User login
Understanding the alpha hydroxy acids: Glycolic acid
. The extent of exfoliation with any of the alpha hydroxy acids depends on the type of acid, its concentration, and the pH of the preparations. Glycolic acid inhibits tyrosinase and chelates calcium ion concentration between the cells in the epidermis, which results in exfoliation of the skin.
Over-the-counter glycolic acid is available in concentrations up to 30%, and in professional products up to 70%. Clinically, glycolic acid above a concentration of 30% causes local burning, erythema, and dryness.
However, overuse of glycolic acid among consumers has increased the incidence of skin reactions and hyperpigmentation. Professional-grade products containing up to 70% glycolic acid are widely available on the Internet and without proper guidelines on use and sun avoidance, adverse events and long term scarring are becoming prevalent.
The overuse of acids and overexfoliation of the skin in patients with skin types I-IV is a growing problem as consumers are purchasing more “at-home peels,” peel pads, glow pads, and at-home exfoliation regimens. This overexfoliation of the skin and the resulting erythema induces rapid postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Consumers then often mistakenly try to self-treat the hyperpigmentation with increasing concentrations of acids, retinols, and/or hydroquinone on top of an already compromised skin barrier, further worsening the problem. In addition, these acids increase sensitivity to UV light and increase the risk of sunburns in all skin types.
Although glycolic acids are generally safe, standardized recommendations for their use in the skin care market are necessary. More is not always better. In our clinic, we do not treat patients with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation from acids or peels with more exfoliation. We focus on repairing the barrier for 1-3 months, which includes use of gentle cleansers and occlusive moisturizers, and avoidance of acids, retinols, or scrubs, and aggressive sun protection, and then using gentle fade ingredients – such as kojic acid, licorice root extract, and vitamin C – at low concentrations to slowly decrease melanin production. Barrier repair is the first and most important step and it is often overlooked when clinicians try to lighten the skin in haste.
Dr. Lily Talakoub and Dr. Naissan O. Wesley and are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. They had no relevant disclosures. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com.
. The extent of exfoliation with any of the alpha hydroxy acids depends on the type of acid, its concentration, and the pH of the preparations. Glycolic acid inhibits tyrosinase and chelates calcium ion concentration between the cells in the epidermis, which results in exfoliation of the skin.
Over-the-counter glycolic acid is available in concentrations up to 30%, and in professional products up to 70%. Clinically, glycolic acid above a concentration of 30% causes local burning, erythema, and dryness.
However, overuse of glycolic acid among consumers has increased the incidence of skin reactions and hyperpigmentation. Professional-grade products containing up to 70% glycolic acid are widely available on the Internet and without proper guidelines on use and sun avoidance, adverse events and long term scarring are becoming prevalent.
The overuse of acids and overexfoliation of the skin in patients with skin types I-IV is a growing problem as consumers are purchasing more “at-home peels,” peel pads, glow pads, and at-home exfoliation regimens. This overexfoliation of the skin and the resulting erythema induces rapid postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Consumers then often mistakenly try to self-treat the hyperpigmentation with increasing concentrations of acids, retinols, and/or hydroquinone on top of an already compromised skin barrier, further worsening the problem. In addition, these acids increase sensitivity to UV light and increase the risk of sunburns in all skin types.
Although glycolic acids are generally safe, standardized recommendations for their use in the skin care market are necessary. More is not always better. In our clinic, we do not treat patients with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation from acids or peels with more exfoliation. We focus on repairing the barrier for 1-3 months, which includes use of gentle cleansers and occlusive moisturizers, and avoidance of acids, retinols, or scrubs, and aggressive sun protection, and then using gentle fade ingredients – such as kojic acid, licorice root extract, and vitamin C – at low concentrations to slowly decrease melanin production. Barrier repair is the first and most important step and it is often overlooked when clinicians try to lighten the skin in haste.
Dr. Lily Talakoub and Dr. Naissan O. Wesley and are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. They had no relevant disclosures. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com.
. The extent of exfoliation with any of the alpha hydroxy acids depends on the type of acid, its concentration, and the pH of the preparations. Glycolic acid inhibits tyrosinase and chelates calcium ion concentration between the cells in the epidermis, which results in exfoliation of the skin.
Over-the-counter glycolic acid is available in concentrations up to 30%, and in professional products up to 70%. Clinically, glycolic acid above a concentration of 30% causes local burning, erythema, and dryness.
However, overuse of glycolic acid among consumers has increased the incidence of skin reactions and hyperpigmentation. Professional-grade products containing up to 70% glycolic acid are widely available on the Internet and without proper guidelines on use and sun avoidance, adverse events and long term scarring are becoming prevalent.
The overuse of acids and overexfoliation of the skin in patients with skin types I-IV is a growing problem as consumers are purchasing more “at-home peels,” peel pads, glow pads, and at-home exfoliation regimens. This overexfoliation of the skin and the resulting erythema induces rapid postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Consumers then often mistakenly try to self-treat the hyperpigmentation with increasing concentrations of acids, retinols, and/or hydroquinone on top of an already compromised skin barrier, further worsening the problem. In addition, these acids increase sensitivity to UV light and increase the risk of sunburns in all skin types.
Although glycolic acids are generally safe, standardized recommendations for their use in the skin care market are necessary. More is not always better. In our clinic, we do not treat patients with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation from acids or peels with more exfoliation. We focus on repairing the barrier for 1-3 months, which includes use of gentle cleansers and occlusive moisturizers, and avoidance of acids, retinols, or scrubs, and aggressive sun protection, and then using gentle fade ingredients – such as kojic acid, licorice root extract, and vitamin C – at low concentrations to slowly decrease melanin production. Barrier repair is the first and most important step and it is often overlooked when clinicians try to lighten the skin in haste.
Dr. Lily Talakoub and Dr. Naissan O. Wesley and are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. They had no relevant disclosures. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com.
Goodbye, OTC hydroquinone
In 1972, an over-the-counter drug review process was established by the Food and Drug Administration to regulate the safety and efficacy of over-the-counter (OTC) drugs. This created a book or “monograph” for each medication category that describes the active ingredients, indications, doses, route of administration, testing, and labeling. If a drug meets the criteria in its therapeutic category, it does not have to undergo an FDA review before being marketed to consumers.
As part of this process, drugs are classified into one of three categories: category I: generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) and not misbranded; category II: not GRASE; category III: lacking sufficient data on safety and efficacy to permit classification. This methodology was outdated and made it difficult under the old guidelines to make changes to medications in the evolving world of drug development. Some categories of OTC drugs, including hand sanitizers, hydroquinone, and sunscreens, have been marketed for years without a final monograph.
The signing of the “Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security” (CARES) Act in March 2020 included reforms in the FDA monograph process for OTC medications. Under this proceeding, a final monograph determination was made for all OTC categories. While drugs in category I and some in category III may remain on the market, if certain specifications are met, category II drugs had to be removed within 180 days of the enactment of the CARES Act.
Hydroquinone was one of those that fell victim to the ban. This ban is similar to hydroquinone bans in other places, including Europe. However, for manufacturers, this issue was under the radar and packaged in a seemingly irrelevant piece of legislation.
Among dermatologists, there is no consensus as to whether 2% hydroquinone is safe or not. However, the unmonitored use and overuse that is common for this type of medication has led to heightened safety concerns. Common side effects of hydroquinone include irritant and allergic contact dermatitis; the most difficult to treat side effect with long-term use is ochronosis. But there are no reported cancer data in humans with the use of topical hydroquinone as previously thought. Hydroquinone used short term is a very safe and effective treatment for hard to treat hyperpigmentation and is often necessary when other topicals are ineffective, particularly in our patients with skin of color.
The bigger problem however is the legislative process involved, as exemplified by this ban, which only came to light because of the CARES act.
Dr. Talakoub and Naissan O. Wesley, MD, are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
In 1972, an over-the-counter drug review process was established by the Food and Drug Administration to regulate the safety and efficacy of over-the-counter (OTC) drugs. This created a book or “monograph” for each medication category that describes the active ingredients, indications, doses, route of administration, testing, and labeling. If a drug meets the criteria in its therapeutic category, it does not have to undergo an FDA review before being marketed to consumers.
As part of this process, drugs are classified into one of three categories: category I: generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) and not misbranded; category II: not GRASE; category III: lacking sufficient data on safety and efficacy to permit classification. This methodology was outdated and made it difficult under the old guidelines to make changes to medications in the evolving world of drug development. Some categories of OTC drugs, including hand sanitizers, hydroquinone, and sunscreens, have been marketed for years without a final monograph.
The signing of the “Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security” (CARES) Act in March 2020 included reforms in the FDA monograph process for OTC medications. Under this proceeding, a final monograph determination was made for all OTC categories. While drugs in category I and some in category III may remain on the market, if certain specifications are met, category II drugs had to be removed within 180 days of the enactment of the CARES Act.
Hydroquinone was one of those that fell victim to the ban. This ban is similar to hydroquinone bans in other places, including Europe. However, for manufacturers, this issue was under the radar and packaged in a seemingly irrelevant piece of legislation.
Among dermatologists, there is no consensus as to whether 2% hydroquinone is safe or not. However, the unmonitored use and overuse that is common for this type of medication has led to heightened safety concerns. Common side effects of hydroquinone include irritant and allergic contact dermatitis; the most difficult to treat side effect with long-term use is ochronosis. But there are no reported cancer data in humans with the use of topical hydroquinone as previously thought. Hydroquinone used short term is a very safe and effective treatment for hard to treat hyperpigmentation and is often necessary when other topicals are ineffective, particularly in our patients with skin of color.
The bigger problem however is the legislative process involved, as exemplified by this ban, which only came to light because of the CARES act.
Dr. Talakoub and Naissan O. Wesley, MD, are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
In 1972, an over-the-counter drug review process was established by the Food and Drug Administration to regulate the safety and efficacy of over-the-counter (OTC) drugs. This created a book or “monograph” for each medication category that describes the active ingredients, indications, doses, route of administration, testing, and labeling. If a drug meets the criteria in its therapeutic category, it does not have to undergo an FDA review before being marketed to consumers.
As part of this process, drugs are classified into one of three categories: category I: generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) and not misbranded; category II: not GRASE; category III: lacking sufficient data on safety and efficacy to permit classification. This methodology was outdated and made it difficult under the old guidelines to make changes to medications in the evolving world of drug development. Some categories of OTC drugs, including hand sanitizers, hydroquinone, and sunscreens, have been marketed for years without a final monograph.
The signing of the “Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security” (CARES) Act in March 2020 included reforms in the FDA monograph process for OTC medications. Under this proceeding, a final monograph determination was made for all OTC categories. While drugs in category I and some in category III may remain on the market, if certain specifications are met, category II drugs had to be removed within 180 days of the enactment of the CARES Act.
Hydroquinone was one of those that fell victim to the ban. This ban is similar to hydroquinone bans in other places, including Europe. However, for manufacturers, this issue was under the radar and packaged in a seemingly irrelevant piece of legislation.
