have the capacity to suppress cellular senescence in human fibroblasts and human umbilical vein endothelial cells. They isolated 22 compounds, of which epifriedelanol, ssioriside, and catechin-7-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside impeded adriamycin-induced cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts and friedelin, epifriedelanol, and catechin-7-O-beta-apiofuranoside in the umbilical vein endothelial cells. Epifriedelanol was the most potent of the substances, leading the researchers to conclude that this U. davidiana component can diminish cellular senescence in human primary cells and has the potential as an oral and/or topical antiaging agent.¹⁰

Also that year, in a study on the protective effects of U. davidiana on UVB-irradiated hairless mice, the authors claimed that an ethanol extract of U. davidiana significantly suppressed wrinkle development in mice chronically exposed to UVB.¹¹ This study showed that U. davidiana extract exerts antioxidant activity as evidenced by a decrease in MMP-1 activity. It also demonstrated antielastase activity. The treated mice showed a decrease in wrinkles as compared with water-treated mice.¹¹ Although this is just one study in mice, it may demonstrate a protective effect on elastic fibers on skin exposed to UVB light.

Late in 2020, Lee and colleagues reported on their study of the possible antiaging effects on the skin of (-)-phenolic compounds isolated from the root bark of U. davidiana. The function of collagenase MMP-1 was found to be inhibited by the isolate (-)-catechin, which also halted collagen degradation caused by TNF-alpha in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Further, the investigators demonstrated that the U. davidiana isolate (-)-catechin reduced the expression of proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-1B and IL-6. They concluded that the U. davidiana isolate exhibits the potential to combat intrinsic as well as extrinsic cutaneous aging.¹²

These findings are particularly intriguing. There is much overlap between intrinsic and extrinsic aging. If U. davidiana can keep collagen intact and inhibit cellular senescence, it may serve as an early intervention toward slowing or preventing skin aging.
 

Summary

Ulmus davidiana has a long history of use in Asia, but is new to the United States. Research has provided evidence of the anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties of this botanical cosmeceutical ingredient. Of greatest interest now, perhaps, is its potential to impede cellular senescence. Senescent cells release a multitude of inflammatory and other factors that hasten intrinsic aging. Blocking cellular senescence is an important approach to the prevention and treatment of skin aging.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in the office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Lyu J et al. J Pharmacopuncture. 2013 Jun;16(2):41-5.

2. Eom SY et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Sep-Oct;57(5):355-67.

3. So HM et al. Bioorg Chem. 2019 Oct;91:103145.

4. Choi HG et al. Phytother Res. 2013 Sep;27(9):1376-80.

5. Choi SY et al. J Med Food. 2010 Aug;13(4):1019-23.

6. Alishir A et al. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 2021 Mar 15;36:127828.

7. Park TH et al. Saudi Pharm J. 2020 Jul;28(7):791-802.

8. Kwon YE et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 19;27(4):1419.

9. Her Y et al. Molecules. 2020 Dec 29;26(1):124.

10. Yang HH et al. Planta Med. 2011 Mar;77(5):441-9.

11. Kim YO et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2011;19(6):508-13.
 

12. Lee S et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Oct 13;9(10):981.

Ulmus davidiana, commonly known as yugeunpi, has a long history of use in Korea in treating burns, eczema, frostbite, difficulties in urination, inflammation, and psoriasis,¹ and has also been used in China for some of these indications, including skin inflammation.^2,3 Currently, there are several areas in which the bioactivity of U. davidiana are under investigation, with numerous potential applications in dermatology. This column focuses briefly on the evidence supporting the traditional uses of the plant and potential new applications.

Anti-inflammatory activity

Eom and colleagues studied the potential of a polysaccharide extract from the root bark of U. davidiana to serve as a suitable cosmetic ingredient for conferring moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective activity. In this 2006 investigation, the composition of the polysaccharide extract was found to be primarily rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. The root extract exhibited a similar humectant moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid, the researchers reported. The U. davidiana root extract was also found to dose-dependently suppress prostaglandin E2. The inhibition of the release of interleukin-6 and IL-8 was also reported to be significant. The use of the U. davidiana extract also stimulated the recovery of human fibroblasts (two times that of positive control) exposed to UVA irradiation. The researchers suggested that their overall results point to the viability of U. davidiana root extract as a cosmetic agent ingredient to protect skin from UV exposure and the inflammation that follows.²

