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Subscription services a consideration for aesthetic patients
According to W. Grant Stevens, MD, an estimated 73% of aesthetic patients fall short when it comes to compliance with recommended treatment intervals for toxins, fillers, and other procedures.
“When we talk about how often the average patient should be treated with Botox, for instance, we say every 3-4 months,” Dr. Stevens, founder and CEO of Marina Plastic Surgery in Marina Del Rey, Calif., said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. But in reality, he added, “it’s more like every 7 months.” A 2015 survey of 23 Bay Area aesthetic practices conducted by HintMD found that 73% of patients were noncompliant and that they came in fewer than 3-4 times per year for treatments. “Not only did they come in infrequently, but they oftentimes were undercorrected and the revenue was being left on the table because of discounting and undercorrection,” said Dr. Stevens, who is also a professor of surgery in the division of plastic surgery at the University of Southern California, Los Angeles.
On average, each patient from the 23 practices surveyed spent $601.88 on treatments 1.44 times per year, yet the industry standard for neuromodulators is 3-4 times per year and every 2 months for HydraFacials and med spa facials. “What’s the problem?” he asked “Why are we falling off? For our practices, noncompliance leads to unhappy, undertreated patients, so they may write negative reviews. In addition to that, we lose revenue.” He cited results from a 2016 focus group of aesthetic patients who were asked about the perceived barriers to treatment compliance. More than two-thirds (68%) said cost was the issue, followed by the number of treatments required (43%) and effectiveness (16%).
Three years ago, Dr. Stevens used the HintMD platform to implement a treatment plan subscription service to 472 active members of his practice. Prior to implementation, patients were coming in for treatment with toxins an average of 1.8 times per year. After implementation, that rose to an average of 3.1 times per year. “That was almost an $800 incremental average increase spent on toxins alone,” Dr. Stevens said. “More importantly, the patients were therapeutic all year long.” With toxin and filler services combined, the average increased income grew to more than $1,100 per patient, which translated into increased annual revenue of $519,200.
Dr. Stevens said that many of his patients favor subscription services because most use them in other aspects of their lives, such as with Amazon Prime, Blue Apron, and Netflix. “They like it because it is personalized and customized,” he said. “If we want to adjust the amount of toxin or filler, we can do it that very day, and it’s customized for them. It’s not a one-size-fits-all program. It also allows them to have convenient, smaller monthly payments. That’s the key. That way, they budget. So, if they’re spending $200 a month or $500 a month or $1,000 a month, it’s a convenient monthly payment.”
Dr. Stevens disclosed that he is an adviser to Viveve, Venus, Aesthetics Biomedical, Alastin, Cypris Medical, Allergan, CoolSculpting, HydraFacial, Revance, Ampersand, and HintMD.
According to W. Grant Stevens, MD, an estimated 73% of aesthetic patients fall short when it comes to compliance with recommended treatment intervals for toxins, fillers, and other procedures.
“When we talk about how often the average patient should be treated with Botox, for instance, we say every 3-4 months,” Dr. Stevens, founder and CEO of Marina Plastic Surgery in Marina Del Rey, Calif., said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. But in reality, he added, “it’s more like every 7 months.” A 2015 survey of 23 Bay Area aesthetic practices conducted by HintMD found that 73% of patients were noncompliant and that they came in fewer than 3-4 times per year for treatments. “Not only did they come in infrequently, but they oftentimes were undercorrected and the revenue was being left on the table because of discounting and undercorrection,” said Dr. Stevens, who is also a professor of surgery in the division of plastic surgery at the University of Southern California, Los Angeles.
On average, each patient from the 23 practices surveyed spent $601.88 on treatments 1.44 times per year, yet the industry standard for neuromodulators is 3-4 times per year and every 2 months for HydraFacials and med spa facials. “What’s the problem?” he asked “Why are we falling off? For our practices, noncompliance leads to unhappy, undertreated patients, so they may write negative reviews. In addition to that, we lose revenue.” He cited results from a 2016 focus group of aesthetic patients who were asked about the perceived barriers to treatment compliance. More than two-thirds (68%) said cost was the issue, followed by the number of treatments required (43%) and effectiveness (16%).
Three years ago, Dr. Stevens used the HintMD platform to implement a treatment plan subscription service to 472 active members of his practice. Prior to implementation, patients were coming in for treatment with toxins an average of 1.8 times per year. After implementation, that rose to an average of 3.1 times per year. “That was almost an $800 incremental average increase spent on toxins alone,” Dr. Stevens said. “More importantly, the patients were therapeutic all year long.” With toxin and filler services combined, the average increased income grew to more than $1,100 per patient, which translated into increased annual revenue of $519,200.