Among dermatologists, there is no consensus as to whether 2% hydroquinone is safe or not. However, the unmonitored use and overuse that is common for this type of medication has led to heightened safety concerns. Common side effects of hydroquinone include irritant and allergic contact dermatitis; the most difficult to treat side effect with long-term use is ochronosis. But there are no reported cancer data in humans with the use of topical hydroquinone as previously thought. Hydroquinone used short term is a very safe and effective treatment for hard to treat hyperpigmentation and is often necessary when other topicals are ineffective, particularly in our patients with skin of color.
The bigger problem however is the legislative process involved, as exemplified by this ban, which only came to light because of the CARES act.
Dr. Talakoub and Naissan O. Wesley, MD, are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
The Zoom effect on cosmetic procedures
As clinics were allowed to reopen under local government guidelines several months into the COVID-19 pandemic, many cosmetic dermatologists and aesthetic surgeons had no idea what our schedules would be like. .
While scheduled appointments, no shows, cancellations, and rebookings seem to wax and wane with surges in COVID-19 cases locally and with associated media coverage, there appear to be several reasons why demand has increased. Because people are wearing masks, they can easily hide signs of recovery or “something new” in their appearance. Patients aren’t typically around as many people and have more time to recover in private. There is also the positive effect a procedure can have on mood and self-esteem during what has been a difficult year. And people have had more time to read beauty and self-care articles, as well as advertisements for skin and hair care on social media.
The Zoom effect
One reason I did not anticipate is the Zoom effect. I don’t intend to single out Zoom – as there are other videoconferencing options available – but it seems to be the one patients bring up the most. Virtual meetings, conferences, and social events, and video calls with loved ones have become a part of daily routines for many, who are now seeing themselves on camera during these interactions as they never did before. It has created a strange new phenomenon.
Patients have literally said to me “I don’t like the way I look on Zoom” and ask about options to improve what they are seeing. They are often surprised to see that their appearance on virtual meetings, for example, does not reflect the way they feel inside, or how they think they should look. Even medical dermatology patients who have had no interest in cosmetic procedures previously have been coming in for this specific reason – both female and male patients.
Since photography is a hobby, I counsel patients that lighting and shadows play a huge role in how they appear on screen. Depending on the lighting, camera angle, and camera quality, suboptimal lighting can highlight shadows and wrinkles not normally seen in natural or optimal light. In a recent interview on KCRW, the Los Angeles NPR affiliate station, the founding director of the Virtual Human Interaction Lab (VHIL) at Stanford University highlighted work on the effect that Zoom and virtual interactions have had on people during the COVID-19 pandemic. He notes that during a normal in-person meeting or conference, attention is usually on the person speaking, but now with everyone on camera at once, people have the pressure and subsequent feelings of exhaustion (a different type of exhaustion than being there in person) of being seen at all times. To address “Zoom Fatigue,” the VHIL’s recommendations include turning off the camera periodically, or changing the settings so your image is not seen. Another option is to use background filters, including some face filters (a cat for example), which Zoom has created to ease some of the stress of these meetings.
Back to the actual in-person office visits: In my experience, all cosmetic procedures across the board, including injectables, skin resurfacing, and lasers have increased. In Dr. Talakoub’s practice, she has noted a tenfold increase in the use of deoxycholic acid (Kybella) and neck procedures attributed to the unflattering angle of the neck as people look down on their computer screens.There has also been an increase in the use of other injectables, such as Botox of the glabella to address scowling at the screen, facial fillers to address the dark shadows cast on the tear troughs, and lip fillers (noted to be 10-20 times higher) because of masks that can hide healing downtime. Similarly, increased use of Coolsculpting has been noted, as some patients have the flexibility of being able to take their Zoom meetings during the procedure, when they otherwise may not have had the time. Some patients have told me that the appointment with me is the only visit they’ve made outside of their home during the pandemic. Once the consultations or procedures are completed, patients often show gratitude and their self-esteem is increased. Some patients have said they even feel better and more productive at work, or note more positive interactions with their loved ones after the work has been done, likely because they feel better about themselves.There have been discussions about the benefits people have in being able to use Zoom and other videoconferencing platforms to gather and create, as well as see people and communicate in a way that can sometimes be more effective than a phone call. As physicians, these virtual tools have also allowed us to provide telehealth visits, a flexible, safe, and comfortable option for both the patient and practitioner. If done in a safe place, the ability to see each other without wearing a mask is also a nice treat.
The gratification and improvement in psyche that patients experience after our visits during this unprecedented, challenging time has been evident. Perhaps it’s the social interaction with their trusted physician, the outcome of the procedure itself, or a combination of both, which has a net positive effect on the physician-patient relationship.
While cosmetic procedures are appropriately deemed elective by hospital facilities and practitioners and should be of lower importance with regard to use of available facilities and PPE than those related to COVID-19 and other life-threatening scenarios, the longevity of this pandemic has surprisingly highlighted the numerous ways in which cosmetic visits can help patients, and the importance of being able to be there for patients – in a safe manner for all involved.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
As clinics were allowed to reopen under local government guidelines several months into the COVID-19 pandemic, many cosmetic dermatologists and aesthetic surgeons had no idea what our schedules would be like. .
While scheduled appointments, no shows, cancellations, and rebookings seem to wax and wane with surges in COVID-19 cases locally and with associated media coverage, there appear to be several reasons why demand has increased. Because people are wearing masks, they can easily hide signs of recovery or “something new” in their appearance. Patients aren’t typically around as many people and have more time to recover in private. There is also the positive effect a procedure can have on mood and self-esteem during what has been a difficult year. And people have had more time to read beauty and self-care articles, as well as advertisements for skin and hair care on social media.
The Zoom effect
One reason I did not anticipate is the Zoom effect. I don’t intend to single out Zoom – as there are other videoconferencing options available – but it seems to be the one patients bring up the most. Virtual meetings, conferences, and social events, and video calls with loved ones have become a part of daily routines for many, who are now seeing themselves on camera during these interactions as they never did before. It has created a strange new phenomenon.
Patients have literally said to me “I don’t like the way I look on Zoom” and ask about options to improve what they are seeing. They are often surprised to see that their appearance on virtual meetings, for example, does not reflect the way they feel inside, or how they think they should look. Even medical dermatology patients who have had no interest in cosmetic procedures previously have been coming in for this specific reason – both female and male patients.
Since photography is a hobby, I counsel patients that lighting and shadows play a huge role in how they appear on screen. Depending on the lighting, camera angle, and camera quality, suboptimal lighting can highlight shadows and wrinkles not normally seen in natural or optimal light. In a recent interview on KCRW, the Los Angeles NPR affiliate station, the founding director of the Virtual Human Interaction Lab (VHIL) at Stanford University highlighted work on the effect that Zoom and virtual interactions have had on people during the COVID-19 pandemic. He notes that during a normal in-person meeting or conference, attention is usually on the person speaking, but now with everyone on camera at once, people have the pressure and subsequent feelings of exhaustion (a different type of exhaustion than being there in person) of being seen at all times. To address “Zoom Fatigue,” the VHIL’s recommendations include turning off the camera periodically, or changing the settings so your image is not seen. Another option is to use background filters, including some face filters (a cat for example), which Zoom has created to ease some of the stress of these meetings.
Back to the actual in-person office visits: In my experience, all cosmetic procedures across the board, including injectables, skin resurfacing, and lasers have increased. In Dr. Talakoub’s practice, she has noted a tenfold increase in the use of deoxycholic acid (Kybella) and neck procedures attributed to the unflattering angle of the neck as people look down on their computer screens.There has also been an increase in the use of other injectables, such as Botox of the glabella to address scowling at the screen, facial fillers to address the dark shadows cast on the tear troughs, and lip fillers (noted to be 10-20 times higher) because of masks that can hide healing downtime. Similarly, increased use of Coolsculpting has been noted, as some patients have the flexibility of being able to take their Zoom meetings during the procedure, when they otherwise may not have had the time. Some patients have told me that the appointment with me is the only visit they’ve made outside of their home during the pandemic. Once the consultations or procedures are completed, patients often show gratitude and their self-esteem is increased. Some patients have said they even feel better and more productive at work, or note more positive interactions with their loved ones after the work has been done, likely because they feel better about themselves.There have been discussions about the benefits people have in being able to use Zoom and other videoconferencing platforms to gather and create, as well as see people and communicate in a way that can sometimes be more effective than a phone call. As physicians, these virtual tools have also allowed us to provide telehealth visits, a flexible, safe, and comfortable option for both the patient and practitioner. If done in a safe place, the ability to see each other without wearing a mask is also a nice treat.
The gratification and improvement in psyche that patients experience after our visits during this unprecedented, challenging time has been evident. Perhaps it’s the social interaction with their trusted physician, the outcome of the procedure itself, or a combination of both, which has a net positive effect on the physician-patient relationship.
While cosmetic procedures are appropriately deemed elective by hospital facilities and practitioners and should be of lower importance with regard to use of available facilities and PPE than those related to COVID-19 and other life-threatening scenarios, the longevity of this pandemic has surprisingly highlighted the numerous ways in which cosmetic visits can help patients, and the importance of being able to be there for patients – in a safe manner for all involved.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
As clinics were allowed to reopen under local government guidelines several months into the COVID-19 pandemic, many cosmetic dermatologists and aesthetic surgeons had no idea what our schedules would be like. .
While scheduled appointments, no shows, cancellations, and rebookings seem to wax and wane with surges in COVID-19 cases locally and with associated media coverage, there appear to be several reasons why demand has increased. Because people are wearing masks, they can easily hide signs of recovery or “something new” in their appearance. Patients aren’t typically around as many people and have more time to recover in private. There is also the positive effect a procedure can have on mood and self-esteem during what has been a difficult year. And people have had more time to read beauty and self-care articles, as well as advertisements for skin and hair care on social media.
The Zoom effect
One reason I did not anticipate is the Zoom effect. I don’t intend to single out Zoom – as there are other videoconferencing options available – but it seems to be the one patients bring up the most. Virtual meetings, conferences, and social events, and video calls with loved ones have become a part of daily routines for many, who are now seeing themselves on camera during these interactions as they never did before. It has created a strange new phenomenon.
Patients have literally said to me “I don’t like the way I look on Zoom” and ask about options to improve what they are seeing. They are often surprised to see that their appearance on virtual meetings, for example, does not reflect the way they feel inside, or how they think they should look. Even medical dermatology patients who have had no interest in cosmetic procedures previously have been coming in for this specific reason – both female and male patients.
Since photography is a hobby, I counsel patients that lighting and shadows play a huge role in how they appear on screen. Depending on the lighting, camera angle, and camera quality, suboptimal lighting can highlight shadows and wrinkles not normally seen in natural or optimal light. In a recent interview on KCRW, the Los Angeles NPR affiliate station, the founding director of the Virtual Human Interaction Lab (VHIL) at Stanford University highlighted work on the effect that Zoom and virtual interactions have had on people during the COVID-19 pandemic. He notes that during a normal in-person meeting or conference, attention is usually on the person speaking, but now with everyone on camera at once, people have the pressure and subsequent feelings of exhaustion (a different type of exhaustion than being there in person) of being seen at all times. To address “Zoom Fatigue,” the VHIL’s recommendations include turning off the camera periodically, or changing the settings so your image is not seen. Another option is to use background filters, including some face filters (a cat for example), which Zoom has created to ease some of the stress of these meetings.