In 2013, Choi and colleagues found that a methanol extract of the stem and root barks of U. davidiana revealed anti-inflammatory properties, with activity attributed to two trihydroxy acids [then-new trihydroxy fatty acid, 9,12,13-trihydroxyoctadeca-10(Z),15(Z)-dienoic acid, and pinellic acid], both of which blocked prostaglandin D₂ production.⁴

That same year, Lyu and colleagues studied the antiallergic and anti-inflammatory effects of U. davidiana using a 1-fluoro-2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene (DNFB)–induced contact dermatitis mouse model. They found that treatment at a dose of 10 mg/mL successfully prevented skin lesions caused by consistent DNFB application. Further, the researchers observed that topically applied U. davidiana suppressed spongiosis and reduced total serum immunoglobulin and IgG2a levels. Overall, they concluded that the botanical treatment improved contact dermatitis in mice.¹

In 2019, So and colleagues studied the chemical components of U. davidiana root bark (isolating a chromane derivative and 22 known substances) and reported data supporting the traditional use of the root bark for gastroenteric and inflammatory indications.³

Bakuchiol [(1E,3S)-3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-1-yl]phenol, a prenylated phenolic monoterpene found in the seeds and leaves of various plants, including U. davidiana, is used for its anti-inflammatory properties in traditional Korean medicine.⁵ Choi and colleagues determined that bakuchiol exhibited robust anti-inflammatory activity in a study of U. davidiana constituents, at least partially accounting for the anti-inflammatory functions of the plant.⁵

Antifungal activity

In 2021, Alishir and colleagues conducted a phytochemical analysis of the root bark extract of U. davidiana, resulting in the isolation of 10 substances including the novel coumarin glycoside derivative ulmusakidian. Some of the compounds exhibited antifungal activity against Cryptococcus neoformans, though none demonstrated antifungal activity against Candida albicans.⁶

Wound dressing

Ulmus_davidiana_canopy_web.jpg

Park and colleagues demonstrated in 2020 that superabsorbing hydrogel wound dressings composed of U. davidiana root bark powders, which exhibit gelling activity, performed effectively in speeding up wound closure and cutaneous regeneration in skin-wound mice models. These dressings also displayed thermal stability and superior mechanical properties to pullulan-only gel films. The researchers concluded that gel films composed of U. davidiana have potential to surpass the effectiveness of current products.⁷

Anti–hair loss activity

Early in 2022, Kwon and colleagues investigated the anti–hair loss mechanism of U. davidiana and determined that supercritical extraction-residues of U. davidiana significantly hinder the secretion of transforming growth factor–beta but dose dependently salvage insulinlike growth factor 1, and substantially decrease dihydrotestosterone synthesis. They concluded that these U. davidiana supercritical fluid extract residues have the potential to halt the loss of human hair.⁸

Photoprotective potential

Late in 2020, Her and colleagues reported on their development and analysis of a new distillate derived from a fermented mixture of nine anti-inflammatory herbs including U. davidiana. The investigators assessed the effects of the topically applied distillate on UVB-induced skin damage in Institute of Cancer Research mice, finding significant improvements in the dorsal skin photodamage. Application of the distillate also ameliorated collagen production impairment and diminished proinflammatory cytokine levels of tumor necrosis factor (TNF)–alpha and IL-1B. The researchers concluded that this anti-inflammatory herbal distillate, which includes U. davidiana, displays the potential to serve as a photoprotective agent.⁹

[embed:render:related:node:257902]

Antiaging activity

In 2011, Yang and colleagues set out to identify constituent substances of the root bark of U. davidiana that have the capacity to suppress cellular senescence in human fibroblasts and human umbilical vein endothelial cells. They isolated 22 compounds, of which epifriedelanol, ssioriside, and catechin-7-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside impeded adriamycin-induced cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts and friedelin, epifriedelanol, and catechin-7-O-beta-apiofuranoside in the umbilical vein endothelial cells. Epifriedelanol was the most potent of the substances, leading the researchers to conclude that this U. davidiana component can diminish cellular senescence in human primary cells and has the potential as an oral and/or topical antiaging agent.¹⁰

Also that year, in a study on the protective effects of U. davidiana on UVB-irradiated hairless mice, the authors claimed that an ethanol extract of U. davidiana significantly suppressed wrinkle development in mice chronically exposed to UVB.¹¹ This study showed that U. davidiana extract exerts antioxidant activity as evidenced by a decrease in MMP-1 activity. It also demonstrated antielastase activity. The treated mice showed a decrease in wrinkles as compared with water-treated mice.¹¹ Although this is just one study in mice, it may demonstrate a protective effect on elastic fibers on skin exposed to UVB light.

