Clinical Review

Topical Natural Products in Managing Dermatologic Conditions: Observations and Recommendations

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Physician Perceptions of Nature-Based Products

Physicians recommend nature-based products based on several factors. Central to the recommendation is an understanding, through appropriate documentation, that the product will be reasonably efficacious. Critical to this point, physicians must understand what ingredients are in nature-based products, their concentrations or amounts, and why they are present. However, our experience with nature-based products suggests that many of these factors are not met. Limited or unclear information on the efficacy of nature-based products fails to satisfy a physician’s need for adequate information to support recommendations. Although natural ingredients are listed on product labels, their intended benefit and efficacy characteristics often are unclear or poorly stated, in some cases resulting from improper labeling and in other cases due to claim restrictions imposed on cosmetics. In addition, insufficient details on formulation, such as type and percentages of oils, antioxidants, and vitamins, hinder the physician’s ability to identify and explain mechanisms that bring benefit to the patient. Universal benchmarks do not exist for amounts or concentrations of ingredients that are required for a stated benefit.27 Currently, no standards exist for assurances that product quality, control, and efficacy are consistently reproducible. For example, angel dusting is a practice that discloses that an active ingredient is present, yet these ingredients may be present in quantities that are insufficient to provide measurable benefit. Sourcing of ingredients also can be concerning, as they may not always meet manufacturer, physician, or patient expectations for characterization or efficacy.28,29 Dry testing, which is when a manufacturer contracts a laboratory to certify their ingredients without performing assays, has been increasingly reported in lay and botanical literature over the last few years.30

It is unknown if many nature-based products clinically exhibit their stated efficacy. Empirical evidence or well-conducted clinical studies on which to base recommendations of these products are limited. Individual natural ingredients, however, do have some supporting evidence of efficacy: shea butter moisturizes31; coconut oil exhibits anti-inflammatory properties32,33; and vinegar, yogurt, and diluted tea tree oil exhibit antibacterial properties in postprocedure care and fungal infections, and as adjuvants to prescription antibiotics in atopic dermatitis, acne, and rosacea.34-41 Honey also has been shown to improve wound healing and is even available as a medical device for wounds.42,43 Although nature-based products are an interesting alternative to synthetic products, they require a fulsome understanding of characteristics and efficacy properties to support physician recommendations.

Physician Recommendations

Physicians must be educated to understand when and how to recommend nature-based products. Although we recommend increased product information to guide physicians, current laws, including the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, are satisfactory from a regulatory standpoint.44 Here, we discuss the information physicians could use to support an informed recommendation of nature-based products.

A clear specific explanation of natural ingredient sources, their intended efficacy, and rigorous scientific clinical evidence supporting their use should be given. Manufacturers are needed to document and report the structure and function of natural ingredients, leading to a common understanding by practicing dermatologists.45 For this reason, manufacturers must provide nonambiguous and standardized methods and measures to demonstrate the mechanism of ingredient efficacy and the limits of safety and tolerability.

We recommend that manufacturers provide standardized transparency into the composition of nature-based formulations, including amounts and concentrations of ingredients; geographic sources; parts of plants used; and if extracted, what agent(s) this standard is based on (eg, hypericin in Saint-John’s-wort or kavalactones in kava kava). Most natural products contain an aqueous phase and therefore will likely require preservatives such as synthetic parabens or alcohols to avoid degradation. Unnecessary ingredients, including fragrances, fillers, and support chemicals, should be absent since inert agents may exhibit biologic effects, obscuring the boundary between active and inert. A clear explanation of the origins of these nature-based ingredients and the concentration, purity, and activity assessment should be provided. In the context of an authoritative review with standardized measures, labels that provide the common name, plant name, part used, how it was obtained, concentrations and/or amounts, and standardized activity measures can be helpful to the recommending physician, who will then know the efficacy patients should expect from the ingredients. They also can assess the expected tolerability based on the concentrations and their own experience managing a particular disorder, tempered by the patient’s experiences with prior therapies. Transparent and standardized labeling describing the formulation, quantities of ingredients, and intended activity will help inform expectations of efficacy.

We recommend clear preclinical and clinical demonstrations of the efficacy and benefits that are claimed by nature-based formulations. Properly designed placebo- or active-controlled, blinded, randomized studies with standardized measures and end points are recommended to determine efficacy and safety. These demonstrations of efficacy can provide physicians with credible evidence on which to base their recommendations and guide the use of products for the patient’s best experience. Given sufficient involvement from manufacturers and publication of the information in peer-reviewed journals, the relative benefits for each nature-based product can be cataloged as a resource for physicians.

Conclusion

Patients turn to nature-based products for many reasons. They have high expectations but also harbor concerns as to the efficacy of these products for skin and health care. Physicians seek to recommend nature-based products for these patients but often find themselves disadvantaged by limited published evidence and insufficient labeling information on composition and efficacy, which should support recommendations for use. To remedy this situation, we suggest research to allow a clear explanation of the activity of natural ingredients, clear demonstrations of the efficacy of nature-based formulas using clinical standardized measures and end points, and clear education and disclosure of ingredients contained within nature-based products.

Acknowledgments—Burt’s Bees (Durham, North Carolina) provided funding for editorial support by Medical Dynamics, Inc (New York, New York).

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