Dr. Stevens said that many of his patients favor subscription services because most use them in other aspects of their lives, such as with Amazon Prime, Blue Apron, and Netflix. “They like it because it is personalized and customized,” he said. “If we want to adjust the amount of toxin or filler, we can do it that very day, and it’s customized for them. It’s not a one-size-fits-all program. It also allows them to have convenient, smaller monthly payments. That’s the key. That way, they budget. So, if they’re spending $200 a month or $500 a month or $1,000 a month, it’s a convenient monthly payment.”
Dr. Stevens disclosed that he is an adviser to Viveve, Venus, Aesthetics Biomedical, Alastin, Cypris Medical, Allergan, CoolSculpting, HydraFacial, Revance, Ampersand, and HintMD.
According to W. Grant Stevens, MD, an estimated 73% of aesthetic patients fall short when it comes to compliance with recommended treatment intervals for toxins, fillers, and other procedures.
“When we talk about how often the average patient should be treated with Botox, for instance, we say every 3-4 months,” Dr. Stevens, founder and CEO of Marina Plastic Surgery in Marina Del Rey, Calif., said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. But in reality, he added, “it’s more like every 7 months.” A 2015 survey of 23 Bay Area aesthetic practices conducted by HintMD found that 73% of patients were noncompliant and that they came in fewer than 3-4 times per year for treatments. “Not only did they come in infrequently, but they oftentimes were undercorrected and the revenue was being left on the table because of discounting and undercorrection,” said Dr. Stevens, who is also a professor of surgery in the division of plastic surgery at the University of Southern California, Los Angeles.
On average, each patient from the 23 practices surveyed spent $601.88 on treatments 1.44 times per year, yet the industry standard for neuromodulators is 3-4 times per year and every 2 months for HydraFacials and med spa facials. “What’s the problem?” he asked “Why are we falling off? For our practices, noncompliance leads to unhappy, undertreated patients, so they may write negative reviews. In addition to that, we lose revenue.” He cited results from a 2016 focus group of aesthetic patients who were asked about the perceived barriers to treatment compliance. More than two-thirds (68%) said cost was the issue, followed by the number of treatments required (43%) and effectiveness (16%).
Three years ago, Dr. Stevens used the HintMD platform to implement a treatment plan subscription service to 472 active members of his practice. Prior to implementation, patients were coming in for treatment with toxins an average of 1.8 times per year. After implementation, that rose to an average of 3.1 times per year. “That was almost an $800 incremental average increase spent on toxins alone,” Dr. Stevens said. “More importantly, the patients were therapeutic all year long.” With toxin and filler services combined, the average increased income grew to more than $1,100 per patient, which translated into increased annual revenue of $519,200.
Dr. Stevens said that many of his patients favor subscription services because most use them in other aspects of their lives, such as with Amazon Prime, Blue Apron, and Netflix. “They like it because it is personalized and customized,” he said. “If we want to adjust the amount of toxin or filler, we can do it that very day, and it’s customized for them. It’s not a one-size-fits-all program. It also allows them to have convenient, smaller monthly payments. That’s the key. That way, they budget. So, if they’re spending $200 a month or $500 a month or $1,000 a month, it’s a convenient monthly payment.”
Dr. Stevens disclosed that he is an adviser to Viveve, Venus, Aesthetics Biomedical, Alastin, Cypris Medical, Allergan, CoolSculpting, HydraFacial, Revance, Ampersand, and HintMD.
FROM MOA 2020
New technologies show promise for treating pigmented lesions
carry a higher risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation than intense pulsed light or the long-pulsed laser, according to Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD.
For treating melanosomes with selective photothermolysis, some of the peak wavelengths include 532 nm, 694 nm, 755 nm, and 1064 nm, Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “The ideal target is fair skin with a dark, pigmented lesion,” he said. “That way you’re going to get energy focused to the melanin that’s in the lesion itself.”
Q-switched and picosecond lasers are effective for pigmented lesions. These employ as much energy as the city of Boston for 20-30 billionths of a second, or 750 picoseconds. “This raises the temperature to 1,000° C in that time, which produces the characteristic epidermal whitening,” he said. “This targets pigment cells only, whether it’s exogenous or endogenous pigment.”
Benign pigmented lesions amenable to the Q-switched nanosecond and picosecond laser include lentigines and nevus of Ota/Ito. The mechanism of action for clinical lightening is fragmentation and release of melanin-laden cells and the gradual uptake and removal of fragments by activated macrophages into lymphatic vessels. “For effective results, do not blindly memorize settings or replicate recommended settings from a colleague or a device manufacturer,” advised Dr. Avram, who practiced law prior to becoming a physician. “Some lasers are not externally calibrated, so what you have to do is pay attention to the laser endpoint, which in this case is epidermal whitening. Tissue ‘splatter’ is an unsafe endpoint and may lead to scarring. Safe and unsafe laser endpoints and close clinical observation are the best means to avoid complications and get the best results for your patients. The key finding is the endpoint, not the energy settings.”
