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Starting this month, I will be joining Dr. Leslie S. Baumann as a cocontributor to the Cosmeceutical Critique column, and since this is my first column, I would like to formally introduce myself. I am a cosmetic and general dermatologist in private practice in Miami and a longtime skin care enthusiast. My path toward becoming a dermatologist began when I was working in New York City, my hometown, as a scientific researcher, fulfilling my passion for scientific inquiry. After realizing that I most enjoyed applying discoveries made in the lab directly to patient care, I decided to pursue medical school at New York University before completing a dermatology residency at the University of Miami, serving as Chief Resident during my final year. Although I was born and raised in New York, staying in Miami was an obvious decision for me. In addition to the tropical weather and amazing lifestyle, the medical community in Miami supports adventure, creativity, and innovation, which are key aspects that drew me to the University of Miami and continue to drive my personal evolution in private practice.
I now practice at Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute alongside my mentor, Dr. Baumann. I truly have my dream job – I get to talk skin care and do a wide array of cosmetics procedures, perform skin surgeries, and solve complex medical dermatology cases all in a day’s work. My career sits at the intersection of my passions for science, critical thinking, beauty, aesthetics, and most importantly, engaging with patients.
For my first column, I want to , and I will provide a simple framework to approach the design of skin care regimens and utilization of cosmeceuticals in practice.
The focus of a dermatology residency is on medical and surgical skills. We become experts in diagnosing and treating conditions ranging from life-threatening drug reactions like Stevens-Johnson Syndrome to complex diseases like dermatomyositis, utilizing medications and treatments ranging from cyclosporine and methotrexate to biologics and intravenous immunoglobulin, and performing advanced skin surgeries utilizing flaps and grafts to repair defects.
The discipline of cosmetic dermatology, let alone cosmeceuticals, accounts for a fraction of our didactic and hands-on training. I completed a top dermatology residency program that prepared me to treat any dermatologic condition; however, I honestly felt like I didn’t have a strong understanding of cosmeceuticals and skin care and how to integrate them with prescription therapies when I completed residency, which is a sentiment shared by residents across the country. I remember a study break while preparing for my final board exam when I went into a tailspin for an entire day trying to decode an ingredient list of a new “antiaging serum” and researching its mechanisms of action and the clinical data supporting the active ingredients in the serum, which included bakuchiol and a blend of peptides. As a dermatologist who likes to treat and provide recommendations based on scientific rationale and data to deliver the highest level of care, I admit that I felt insecure not being as knowledgeable about cosmeceuticals as I was about more complex dermatology treatments. As both a cosmetic and general dermatologist, discussing skin care and cosmeceuticals independent of or in conjunction with medical management occurs daily, and I recognized that becoming an expert in this area is essential to becoming a top, well-rounded dermatologist.
A gap in cosmeceutical education in dermatology residency
Multiple studies have established that the field of cosmetic dermatology comprises a fraction of dermatology residency training. In 2013, Kirby et al. published a survey of dermatology instructors and chief residents across the country and found that only 67% of responders reported having received formal lectures on cosmetic dermatology.1 In 2014, Bauer et al. published a survey of dermatology program directors assessing attitudes toward cosmetic dermatology and reported that only 38% of program directors believed that cosmetic dermatology should be a necessary aspect of residency training.2 A survey sent to dermatology residents published in 2012 found that among respondents, more than 58% of residency programs have an “encouraging or somewhat encouraging” attitude toward teaching cosmetic dermatology, yet 22% of programs had a “somewhat discouraging” or “discouraging” attitude.3 While these noted studies have focused on procedural aspects of cosmetic dermatology training, Feetham et al. surveyed dermatology residents and faculty to assess attitudes toward and training on skin care and cosmeceuticals specifically. Among resident respondents, most (74.5%) reported their education on skin care and cosmeceuticals has been “too little or nonexistent” during residency and 76.5% “agree or strongly agree” that it should be part of their education.4 In contrast, 60% of faculty reported resident education on skin care and cosmeceuticals is “just the right amount or too much” (P < .001).