Late in 2020, Lee and colleagues reported on their study of the possible antiaging effects on the skin of (-)-phenolic compounds isolated from the root bark of U. davidiana. The function of collagenase MMP-1 was found to be inhibited by the isolate (-)-catechin, which also halted collagen degradation caused by TNF-alpha in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Further, the investigators demonstrated that the U. davidiana isolate (-)-catechin reduced the expression of proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-1B and IL-6. They concluded that the U. davidiana isolate exhibits the potential to combat intrinsic as well as extrinsic cutaneous aging.¹²

These findings are particularly intriguing. There is much overlap between intrinsic and extrinsic aging. If U. davidiana can keep collagen intact and inhibit cellular senescence, it may serve as an early intervention toward slowing or preventing skin aging.
 

Summary

Ulmus davidiana has a long history of use in Asia, but is new to the United States. Research has provided evidence of the anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties of this botanical cosmeceutical ingredient. Of greatest interest now, perhaps, is its potential to impede cellular senescence. Senescent cells release a multitude of inflammatory and other factors that hasten intrinsic aging. Blocking cellular senescence is an important approach to the prevention and treatment of skin aging.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in the office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Lyu J et al. J Pharmacopuncture. 2013 Jun;16(2):41-5.

2. Eom SY et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Sep-Oct;57(5):355-67.

3. So HM et al. Bioorg Chem. 2019 Oct;91:103145.

4. Choi HG et al. Phytother Res. 2013 Sep;27(9):1376-80.

5. Choi SY et al. J Med Food. 2010 Aug;13(4):1019-23.

6. Alishir A et al. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 2021 Mar 15;36:127828.

7. Park TH et al. Saudi Pharm J. 2020 Jul;28(7):791-802.

8. Kwon YE et al. Molecules. 2022 Feb 19;27(4):1419.

9. Her Y et al. Molecules. 2020 Dec 29;26(1):124.

10. Yang HH et al. Planta Med. 2011 Mar;77(5):441-9.

11. Kim YO et al. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2011;19(6):508-13.
 

12. Lee S et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Oct 13;9(10):981.

A member of the Ericaceae family, bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) is native to northern Europe and North America, and its fruit is known to contain myriad polyphenols that display potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.^1,2 Also known as European blueberry or whortleberry, this perennial deciduous shrub is also one of the richest sources of the polyphenolic pigments anthocyanins.^3-5 Indeed, anthocyanins impart the blue/black color to bilberries and other berries and are thought to be the primary bioactive constituents of berries associated with numerous health benefits.^3,6 They are also known to confer anti-allergic, anticancer, and wound healing activity.⁴ Overall, bilberry has also been reported to exert anti-inflammatory, lipid-lowering, and antimicrobial activity.³ In this column, the focus will be on the chemical constituents and properties of V. myrtillus that indicate potential or applicability for skin care.

Active ingredients of bilberry

Bilberry seed oil contains unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, which exhibit anti-inflammatory activity and contribute to the suppression of tyrosinase. For instance, Ando et al. showed, in 1998, that linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids lighten UV-induced skin hyperpigmentation. Their in vitro experiments using cultured murine melanoma cells and in vivo study of the topical application of either acid to the UV-induced hyperpigmented dorsal skin of guinea pigs revealed pigment-lightening effects that they partly ascribed to inhibited melanin synthesis by active melanocytes and accelerated desquamation of epidermal melanin pigment.⁷

Bilberry_Vaccinium_myrtillus_web.jpg

A 2009 comparative study of the anthocyanin composition as well as antimicrobial and antioxidant activities delivered by bilberry and blueberry fruits and their skins by Burdulis et al. revealed robust functions in both fruits. Cyanidin was found to be an active anthocyanidin in bilberry. Cultivars of both fruits demonstrated antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, with bilberry fruit skin demonstrating potent antiradical activity.⁸

The anthocyanins of V. myrtillus are reputed to impart protection against cardiovascular disorders, age-induced oxidative stress, inflammatory responses, and various degenerative conditions, as well ameliorate neuronal and cognitive brain functions and ocular health.⁶

In 2012, Bornsek et al. demonstrated that bilberry (and blueberry) anthocyanins function as potent intracellular antioxidants, which may account for their noted health benefits despite relatively low bioavailability.⁹

Six years later, a chemical composition study of wild bilberry found in Montenegro, Brasanac-Vukanovic et al. determined that chlorogenic acid was the most prevalent phenolic constituent, followed by protocatechuic acid, with resveratrol, isoquercetin, quercetin, and hyperoside also found to be abundant. In vitro assays indicated significant antioxidant activity exhibited by these compounds.¹⁰