Pigmented lesions that should not be treated with a laser include atypical nevi, lentigo maligna, and other forms of melanoma. “When in doubt, perform a biopsy,” he said. “Regardless of who referred the case, you are liable if you treat a melanoma with a laser. This is not only misdiagnosis but it probably delays diagnosis as well. If you cannot recognize basis pigmented lesion morphology, do not treat pigmented lesions. At some point, it’s going to catch up with you.”
Patients with more pigment to their skin face a higher risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, Dr. Avram continued. While longer pulsed lasers produce less hyperpigmentation, they’re also less effective at getting rid of lesions. “You can combine a long-pulsed laser with fractional resurfacing or IPL [intense pulsed light] to optimize improvement,” he said. “If you don’t have two lasers to use, you can just use a longer-pulsed laser. The desired treatment endpoint for this approach is an ashen gray appearance.” Options include a 532-nm Nd:YAG laser with or without cooling, a 595-nm pulsed dye laser without cooling, and a 755-nm alexandrite laser without cooling.
One advance in the treatment of seborrheic keratoses is Nano-Pulse Stimulation (NPS), a novel technology being developed by Pulse Biosciences. With this approach, nanosecond electrical energy pulses cause internal organelle disruption, which leads to regulated cell death. “The cell-specific effect is nonthermal, as a typical nano-pulse delivers 0.1 joules of energy distributed in a volume of tissue,” Dr. Avram said. Early human studies established safe doses and validation of mechanism hypothesis for benign-lesion efficacy. “What you have are tiny nanopores that allow calcium ions to flow into the cell,” he explained. “The nanopores in the endoplasmic reticulum allow calcium ions to flow out of the endoplasmic reticulum, stressing it. These nanopores in the mitochondria disrupt the ability to generate energy, and the cell dies.”
Histology has revealed that within days the procedure causes regulated cell death with no thermal effects. The ability of NPS energy to clear seborrheic keratoses (SK) was confirmed in a study of 58 subjects who had 174 SK lesions treated. The majority of SKs (82%) were rated as clear or mostly clear 106 days post treatment. All results reflected a single treatment session.
Another novel treatment, “cryomodulation,” a technology being developed by R. Rox Anderson, MD, Dieter Manstein, MD, PhD, and Henry Chan, MD, PhD, expresses cold-induced change to the skin as a way to pause melanin production. “You get melanin production paused but melanocyte function is preserved,” Dr. Avram explained. “There is a normal epidermal barrier and no persistent inflammatory response, so there’s no hyperpigmentation.” He characterized it as an ease-of-use clinical procedure for treating benign lesions in all skin types. A mask is applied to confine freezing to the desired treatment area, and hydrated gauze is used to help facilitate ice crystal propagation. A prototype of the device features a parameter selection based on lesion type, anatomical location, and skin type. “It uses between 107 and 166 kJ/m2 of extracted energy, and you take photos at baseline and follow-up,” he said. “You get 2-3 days of redness, darkening, and swelling. It’s well tolerated, with minimal discomfort. There’s no long-term dyschromia. This is nice, because patients have little, if any, downtime.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, and Soliton. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis.
carry a higher risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation than intense pulsed light or the long-pulsed laser, according to Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD.
For treating melanosomes with selective photothermolysis, some of the peak wavelengths include 532 nm, 694 nm, 755 nm, and 1064 nm, Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “The ideal target is fair skin with a dark, pigmented lesion,” he said. “That way you’re going to get energy focused to the melanin that’s in the lesion itself.”
Q-switched and picosecond lasers are effective for pigmented lesions. These employ as much energy as the city of Boston for 20-30 billionths of a second, or 750 picoseconds. “This raises the temperature to 1,000° C in that time, which produces the characteristic epidermal whitening,” he said. “This targets pigment cells only, whether it’s exogenous or endogenous pigment.”
Benign pigmented lesions amenable to the Q-switched nanosecond and picosecond laser include lentigines and nevus of Ota/Ito. The mechanism of action for clinical lightening is fragmentation and release of melanin-laden cells and the gradual uptake and removal of fragments by activated macrophages into lymphatic vessels. “For effective results, do not blindly memorize settings or replicate recommended settings from a colleague or a device manufacturer,” advised Dr. Avram, who practiced law prior to becoming a physician. “Some lasers are not externally calibrated, so what you have to do is pay attention to the laser endpoint, which in this case is epidermal whitening. Tissue ‘splatter’ is an unsafe endpoint and may lead to scarring. Safe and unsafe laser endpoints and close clinical observation are the best means to avoid complications and get the best results for your patients. The key finding is the endpoint, not the energy settings.”