In my personal experience as a resident, discussing skin care was emphasized when treating patients with eczema, contact dermatitis, acne, and hair disorders, but otherwise, the majority of skin care discussions relied on having a stock list of recommended cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens. In regards to cosmeceuticals for facial skin specifically, there were only a handful of instances in which alternative ingredients, such as vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, were discussed and specific brands were mentioned. Upon reflection, I wish I had more opportunity to see the clinical benefits of cosmeceuticals first hand, just like when I observe dupilumab clear patients with severe atopic dermatitis, rather than reading about it in textbooks and journals.
While one hypothesis for programs’ limited attention given to cosmetic training may be that it detracts from medical training, the survey by Bauer et al. found that residents did not feel less prepared (94.9%) or less interested (97.4%) in medical dermatology as a result of their cosmetic training.2 In addition, providers in an academic dermatology residency may limit discussions of skin care because of the high patient volume and because extensive skin care discussions will not impact insurance billings. Academic dermatology programs often service patients with more financial constraints, which further limits OTC cosmeceutical discussions. In my residency experience, I had the opportunity to regularly treat more severe and rare dermatologic cases than those I encounter in private practice; therefore, I spent more time focusing on systemic therapies, with fewer opportunities to dedicate time to cosmeceuticals.
Why skin care and cosmeceuticals should be an essential aspect of residency training
Discussing skin care and cosmeceuticals is a valuable aspect of medical and general dermatology, not just aesthetic dermatology. When treating general dermatologic conditions, guidance on proper skin care can improve both adherence and efficacy of medical treatments. For example, an acne study by de Lucas et al. demonstrated that adherence to adjuvant treatment of acne (such as the use of moisturizers) was associated not only with a 2.4-fold increase in the probability of adherence to pharmacological treatment, but also with a significant reduction in acne severity.5 Aside from skin care, cosmeceuticals themselves have efficacy in treating general dermatologic conditions. In the treatment of acne, topical niacinamide, a popular cosmeceutical ingredient, has been shown to have sebosuppressive and anti-inflammatory effects, addressing key aspects of acne pathogenesis.6 A double-blind study by Draelos et al. reported topical 2% niacinamide was effective in reducing the rate of sebum excretion in 50 Japanese patients over 4 weeks.6 In several double-blind studies that have compared twice daily application of 4% nicotinamide gel with the same application of 1% clindamycin gel in moderate inflammatory acne over 8 weeks, nicotinamide gel reduced the number of inflammatory papules and acne lesions to a level comparable with clindamycin gel.6 These studies support the use of niacinamide cosmeceutical products as an adjunctive treatment for acne.
With increased clinical data supporting cosmeceuticals, it can be expected that some cosmeceuticals will substitute traditional prescription medications in the dermatologists’ arsenal. For example, hydroquinone – both prescription strength and OTC 2% – is a workhorse in treating melasma; however, there is increasing interest in hydroquinone-free treatments, especially since OTC cosmeceuticals containing 2% hydroquinone were banned in 2020 because of safety concerns. Dermatologists will therefore need to provide guidance about hydroquinone alternatives for skin lightening, including soy, licorice extracts, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, N-acetylglucosamine, and vitamin C, among others.7 Utilizing knowledge of a cosmeceutical’s mechanisms of action and clinical data, the dermatologist is in the best position to guide patients toward optimal ingredients and dispel cosmeceutical myths. Given that cosmeceuticals are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration, it is even more important that the dermatologist serves as an authority on cosmeceuticals.
How to become a master skin care and cosmeceutical prescriber
A common pitfall I have observed among practitioners less experienced with aesthetic-focused skin care and cosmeceuticals is adapting a one-size-fits-all approach. In the one-size-fits-all approach, every patient concerned about aging gets the same vitamin C serum and retinoid, and every patient with hyperpigmentation gets the same hydroquinone prescription, for example. This approach, however, does not take into account unique differences in patients’ skin. Below
is the basic skin care framework that I follow, taught to me by Dr. Baumann. It utilizes an individualized approach based on the patient’s skin qualities to achieve optimal results.