Back to the actual in-person office visits: In my experience, all cosmetic procedures across the board, including injectables, skin resurfacing, and lasers have increased. In Dr. Talakoub’s practice, she has noted a tenfold increase in the use of deoxycholic acid (Kybella) and neck procedures attributed to the unflattering angle of the neck as people look down on their computer screens.There has also been an increase in the use of other injectables, such as Botox of the glabella to address scowling at the screen, facial fillers to address the dark shadows cast on the tear troughs, and lip fillers (noted to be 10-20 times higher) because of masks that can hide healing downtime. Similarly, increased use of Coolsculpting has been noted, as some patients have the flexibility of being able to take their Zoom meetings during the procedure, when they otherwise may not have had the time. Some patients have told me that the appointment with me is the only visit they’ve made outside of their home during the pandemic. Once the consultations or procedures are completed, patients often show gratitude and their self-esteem is increased. Some patients have said they even feel better and more productive at work, or note more positive interactions with their loved ones after the work has been done, likely because they feel better about themselves.There have been discussions about the benefits people have in being able to use Zoom and other videoconferencing platforms to gather and create, as well as see people and communicate in a way that can sometimes be more effective than a phone call. As physicians, these virtual tools have also allowed us to provide telehealth visits, a flexible, safe, and comfortable option for both the patient and practitioner. If done in a safe place, the ability to see each other without wearing a mask is also a nice treat.
The gratification and improvement in psyche that patients experience after our visits during this unprecedented, challenging time has been evident. Perhaps it’s the social interaction with their trusted physician, the outcome of the procedure itself, or a combination of both, which has a net positive effect on the physician-patient relationship.
While cosmetic procedures are appropriately deemed elective by hospital facilities and practitioners and should be of lower importance with regard to use of available facilities and PPE than those related to COVID-19 and other life-threatening scenarios, the longevity of this pandemic has surprisingly highlighted the numerous ways in which cosmetic visits can help patients, and the importance of being able to be there for patients – in a safe manner for all involved.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
Treatment of horizontal neck lines
The interplay of the neck subunits, as outlined in the recent article by Friedman and colleagues, requires multiple combination treatments, including fat removal, augmentation of deficient bony prominences, relaxation of hyperkinetic muscles, tissue tightening, suture anchoring, skin resurfacing, and treatment of dyschromia.
Horizontal neck lines are linear etched lines or furrows that commonly appear at a young age and are not caused by the aging process. The anatomy of the neck and the manner in which it bends contributes to their development at an early age. It is hypothesized that variable adipose tissue thickness and fibromuscular bands contribute to deepening of these lines in overweight patients. The widespread use of cell phones, laptops, and tablets has increased their prevalence and this has become one of the most common concerns of patients aged under 30 years in my clinic.
Various treatments have been recommended for neck rejuvenation, including hyaluronic acid and dilute calcium hydroxylapatite. In my experience, neither of these treatments adequately resolves the horizontal neck lines, and more importantly, prevents them from reoccurring. In addition, given the variability in skin and adipose thickness in the anterior neck, side effects including lumps, irregular correction, and the Tyndall effect, are common, particularly with incorrect choice of filler and injection depth.
The fibromuscular bands along the transverse neck lines pose one of the complexities in treatment with injectable filler. I have had significant improvement in the aesthetic outcome of my patients by using subcision along the transverse bands extensively prior to injection with hyaluronic acid fillers. The subcision is done with a 27-gauge needle to release the fibrous bands that tether the tissue down. If a patient has excess adipose tissue on either side of the bands, injectable fillers often do not improve the appearance of the lines and can make the neck appear heavier. The use of subcision followed by one to six treatments of deoxycholic acid in the adjacent adipose tissue prior to injection with a filler will help even out the contour of the neck, decrease adipose tissue bulges, release the fibrous bands, and fill the lines properly.
Working from home and on handheld devices has increased the appearance of neck lines in young populations. Despite the vast array of treatments in the aging neck, none have been very successful for this particular problem in the young. We need an improved understanding of these lines and better studies to investigate treatment options and long-term correction.
References:
Friedman O et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Feb;20(2):569-76.
Brandt FS and Boker A. Dermatol Clin. 2004 Apr;22(2):159-66.
Tseng F and Yu H. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2019 Aug 19;7(8):e2366.
Dibernardo BE. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2013 Apr;15(2):56-64.
Jones D et al. Dermatol Surg. 2016 Oct;4 Suppl 1(Suppl 1):S235-42.
Lee SK and Kim HS. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Aug;17(4):590-5.
Chao YY et al. Dermatol Surg. 2011 Oct;37(10):1542-5.
Han TY et al. Dermatol Surg. 2011 Sep;37(9):1291-6.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
The interplay of the neck subunits, as outlined in the recent article by Friedman and colleagues, requires multiple combination treatments, including fat removal, augmentation of deficient bony prominences, relaxation of hyperkinetic muscles, tissue tightening, suture anchoring, skin resurfacing, and treatment of dyschromia.
Horizontal neck lines are linear etched lines or furrows that commonly appear at a young age and are not caused by the aging process. The anatomy of the neck and the manner in which it bends contributes to their development at an early age. It is hypothesized that variable adipose tissue thickness and fibromuscular bands contribute to deepening of these lines in overweight patients. The widespread use of cell phones, laptops, and tablets has increased their prevalence and this has become one of the most common concerns of patients aged under 30 years in my clinic.
Various treatments have been recommended for neck rejuvenation, including hyaluronic acid and dilute calcium hydroxylapatite. In my experience, neither of these treatments adequately resolves the horizontal neck lines, and more importantly, prevents them from reoccurring. In addition, given the variability in skin and adipose thickness in the anterior neck, side effects including lumps, irregular correction, and the Tyndall effect, are common, particularly with incorrect choice of filler and injection depth.
The fibromuscular bands along the transverse neck lines pose one of the complexities in treatment with injectable filler. I have had significant improvement in the aesthetic outcome of my patients by using subcision along the transverse bands extensively prior to injection with hyaluronic acid fillers. The subcision is done with a 27-gauge needle to release the fibrous bands that tether the tissue down. If a patient has excess adipose tissue on either side of the bands, injectable fillers often do not improve the appearance of the lines and can make the neck appear heavier. The use of subcision followed by one to six treatments of deoxycholic acid in the adjacent adipose tissue prior to injection with a filler will help even out the contour of the neck, decrease adipose tissue bulges, release the fibrous bands, and fill the lines properly.
Working from home and on handheld devices has increased the appearance of neck lines in young populations. Despite the vast array of treatments in the aging neck, none have been very successful for this particular problem in the young. We need an improved understanding of these lines and better studies to investigate treatment options and long-term correction.
References:
Friedman O et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Feb;20(2):569-76.
Brandt FS and Boker A. Dermatol Clin. 2004 Apr;22(2):159-66.
Tseng F and Yu H. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2019 Aug 19;7(8):e2366.
Dibernardo BE. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2013 Apr;15(2):56-64.
Jones D et al. Dermatol Surg. 2016 Oct;4 Suppl 1(Suppl 1):S235-42.
Lee SK and Kim HS. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Aug;17(4):590-5.
Chao YY et al. Dermatol Surg. 2011 Oct;37(10):1542-5.
Han TY et al. Dermatol Surg. 2011 Sep;37(9):1291-6.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
The interplay of the neck subunits, as outlined in the recent article by Friedman and colleagues, requires multiple combination treatments, including fat removal, augmentation of deficient bony prominences, relaxation of hyperkinetic muscles, tissue tightening, suture anchoring, skin resurfacing, and treatment of dyschromia.
Horizontal neck lines are linear etched lines or furrows that commonly appear at a young age and are not caused by the aging process. The anatomy of the neck and the manner in which it bends contributes to their development at an early age. It is hypothesized that variable adipose tissue thickness and fibromuscular bands contribute to deepening of these lines in overweight patients. The widespread use of cell phones, laptops, and tablets has increased their prevalence and this has become one of the most common concerns of patients aged under 30 years in my clinic.
Various treatments have been recommended for neck rejuvenation, including hyaluronic acid and dilute calcium hydroxylapatite. In my experience, neither of these treatments adequately resolves the horizontal neck lines, and more importantly, prevents them from reoccurring. In addition, given the variability in skin and adipose thickness in the anterior neck, side effects including lumps, irregular correction, and the Tyndall effect, are common, particularly with incorrect choice of filler and injection depth.
The fibromuscular bands along the transverse neck lines pose one of the complexities in treatment with injectable filler. I have had significant improvement in the aesthetic outcome of my patients by using subcision along the transverse bands extensively prior to injection with hyaluronic acid fillers. The subcision is done with a 27-gauge needle to release the fibrous bands that tether the tissue down. If a patient has excess adipose tissue on either side of the bands, injectable fillers often do not improve the appearance of the lines and can make the neck appear heavier. The use of subcision followed by one to six treatments of deoxycholic acid in the adjacent adipose tissue prior to injection with a filler will help even out the contour of the neck, decrease adipose tissue bulges, release the fibrous bands, and fill the lines properly.
Working from home and on handheld devices has increased the appearance of neck lines in young populations. Despite the vast array of treatments in the aging neck, none have been very successful for this particular problem in the young. We need an improved understanding of these lines and better studies to investigate treatment options and long-term correction.
References:
Friedman O et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Feb;20(2):569-76.
Brandt FS and Boker A. Dermatol Clin. 2004 Apr;22(2):159-66.
Tseng F and Yu H. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2019 Aug 19;7(8):e2366.
Dibernardo BE. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2013 Apr;15(2):56-64.
Jones D et al. Dermatol Surg. 2016 Oct;4 Suppl 1(Suppl 1):S235-42.
Lee SK and Kim HS. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Aug;17(4):590-5.
Chao YY et al. Dermatol Surg. 2011 Oct;37(10):1542-5.
Han TY et al. Dermatol Surg. 2011 Sep;37(9):1291-6.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
Topical tranexamic acid for melasma
By addressing the vascular component of melasma, off-label use of oral tranexamic acid has been a beneficial adjunct for this difficult-to-treat condition. For on-label use treating menorrhagia (the oral form) and short-term prophylaxis of bleeding in hemophilia patients undergoing dental procedures – (the injectable form), tranexamic acid acts as an antifibrinolytic.
By inhibiting plasminogen activation, according to a 2018 review article “tranexamic acid mitigates UV radiation–induced melanogenesis and neovascularization,” both exhibited in the clinical manifestations of melasma.1 In addition to inhibiting fibrinolysis, tranexamic acid has direct effects on UV-induced pigmentation, “via its inhibitory effects on UV light–induced plasminogen activator on keratinocytes and [subsequent] plasmin activity,” the article states. “Plasminogen activator induces tyrosinase activity, resulting in increased melanin synthesis. The presence of plasmin [which dissolves clots by degrading fibrin] results in increased production of both arachidonic acid and fibroblast growth factor, which stimulate melanogenesis and neovascularization, respectively.”
With oral use, the risk of clot formation, especially in those who have a history of blood clots, clotting disorders (such as factor V Leiden), smoking, or other hypercoagulability risks should be weighed.