Pigmented lesions that should not be treated with a laser include atypical nevi, lentigo maligna, and other forms of melanoma. “When in doubt, perform a biopsy,” he said. “Regardless of who referred the case, you are liable if you treat a melanoma with a laser. This is not only misdiagnosis but it probably delays diagnosis as well. If you cannot recognize basis pigmented lesion morphology, do not treat pigmented lesions. At some point, it’s going to catch up with you.”
Patients with more pigment to their skin face a higher risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, Dr. Avram continued. While longer pulsed lasers produce less hyperpigmentation, they’re also less effective at getting rid of lesions. “You can combine a long-pulsed laser with fractional resurfacing or IPL [intense pulsed light] to optimize improvement,” he said. “If you don’t have two lasers to use, you can just use a longer-pulsed laser. The desired treatment endpoint for this approach is an ashen gray appearance.” Options include a 532-nm Nd:YAG laser with or without cooling, a 595-nm pulsed dye laser without cooling, and a 755-nm alexandrite laser without cooling.
One advance in the treatment of seborrheic keratoses is Nano-Pulse Stimulation (NPS), a novel technology being developed by Pulse Biosciences. With this approach, nanosecond electrical energy pulses cause internal organelle disruption, which leads to regulated cell death. “The cell-specific effect is nonthermal, as a typical nano-pulse delivers 0.1 joules of energy distributed in a volume of tissue,” Dr. Avram said. Early human studies established safe doses and validation of mechanism hypothesis for benign-lesion efficacy. “What you have are tiny nanopores that allow calcium ions to flow into the cell,” he explained. “The nanopores in the endoplasmic reticulum allow calcium ions to flow out of the endoplasmic reticulum, stressing it. These nanopores in the mitochondria disrupt the ability to generate energy, and the cell dies.”
Histology has revealed that within days the procedure causes regulated cell death with no thermal effects. The ability of NPS energy to clear seborrheic keratoses (SK) was confirmed in a study of 58 subjects who had 174 SK lesions treated. The majority of SKs (82%) were rated as clear or mostly clear 106 days post treatment. All results reflected a single treatment session.
Another novel treatment, “cryomodulation,” a technology being developed by R. Rox Anderson, MD, Dieter Manstein, MD, PhD, and Henry Chan, MD, PhD, expresses cold-induced change to the skin as a way to pause melanin production. “You get melanin production paused but melanocyte function is preserved,” Dr. Avram explained. “There is a normal epidermal barrier and no persistent inflammatory response, so there’s no hyperpigmentation.” He characterized it as an ease-of-use clinical procedure for treating benign lesions in all skin types. A mask is applied to confine freezing to the desired treatment area, and hydrated gauze is used to help facilitate ice crystal propagation. A prototype of the device features a parameter selection based on lesion type, anatomical location, and skin type. “It uses between 107 and 166 kJ/m2 of extracted energy, and you take photos at baseline and follow-up,” he said. “You get 2-3 days of redness, darkening, and swelling. It’s well tolerated, with minimal discomfort. There’s no long-term dyschromia. This is nice, because patients have little, if any, downtime.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, and Soliton. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis.
carry a higher risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation than intense pulsed light or the long-pulsed laser, according to Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD.
For treating melanosomes with selective photothermolysis, some of the peak wavelengths include 532 nm, 694 nm, 755 nm, and 1064 nm, Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “The ideal target is fair skin with a dark, pigmented lesion,” he said. “That way you’re going to get energy focused to the melanin that’s in the lesion itself.”
Q-switched and picosecond lasers are effective for pigmented lesions. These employ as much energy as the city of Boston for 20-30 billionths of a second, or 750 picoseconds. “This raises the temperature to 1,000° C in that time, which produces the characteristic epidermal whitening,” he said. “This targets pigment cells only, whether it’s exogenous or endogenous pigment.”
Benign pigmented lesions amenable to the Q-switched nanosecond and picosecond laser include lentigines and nevus of Ota/Ito. The mechanism of action for clinical lightening is fragmentation and release of melanin-laden cells and the gradual uptake and removal of fragments by activated macrophages into lymphatic vessels. “For effective results, do not blindly memorize settings or replicate recommended settings from a colleague or a device manufacturer,” advised Dr. Avram, who practiced law prior to becoming a physician. “Some lasers are not externally calibrated, so what you have to do is pay attention to the laser endpoint, which in this case is epidermal whitening. Tissue ‘splatter’ is an unsafe endpoint and may lead to scarring. Safe and unsafe laser endpoints and close clinical observation are the best means to avoid complications and get the best results for your patients. The key finding is the endpoint, not the energy settings.”