Determine the patient’s skin type (dry vs. oily; sensitive vs. not sensitive; pigmentation issues vs. no hyperpigmentation; wrinkled and mature vs. nonwrinkled) and identify concerns (e.g., dark spots, redness, acne, dehydration).
Separate products into categories of cleansers, eye creams, moisturizers, sun protection, and treatments. Treatments refers to any additional products in a skin care regimen intended to ameliorate a particular condition (e.g., vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, retinoids for fine lines).
Choose products for each category in step 2 (cleansers, eye creams, moisturizers, sun protection, treatments) that are complementary to the patient’s skin type (determined in step 1) and aid the patient in meeting their particular skin goals. For example, a salicylic acid cleanser would be beneficial for a patient with oily skin and acne, but this same cleanser may be too drying and irritating for an acne patient with dry skin.
Ensure that chosen ingredients and products work together harmoniously. For example, while the acne patient may benefit from a salicylic acid cleanser and retinoid cream, using them in succession initially may be overly drying for some patients.
Spend the time to make sure patients understand the appropriate order of application and recognize when efficacy of a product is impacted by another product in the regimen. For example, a low pH cleanser can increase penetration of an ascorbic acid product that follows it in the regimen.
After establishing a basic skin care framework, the next step for beginners is learning about ingredients and their mechanisms of action and familiarizing themselves with scientific and clinical studies. Until cosmeceuticals become an integral part of the training curriculum, dermatologists can gain knowledge independently by reading literature and studies on cosmeceutical active ingredients and experimenting with consumer products. I look forward to regularly contributing to this column to further our awareness and understanding of the mechanisms of and data supporting cosmeceuticals so that we can better guide our patients.
Please feel free to email me at chloe@derm.net or message me on Instagram @DrChloeGoldman with ideas that you would like me to address in this column.
Dr. Goldman is a dermatologist in private practice in Miami, and specializes in cosmetic and general dermatology. She practices at Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute and is also opening a new general dermatology practice. Dr. Goldman receives compensation to create social media content for Replenix, a skin care company. She has no other relevant disclosures.
References
1. Kirby JS et al. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;68(2):e23-8.
2. Bauer et al. JAMA Dermatol. 2014;150(2):125-9.
3. Group A et al. Dermatol Surg. 2012;38(12):1975-80.
4. Feetham HJ et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(2):220-6.
5. de Lucas R et al. BMC Dermatol. 2015;15:17.
6. Araviiskaia E and Dreno BJ. Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016;30(6):926-35.
7. Leyden JJ et al. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011;25(10):1140-5.
Starting this month, I will be joining Dr. Leslie S. Baumann as a cocontributor to the Cosmeceutical Critique column, and since this is my first column, I would like to formally introduce myself. I am a cosmetic and general dermatologist in private practice in Miami and a longtime skin care enthusiast. My path toward becoming a dermatologist began when I was working in New York City, my hometown, as a scientific researcher, fulfilling my passion for scientific inquiry. After realizing that I most enjoyed applying discoveries made in the lab directly to patient care, I decided to pursue medical school at New York University before completing a dermatology residency at the University of Miami, serving as Chief Resident during my final year. Although I was born and raised in New York, staying in Miami was an obvious decision for me. In addition to the tropical weather and amazing lifestyle, the medical community in Miami supports adventure, creativity, and innovation, which are key aspects that drew me to the University of Miami and continue to drive my personal evolution in private practice.
I now practice at Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute alongside my mentor, Dr. Baumann. I truly have my dream job – I get to talk skin care and do a wide array of cosmetics procedures, perform skin surgeries, and solve complex medical dermatology cases all in a day’s work. My career sits at the intersection of my passions for science, critical thinking, beauty, aesthetics, and most importantly, engaging with patients.