Topical tranexamic acid used locally mitigates systemic risk, and according to published studies, has been found to be efficacious for hemostasis in knee and hip arthroplasty surgery and for epistaxis. However, clinical outcomes with the topical treatment have largely not been on par with regards to efficacy for melasma when compared with oral tranexamic acid.
. Topical tranexamic acid, in my experience, when applied immediately after fractional 1927-nm diode laser treatment, not only has been noted by patients to feel soothing, but anecdotally has been found to improve pigmentation.
Moreover, there are now several peer-reviewed studies showing some benefit for treating pigmentation from photodamage or melasma with laser-assisted delivery of topical tranexamic acid. Treatment of these conditions may also benefit from nonablative 1927-nm laser alone.
In one recently published study, 10 female melasma patients, Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV, underwent five full-face low-energy, low-density (power 4-5 W, fluence 2-8 mJ, 2-8 passes) 1927-nm fractional thulium fiber laser treatment.2 Topical tranexamic acid was applied immediately after laser treatment and continued twice daily for 7 days. Seven patients completed the study. Based on the Global Aesthetics Improvement Scale (GAIS) ratings, all seven patients noted improvement at day 180, at which time six of the patients were considered to have improved from baseline, according to the investigator GAIS ratings. Using the Melasma Area Severity Index (MASI) score, the greatest degree of improvement was seen at day 90; there were three recurrences of melasma with worsening of the MASI score between day 90 and day 180.
In a split-face, double-blind, randomized controlled study, 46 patients with Fitzpatrick skin types III-V, with recalcitrant melasma received four weekly treatments of full-face fractional 1927-nm thulium laser; topical tranexamic acid was applied to one side of the face and normal saline applied to the other side under occlusion, immediately after treatment.3 At 3 months, significant improvements from baseline were seen with Melanin Index (MI) and modified MASI (mMASI) scores for the sides treated with tranexamic acid and the control side, with no statistically significant differences between the two. However, at month 6, among the 29 patients available for follow-up, significant differences in MI and mMASI scores from baseline were still evident, with the exception of MI scores on the control sides.
No adverse events from using topical tranexamic acid with laser were noted in either study. Split-face randomized control studies with use of topical tranexamic acid after fractional 1927-nm diode laser in comparison to fractional 1927-nm thulium laser would be notable in this vascular and heat-sensitive condition as well.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
1. Sheu SL. Cutis. 2018 Feb;101(2):E7-E8.
2. Wang, JV et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jan;20(1):105-9.
3. Wanitphakdeedecha R. et al. Lasers Med Sci. 2020 Dec;35(9):2015-21.
By addressing the vascular component of melasma, off-label use of oral tranexamic acid has been a beneficial adjunct for this difficult-to-treat condition. For on-label use treating menorrhagia (the oral form) and short-term prophylaxis of bleeding in hemophilia patients undergoing dental procedures – (the injectable form), tranexamic acid acts as an antifibrinolytic.
By inhibiting plasminogen activation, according to a 2018 review article “tranexamic acid mitigates UV radiation–induced melanogenesis and neovascularization,” both exhibited in the clinical manifestations of melasma.1 In addition to inhibiting fibrinolysis, tranexamic acid has direct effects on UV-induced pigmentation, “via its inhibitory effects on UV light–induced plasminogen activator on keratinocytes and [subsequent] plasmin activity,” the article states. “Plasminogen activator induces tyrosinase activity, resulting in increased melanin synthesis. The presence of plasmin [which dissolves clots by degrading fibrin] results in increased production of both arachidonic acid and fibroblast growth factor, which stimulate melanogenesis and neovascularization, respectively.”
With oral use, the risk of clot formation, especially in those who have a history of blood clots, clotting disorders (such as factor V Leiden), smoking, or other hypercoagulability risks should be weighed.
Topical tranexamic acid used locally mitigates systemic risk, and according to published studies, has been found to be efficacious for hemostasis in knee and hip arthroplasty surgery and for epistaxis. However, clinical outcomes with the topical treatment have largely not been on par with regards to efficacy for melasma when compared with oral tranexamic acid.
. Topical tranexamic acid, in my experience, when applied immediately after fractional 1927-nm diode laser treatment, not only has been noted by patients to feel soothing, but anecdotally has been found to improve pigmentation.
Moreover, there are now several peer-reviewed studies showing some benefit for treating pigmentation from photodamage or melasma with laser-assisted delivery of topical tranexamic acid. Treatment of these conditions may also benefit from nonablative 1927-nm laser alone.
In one recently published study, 10 female melasma patients, Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV, underwent five full-face low-energy, low-density (power 4-5 W, fluence 2-8 mJ, 2-8 passes) 1927-nm fractional thulium fiber laser treatment.2 Topical tranexamic acid was applied immediately after laser treatment and continued twice daily for 7 days. Seven patients completed the study. Based on the Global Aesthetics Improvement Scale (GAIS) ratings, all seven patients noted improvement at day 180, at which time six of the patients were considered to have improved from baseline, according to the investigator GAIS ratings. Using the Melasma Area Severity Index (MASI) score, the greatest degree of improvement was seen at day 90; there were three recurrences of melasma with worsening of the MASI score between day 90 and day 180.
In a split-face, double-blind, randomized controlled study, 46 patients with Fitzpatrick skin types III-V, with recalcitrant melasma received four weekly treatments of full-face fractional 1927-nm thulium laser; topical tranexamic acid was applied to one side of the face and normal saline applied to the other side under occlusion, immediately after treatment.3 At 3 months, significant improvements from baseline were seen with Melanin Index (MI) and modified MASI (mMASI) scores for the sides treated with tranexamic acid and the control side, with no statistically significant differences between the two. However, at month 6, among the 29 patients available for follow-up, significant differences in MI and mMASI scores from baseline were still evident, with the exception of MI scores on the control sides.
No adverse events from using topical tranexamic acid with laser were noted in either study. Split-face randomized control studies with use of topical tranexamic acid after fractional 1927-nm diode laser in comparison to fractional 1927-nm thulium laser would be notable in this vascular and heat-sensitive condition as well.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
1. Sheu SL. Cutis. 2018 Feb;101(2):E7-E8.
2. Wang, JV et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jan;20(1):105-9.
3. Wanitphakdeedecha R. et al. Lasers Med Sci. 2020 Dec;35(9):2015-21.
By addressing the vascular component of melasma, off-label use of oral tranexamic acid has been a beneficial adjunct for this difficult-to-treat condition. For on-label use treating menorrhagia (the oral form) and short-term prophylaxis of bleeding in hemophilia patients undergoing dental procedures – (the injectable form), tranexamic acid acts as an antifibrinolytic.
By inhibiting plasminogen activation, according to a 2018 review article “tranexamic acid mitigates UV radiation–induced melanogenesis and neovascularization,” both exhibited in the clinical manifestations of melasma.1 In addition to inhibiting fibrinolysis, tranexamic acid has direct effects on UV-induced pigmentation, “via its inhibitory effects on UV light–induced plasminogen activator on keratinocytes and [subsequent] plasmin activity,” the article states. “Plasminogen activator induces tyrosinase activity, resulting in increased melanin synthesis. The presence of plasmin [which dissolves clots by degrading fibrin] results in increased production of both arachidonic acid and fibroblast growth factor, which stimulate melanogenesis and neovascularization, respectively.”
With oral use, the risk of clot formation, especially in those who have a history of blood clots, clotting disorders (such as factor V Leiden), smoking, or other hypercoagulability risks should be weighed.
Topical tranexamic acid used locally mitigates systemic risk, and according to published studies, has been found to be efficacious for hemostasis in knee and hip arthroplasty surgery and for epistaxis. However, clinical outcomes with the topical treatment have largely not been on par with regards to efficacy for melasma when compared with oral tranexamic acid.
. Topical tranexamic acid, in my experience, when applied immediately after fractional 1927-nm diode laser treatment, not only has been noted by patients to feel soothing, but anecdotally has been found to improve pigmentation.
Moreover, there are now several peer-reviewed studies showing some benefit for treating pigmentation from photodamage or melasma with laser-assisted delivery of topical tranexamic acid. Treatment of these conditions may also benefit from nonablative 1927-nm laser alone.
In one recently published study, 10 female melasma patients, Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV, underwent five full-face low-energy, low-density (power 4-5 W, fluence 2-8 mJ, 2-8 passes) 1927-nm fractional thulium fiber laser treatment.2 Topical tranexamic acid was applied immediately after laser treatment and continued twice daily for 7 days. Seven patients completed the study. Based on the Global Aesthetics Improvement Scale (GAIS) ratings, all seven patients noted improvement at day 180, at which time six of the patients were considered to have improved from baseline, according to the investigator GAIS ratings. Using the Melasma Area Severity Index (MASI) score, the greatest degree of improvement was seen at day 90; there were three recurrences of melasma with worsening of the MASI score between day 90 and day 180.
In a split-face, double-blind, randomized controlled study, 46 patients with Fitzpatrick skin types III-V, with recalcitrant melasma received four weekly treatments of full-face fractional 1927-nm thulium laser; topical tranexamic acid was applied to one side of the face and normal saline applied to the other side under occlusion, immediately after treatment.3 At 3 months, significant improvements from baseline were seen with Melanin Index (MI) and modified MASI (mMASI) scores for the sides treated with tranexamic acid and the control side, with no statistically significant differences between the two. However, at month 6, among the 29 patients available for follow-up, significant differences in MI and mMASI scores from baseline were still evident, with the exception of MI scores on the control sides.
No adverse events from using topical tranexamic acid with laser were noted in either study. Split-face randomized control studies with use of topical tranexamic acid after fractional 1927-nm diode laser in comparison to fractional 1927-nm thulium laser would be notable in this vascular and heat-sensitive condition as well.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
1. Sheu SL. Cutis. 2018 Feb;101(2):E7-E8.
2. Wang, JV et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jan;20(1):105-9.
3. Wanitphakdeedecha R. et al. Lasers Med Sci. 2020 Dec;35(9):2015-21.
Should all skin cancer patients be taking nicotinamide?
In 2014, I began taking care of a patient (see photo) who had developed over 25 basal cell carcinomas on her lower legs, which were surgically removed. She has been clear of any skin cancers in the last 2 years since starting supplementation.
Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, is a water soluble form of vitamin B3 that has been shown to enhance the repair of UV-induced DNA damage. Nicotinamide is found naturally in meat, fish, nuts, grains, and legumes, and is a key component of the glycolysis pathway, by generating nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide for adenosine triphosphate production. Nicotinamide deficiency causes photosensitive dermatitis, diarrhea, and dementia. It has been studied for its anti-inflammatory benefits as an adjunct treatment for rosacea, bullous diseases, acne, and melasma.
Nonmelanoma skin cancers are known to be caused primarily by UV radiation. The supplementation of nicotinamide orally twice daily has been shown to reduce the rate of actinic keratoses and new nonmelanoma skin cancers compared with placebo after 1 year in patients who previously had skin cancer. In the phase 3 study published in 2015, a randomized, controlled trial of 386 patients who had at least two nonmelanoma skin cancers within the previous 5-year period, oral nicotinamide 500 mg given twice daily for a 12-month period significantly reduced the number of new nonmelanoma skin cancers by 23% versus those on placebo.