Pigmented lesions that should not be treated with a laser include atypical nevi, lentigo maligna, and other forms of melanoma. “When in doubt, perform a biopsy,” he said. “Regardless of who referred the case, you are liable if you treat a melanoma with a laser. This is not only misdiagnosis but it probably delays diagnosis as well. If you cannot recognize basis pigmented lesion morphology, do not treat pigmented lesions. At some point, it’s going to catch up with you.”
Patients with more pigment to their skin face a higher risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, Dr. Avram continued. While longer pulsed lasers produce less hyperpigmentation, they’re also less effective at getting rid of lesions. “You can combine a long-pulsed laser with fractional resurfacing or IPL [intense pulsed light] to optimize improvement,” he said. “If you don’t have two lasers to use, you can just use a longer-pulsed laser. The desired treatment endpoint for this approach is an ashen gray appearance.” Options include a 532-nm Nd:YAG laser with or without cooling, a 595-nm pulsed dye laser without cooling, and a 755-nm alexandrite laser without cooling.
One advance in the treatment of seborrheic keratoses is Nano-Pulse Stimulation (NPS), a novel technology being developed by Pulse Biosciences. With this approach, nanosecond electrical energy pulses cause internal organelle disruption, which leads to regulated cell death. “The cell-specific effect is nonthermal, as a typical nano-pulse delivers 0.1 joules of energy distributed in a volume of tissue,” Dr. Avram said. Early human studies established safe doses and validation of mechanism hypothesis for benign-lesion efficacy. “What you have are tiny nanopores that allow calcium ions to flow into the cell,” he explained. “The nanopores in the endoplasmic reticulum allow calcium ions to flow out of the endoplasmic reticulum, stressing it. These nanopores in the mitochondria disrupt the ability to generate energy, and the cell dies.”
Histology has revealed that within days the procedure causes regulated cell death with no thermal effects. The ability of NPS energy to clear seborrheic keratoses (SK) was confirmed in a study of 58 subjects who had 174 SK lesions treated. The majority of SKs (82%) were rated as clear or mostly clear 106 days post treatment. All results reflected a single treatment session.
Another novel treatment, “cryomodulation,” a technology being developed by R. Rox Anderson, MD, Dieter Manstein, MD, PhD, and Henry Chan, MD, PhD, expresses cold-induced change to the skin as a way to pause melanin production. “You get melanin production paused but melanocyte function is preserved,” Dr. Avram explained. “There is a normal epidermal barrier and no persistent inflammatory response, so there’s no hyperpigmentation.” He characterized it as an ease-of-use clinical procedure for treating benign lesions in all skin types. A mask is applied to confine freezing to the desired treatment area, and hydrated gauze is used to help facilitate ice crystal propagation. A prototype of the device features a parameter selection based on lesion type, anatomical location, and skin type. “It uses between 107 and 166 kJ/m2 of extracted energy, and you take photos at baseline and follow-up,” he said. “You get 2-3 days of redness, darkening, and swelling. It’s well tolerated, with minimal discomfort. There’s no long-term dyschromia. This is nice, because patients have little, if any, downtime.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, and Soliton. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis.
FROM MOA 2020
Expert offers tips for combining lasers and injectables on the same day
While if it involves the same area.
“Swelling from the laser can potentially make the toxin migrate and cause ptosis,” Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Even though this is temporary, your patient’s not going to be very happy with you. I would separate these at least 1 day apart, and then you should be OK.”
When using a filler on the same day as a laser treatment, Dr. Ortiz, who is director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, performs the laser procedure after injecting the filler, “because you may get some swelling, which can distort your need for filler,” she said. “I like to do the filler first to make sure I can assess how much volume loss they have. Then I’ll do the laser procedure right after.”
Another general rule of thumb is that, when combining lasers on the same day, consider lowering the device settings, “because it’s going to be a more aggressive treatment when you’re combining various laser procedures,” she said. “Treat vascular lesions first to not exacerbate nonspecific erythema. Then treat pigment, then resurfacing, followed by liquid nitrogen if needed to treat seborrheic keratoses.”
For periorbital rejuvenation, Dr. Ortiz likes to use a neurotoxin 1 week before performing the laser-resurfacing or skin-tightening procedure, followed by injection of a filler. “This augments your results,” she said. “Studies have shown that, if you start with a neuromodulator, you can get more improvement with your resurfacing procedure,” she said. “That makes sense, because you’re not contracting the muscle while you’re healing from the laser, so you get more effective collagen remodeling.”
When using a neuromodulator for dynamic periorbital rhytides, place it superficially to avoid bruising and stay superior to the maxillary prominence to avoid the zygomaticus major “so you don’t get a droopy smile,” she said. “The approved dosing is 24 units, 12 on each side. Less may be required for younger patients and more for more severe rhytides.”