For my first column, I want to , and I will provide a simple framework to approach the design of skin care regimens and utilization of cosmeceuticals in practice.
The focus of a dermatology residency is on medical and surgical skills. We become experts in diagnosing and treating conditions ranging from life-threatening drug reactions like Stevens-Johnson Syndrome to complex diseases like dermatomyositis, utilizing medications and treatments ranging from cyclosporine and methotrexate to biologics and intravenous immunoglobulin, and performing advanced skin surgeries utilizing flaps and grafts to repair defects.
The discipline of cosmetic dermatology, let alone cosmeceuticals, accounts for a fraction of our didactic and hands-on training. I completed a top dermatology residency program that prepared me to treat any dermatologic condition; however, I honestly felt like I didn’t have a strong understanding of cosmeceuticals and skin care and how to integrate them with prescription therapies when I completed residency, which is a sentiment shared by residents across the country. I remember a study break while preparing for my final board exam when I went into a tailspin for an entire day trying to decode an ingredient list of a new “antiaging serum” and researching its mechanisms of action and the clinical data supporting the active ingredients in the serum, which included bakuchiol and a blend of peptides. As a dermatologist who likes to treat and provide recommendations based on scientific rationale and data to deliver the highest level of care, I admit that I felt insecure not being as knowledgeable about cosmeceuticals as I was about more complex dermatology treatments. As both a cosmetic and general dermatologist, discussing skin care and cosmeceuticals independent of or in conjunction with medical management occurs daily, and I recognized that becoming an expert in this area is essential to becoming a top, well-rounded dermatologist.
A gap in cosmeceutical education in dermatology residency
Multiple studies have established that the field of cosmetic dermatology comprises a fraction of dermatology residency training. In 2013, Kirby et al. published a survey of dermatology instructors and chief residents across the country and found that only 67% of responders reported having received formal lectures on cosmetic dermatology.1 In 2014, Bauer et al. published a survey of dermatology program directors assessing attitudes toward cosmetic dermatology and reported that only 38% of program directors believed that cosmetic dermatology should be a necessary aspect of residency training.2 A survey sent to dermatology residents published in 2012 found that among respondents, more than 58% of residency programs have an “encouraging or somewhat encouraging” attitude toward teaching cosmetic dermatology, yet 22% of programs had a “somewhat discouraging” or “discouraging” attitude.3 While these noted studies have focused on procedural aspects of cosmetic dermatology training, Feetham et al. surveyed dermatology residents and faculty to assess attitudes toward and training on skin care and cosmeceuticals specifically. Among resident respondents, most (74.5%) reported their education on skin care and cosmeceuticals has been “too little or nonexistent” during residency and 76.5% “agree or strongly agree” that it should be part of their education.4 In contrast, 60% of faculty reported resident education on skin care and cosmeceuticals is “just the right amount or too much” (P < .001).
In my personal experience as a resident, discussing skin care was emphasized when treating patients with eczema, contact dermatitis, acne, and hair disorders, but otherwise, the majority of skin care discussions relied on having a stock list of recommended cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens. In regards to cosmeceuticals for facial skin specifically, there were only a handful of instances in which alternative ingredients, such as vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, were discussed and specific brands were mentioned. Upon reflection, I wish I had more opportunity to see the clinical benefits of cosmeceuticals first hand, just like when I observe dupilumab clear patients with severe atopic dermatitis, rather than reading about it in textbooks and journals.
While one hypothesis for programs’ limited attention given to cosmetic training may be that it detracts from medical training, the survey by Bauer et al. found that residents did not feel less prepared (94.9%) or less interested (97.4%) in medical dermatology as a result of their cosmetic training.2 In addition, providers in an academic dermatology residency may limit discussions of skin care because of the high patient volume and because extensive skin care discussions will not impact insurance billings. Academic dermatology programs often service patients with more financial constraints, which further limits OTC cosmeceutical discussions. In my residency experience, I had the opportunity to regularly treat more severe and rare dermatologic cases than those I encounter in private practice; therefore, I spent more time focusing on systemic therapies, with fewer opportunities to dedicate time to cosmeceuticals.