Activity against allergic contact dermatitis

Yamaura et al. used a mouse model, in 2011, to determine that the anthocyanins from a bilberry extract attenuated various symptoms of chronic allergic contact dermatitis, particularly alleviating pruritus.⁸ A year later, Yamaura et al. used a BALB/c mouse model of allergic contact dermatitis to compare the antipruritic effect of anthocyanin-rich quality-controlled bilberry extract and anthocyanidin-rich degraded extract. The investigators found that anthocyanins, but not anthocyanidins, derived from bilberry exert an antipruritic effect, likely through their inhibitory action on mast cell degranulation. They concluded that anthocyanin-rich bilberry extract could act as an effective oral supplement to treat pruritic symptoms of skin disorders such as chronic allergic contact dermatitis and atopic dermatitis.¹¹

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity

Bilberries, consumed since ancient times, are reputed to function as potent antioxidants because of a wide array of phenolic constituents, and this fruit is gaining interest for use in pharmaceuticals.¹²

In 2008, Svobodová et al. assessed possible UVA preventive properties of V. myrtillus fruit extract in a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), finding that pre- or posttreatment mitigated UVA-induced harm. They also observed a significant decrease in UVA-caused reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and the prevention or attenuation of UVA-stimulated peroxidation of membrane lipids. Intracellular glutathione was also protected. The investigators attributed the array of cytoprotective effects conferred by V. myrtillus extract primarily to its constituent anthocyanins.² A year later, they found that the phenolic fraction of V. myrtillus fruits inhibited UVB-induced damage to HaCaT keratinocytes in vitro.¹³

In 2014, Calò and Marabini used HaCaT keratinocytes to ascertain whether a water-soluble V. myrtillus extract could mitigate UVA- and UVB-induced damage. They found that the extract diminished UVB-induced cytotoxicity and genotoxicity at lower doses, decreasing lipid peroxidation but exerting no effect on reactive oxygen species generated by UVB. The extract attenuated genotoxicity induced by UVA as well as ROS and apoptosis. Overall, the investigators concluded that V. myrtillus extract demonstrated antioxidant activity, particularly against UVA exposure.¹⁴

Four years later, Bucci et al. developed nanoberries, an ultradeformable liposome carrying V. myrtillus ethanolic extract, and determined that the preparation could penetrate the stratum corneum safely and suggested potential for yielding protection against photodamage.¹⁵

Skin preparations

In 2021, Tadic et al. developed an oil-in-water (O/W) cream containing wild bilberry leaf extracts and seed oil. The leaves contained copious phenolic acids (particularly chlorogenic acid), flavonoids (especially isoquercetin), and resveratrol. The seed oil was rife with alpha-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids. The investigators conducted an in vivo study over 30 days in 25 healthy volunteers (20 women, 5 men; mean age 23.36 ± 0.64 years). They found that the O/W cream successfully increased stratum corneum hydration, enhanced skin barrier function, and maintained skin pH after topical application. The cream was also well tolerated. In vitro assays also indicated that the bilberry isolates displayed notable antioxidant capacity (stronger in the case of the leaves). Tadic et al. suggested that skin disorders characterized by oxidative stress and/or xerosis may be appropriate targets for topically applied bilberry cream.¹

Early in 2022, Ruscinc et al. reported on their efforts to incorporate V. myrtillus extract into a multifunctional sunscreen. In vitro and in vivo tests revealed that while sun protection factor was lowered in the presence of the extract, the samples were safe and photostable. The researchers concluded that further study is necessary to elucidate the effect of V. myrtillus extract on photoprotection.¹⁶

V. myrtillus has been consumed by human beings for many generations. Skin care formulations based on this ingredient have not been associated with adverse events. Notably, the Environmental Working Group has rated V. myrtillus (bilberry seed) oil as very safe.¹⁷

Summary

While research, particularly in the form of randomized controlled trials, is called for, bilberry appears to be a safe and effective ingredient that provides skin-protective antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. It is an ideal ingredient for use with skin lighteners because the fatty acids it contains have been shown to suppress tyrosinase. Currently, this botanical agent seems to be most suited for sensitive, aging skin and for skin with an uneven tone, particularly postinflammatory pigmentation and melasma.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Tadic VM et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021 Mar 16;10(3):465.