For static rhytides, fractional resurfacing procedures will provide a more modest result with less downtime, while fully ablative laser resurfacing procedures will provide more dramatic improvement with more downtime. “You’re really going to tailor your treatment to what the patient is looking for,” Dr. Ortiz said. “If you use a fractional device you may need multiple treatments. Using a corneal shield when you’re resurfacing within the periorbital rim is a must, so you need to know how to place these if you’re going to be resurfacing in that area.”
For anesthesia, Dr. Ortiz likes to use injectable lidocaine, “because if you use a topical it can creep into the eye, and then you get a chemical corneal abrasion. This resolves after a few days but it’s really painful and your patient won’t be very happy.”
For tear troughs, use a hyaluronic acid filler with a low G prime. “If you use a thicker filler it can look lumpy or too full,” she said. While some clinicians use a needle to administer the filler, Dr. Ortiz prefers to use a blunt-tipped cannula. “It’s less painful and there’s less risk of bruising or swelling,” she said. “There’s also less risk of cannulizing a vessel. This is not zero risk. It’s been shown that the 27-gauge can actually cannulize the vessel, so it shouldn’t give you a false sense of security, but there is less risk, compared with using a needle. You can use the cannula to thread. If you’re using a needle you can inject a bolus and then massage it in, or you can use the microdroplet technique.”
With the cannula technique, bruising or swelling can occur even in the most experienced hands, “so make sure your patients don’t have an important event coming up,” Dr. Ortiz said. “With filler, not only do you improve the volume loss, but sometimes you improve the dark circles. I tend to see this more in lighter-skinned patients. In darker-skinned patients, the dark circles can be caused by racial pigmentation. That’s hard to fix, so I never promise that we can improve dark circles, but sometimes it does improve.”
For dynamic perioral rhytides, Dr. Ortiz generally treats with a neuromodulator 1 week in advance of laser resurfacing, followed by a filler for any etched-in lines. Use of a neuromodulator in the perioral region of musicians or singers is contraindicated “because it can affect their phonation,” she said. “Also, older patients might complain that it’s difficult for them to pucker their lips when they’re putting on a lip liner or lipstick. There are four injection sites on the upper lip and two on the lower lip. I do 1 unit at each injection site, with a max of 6-8 units. Any more than that and they’ll have difficulty puckering.”
Two main options for treating submental fullness include cryolipolysis or deoxycholic acid. “If you have a lot of volume, you want to use cryolipolysis,” Dr. Ortiz said. “The general rule is, if it fits in the cup [of the applicator], hook them up.” Use deoxycholic acid for areas of smaller volume, or to fine-tune, she added.
For platysmal bands, Dr. Ortiz favors injecting 2 units of botulinum toxin at three to four sites along the band. She pulls away and injects superficially and limits the treatment dose to 40 units in one session “because excessive doses can cause dysphagia,” she said. “If they need additional units, I’ll have them come back in 2 weeks.”
The Nefertiti lift combines the treatment of the platysma with the insertion point of the platysma along the jawline. Treatment of the patient along the lateral jawline with 2 units of botulinum toxin every centimeter or so can actually improve the definition of the jawline, “because your platysma is pulling down on your lower face,” Dr. Ortiz explained. “So, if you relax that, it can help to define the jawline. By treating the platysma, you can also prevent or soften the horizontal bands that occur across the neck.”
For necklace creases, she likes to inject 1-2 units of a low-HA filler along the crease – evenly spaced all along. “I’ll dilute it even further with 0.5 cc of lidocaine with epinephrine,” she said. “Then you can do serial punctures or you can thread along that line.”
For treating static rhytides on the neck, laser-resurfacing procedures work best, but at low settings. “Because there are fewer adnexal structures, the neck is at increased risk for scarring,” Dr. Ortiz said. “You want to use a lower fluence because your neck skin is thin. Your fluence determines your depth with resurfacing. Most importantly, use a lower density for a more conservative setting”
Options for treating poikiloderma of Civatte include the vascular laser, an IPL [intense pulsed light device], or a 1927-nm thulium laser. To avoid footprinting, or a “chicken wire” appearance to the treated area, Dr. Ortiz recommends using a large spot size with the pulsed dye laser or the IPL.
She concluded her presentation by underscoring the importance of communicating realistic expectations with patients. “There is some delayed gratification here,” she said. “For procedures that take time to see results, consider adding another procedure that will give them immediate results.”
Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with numerous pharmaceutical and device companies. She is also cochair of the MOA.
While if it involves the same area.
“Swelling from the laser can potentially make the toxin migrate and cause ptosis,” Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Even though this is temporary, your patient’s not going to be very happy with you. I would separate these at least 1 day apart, and then you should be OK.”