Why skin care and cosmeceuticals should be an essential aspect of residency training
Discussing skin care and cosmeceuticals is a valuable aspect of medical and general dermatology, not just aesthetic dermatology. When treating general dermatologic conditions, guidance on proper skin care can improve both adherence and efficacy of medical treatments. For example, an acne study by de Lucas et al. demonstrated that adherence to adjuvant treatment of acne (such as the use of moisturizers) was associated not only with a 2.4-fold increase in the probability of adherence to pharmacological treatment, but also with a significant reduction in acne severity.5 Aside from skin care, cosmeceuticals themselves have efficacy in treating general dermatologic conditions. In the treatment of acne, topical niacinamide, a popular cosmeceutical ingredient, has been shown to have sebosuppressive and anti-inflammatory effects, addressing key aspects of acne pathogenesis.6 A double-blind study by Draelos et al. reported topical 2% niacinamide was effective in reducing the rate of sebum excretion in 50 Japanese patients over 4 weeks.6 In several double-blind studies that have compared twice daily application of 4% nicotinamide gel with the same application of 1% clindamycin gel in moderate inflammatory acne over 8 weeks, nicotinamide gel reduced the number of inflammatory papules and acne lesions to a level comparable with clindamycin gel.6 These studies support the use of niacinamide cosmeceutical products as an adjunctive treatment for acne.
With increased clinical data supporting cosmeceuticals, it can be expected that some cosmeceuticals will substitute traditional prescription medications in the dermatologists’ arsenal. For example, hydroquinone – both prescription strength and OTC 2% – is a workhorse in treating melasma; however, there is increasing interest in hydroquinone-free treatments, especially since OTC cosmeceuticals containing 2% hydroquinone were banned in 2020 because of safety concerns. Dermatologists will therefore need to provide guidance about hydroquinone alternatives for skin lightening, including soy, licorice extracts, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, N-acetylglucosamine, and vitamin C, among others.7 Utilizing knowledge of a cosmeceutical’s mechanisms of action and clinical data, the dermatologist is in the best position to guide patients toward optimal ingredients and dispel cosmeceutical myths. Given that cosmeceuticals are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration, it is even more important that the dermatologist serves as an authority on cosmeceuticals.
How to become a master skin care and cosmeceutical prescriber
A common pitfall I have observed among practitioners less experienced with aesthetic-focused skin care and cosmeceuticals is adapting a one-size-fits-all approach. In the one-size-fits-all approach, every patient concerned about aging gets the same vitamin C serum and retinoid, and every patient with hyperpigmentation gets the same hydroquinone prescription, for example. This approach, however, does not take into account unique differences in patients’ skin. Below
is the basic skin care framework that I follow, taught to me by Dr. Baumann. It utilizes an individualized approach based on the patient’s skin qualities to achieve optimal results.
Determine the patient’s skin type (dry vs. oily; sensitive vs. not sensitive; pigmentation issues vs. no hyperpigmentation; wrinkled and mature vs. nonwrinkled) and identify concerns (e.g., dark spots, redness, acne, dehydration).
Separate products into categories of cleansers, eye creams, moisturizers, sun protection, and treatments. Treatments refers to any additional products in a skin care regimen intended to ameliorate a particular condition (e.g., vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, retinoids for fine lines).
Choose products for each category in step 2 (cleansers, eye creams, moisturizers, sun protection, treatments) that are complementary to the patient’s skin type (determined in step 1) and aid the patient in meeting their particular skin goals. For example, a salicylic acid cleanser would be beneficial for a patient with oily skin and acne, but this same cleanser may be too drying and irritating for an acne patient with dry skin.
Ensure that chosen ingredients and products work together harmoniously. For example, while the acne patient may benefit from a salicylic acid cleanser and retinoid cream, using them in succession initially may be overly drying for some patients.
