However, Levin et al. noted in 2010 that while the effects of kinetin have been established in plants and its antioxidant properties have been displayed in vitro, the anti-aging effects and clinical efficacy ascribed to kinetin have been based on limited evidence, with no studies extant on the percutaneous absorption of kinetin. They added that research elucidating the mechanisms through which kinetin appears to improve skin barrier function, texture, and pigmentation also are lacking (J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 2010;3:22-41).
In 2012, Campos et al. assessed the effects on hydration, viscoelastic characteristics, and photoprotection of cosmetic preparations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid, and kinetin. They observed that the formulation protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV harm. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the combination product was found to have improved moisturization of the stratum corneum, also delivering hydration effects to deeper skin layers. The researchers concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing kinetin shows promise as a cutaneous anti-aging product (Photochem. Photobiol. 2012;88:748-52).
Conclusion
While some experimental and clinical results appear to suggest an anti-aging effect exerted by topically applied kinetin, much more research – particularly randomized controlled and comparison studies – are needed to provide a clearer picture as to the mechanisms and appropriate role of kinetin in the dermatologic armamentarium.
Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy,Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.