The recommended dose for nicotinamide, which is available over the counter as Vitamin B3, is 500 mg twice a day. Nicotinamide should not be confused with niacin (nicotinic acid), which has been used to treat high cholesterol and cardiovascular disease. There are no significant side effects from long-term use; however nicotinamide should not be used in patients with end-stage kidney disease or chronic kidney disease. (Niacin, however, can cause elevation of liver enzymes, headache, flushing, and increased blood pressure.) Nicotinamide crosses the placenta and should not be used in pregnancy as it has not been studied in pregnant populations.
We should counsel patients that this is not an oral sunscreen, and that sun avoidance, sunscreen, and yearly skin cancer checks are still the mainstay of skin cancer prevention. However, given the safety profile of nicotinamide and the protective effects, should all of our skin cancer patients be taking nicotinamide daily? In my practice they are, all of whom swear by it and have had significant reductions of both actinic keratoses and nonmelanoma skin cancers.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
In 2014, I began taking care of a patient (see photo) who had developed over 25 basal cell carcinomas on her lower legs, which were surgically removed. She has been clear of any skin cancers in the last 2 years since starting supplementation.
Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, is a water soluble form of vitamin B3 that has been shown to enhance the repair of UV-induced DNA damage. Nicotinamide is found naturally in meat, fish, nuts, grains, and legumes, and is a key component of the glycolysis pathway, by generating nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide for adenosine triphosphate production. Nicotinamide deficiency causes photosensitive dermatitis, diarrhea, and dementia. It has been studied for its anti-inflammatory benefits as an adjunct treatment for rosacea, bullous diseases, acne, and melasma.
Nonmelanoma skin cancers are known to be caused primarily by UV radiation. The supplementation of nicotinamide orally twice daily has been shown to reduce the rate of actinic keratoses and new nonmelanoma skin cancers compared with placebo after 1 year in patients who previously had skin cancer. In the phase 3 study published in 2015, a randomized, controlled trial of 386 patients who had at least two nonmelanoma skin cancers within the previous 5-year period, oral nicotinamide 500 mg given twice daily for a 12-month period significantly reduced the number of new nonmelanoma skin cancers by 23% versus those on placebo.
The recommended dose for nicotinamide, which is available over the counter as Vitamin B3, is 500 mg twice a day. Nicotinamide should not be confused with niacin (nicotinic acid), which has been used to treat high cholesterol and cardiovascular disease. There are no significant side effects from long-term use; however nicotinamide should not be used in patients with end-stage kidney disease or chronic kidney disease. (Niacin, however, can cause elevation of liver enzymes, headache, flushing, and increased blood pressure.) Nicotinamide crosses the placenta and should not be used in pregnancy as it has not been studied in pregnant populations.
We should counsel patients that this is not an oral sunscreen, and that sun avoidance, sunscreen, and yearly skin cancer checks are still the mainstay of skin cancer prevention. However, given the safety profile of nicotinamide and the protective effects, should all of our skin cancer patients be taking nicotinamide daily? In my practice they are, all of whom swear by it and have had significant reductions of both actinic keratoses and nonmelanoma skin cancers.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
In 2014, I began taking care of a patient (see photo) who had developed over 25 basal cell carcinomas on her lower legs, which were surgically removed. She has been clear of any skin cancers in the last 2 years since starting supplementation.
Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, is a water soluble form of vitamin B3 that has been shown to enhance the repair of UV-induced DNA damage. Nicotinamide is found naturally in meat, fish, nuts, grains, and legumes, and is a key component of the glycolysis pathway, by generating nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide for adenosine triphosphate production. Nicotinamide deficiency causes photosensitive dermatitis, diarrhea, and dementia. It has been studied for its anti-inflammatory benefits as an adjunct treatment for rosacea, bullous diseases, acne, and melasma.
Nonmelanoma skin cancers are known to be caused primarily by UV radiation. The supplementation of nicotinamide orally twice daily has been shown to reduce the rate of actinic keratoses and new nonmelanoma skin cancers compared with placebo after 1 year in patients who previously had skin cancer. In the phase 3 study published in 2015, a randomized, controlled trial of 386 patients who had at least two nonmelanoma skin cancers within the previous 5-year period, oral nicotinamide 500 mg given twice daily for a 12-month period significantly reduced the number of new nonmelanoma skin cancers by 23% versus those on placebo.
The recommended dose for nicotinamide, which is available over the counter as Vitamin B3, is 500 mg twice a day. Nicotinamide should not be confused with niacin (nicotinic acid), which has been used to treat high cholesterol and cardiovascular disease. There are no significant side effects from long-term use; however nicotinamide should not be used in patients with end-stage kidney disease or chronic kidney disease. (Niacin, however, can cause elevation of liver enzymes, headache, flushing, and increased blood pressure.) Nicotinamide crosses the placenta and should not be used in pregnancy as it has not been studied in pregnant populations.
We should counsel patients that this is not an oral sunscreen, and that sun avoidance, sunscreen, and yearly skin cancer checks are still the mainstay of skin cancer prevention. However, given the safety profile of nicotinamide and the protective effects, should all of our skin cancer patients be taking nicotinamide daily? In my practice they are, all of whom swear by it and have had significant reductions of both actinic keratoses and nonmelanoma skin cancers.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
A novel method for assessing attractiveness and beauty
While Phi (or the Golden Ratio) and Leonardo da Vinci’s neoclassical canons have been used as traditional mathematical approaches to assess and calculate beauty, there may be more than meets the eye.
This model was created to denote “natural beauty,” both at baseline and after cosmetic procedures, which is what many physicians and patients ideally want to achieve after any aesthetic procedure.
In this model, when all three variables are at a maximum, a desirable attractive appearance is achieved that can be interpreted as “natural.” In his paper introducing this novel model, Dr. Dayan wrote that similar to the time-space dilemma, attractiveness “is relative, dynamic, and highly dependent on the position of the projector and the interpreter.” The 3-D cube of attractiveness “is therefore contained within a fourth dimension that takes into account the perspective of the judger.”
Similarly, in a pilot study,2 Dr. Dayan and colleagues also demonstrated that visually blind individuals can detect beauty. “This study further isolates the nature of beauty as a primal form of messaging that is subconsciously appreciated via embodied senses other than vision,” he and his coauthors wrote.
This observational study consisted of 8 blind and 10 nonblind test subjects and 6 models who were categorized into predetermined beauty categories. Test subjects were blindfolded and unblindfolded during their assessments. All groups rated those models, who were preselected as more beautiful, higher, except for the blindfolded, nonblind group – demonstrating a primal or neural pathway ability to perceive attractiveness in blind individuals. The study, “revealed that beauty is not only detected by visual sense but also through embodied senses other than sight,” the authors commented.
It should be noted that sometimes ethnic features and features that are unique outside of the neoclassical canons or golden ratio can also uniquely make people look more attractive. Ethnic variations in beauty standards exist and need to be further studied and celebrated. There is certainly high expertise and an art required to perceiving aesthetics and performing aesthetic procedures, further exemplified by the complex nature of the different models and mathematical approaches of assessing it. These newer models account for attractiveness that may also start on the inside or beyond purely visual perception.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References:
1. Dayan S, Romero DH. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Oct;17(5):925-30.
2. Dayan SH et al. Dermatol Surg. 2020 Oct;46(10):1317-22.
While Phi (or the Golden Ratio) and Leonardo da Vinci’s neoclassical canons have been used as traditional mathematical approaches to assess and calculate beauty, there may be more than meets the eye.
This model was created to denote “natural beauty,” both at baseline and after cosmetic procedures, which is what many physicians and patients ideally want to achieve after any aesthetic procedure.
In this model, when all three variables are at a maximum, a desirable attractive appearance is achieved that can be interpreted as “natural.” In his paper introducing this novel model, Dr. Dayan wrote that similar to the time-space dilemma, attractiveness “is relative, dynamic, and highly dependent on the position of the projector and the interpreter.” The 3-D cube of attractiveness “is therefore contained within a fourth dimension that takes into account the perspective of the judger.”
Similarly, in a pilot study,2 Dr. Dayan and colleagues also demonstrated that visually blind individuals can detect beauty. “This study further isolates the nature of beauty as a primal form of messaging that is subconsciously appreciated via embodied senses other than vision,” he and his coauthors wrote.
This observational study consisted of 8 blind and 10 nonblind test subjects and 6 models who were categorized into predetermined beauty categories. Test subjects were blindfolded and unblindfolded during their assessments. All groups rated those models, who were preselected as more beautiful, higher, except for the blindfolded, nonblind group – demonstrating a primal or neural pathway ability to perceive attractiveness in blind individuals. The study, “revealed that beauty is not only detected by visual sense but also through embodied senses other than sight,” the authors commented.
It should be noted that sometimes ethnic features and features that are unique outside of the neoclassical canons or golden ratio can also uniquely make people look more attractive. Ethnic variations in beauty standards exist and need to be further studied and celebrated. There is certainly high expertise and an art required to perceiving aesthetics and performing aesthetic procedures, further exemplified by the complex nature of the different models and mathematical approaches of assessing it. These newer models account for attractiveness that may also start on the inside or beyond purely visual perception.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References:
1. Dayan S, Romero DH. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Oct;17(5):925-30.
2. Dayan SH et al. Dermatol Surg. 2020 Oct;46(10):1317-22.
While Phi (or the Golden Ratio) and Leonardo da Vinci’s neoclassical canons have been used as traditional mathematical approaches to assess and calculate beauty, there may be more than meets the eye.
This model was created to denote “natural beauty,” both at baseline and after cosmetic procedures, which is what many physicians and patients ideally want to achieve after any aesthetic procedure.
In this model, when all three variables are at a maximum, a desirable attractive appearance is achieved that can be interpreted as “natural.” In his paper introducing this novel model, Dr. Dayan wrote that similar to the time-space dilemma, attractiveness “is relative, dynamic, and highly dependent on the position of the projector and the interpreter.” The 3-D cube of attractiveness “is therefore contained within a fourth dimension that takes into account the perspective of the judger.”
Similarly, in a pilot study,2 Dr. Dayan and colleagues also demonstrated that visually blind individuals can detect beauty. “This study further isolates the nature of beauty as a primal form of messaging that is subconsciously appreciated via embodied senses other than vision,” he and his coauthors wrote.
This observational study consisted of 8 blind and 10 nonblind test subjects and 6 models who were categorized into predetermined beauty categories. Test subjects were blindfolded and unblindfolded during their assessments. All groups rated those models, who were preselected as more beautiful, higher, except for the blindfolded, nonblind group – demonstrating a primal or neural pathway ability to perceive attractiveness in blind individuals. The study, “revealed that beauty is not only detected by visual sense but also through embodied senses other than sight,” the authors commented.