Spend the time to make sure patients understand the appropriate order of application and recognize when efficacy of a product is impacted by another product in the regimen. For example, a low pH cleanser can increase penetration of an ascorbic acid product that follows it in the regimen.
After establishing a basic skin care framework, the next step for beginners is learning about ingredients and their mechanisms of action and familiarizing themselves with scientific and clinical studies. Until cosmeceuticals become an integral part of the training curriculum, dermatologists can gain knowledge independently by reading literature and studies on cosmeceutical active ingredients and experimenting with consumer products. I look forward to regularly contributing to this column to further our awareness and understanding of the mechanisms of and data supporting cosmeceuticals so that we can better guide our patients.
Please feel free to email me at chloe@derm.net or message me on Instagram @DrChloeGoldman with ideas that you would like me to address in this column.
Dr. Goldman is a dermatologist in private practice in Miami, and specializes in cosmetic and general dermatology. She practices at Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute and is also opening a new general dermatology practice. Dr. Goldman receives compensation to create social media content for Replenix, a skin care company. She has no other relevant disclosures.
References
1. Kirby JS et al. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;68(2):e23-8.
2. Bauer et al. JAMA Dermatol. 2014;150(2):125-9.
3. Group A et al. Dermatol Surg. 2012;38(12):1975-80.
4. Feetham HJ et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(2):220-6.
5. de Lucas R et al. BMC Dermatol. 2015;15:17.
6. Araviiskaia E and Dreno BJ. Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016;30(6):926-35.
7. Leyden JJ et al. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011;25(10):1140-5.
Starting this month, I will be joining Dr. Leslie S. Baumann as a cocontributor to the Cosmeceutical Critique column, and since this is my first column, I would like to formally introduce myself. I am a cosmetic and general dermatologist in private practice in Miami and a longtime skin care enthusiast. My path toward becoming a dermatologist began when I was working in New York City, my hometown, as a scientific researcher, fulfilling my passion for scientific inquiry. After realizing that I most enjoyed applying discoveries made in the lab directly to patient care, I decided to pursue medical school at New York University before completing a dermatology residency at the University of Miami, serving as Chief Resident during my final year. Although I was born and raised in New York, staying in Miami was an obvious decision for me. In addition to the tropical weather and amazing lifestyle, the medical community in Miami supports adventure, creativity, and innovation, which are key aspects that drew me to the University of Miami and continue to drive my personal evolution in private practice.
I now practice at Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute alongside my mentor, Dr. Baumann. I truly have my dream job – I get to talk skin care and do a wide array of cosmetics procedures, perform skin surgeries, and solve complex medical dermatology cases all in a day’s work. My career sits at the intersection of my passions for science, critical thinking, beauty, aesthetics, and most importantly, engaging with patients.
For my first column, I want to , and I will provide a simple framework to approach the design of skin care regimens and utilization of cosmeceuticals in practice.
The focus of a dermatology residency is on medical and surgical skills. We become experts in diagnosing and treating conditions ranging from life-threatening drug reactions like Stevens-Johnson Syndrome to complex diseases like dermatomyositis, utilizing medications and treatments ranging from cyclosporine and methotrexate to biologics and intravenous immunoglobulin, and performing advanced skin surgeries utilizing flaps and grafts to repair defects.
The discipline of cosmetic dermatology, let alone cosmeceuticals, accounts for a fraction of our didactic and hands-on training. I completed a top dermatology residency program that prepared me to treat any dermatologic condition; however, I honestly felt like I didn’t have a strong understanding of cosmeceuticals and skin care and how to integrate them with prescription therapies when I completed residency, which is a sentiment shared by residents across the country. I remember a study break while preparing for my final board exam when I went into a tailspin for an entire day trying to decode an ingredient list of a new “antiaging serum” and researching its mechanisms of action and the clinical data supporting the active ingredients in the serum, which included bakuchiol and a blend of peptides. As a dermatologist who likes to treat and provide recommendations based on scientific rationale and data to deliver the highest level of care, I admit that I felt insecure not being as knowledgeable about cosmeceuticals as I was about more complex dermatology treatments. As both a cosmetic and general dermatologist, discussing skin care and cosmeceuticals independent of or in conjunction with medical management occurs daily, and I recognized that becoming an expert in this area is essential to becoming a top, well-rounded dermatologist.