2. Svobodová A et al. Biofactors. 2008;33(4):249-66.

3. Chu WK et al. Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.), in Benzie IFF, Wachtel-Galor S, eds., “Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects,” 2nd ed. (Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press/Taylor & Francis, 2011, Chapter 4).

4. Yamaura K et al. Pharmacognosy Res. 2011 Jul;3(3):173-7.

5. Stefanescu BE et al. Molecules. 2019 May 29;24(11):2046.

6. Smeriglio A et al. Mini Rev Med Chem. 2014;14(7):567-84.

7. Ando H et al. Arch Dermatol Res. 1998 Jul;290(7):375-81.

8. Burdulis D et al. Acta Pol Pharm. 2009 Jul-Aug;66(4):399-408.

9. Bornsek SM et al. Food Chem. 2012 Oct 15;134(4):1878-84.

10. Brasanac-Vukanovic S et al. Molecules. 2018 Jul 26;23(8):1864.

11. Yamaura K et al. J Food Sci. 2012 Dec;77(12):H262-7.

12. Pires TCSP et al. Curr Pharm Des. 2020;26(16):1917-28.

13. Svobodová A et al. J Dermatol Sci. 2009 Dec;56(3):196-204.

14. Calò R, Marabini L. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Mar 5;132:27-35.

15. Bucci P et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Oct;17(5):889-99.

16. Ruscinc N et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Jan 13.

17. Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep website. Vaccinium Myrtillus Bilberry Seed Oil. Accessed October 18, 2022.

A member of the Ericaceae family, bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) is native to northern Europe and North America, and its fruit is known to contain myriad polyphenols that display potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.^1,2 Also known as European blueberry or whortleberry, this perennial deciduous shrub is also one of the richest sources of the polyphenolic pigments anthocyanins.^3-5 Indeed, anthocyanins impart the blue/black color to bilberries and other berries and are thought to be the primary bioactive constituents of berries associated with numerous health benefits.^3,6 They are also known to confer anti-allergic, anticancer, and wound healing activity.⁴ Overall, bilberry has also been reported to exert anti-inflammatory, lipid-lowering, and antimicrobial activity.³ In this column, the focus will be on the chemical constituents and properties of V. myrtillus that indicate potential or applicability for skin care.

Active ingredients of bilberry

Bilberry seed oil contains unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, which exhibit anti-inflammatory activity and contribute to the suppression of tyrosinase. For instance, Ando et al. showed, in 1998, that linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids lighten UV-induced skin hyperpigmentation. Their in vitro experiments using cultured murine melanoma cells and in vivo study of the topical application of either acid to the UV-induced hyperpigmented dorsal skin of guinea pigs revealed pigment-lightening effects that they partly ascribed to inhibited melanin synthesis by active melanocytes and accelerated desquamation of epidermal melanin pigment.⁷

Bilberry_Vaccinium_myrtillus_web.jpg

A 2009 comparative study of the anthocyanin composition as well as antimicrobial and antioxidant activities delivered by bilberry and blueberry fruits and their skins by Burdulis et al. revealed robust functions in both fruits. Cyanidin was found to be an active anthocyanidin in bilberry. Cultivars of both fruits demonstrated antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, with bilberry fruit skin demonstrating potent antiradical activity.⁸

The anthocyanins of V. myrtillus are reputed to impart protection against cardiovascular disorders, age-induced oxidative stress, inflammatory responses, and various degenerative conditions, as well ameliorate neuronal and cognitive brain functions and ocular health.⁶

In 2012, Bornsek et al. demonstrated that bilberry (and blueberry) anthocyanins function as potent intracellular antioxidants, which may account for their noted health benefits despite relatively low bioavailability.⁹

Six years later, a chemical composition study of wild bilberry found in Montenegro, Brasanac-Vukanovic et al. determined that chlorogenic acid was the most prevalent phenolic constituent, followed by protocatechuic acid, with resveratrol, isoquercetin, quercetin, and hyperoside also found to be abundant. In vitro assays indicated significant antioxidant activity exhibited by these compounds.¹⁰

Activity against allergic contact dermatitis

Yamaura et al. used a mouse model, in 2011, to determine that the anthocyanins from a bilberry extract attenuated various symptoms of chronic allergic contact dermatitis, particularly alleviating pruritus.⁸ A year later, Yamaura et al. used a BALB/c mouse model of allergic contact dermatitis to compare the antipruritic effect of anthocyanin-rich quality-controlled bilberry extract and anthocyanidin-rich degraded extract. The investigators found that anthocyanins, but not anthocyanidins, derived from bilberry exert an antipruritic effect, likely through their inhibitory action on mast cell degranulation. They concluded that anthocyanin-rich bilberry extract could act as an effective oral supplement to treat pruritic symptoms of skin disorders such as chronic allergic contact dermatitis and atopic dermatitis.¹¹