It should be noted that sometimes ethnic features and features that are unique outside of the neoclassical canons or golden ratio can also uniquely make people look more attractive. Ethnic variations in beauty standards exist and need to be further studied and celebrated. There is certainly high expertise and an art required to perceiving aesthetics and performing aesthetic procedures, further exemplified by the complex nature of the different models and mathematical approaches of assessing it. These newer models account for attractiveness that may also start on the inside or beyond purely visual perception.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References:
1. Dayan S, Romero DH. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Oct;17(5):925-30.
2. Dayan SH et al. Dermatol Surg. 2020 Oct;46(10):1317-22.
Treating the jowl fat overhang with deoxycholic acid
Rejuvenation of the lower face often involves treatment of the submentum and the jowls. Energy-based devices such as lasers, radiofrequency, radiofrequency microneedling, CoolSculpting, and ultrasound have been used in the tightening of the neck and jowls.
However, the only noninvasive injectable treatment approved for the reduction of submental fat is deoxycholic acid (Kybella). The mechanism of action of deoxycholic acid has been documented as adipocyte lysis, followed by a local tissue response with neutrophil infiltration, septal thickening, neocollagenesis, and neovascularization within the subcutaneous layer, with no adverse changes in the dermis or epidermis. This treatment, which has a dose-dependent response, is highly effective for submental fat reduction and jaw contouring.
In my practice, I have found that multiple consecutive treatments with deoxycholic acid (an off-label use) are effective in permanently reducing the jowl overhang with minimal adverse effects.
Jowl fat is a common cause of sagging of the jowls, and there are few alternatives to treatment with surgery or liposuction. Jowl overhang results from multiple factors related to aging, including skeletal resorption, subcutaneous atrophy, superior and inferior fat pad compartment displacement, or mandibular septum dehiscence, which allows for the accumulation of fat pockets to migrate into the neck.
A prospective study published earlier this year describes results in 66 adults with excess jowl fat, who were treated with 2 mg/cm2 of deoxycholic acid. Injections were done in patients with “pinchable fat on the jawline” and “relatively” minimal skin laxity of 0.2 mL spaced approximately 1 cm apart or 0.1 mL spaced 0.5 cm-0.75 cm apart; the mean injection volume was 0.8 mL. After 6 months, 98% of the patients experienced improvement with a mean of 1.8 treatments. Common injection site adverse events included edema, numbness, tenderness, and bruising.
In my experience, injection volumes from 1.0 mL to 1.5 mL of deoxycholic acid can be used in each jowl with minimal adverse events if proper landmarks are followed. It is crucial that the correct patient is selected (one with minimal skin laxity), and that during injection, the fat and skin are pinched away from the underlying musculature and neurovascular structures to avoid injection near the marginal mandibular nerve. Volumes less than 1.0 mL have minimal visible improvements and will require more than 3-4 treatment sessions for optimal results.
. I often see a marked improvement in patients who present prominent marionette lines who have been unhappy with fillers in the lower face. Often, the marionette lines are a result of significant overhang from jowl fat and hyaluronic acid fillers are a temporary and often unsatisfactory treatment option. The use of deoxycholic acid in the treatment of the jowl fat is a highly effective option to minimize the appearance of marionette lines caused by displaced fat pockets in the aging lower face.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com . They had no relevant disclosures.
Rejuvenation of the lower face often involves treatment of the submentum and the jowls. Energy-based devices such as lasers, radiofrequency, radiofrequency microneedling, CoolSculpting, and ultrasound have been used in the tightening of the neck and jowls.
However, the only noninvasive injectable treatment approved for the reduction of submental fat is deoxycholic acid (Kybella). The mechanism of action of deoxycholic acid has been documented as adipocyte lysis, followed by a local tissue response with neutrophil infiltration, septal thickening, neocollagenesis, and neovascularization within the subcutaneous layer, with no adverse changes in the dermis or epidermis. This treatment, which has a dose-dependent response, is highly effective for submental fat reduction and jaw contouring.
In my practice, I have found that multiple consecutive treatments with deoxycholic acid (an off-label use) are effective in permanently reducing the jowl overhang with minimal adverse effects.
Jowl fat is a common cause of sagging of the jowls, and there are few alternatives to treatment with surgery or liposuction. Jowl overhang results from multiple factors related to aging, including skeletal resorption, subcutaneous atrophy, superior and inferior fat pad compartment displacement, or mandibular septum dehiscence, which allows for the accumulation of fat pockets to migrate into the neck.
A prospective study published earlier this year describes results in 66 adults with excess jowl fat, who were treated with 2 mg/cm2 of deoxycholic acid. Injections were done in patients with “pinchable fat on the jawline” and “relatively” minimal skin laxity of 0.2 mL spaced approximately 1 cm apart or 0.1 mL spaced 0.5 cm-0.75 cm apart; the mean injection volume was 0.8 mL. After 6 months, 98% of the patients experienced improvement with a mean of 1.8 treatments. Common injection site adverse events included edema, numbness, tenderness, and bruising.
In my experience, injection volumes from 1.0 mL to 1.5 mL of deoxycholic acid can be used in each jowl with minimal adverse events if proper landmarks are followed. It is crucial that the correct patient is selected (one with minimal skin laxity), and that during injection, the fat and skin are pinched away from the underlying musculature and neurovascular structures to avoid injection near the marginal mandibular nerve. Volumes less than 1.0 mL have minimal visible improvements and will require more than 3-4 treatment sessions for optimal results.
. I often see a marked improvement in patients who present prominent marionette lines who have been unhappy with fillers in the lower face. Often, the marionette lines are a result of significant overhang from jowl fat and hyaluronic acid fillers are a temporary and often unsatisfactory treatment option. The use of deoxycholic acid in the treatment of the jowl fat is a highly effective option to minimize the appearance of marionette lines caused by displaced fat pockets in the aging lower face.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com . They had no relevant disclosures.
Rejuvenation of the lower face often involves treatment of the submentum and the jowls. Energy-based devices such as lasers, radiofrequency, radiofrequency microneedling, CoolSculpting, and ultrasound have been used in the tightening of the neck and jowls.
However, the only noninvasive injectable treatment approved for the reduction of submental fat is deoxycholic acid (Kybella). The mechanism of action of deoxycholic acid has been documented as adipocyte lysis, followed by a local tissue response with neutrophil infiltration, septal thickening, neocollagenesis, and neovascularization within the subcutaneous layer, with no adverse changes in the dermis or epidermis. This treatment, which has a dose-dependent response, is highly effective for submental fat reduction and jaw contouring.
In my practice, I have found that multiple consecutive treatments with deoxycholic acid (an off-label use) are effective in permanently reducing the jowl overhang with minimal adverse effects.
Jowl fat is a common cause of sagging of the jowls, and there are few alternatives to treatment with surgery or liposuction. Jowl overhang results from multiple factors related to aging, including skeletal resorption, subcutaneous atrophy, superior and inferior fat pad compartment displacement, or mandibular septum dehiscence, which allows for the accumulation of fat pockets to migrate into the neck.
A prospective study published earlier this year describes results in 66 adults with excess jowl fat, who were treated with 2 mg/cm2 of deoxycholic acid. Injections were done in patients with “pinchable fat on the jawline” and “relatively” minimal skin laxity of 0.2 mL spaced approximately 1 cm apart or 0.1 mL spaced 0.5 cm-0.75 cm apart; the mean injection volume was 0.8 mL. After 6 months, 98% of the patients experienced improvement with a mean of 1.8 treatments. Common injection site adverse events included edema, numbness, tenderness, and bruising.
In my experience, injection volumes from 1.0 mL to 1.5 mL of deoxycholic acid can be used in each jowl with minimal adverse events if proper landmarks are followed. It is crucial that the correct patient is selected (one with minimal skin laxity), and that during injection, the fat and skin are pinched away from the underlying musculature and neurovascular structures to avoid injection near the marginal mandibular nerve. Volumes less than 1.0 mL have minimal visible improvements and will require more than 3-4 treatment sessions for optimal results.
. I often see a marked improvement in patients who present prominent marionette lines who have been unhappy with fillers in the lower face. Often, the marionette lines are a result of significant overhang from jowl fat and hyaluronic acid fillers are a temporary and often unsatisfactory treatment option. The use of deoxycholic acid in the treatment of the jowl fat is a highly effective option to minimize the appearance of marionette lines caused by displaced fat pockets in the aging lower face.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com . They had no relevant disclosures.
Hair oiling: Practices, benefits, and caveats
including in India and among people of the African diaspora. Hair oiling typically entails combing the hair, followed by applying oil from the roots to the ends about once a week prior to shampooing. Hair oiling daily or every other day, often with a hair braid, is also practiced, using coconut oil or other oils. Oil is found in various hair products and has been popular in the United States, particularly as hot oil treatments in the 1980s.
Oils are used as part of Abhyanga massage, either by an Ayurvedic practitioner or as self-massage, as part of ancient Indian Ayurvedic medicine practice. The type of oil used is determined by the practitioner depending on the individual’s needs; cold-pressed sesame oil or coconut oil is often used as the base oil. Abhyanga is often performed with oil on the entire body as an act of self-care, which includes massage of the hair and scalp. The oil and herbs that are often added to the oil, as well as the scalp massage itself, are explained by practitioners as having therapeutic effects on the hair, including exfoliation of a dry scalp and on overall well-being. Outside of Ayurvedic medicine, hair oiling is also sometimes performed in India as part of routine hair care and can be a bonding experience among parents, grandparents, and children.
Amla oil, which is derived from Indian gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica L.) and is often used in India on the hair, contains Vitamin C and has been shown to have activity against dermatophytes. In a study conducted in India, amla oil was found to have the most activity against Microsporum canis, M. gypseum, and Trichophyton rubrum, followed by cantharidine and coconut oil, while T. mentagrophytes was most susceptible to coconut oil, followed by amla and cantharidine oil.1 A study conducted in mice in Thailand found that 5-alpha-reductase was reduced with the dried form of the herb Phyllanthus emblica L, as well as with some other traditional Thai herbs used as hair treatments.2
Castor oil has been utilized in many cultures to promote hair growth. Ricinoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid and hydroxy acid, is the major component of seed oil obtained from mature castor plants. It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, and in one study,3 was found to inhibit prostaglandin D2, which has been implicated in the pathogenesis of androgenetic alopecia.4 Jamaican black castor oil is darker in color and has a more alkaline pH compared with traditional castor oil (both contain ricinoleic acid). To produce Jamaican black castor oil, the seed is roasted, ground to a thick paste, boiled in a pot of hot water, then the oil is skimmed off of the top into individual bottles, whereas regular castor oil is cold pressed. The alkalinity of Jamaican black castor oil may play a role in opening up the hair cuticle, which may be beneficial, but application also needs to be followed by a routine that includes closing the cuticle to avoid increasing hair fragility; such a routine could include, for example, leave-in conditioner or rinsing conditioner with colder water.
Castor oil is sometimes used on its own or in combination with other oils, and it is also an ingredient in some hair care products. However, publicly available peer-reviewed research articles demonstrating the effects of castor oil when applied directly to the hair and scalp for hair growth are needed.