A gap in cosmeceutical education in dermatology residency
Multiple studies have established that the field of cosmetic dermatology comprises a fraction of dermatology residency training. In 2013, Kirby et al. published a survey of dermatology instructors and chief residents across the country and found that only 67% of responders reported having received formal lectures on cosmetic dermatology.1 In 2014, Bauer et al. published a survey of dermatology program directors assessing attitudes toward cosmetic dermatology and reported that only 38% of program directors believed that cosmetic dermatology should be a necessary aspect of residency training.2 A survey sent to dermatology residents published in 2012 found that among respondents, more than 58% of residency programs have an “encouraging or somewhat encouraging” attitude toward teaching cosmetic dermatology, yet 22% of programs had a “somewhat discouraging” or “discouraging” attitude.3 While these noted studies have focused on procedural aspects of cosmetic dermatology training, Feetham et al. surveyed dermatology residents and faculty to assess attitudes toward and training on skin care and cosmeceuticals specifically. Among resident respondents, most (74.5%) reported their education on skin care and cosmeceuticals has been “too little or nonexistent” during residency and 76.5% “agree or strongly agree” that it should be part of their education.4 In contrast, 60% of faculty reported resident education on skin care and cosmeceuticals is “just the right amount or too much” (P < .001).
In my personal experience as a resident, discussing skin care was emphasized when treating patients with eczema, contact dermatitis, acne, and hair disorders, but otherwise, the majority of skin care discussions relied on having a stock list of recommended cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens. In regards to cosmeceuticals for facial skin specifically, there were only a handful of instances in which alternative ingredients, such as vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, were discussed and specific brands were mentioned. Upon reflection, I wish I had more opportunity to see the clinical benefits of cosmeceuticals first hand, just like when I observe dupilumab clear patients with severe atopic dermatitis, rather than reading about it in textbooks and journals.
While one hypothesis for programs’ limited attention given to cosmetic training may be that it detracts from medical training, the survey by Bauer et al. found that residents did not feel less prepared (94.9%) or less interested (97.4%) in medical dermatology as a result of their cosmetic training.2 In addition, providers in an academic dermatology residency may limit discussions of skin care because of the high patient volume and because extensive skin care discussions will not impact insurance billings. Academic dermatology programs often service patients with more financial constraints, which further limits OTC cosmeceutical discussions. In my residency experience, I had the opportunity to regularly treat more severe and rare dermatologic cases than those I encounter in private practice; therefore, I spent more time focusing on systemic therapies, with fewer opportunities to dedicate time to cosmeceuticals.
Why skin care and cosmeceuticals should be an essential aspect of residency training
Discussing skin care and cosmeceuticals is a valuable aspect of medical and general dermatology, not just aesthetic dermatology. When treating general dermatologic conditions, guidance on proper skin care can improve both adherence and efficacy of medical treatments. For example, an acne study by de Lucas et al. demonstrated that adherence to adjuvant treatment of acne (such as the use of moisturizers) was associated not only with a 2.4-fold increase in the probability of adherence to pharmacological treatment, but also with a significant reduction in acne severity.5 Aside from skin care, cosmeceuticals themselves have efficacy in treating general dermatologic conditions. In the treatment of acne, topical niacinamide, a popular cosmeceutical ingredient, has been shown to have sebosuppressive and anti-inflammatory effects, addressing key aspects of acne pathogenesis.6 A double-blind study by Draelos et al. reported topical 2% niacinamide was effective in reducing the rate of sebum excretion in 50 Japanese patients over 4 weeks.6 In several double-blind studies that have compared twice daily application of 4% nicotinamide gel with the same application of 1% clindamycin gel in moderate inflammatory acne over 8 weeks, nicotinamide gel reduced the number of inflammatory papules and acne lesions to a level comparable with clindamycin gel.6 These studies support the use of niacinamide cosmeceutical products as an adjunctive treatment for acne.
