NEW YORK – For has been found highly effective, Wendy Roberts, MD, reported at the Skin of Color Update 2019.
Dr. Wendy Roberts
“We didn’t have great treatments for this problem in the past, but the technology has evolved, and you can now get most women clear,” Dr. Roberts, a dermatologist who practices in Rancho Mirage, Calif., said at the meeting.
This approach is appropriate in all women, but Dr. Roberts focused on her experience with black patients, for whom an antioxidant cream is added to address the inflammatory-associated hyperpigmentation that often accompanies pseudofolliculitis barbae, a chronic inflammatory skin condition typically characterized by small, painful papules and pustules.
Start with microdermabrasion to treat the hypertrophic hair follicles and address keratin plugs, Dr. Roberts said. The microdermabrasion smooths the skin and increases penetration of subsequent creams and topics, she said.
“In the same session, I treat with Nd-YAG 1064 nm laser using short pulses,” she noted. For black women, she makes four passes with the laser at a level of moderate intensity. For those with lighter skin, she might perform as many as six passes with the laser set higher.
The microdermabrasion is repeated monthly for three or four treatments, but can be extended for those with persistent symptoms, Dr. Roberts pointed out. She presented a case of a patient who required seven treatments to achieve a satisfactory response.
Patients are instructed to avoid hair plucking and over the course of treatment nightly topical tretinoin is recommended for maintenance. Regular use of emollients is also recommended. For black women who have developed hyperpigmentation as a complication of pseudofolliculitis barbae, Dr. Roberts prescribes a lightening cream.
“I have pretty much moved away from hydroquinone,” said Dr. Roberts, explaining that she has achieved better results with topical cysteamine, a product that she has been using for about 3 years.
In outlining her treatment strategy, she employed case studies of two black women, both of whom achieved resolution of the problem and were satisfied with the results. She said that the same approach is suitable for women of other racial and ethnic groups.
Most commonly seen in black men, pseudofolliculitis barbae – also known as razor bumps – can occur as a complication of shaving in men or women from any racial and ethnic group. However, because of their embarrassment, women often fail to volunteer that they are struggling with this problem. Some women have been afflicted for years and have developed a regular routine of shaving or plucking hairs and then applying makeup for camouflage, Dr. Roberts said.
“This is a patient who rarely presents the problem to the dermatologist. Yet, she is in every one of our practices,” she added. Due to the frequency with which she has identified pseudofolliculitis barbae in patients who are being seen for a different complaint, she now routinely asks patients about this issue when taking a history. Early detection is useful because pseudofolliculitis barbae is more easily resolved in younger women than in older women.
When the problem is resolved, patient satisfaction is very high. For this reason, Dr. Roberts called diagnosis and treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae “a practice builder.” Based on her approach, “you can really get these ladies clear.”
Dr. Roberts reports financial relationships with an extensive list of companies that market dermatologic and cosmetic products.