Different types of hair oils are used in African American hair care products and, worldwide, by people of the African diaspora as part of regular hair care and hair styling. Common oils include jojoba, coconut, castor, argan, olive, sunflower, and almond oils. Very curly hair often dries out more easily, especially in drier climates; and sebum build-up on the scalp does not occur as quickly, so hair typically does not need to be shampooed frequently. As such, over-shampooing also often dries the hair out faster, especially if hair has been chemically processed. Thus, oils help to coat and protect the hair, and smooth the cuticle. Oils themselves do not moisturize, but can seal moisture into the hair or act as humectants and draw moisture in. Rather than applying on dry hair, oils, when used as daily care as opposed to before shampooing, are often applied on clean hair after shampooing and after a leave-in conditioner has been applied to help seal in moisture for the most benefit. For treatment of scalp conditions, depending on the type of hair care practice performed at home, oils may be preferred over potentially drying solutions and foams if available, for optimum hair care.
Hair oiling is a long-standing practice which, when used correctly, can be beneficial for hair management and health. There are, however, caveats to hair oiling, which include being careful not to excessively brush or comb hair that has a lot of oil in it because the hair is slick, which can cause hair to fall out during combing. Some oils have elevated levels of lauric acid (coconut oil has 50%), which has a high affinity for hair proteins.5 While this can support hair strength, care should be taken not to overuse some oils or other products known as “protein packs,” which should be used as directed. Since hair is protein, excess protein build-up coating the hair can block needed moisture, making the hair more knotted and brittle, potentially resulting in more breakage with brushing or other hair care practices.
Some oil-containing hair products also contain artificial fragrances and/or dyes, which in some individuals, may promote an immunogenic effect, such as contact dermatitis. Certain oils, particularly olive oil, can promote an environment favorable to yeast growth, especially Malassezia species, implicated in seborrheic dermatitis. Practices that involve excessive application of oil to the scalp can also result in build up if not shampooed regularly. Sulfonated castor oil (also known as Turkey Red oil) has been reported to cause contact dermatitis.6
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
including in India and among people of the African diaspora. Hair oiling typically entails combing the hair, followed by applying oil from the roots to the ends about once a week prior to shampooing. Hair oiling daily or every other day, often with a hair braid, is also practiced, using coconut oil or other oils. Oil is found in various hair products and has been popular in the United States, particularly as hot oil treatments in the 1980s.
Oils are used as part of Abhyanga massage, either by an Ayurvedic practitioner or as self-massage, as part of ancient Indian Ayurvedic medicine practice. The type of oil used is determined by the practitioner depending on the individual’s needs; cold-pressed sesame oil or coconut oil is often used as the base oil. Abhyanga is often performed with oil on the entire body as an act of self-care, which includes massage of the hair and scalp. The oil and herbs that are often added to the oil, as well as the scalp massage itself, are explained by practitioners as having therapeutic effects on the hair, including exfoliation of a dry scalp and on overall well-being. Outside of Ayurvedic medicine, hair oiling is also sometimes performed in India as part of routine hair care and can be a bonding experience among parents, grandparents, and children.
Amla oil, which is derived from Indian gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica L.) and is often used in India on the hair, contains Vitamin C and has been shown to have activity against dermatophytes. In a study conducted in India, amla oil was found to have the most activity against Microsporum canis, M. gypseum, and Trichophyton rubrum, followed by cantharidine and coconut oil, while T. mentagrophytes was most susceptible to coconut oil, followed by amla and cantharidine oil.1 A study conducted in mice in Thailand found that 5-alpha-reductase was reduced with the dried form of the herb Phyllanthus emblica L, as well as with some other traditional Thai herbs used as hair treatments.2
Castor oil has been utilized in many cultures to promote hair growth. Ricinoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid and hydroxy acid, is the major component of seed oil obtained from mature castor plants. It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, and in one study,3 was found to inhibit prostaglandin D2, which has been implicated in the pathogenesis of androgenetic alopecia.4 Jamaican black castor oil is darker in color and has a more alkaline pH compared with traditional castor oil (both contain ricinoleic acid). To produce Jamaican black castor oil, the seed is roasted, ground to a thick paste, boiled in a pot of hot water, then the oil is skimmed off of the top into individual bottles, whereas regular castor oil is cold pressed. The alkalinity of Jamaican black castor oil may play a role in opening up the hair cuticle, which may be beneficial, but application also needs to be followed by a routine that includes closing the cuticle to avoid increasing hair fragility; such a routine could include, for example, leave-in conditioner or rinsing conditioner with colder water.
Castor oil is sometimes used on its own or in combination with other oils, and it is also an ingredient in some hair care products. However, publicly available peer-reviewed research articles demonstrating the effects of castor oil when applied directly to the hair and scalp for hair growth are needed.
Different types of hair oils are used in African American hair care products and, worldwide, by people of the African diaspora as part of regular hair care and hair styling. Common oils include jojoba, coconut, castor, argan, olive, sunflower, and almond oils. Very curly hair often dries out more easily, especially in drier climates; and sebum build-up on the scalp does not occur as quickly, so hair typically does not need to be shampooed frequently. As such, over-shampooing also often dries the hair out faster, especially if hair has been chemically processed. Thus, oils help to coat and protect the hair, and smooth the cuticle. Oils themselves do not moisturize, but can seal moisture into the hair or act as humectants and draw moisture in. Rather than applying on dry hair, oils, when used as daily care as opposed to before shampooing, are often applied on clean hair after shampooing and after a leave-in conditioner has been applied to help seal in moisture for the most benefit. For treatment of scalp conditions, depending on the type of hair care practice performed at home, oils may be preferred over potentially drying solutions and foams if available, for optimum hair care.
Hair oiling is a long-standing practice which, when used correctly, can be beneficial for hair management and health. There are, however, caveats to hair oiling, which include being careful not to excessively brush or comb hair that has a lot of oil in it because the hair is slick, which can cause hair to fall out during combing. Some oils have elevated levels of lauric acid (coconut oil has 50%), which has a high affinity for hair proteins.5 While this can support hair strength, care should be taken not to overuse some oils or other products known as “protein packs,” which should be used as directed. Since hair is protein, excess protein build-up coating the hair can block needed moisture, making the hair more knotted and brittle, potentially resulting in more breakage with brushing or other hair care practices.
Some oil-containing hair products also contain artificial fragrances and/or dyes, which in some individuals, may promote an immunogenic effect, such as contact dermatitis. Certain oils, particularly olive oil, can promote an environment favorable to yeast growth, especially Malassezia species, implicated in seborrheic dermatitis. Practices that involve excessive application of oil to the scalp can also result in build up if not shampooed regularly. Sulfonated castor oil (also known as Turkey Red oil) has been reported to cause contact dermatitis.6
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
including in India and among people of the African diaspora. Hair oiling typically entails combing the hair, followed by applying oil from the roots to the ends about once a week prior to shampooing. Hair oiling daily or every other day, often with a hair braid, is also practiced, using coconut oil or other oils. Oil is found in various hair products and has been popular in the United States, particularly as hot oil treatments in the 1980s.
Oils are used as part of Abhyanga massage, either by an Ayurvedic practitioner or as self-massage, as part of ancient Indian Ayurvedic medicine practice. The type of oil used is determined by the practitioner depending on the individual’s needs; cold-pressed sesame oil or coconut oil is often used as the base oil. Abhyanga is often performed with oil on the entire body as an act of self-care, which includes massage of the hair and scalp. The oil and herbs that are often added to the oil, as well as the scalp massage itself, are explained by practitioners as having therapeutic effects on the hair, including exfoliation of a dry scalp and on overall well-being. Outside of Ayurvedic medicine, hair oiling is also sometimes performed in India as part of routine hair care and can be a bonding experience among parents, grandparents, and children.
Amla oil, which is derived from Indian gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica L.) and is often used in India on the hair, contains Vitamin C and has been shown to have activity against dermatophytes. In a study conducted in India, amla oil was found to have the most activity against Microsporum canis, M. gypseum, and Trichophyton rubrum, followed by cantharidine and coconut oil, while T. mentagrophytes was most susceptible to coconut oil, followed by amla and cantharidine oil.1 A study conducted in mice in Thailand found that 5-alpha-reductase was reduced with the dried form of the herb Phyllanthus emblica L, as well as with some other traditional Thai herbs used as hair treatments.2
Castor oil has been utilized in many cultures to promote hair growth. Ricinoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid and hydroxy acid, is the major component of seed oil obtained from mature castor plants. It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, and in one study,3 was found to inhibit prostaglandin D2, which has been implicated in the pathogenesis of androgenetic alopecia.4 Jamaican black castor oil is darker in color and has a more alkaline pH compared with traditional castor oil (both contain ricinoleic acid). To produce Jamaican black castor oil, the seed is roasted, ground to a thick paste, boiled in a pot of hot water, then the oil is skimmed off of the top into individual bottles, whereas regular castor oil is cold pressed. The alkalinity of Jamaican black castor oil may play a role in opening up the hair cuticle, which may be beneficial, but application also needs to be followed by a routine that includes closing the cuticle to avoid increasing hair fragility; such a routine could include, for example, leave-in conditioner or rinsing conditioner with colder water.
Castor oil is sometimes used on its own or in combination with other oils, and it is also an ingredient in some hair care products. However, publicly available peer-reviewed research articles demonstrating the effects of castor oil when applied directly to the hair and scalp for hair growth are needed.
Different types of hair oils are used in African American hair care products and, worldwide, by people of the African diaspora as part of regular hair care and hair styling. Common oils include jojoba, coconut, castor, argan, olive, sunflower, and almond oils. Very curly hair often dries out more easily, especially in drier climates; and sebum build-up on the scalp does not occur as quickly, so hair typically does not need to be shampooed frequently. As such, over-shampooing also often dries the hair out faster, especially if hair has been chemically processed. Thus, oils help to coat and protect the hair, and smooth the cuticle. Oils themselves do not moisturize, but can seal moisture into the hair or act as humectants and draw moisture in. Rather than applying on dry hair, oils, when used as daily care as opposed to before shampooing, are often applied on clean hair after shampooing and after a leave-in conditioner has been applied to help seal in moisture for the most benefit. For treatment of scalp conditions, depending on the type of hair care practice performed at home, oils may be preferred over potentially drying solutions and foams if available, for optimum hair care.
Hair oiling is a long-standing practice which, when used correctly, can be beneficial for hair management and health. There are, however, caveats to hair oiling, which include being careful not to excessively brush or comb hair that has a lot of oil in it because the hair is slick, which can cause hair to fall out during combing. Some oils have elevated levels of lauric acid (coconut oil has 50%), which has a high affinity for hair proteins.5 While this can support hair strength, care should be taken not to overuse some oils or other products known as “protein packs,” which should be used as directed. Since hair is protein, excess protein build-up coating the hair can block needed moisture, making the hair more knotted and brittle, potentially resulting in more breakage with brushing or other hair care practices.
Some oil-containing hair products also contain artificial fragrances and/or dyes, which in some individuals, may promote an immunogenic effect, such as contact dermatitis. Certain oils, particularly olive oil, can promote an environment favorable to yeast growth, especially Malassezia species, implicated in seborrheic dermatitis. Practices that involve excessive application of oil to the scalp can also result in build up if not shampooed regularly. Sulfonated castor oil (also known as Turkey Red oil) has been reported to cause contact dermatitis.6
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
Biologic responses to metal implants: Dermatologic implications
Hypersensitivity to implantable devices, albeit rare, is a growing problem. according to a report on biological responses to metal implants released by the Food and Drug Administration in September 2019. Large controlled studies are lacking, and the FDA has initiated extensive postmarketing reviews of certain metal implants in response to safety concerns. Further research is needed on the composition of these implants, the diverse spectrum of metals used, the physical environment in which they are implanted, and the immune response associated with implants.