With increased clinical data supporting cosmeceuticals, it can be expected that some cosmeceuticals will substitute traditional prescription medications in the dermatologists’ arsenal. For example, hydroquinone – both prescription strength and OTC 2% – is a workhorse in treating melasma; however, there is increasing interest in hydroquinone-free treatments, especially since OTC cosmeceuticals containing 2% hydroquinone were banned in 2020 because of safety concerns. Dermatologists will therefore need to provide guidance about hydroquinone alternatives for skin lightening, including soy, licorice extracts, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, N-acetylglucosamine, and vitamin C, among others.7 Utilizing knowledge of a cosmeceutical’s mechanisms of action and clinical data, the dermatologist is in the best position to guide patients toward optimal ingredients and dispel cosmeceutical myths. Given that cosmeceuticals are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration, it is even more important that the dermatologist serves as an authority on cosmeceuticals.
How to become a master skin care and cosmeceutical prescriber
A common pitfall I have observed among practitioners less experienced with aesthetic-focused skin care and cosmeceuticals is adapting a one-size-fits-all approach. In the one-size-fits-all approach, every patient concerned about aging gets the same vitamin C serum and retinoid, and every patient with hyperpigmentation gets the same hydroquinone prescription, for example. This approach, however, does not take into account unique differences in patients’ skin. Below
is the basic skin care framework that I follow, taught to me by Dr. Baumann. It utilizes an individualized approach based on the patient’s skin qualities to achieve optimal results.
Determine the patient’s skin type (dry vs. oily; sensitive vs. not sensitive; pigmentation issues vs. no hyperpigmentation; wrinkled and mature vs. nonwrinkled) and identify concerns (e.g., dark spots, redness, acne, dehydration).
Separate products into categories of cleansers, eye creams, moisturizers, sun protection, and treatments. Treatments refers to any additional products in a skin care regimen intended to ameliorate a particular condition (e.g., vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, retinoids for fine lines).
Choose products for each category in step 2 (cleansers, eye creams, moisturizers, sun protection, treatments) that are complementary to the patient’s skin type (determined in step 1) and aid the patient in meeting their particular skin goals. For example, a salicylic acid cleanser would be beneficial for a patient with oily skin and acne, but this same cleanser may be too drying and irritating for an acne patient with dry skin.
Ensure that chosen ingredients and products work together harmoniously. For example, while the acne patient may benefit from a salicylic acid cleanser and retinoid cream, using them in succession initially may be overly drying for some patients.
Spend the time to make sure patients understand the appropriate order of application and recognize when efficacy of a product is impacted by another product in the regimen. For example, a low pH cleanser can increase penetration of an ascorbic acid product that follows it in the regimen.
After establishing a basic skin care framework, the next step for beginners is learning about ingredients and their mechanisms of action and familiarizing themselves with scientific and clinical studies. Until cosmeceuticals become an integral part of the training curriculum, dermatologists can gain knowledge independently by reading literature and studies on cosmeceutical active ingredients and experimenting with consumer products. I look forward to regularly contributing to this column to further our awareness and understanding of the mechanisms of and data supporting cosmeceuticals so that we can better guide our patients.
Please feel free to email me at chloe@derm.net or message me on Instagram @DrChloeGoldman with ideas that you would like me to address in this column.
Dr. Goldman is a dermatologist in private practice in Miami, and specializes in cosmetic and general dermatology. She practices at Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute and is also opening a new general dermatology practice. Dr. Goldman receives compensation to create social media content for Replenix, a skin care company. She has no other relevant disclosures.
References
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