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity

Bilberries, consumed since ancient times, are reputed to function as potent antioxidants because of a wide array of phenolic constituents, and this fruit is gaining interest for use in pharmaceuticals.¹²

In 2008, Svobodová et al. assessed possible UVA preventive properties of V. myrtillus fruit extract in a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), finding that pre- or posttreatment mitigated UVA-induced harm. They also observed a significant decrease in UVA-caused reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and the prevention or attenuation of UVA-stimulated peroxidation of membrane lipids. Intracellular glutathione was also protected. The investigators attributed the array of cytoprotective effects conferred by V. myrtillus extract primarily to its constituent anthocyanins.² A year later, they found that the phenolic fraction of V. myrtillus fruits inhibited UVB-induced damage to HaCaT keratinocytes in vitro.¹³

In 2014, Calò and Marabini used HaCaT keratinocytes to ascertain whether a water-soluble V. myrtillus extract could mitigate UVA- and UVB-induced damage. They found that the extract diminished UVB-induced cytotoxicity and genotoxicity at lower doses, decreasing lipid peroxidation but exerting no effect on reactive oxygen species generated by UVB. The extract attenuated genotoxicity induced by UVA as well as ROS and apoptosis. Overall, the investigators concluded that V. myrtillus extract demonstrated antioxidant activity, particularly against UVA exposure.¹⁴

Four years later, Bucci et al. developed nanoberries, an ultradeformable liposome carrying V. myrtillus ethanolic extract, and determined that the preparation could penetrate the stratum corneum safely and suggested potential for yielding protection against photodamage.¹⁵

Skin preparations

In 2021, Tadic et al. developed an oil-in-water (O/W) cream containing wild bilberry leaf extracts and seed oil. The leaves contained copious phenolic acids (particularly chlorogenic acid), flavonoids (especially isoquercetin), and resveratrol. The seed oil was rife with alpha-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids. The investigators conducted an in vivo study over 30 days in 25 healthy volunteers (20 women, 5 men; mean age 23.36 ± 0.64 years). They found that the O/W cream successfully increased stratum corneum hydration, enhanced skin barrier function, and maintained skin pH after topical application. The cream was also well tolerated. In vitro assays also indicated that the bilberry isolates displayed notable antioxidant capacity (stronger in the case of the leaves). Tadic et al. suggested that skin disorders characterized by oxidative stress and/or xerosis may be appropriate targets for topically applied bilberry cream.¹

Early in 2022, Ruscinc et al. reported on their efforts to incorporate V. myrtillus extract into a multifunctional sunscreen. In vitro and in vivo tests revealed that while sun protection factor was lowered in the presence of the extract, the samples were safe and photostable. The researchers concluded that further study is necessary to elucidate the effect of V. myrtillus extract on photoprotection.¹⁶

V. myrtillus has been consumed by human beings for many generations. Skin care formulations based on this ingredient have not been associated with adverse events. Notably, the Environmental Working Group has rated V. myrtillus (bilberry seed) oil as very safe.¹⁷

Summary

While research, particularly in the form of randomized controlled trials, is called for, bilberry appears to be a safe and effective ingredient that provides skin-protective antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. It is an ideal ingredient for use with skin lighteners because the fatty acids it contains have been shown to suppress tyrosinase. Currently, this botanical agent seems to be most suited for sensitive, aging skin and for skin with an uneven tone, particularly postinflammatory pigmentation and melasma.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Tadic VM et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021 Mar 16;10(3):465.

2. Svobodová A et al. Biofactors. 2008;33(4):249-66.

3. Chu WK et al. Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.), in Benzie IFF, Wachtel-Galor S, eds., “Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects,” 2nd ed. (Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press/Taylor & Francis, 2011, Chapter 4).