When using a filler on the same day as a laser treatment, Dr. Ortiz, who is director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, performs the laser procedure after injecting the filler, “because you may get some swelling, which can distort your need for filler,” she said. “I like to do the filler first to make sure I can assess how much volume loss they have. Then I’ll do the laser procedure right after.”
Another general rule of thumb is that, when combining lasers on the same day, consider lowering the device settings, “because it’s going to be a more aggressive treatment when you’re combining various laser procedures,” she said. “Treat vascular lesions first to not exacerbate nonspecific erythema. Then treat pigment, then resurfacing, followed by liquid nitrogen if needed to treat seborrheic keratoses.”
For periorbital rejuvenation, Dr. Ortiz likes to use a neurotoxin 1 week before performing the laser-resurfacing or skin-tightening procedure, followed by injection of a filler. “This augments your results,” she said. “Studies have shown that, if you start with a neuromodulator, you can get more improvement with your resurfacing procedure,” she said. “That makes sense, because you’re not contracting the muscle while you’re healing from the laser, so you get more effective collagen remodeling.”
When using a neuromodulator for dynamic periorbital rhytides, place it superficially to avoid bruising and stay superior to the maxillary prominence to avoid the zygomaticus major “so you don’t get a droopy smile,” she said. “The approved dosing is 24 units, 12 on each side. Less may be required for younger patients and more for more severe rhytides.”
For static rhytides, fractional resurfacing procedures will provide a more modest result with less downtime, while fully ablative laser resurfacing procedures will provide more dramatic improvement with more downtime. “You’re really going to tailor your treatment to what the patient is looking for,” Dr. Ortiz said. “If you use a fractional device you may need multiple treatments. Using a corneal shield when you’re resurfacing within the periorbital rim is a must, so you need to know how to place these if you’re going to be resurfacing in that area.”
For anesthesia, Dr. Ortiz likes to use injectable lidocaine, “because if you use a topical it can creep into the eye, and then you get a chemical corneal abrasion. This resolves after a few days but it’s really painful and your patient won’t be very happy.”
For tear troughs, use a hyaluronic acid filler with a low G prime. “If you use a thicker filler it can look lumpy or too full,” she said. While some clinicians use a needle to administer the filler, Dr. Ortiz prefers to use a blunt-tipped cannula. “It’s less painful and there’s less risk of bruising or swelling,” she said. “There’s also less risk of cannulizing a vessel. This is not zero risk. It’s been shown that the 27-gauge can actually cannulize the vessel, so it shouldn’t give you a false sense of security, but there is less risk, compared with using a needle. You can use the cannula to thread. If you’re using a needle you can inject a bolus and then massage it in, or you can use the microdroplet technique.”
With the cannula technique, bruising or swelling can occur even in the most experienced hands, “so make sure your patients don’t have an important event coming up,” Dr. Ortiz said. “With filler, not only do you improve the volume loss, but sometimes you improve the dark circles. I tend to see this more in lighter-skinned patients. In darker-skinned patients, the dark circles can be caused by racial pigmentation. That’s hard to fix, so I never promise that we can improve dark circles, but sometimes it does improve.”
For dynamic perioral rhytides, Dr. Ortiz generally treats with a neuromodulator 1 week in advance of laser resurfacing, followed by a filler for any etched-in lines. Use of a neuromodulator in the perioral region of musicians or singers is contraindicated “because it can affect their phonation,” she said. “Also, older patients might complain that it’s difficult for them to pucker their lips when they’re putting on a lip liner or lipstick. There are four injection sites on the upper lip and two on the lower lip. I do 1 unit at each injection site, with a max of 6-8 units. Any more than that and they’ll have difficulty puckering.”
Two main options for treating submental fullness include cryolipolysis or deoxycholic acid. “If you have a lot of volume, you want to use cryolipolysis,” Dr. Ortiz said. “The general rule is, if it fits in the cup [of the applicator], hook them up.” Use deoxycholic acid for areas of smaller volume, or to fine-tune, she added.
For platysmal bands, Dr. Ortiz favors injecting 2 units of botulinum toxin at three to four sites along the band. She pulls away and injects superficially and limits the treatment dose to 40 units in one session “because excessive doses can cause dysphagia,” she said. “If they need additional units, I’ll have them come back in 2 weeks.”
The Nefertiti lift combines the treatment of the platysma with the insertion point of the platysma along the jawline. Treatment of the patient along the lateral jawline with 2 units of botulinum toxin every centimeter or so can actually improve the definition of the jawline, “because your platysma is pulling down on your lower face,” Dr. Ortiz explained. “So, if you relax that, it can help to define the jawline. By treating the platysma, you can also prevent or soften the horizontal bands that occur across the neck.”