Local and systemic type IV hypersensitivity reactions can result from exposure to metal ions, which are thought to act as haptens and bind to proteins. The hapten-protein complex acts as the antigen for the T cell. Additionally, both acute and chronic inflammatory responses secondary to wound healing and foreign body reactions can occur. Neutrophils and macrophages elicit a tissue response, which can cause aseptic infection, loosening of joints, and tissue damage. Furthermore, corrosion of metal implants can lead to release of metal ions, which can have genotoxic and carcinogenic effects.
Clinical and subclinical effects of implantable devices depend on the device itself, the composition of the device, the tissue type, and an individual’s immune characteristics. Metal debris released from implants can activate innate and adaptive immune responses through a variety of different mechanisms, depending on the implant type and in what tissues the implant is placed. In the case of orthopedic implants, the most common implants, osteoclasts can sense metal and induce proinflammatory cytokines, which can result in corrosion and uptake of metal particles. Metal devices used in the central nervous system, such as intracerebral electrodes, can cause inflammatory responses leading to tissue encapsulation of electrodes. Corrosion of electrodes and release of metal ions can also impede ion channels in the CNS, blocking critical neuron-signaling pathways. Inflammatory reactions surrounding cardiac and vascular implants containing metal activate coagulation cascades, resulting in endothelial injury and activation of thrombi.
Despite the commonly used term “metal allergy” that delineates a type IV hypersensitivity reaction, reports in the literature supports the existence of both innate and adaptive immune responses to metal implanted in tissues. The recommended terminology is “adverse reactions to metal debris.” The clinical presentation may not be straightforward or easily attributed to the implant. Diagnostic tools are limited and may not detect a causal relationship.
Clinical symptoms can range from local rashes and pruritus to cardiac damage, depression, vertigo, and neurologic symptoms; autoimmune/autoinflammatory reactions including chronic fatigue and autoimmune-like systemic symptoms, such as joint pain, headaches, and hair loss, have also been reported in association with implants containing metal. In addition to pruritus, dermatologic manifestations can include erythema, edema, papules, vesicles, as well as systemic hypersensitivity reactions. Typically, cutaneous reactions usually present within 2 days to 24 months of implantation and may be considered surgical-site infections. Although these reactions can be treated with topical or oral corticosteroids, removal of the device is frequently needed for complete clearance.
In clinical practice, it has been frustrating that potential adverse reactions to metal implants are often overlooked because they are thought to be so rare. There are case series documenting metal implant hypersensitivity, but the actual prevalence of hypersensitivity or autoinflammatory reactions is not known. Testing methods are often inaccurate; therefore, identification of at-risk individuals and management of symptomatic patients with implants is important.
The 2016 American Contact Dermatitis Society guidelines do not recommend preimplantation patch testing unless there is a suspected metal allergy. However, patch testing cannot identify the extent of corrosion, autoinflammatory reactions, and foreign body reactions that can occur.
We must keep an open mind in patients who have implanted devices and have unusual or otherwise undefined symptoms. Often, the symptoms do not directly correspond to the site of implantation and the only way to discern whether the implant is the cause and to treat symptoms is removal of the implanted device.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
Food and Drug Administration. Biological Responses to Metal Implants. 2019 Sep. https://www.fda.gov/media/131150/download.
Atwater AR, Reeder M. Cutis. 2020 Feb;105(2):68-70.
Schalock PC et al. Dermatitis. Sep-Oct 2016;27(5):241-7.
Hypersensitivity to implantable devices, albeit rare, is a growing problem. according to a report on biological responses to metal implants released by the Food and Drug Administration in September 2019. Large controlled studies are lacking, and the FDA has initiated extensive postmarketing reviews of certain metal implants in response to safety concerns. Further research is needed on the composition of these implants, the diverse spectrum of metals used, the physical environment in which they are implanted, and the immune response associated with implants.
Local and systemic type IV hypersensitivity reactions can result from exposure to metal ions, which are thought to act as haptens and bind to proteins. The hapten-protein complex acts as the antigen for the T cell. Additionally, both acute and chronic inflammatory responses secondary to wound healing and foreign body reactions can occur. Neutrophils and macrophages elicit a tissue response, which can cause aseptic infection, loosening of joints, and tissue damage. Furthermore, corrosion of metal implants can lead to release of metal ions, which can have genotoxic and carcinogenic effects.
Clinical and subclinical effects of implantable devices depend on the device itself, the composition of the device, the tissue type, and an individual’s immune characteristics. Metal debris released from implants can activate innate and adaptive immune responses through a variety of different mechanisms, depending on the implant type and in what tissues the implant is placed. In the case of orthopedic implants, the most common implants, osteoclasts can sense metal and induce proinflammatory cytokines, which can result in corrosion and uptake of metal particles. Metal devices used in the central nervous system, such as intracerebral electrodes, can cause inflammatory responses leading to tissue encapsulation of electrodes. Corrosion of electrodes and release of metal ions can also impede ion channels in the CNS, blocking critical neuron-signaling pathways. Inflammatory reactions surrounding cardiac and vascular implants containing metal activate coagulation cascades, resulting in endothelial injury and activation of thrombi.
Despite the commonly used term “metal allergy” that delineates a type IV hypersensitivity reaction, reports in the literature supports the existence of both innate and adaptive immune responses to metal implanted in tissues. The recommended terminology is “adverse reactions to metal debris.” The clinical presentation may not be straightforward or easily attributed to the implant. Diagnostic tools are limited and may not detect a causal relationship.
Clinical symptoms can range from local rashes and pruritus to cardiac damage, depression, vertigo, and neurologic symptoms; autoimmune/autoinflammatory reactions including chronic fatigue and autoimmune-like systemic symptoms, such as joint pain, headaches, and hair loss, have also been reported in association with implants containing metal. In addition to pruritus, dermatologic manifestations can include erythema, edema, papules, vesicles, as well as systemic hypersensitivity reactions. Typically, cutaneous reactions usually present within 2 days to 24 months of implantation and may be considered surgical-site infections. Although these reactions can be treated with topical or oral corticosteroids, removal of the device is frequently needed for complete clearance.
In clinical practice, it has been frustrating that potential adverse reactions to metal implants are often overlooked because they are thought to be so rare. There are case series documenting metal implant hypersensitivity, but the actual prevalence of hypersensitivity or autoinflammatory reactions is not known. Testing methods are often inaccurate; therefore, identification of at-risk individuals and management of symptomatic patients with implants is important.
The 2016 American Contact Dermatitis Society guidelines do not recommend preimplantation patch testing unless there is a suspected metal allergy. However, patch testing cannot identify the extent of corrosion, autoinflammatory reactions, and foreign body reactions that can occur.
We must keep an open mind in patients who have implanted devices and have unusual or otherwise undefined symptoms. Often, the symptoms do not directly correspond to the site of implantation and the only way to discern whether the implant is the cause and to treat symptoms is removal of the implanted device.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
Food and Drug Administration. Biological Responses to Metal Implants. 2019 Sep. https://www.fda.gov/media/131150/download.
Atwater AR, Reeder M. Cutis. 2020 Feb;105(2):68-70.
Schalock PC et al. Dermatitis. Sep-Oct 2016;27(5):241-7.
Hypersensitivity to implantable devices, albeit rare, is a growing problem. according to a report on biological responses to metal implants released by the Food and Drug Administration in September 2019. Large controlled studies are lacking, and the FDA has initiated extensive postmarketing reviews of certain metal implants in response to safety concerns. Further research is needed on the composition of these implants, the diverse spectrum of metals used, the physical environment in which they are implanted, and the immune response associated with implants.
Local and systemic type IV hypersensitivity reactions can result from exposure to metal ions, which are thought to act as haptens and bind to proteins. The hapten-protein complex acts as the antigen for the T cell. Additionally, both acute and chronic inflammatory responses secondary to wound healing and foreign body reactions can occur. Neutrophils and macrophages elicit a tissue response, which can cause aseptic infection, loosening of joints, and tissue damage. Furthermore, corrosion of metal implants can lead to release of metal ions, which can have genotoxic and carcinogenic effects.
Clinical and subclinical effects of implantable devices depend on the device itself, the composition of the device, the tissue type, and an individual’s immune characteristics. Metal debris released from implants can activate innate and adaptive immune responses through a variety of different mechanisms, depending on the implant type and in what tissues the implant is placed. In the case of orthopedic implants, the most common implants, osteoclasts can sense metal and induce proinflammatory cytokines, which can result in corrosion and uptake of metal particles. Metal devices used in the central nervous system, such as intracerebral electrodes, can cause inflammatory responses leading to tissue encapsulation of electrodes. Corrosion of electrodes and release of metal ions can also impede ion channels in the CNS, blocking critical neuron-signaling pathways. Inflammatory reactions surrounding cardiac and vascular implants containing metal activate coagulation cascades, resulting in endothelial injury and activation of thrombi.
Despite the commonly used term “metal allergy” that delineates a type IV hypersensitivity reaction, reports in the literature supports the existence of both innate and adaptive immune responses to metal implanted in tissues. The recommended terminology is “adverse reactions to metal debris.” The clinical presentation may not be straightforward or easily attributed to the implant. Diagnostic tools are limited and may not detect a causal relationship.
Clinical symptoms can range from local rashes and pruritus to cardiac damage, depression, vertigo, and neurologic symptoms; autoimmune/autoinflammatory reactions including chronic fatigue and autoimmune-like systemic symptoms, such as joint pain, headaches, and hair loss, have also been reported in association with implants containing metal. In addition to pruritus, dermatologic manifestations can include erythema, edema, papules, vesicles, as well as systemic hypersensitivity reactions. Typically, cutaneous reactions usually present within 2 days to 24 months of implantation and may be considered surgical-site infections. Although these reactions can be treated with topical or oral corticosteroids, removal of the device is frequently needed for complete clearance.
In clinical practice, it has been frustrating that potential adverse reactions to metal implants are often overlooked because they are thought to be so rare. There are case series documenting metal implant hypersensitivity, but the actual prevalence of hypersensitivity or autoinflammatory reactions is not known. Testing methods are often inaccurate; therefore, identification of at-risk individuals and management of symptomatic patients with implants is important.
The 2016 American Contact Dermatitis Society guidelines do not recommend preimplantation patch testing unless there is a suspected metal allergy. However, patch testing cannot identify the extent of corrosion, autoinflammatory reactions, and foreign body reactions that can occur.
We must keep an open mind in patients who have implanted devices and have unusual or otherwise undefined symptoms. Often, the symptoms do not directly correspond to the site of implantation and the only way to discern whether the implant is the cause and to treat symptoms is removal of the implanted device.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
Food and Drug Administration. Biological Responses to Metal Implants. 2019 Sep. https://www.fda.gov/media/131150/download.
Atwater AR, Reeder M. Cutis. 2020 Feb;105(2):68-70.
Schalock PC et al. Dermatitis. Sep-Oct 2016;27(5):241-7.