4. Yamaura K et al. Pharmacognosy Res. 2011 Jul;3(3):173-7.

5. Stefanescu BE et al. Molecules. 2019 May 29;24(11):2046.

6. Smeriglio A et al. Mini Rev Med Chem. 2014;14(7):567-84.

7. Ando H et al. Arch Dermatol Res. 1998 Jul;290(7):375-81.

8. Burdulis D et al. Acta Pol Pharm. 2009 Jul-Aug;66(4):399-408.

9. Bornsek SM et al. Food Chem. 2012 Oct 15;134(4):1878-84.

10. Brasanac-Vukanovic S et al. Molecules. 2018 Jul 26;23(8):1864.

11. Yamaura K et al. J Food Sci. 2012 Dec;77(12):H262-7.

12. Pires TCSP et al. Curr Pharm Des. 2020;26(16):1917-28.

13. Svobodová A et al. J Dermatol Sci. 2009 Dec;56(3):196-204.

14. Calò R, Marabini L. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Mar 5;132:27-35.

15. Bucci P et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Oct;17(5):889-99.

16. Ruscinc N et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Jan 13.

17. Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep website. Vaccinium Myrtillus Bilberry Seed Oil. Accessed October 18, 2022.

A member of the Ericaceae family, bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) is native to northern Europe and North America, and its fruit is known to contain myriad polyphenols that display potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.^1,2 Also known as European blueberry or whortleberry, this perennial deciduous shrub is also one of the richest sources of the polyphenolic pigments anthocyanins.^3-5 Indeed, anthocyanins impart the blue/black color to bilberries and other berries and are thought to be the primary bioactive constituents of berries associated with numerous health benefits.^3,6 They are also known to confer anti-allergic, anticancer, and wound healing activity.⁴ Overall, bilberry has also been reported to exert anti-inflammatory, lipid-lowering, and antimicrobial activity.³ In this column, the focus will be on the chemical constituents and properties of V. myrtillus that indicate potential or applicability for skin care.

Active ingredients of bilberry

Bilberry seed oil contains unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, which exhibit anti-inflammatory activity and contribute to the suppression of tyrosinase. For instance, Ando et al. showed, in 1998, that linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids lighten UV-induced skin hyperpigmentation. Their in vitro experiments using cultured murine melanoma cells and in vivo study of the topical application of either acid to the UV-induced hyperpigmented dorsal skin of guinea pigs revealed pigment-lightening effects that they partly ascribed to inhibited melanin synthesis by active melanocytes and accelerated desquamation of epidermal melanin pigment.⁷

Bilberry_Vaccinium_myrtillus_web.jpg

A 2009 comparative study of the anthocyanin composition as well as antimicrobial and antioxidant activities delivered by bilberry and blueberry fruits and their skins by Burdulis et al. revealed robust functions in both fruits. Cyanidin was found to be an active anthocyanidin in bilberry. Cultivars of both fruits demonstrated antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, with bilberry fruit skin demonstrating potent antiradical activity.⁸

The anthocyanins of V. myrtillus are reputed to impart protection against cardiovascular disorders, age-induced oxidative stress, inflammatory responses, and various degenerative conditions, as well ameliorate neuronal and cognitive brain functions and ocular health.⁶

In 2012, Bornsek et al. demonstrated that bilberry (and blueberry) anthocyanins function as potent intracellular antioxidants, which may account for their noted health benefits despite relatively low bioavailability.⁹

Six years later, a chemical composition study of wild bilberry found in Montenegro, Brasanac-Vukanovic et al. determined that chlorogenic acid was the most prevalent phenolic constituent, followed by protocatechuic acid, with resveratrol, isoquercetin, quercetin, and hyperoside also found to be abundant. In vitro assays indicated significant antioxidant activity exhibited by these compounds.¹⁰

Activity against allergic contact dermatitis

Yamaura et al. used a mouse model, in 2011, to determine that the anthocyanins from a bilberry extract attenuated various symptoms of chronic allergic contact dermatitis, particularly alleviating pruritus.⁸ A year later, Yamaura et al. used a BALB/c mouse model of allergic contact dermatitis to compare the antipruritic effect of anthocyanin-rich quality-controlled bilberry extract and anthocyanidin-rich degraded extract. The investigators found that anthocyanins, but not anthocyanidins, derived from bilberry exert an antipruritic effect, likely through their inhibitory action on mast cell degranulation. They concluded that anthocyanin-rich bilberry extract could act as an effective oral supplement to treat pruritic symptoms of skin disorders such as chronic allergic contact dermatitis and atopic dermatitis.¹¹

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity

Bilberries, consumed since ancient times, are reputed to function as potent antioxidants because of a wide array of phenolic constituents, and this fruit is gaining interest for use in pharmaceuticals.¹²

In 2008, Svobodová et al. assessed possible UVA preventive properties of V. myrtillus fruit extract in a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), finding that pre- or posttreatment mitigated UVA-induced harm. They also observed a significant decrease in UVA-caused reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and the prevention or attenuation of UVA-stimulated peroxidation of membrane lipids. Intracellular glutathione was also protected. The investigators attributed the array of cytoprotective effects conferred by V. myrtillus extract primarily to its constituent anthocyanins.² A year later, they found that the phenolic fraction of V. myrtillus fruits inhibited UVB-induced damage to HaCaT keratinocytes in vitro.¹³

In 2014, Calò and Marabini used HaCaT keratinocytes to ascertain whether a water-soluble V. myrtillus extract could mitigate UVA- and UVB-induced damage. They found that the extract diminished UVB-induced cytotoxicity and genotoxicity at lower doses, decreasing lipid peroxidation but exerting no effect on reactive oxygen species generated by UVB. The extract attenuated genotoxicity induced by UVA as well as ROS and apoptosis. Overall, the investigators concluded that V. myrtillus extract demonstrated antioxidant activity, particularly against UVA exposure.¹⁴

Four years later, Bucci et al. developed nanoberries, an ultradeformable liposome carrying V. myrtillus ethanolic extract, and determined that the preparation could penetrate the stratum corneum safely and suggested potential for yielding protection against photodamage.¹⁵

Skin preparations

In 2021, Tadic et al. developed an oil-in-water (O/W) cream containing wild bilberry leaf extracts and seed oil. The leaves contained copious phenolic acids (particularly chlorogenic acid), flavonoids (especially isoquercetin), and resveratrol. The seed oil was rife with alpha-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids. The investigators conducted an in vivo study over 30 days in 25 healthy volunteers (20 women, 5 men; mean age 23.36 ± 0.64 years). They found that the O/W cream successfully increased stratum corneum hydration, enhanced skin barrier function, and maintained skin pH after topical application. The cream was also well tolerated. In vitro assays also indicated that the bilberry isolates displayed notable antioxidant capacity (stronger in the case of the leaves). Tadic et al. suggested that skin disorders characterized by oxidative stress and/or xerosis may be appropriate targets for topically applied bilberry cream.¹

Early in 2022, Ruscinc et al. reported on their efforts to incorporate V. myrtillus extract into a multifunctional sunscreen. In vitro and in vivo tests revealed that while sun protection factor was lowered in the presence of the extract, the samples were safe and photostable. The researchers concluded that further study is necessary to elucidate the effect of V. myrtillus extract on photoprotection.¹⁶

V. myrtillus has been consumed by human beings for many generations. Skin care formulations based on this ingredient have not been associated with adverse events. Notably, the Environmental Working Group has rated V. myrtillus (bilberry seed) oil as very safe.¹⁷

Summary

While research, particularly in the form of randomized controlled trials, is called for, bilberry appears to be a safe and effective ingredient that provides skin-protective antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. It is an ideal ingredient for use with skin lighteners because the fatty acids it contains have been shown to suppress tyrosinase. Currently, this botanical agent seems to be most suited for sensitive, aging skin and for skin with an uneven tone, particularly postinflammatory pigmentation and melasma.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology,” was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, an SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an ecommerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

References

1. Tadic VM et al. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021 Mar 16;10(3):465.

2. Svobodová A et al. Biofactors. 2008;33(4):249-66.

3. Chu WK et al. Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.), in Benzie IFF, Wachtel-Galor S, eds., “Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects,” 2nd ed. (Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press/Taylor & Francis, 2011, Chapter 4).

4. Yamaura K et al. Pharmacognosy Res. 2011 Jul;3(3):173-7.

5. Stefanescu BE et al. Molecules. 2019 May 29;24(11):2046.

6. Smeriglio A et al. Mini Rev Med Chem. 2014;14(7):567-84.

7. Ando H et al. Arch Dermatol Res. 1998 Jul;290(7):375-81.

8. Burdulis D et al. Acta Pol Pharm. 2009 Jul-Aug;66(4):399-408.

9. Bornsek SM et al. Food Chem. 2012 Oct 15;134(4):1878-84.

10. Brasanac-Vukanovic S et al. Molecules. 2018 Jul 26;23(8):1864.

11. Yamaura K et al. J Food Sci. 2012 Dec;77(12):H262-7.

12. Pires TCSP et al. Curr Pharm Des. 2020;26(16):1917-28.

13. Svobodová A et al. J Dermatol Sci. 2009 Dec;56(3):196-204.

14. Calò R, Marabini L. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Mar 5;132:27-35.

15. Bucci P et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Oct;17(5):889-99.

16. Ruscinc N et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Jan 13.

17. Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep website. Vaccinium Myrtillus Bilberry Seed Oil. Accessed October 18, 2022.