For necklace creases, she likes to inject 1-2 units of a low-HA filler along the crease – evenly spaced all along. “I’ll dilute it even further with 0.5 cc of lidocaine with epinephrine,” she said. “Then you can do serial punctures or you can thread along that line.”
For treating static rhytides on the neck, laser-resurfacing procedures work best, but at low settings. “Because there are fewer adnexal structures, the neck is at increased risk for scarring,” Dr. Ortiz said. “You want to use a lower fluence because your neck skin is thin. Your fluence determines your depth with resurfacing. Most importantly, use a lower density for a more conservative setting”
Options for treating poikiloderma of Civatte include the vascular laser, an IPL [intense pulsed light device], or a 1927-nm thulium laser. To avoid footprinting, or a “chicken wire” appearance to the treated area, Dr. Ortiz recommends using a large spot size with the pulsed dye laser or the IPL.
She concluded her presentation by underscoring the importance of communicating realistic expectations with patients. “There is some delayed gratification here,” she said. “For procedures that take time to see results, consider adding another procedure that will give them immediate results.”
Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with numerous pharmaceutical and device companies. She is also cochair of the MOA.
While if it involves the same area.
“Swelling from the laser can potentially make the toxin migrate and cause ptosis,” Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Even though this is temporary, your patient’s not going to be very happy with you. I would separate these at least 1 day apart, and then you should be OK.”
When using a filler on the same day as a laser treatment, Dr. Ortiz, who is director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, performs the laser procedure after injecting the filler, “because you may get some swelling, which can distort your need for filler,” she said. “I like to do the filler first to make sure I can assess how much volume loss they have. Then I’ll do the laser procedure right after.”
Another general rule of thumb is that, when combining lasers on the same day, consider lowering the device settings, “because it’s going to be a more aggressive treatment when you’re combining various laser procedures,” she said. “Treat vascular lesions first to not exacerbate nonspecific erythema. Then treat pigment, then resurfacing, followed by liquid nitrogen if needed to treat seborrheic keratoses.”
For periorbital rejuvenation, Dr. Ortiz likes to use a neurotoxin 1 week before performing the laser-resurfacing or skin-tightening procedure, followed by injection of a filler. “This augments your results,” she said. “Studies have shown that, if you start with a neuromodulator, you can get more improvement with your resurfacing procedure,” she said. “That makes sense, because you’re not contracting the muscle while you’re healing from the laser, so you get more effective collagen remodeling.”
When using a neuromodulator for dynamic periorbital rhytides, place it superficially to avoid bruising and stay superior to the maxillary prominence to avoid the zygomaticus major “so you don’t get a droopy smile,” she said. “The approved dosing is 24 units, 12 on each side. Less may be required for younger patients and more for more severe rhytides.”
For static rhytides, fractional resurfacing procedures will provide a more modest result with less downtime, while fully ablative laser resurfacing procedures will provide more dramatic improvement with more downtime. “You’re really going to tailor your treatment to what the patient is looking for,” Dr. Ortiz said. “If you use a fractional device you may need multiple treatments. Using a corneal shield when you’re resurfacing within the periorbital rim is a must, so you need to know how to place these if you’re going to be resurfacing in that area.”
For anesthesia, Dr. Ortiz likes to use injectable lidocaine, “because if you use a topical it can creep into the eye, and then you get a chemical corneal abrasion. This resolves after a few days but it’s really painful and your patient won’t be very happy.”
For tear troughs, use a hyaluronic acid filler with a low G prime. “If you use a thicker filler it can look lumpy or too full,” she said. While some clinicians use a needle to administer the filler, Dr. Ortiz prefers to use a blunt-tipped cannula. “It’s less painful and there’s less risk of bruising or swelling,” she said. “There’s also less risk of cannulizing a vessel. This is not zero risk. It’s been shown that the 27-gauge can actually cannulize the vessel, so it shouldn’t give you a false sense of security, but there is less risk, compared with using a needle. You can use the cannula to thread. If you’re using a needle you can inject a bolus and then massage it in, or you can use the microdroplet technique.”
With the cannula technique, bruising or swelling can occur even in the most experienced hands, “so make sure your patients don’t have an important event coming up,” Dr. Ortiz said. “With filler, not only do you improve the volume loss, but sometimes you improve the dark circles. I tend to see this more in lighter-skinned patients. In darker-skinned patients, the dark circles can be caused by racial pigmentation. That’s hard to fix, so I never promise that we can improve dark circles, but sometimes it does improve.”
For dynamic perioral rhytides, Dr. Ortiz generally treats with a neuromodulator 1 week in advance of laser resurfacing, followed by a filler for any etched-in lines. Use of a neuromodulator in the perioral region of musicians or singers is contraindicated “because it can affect their phonation,” she said. “Also, older patients might complain that it’s difficult for them to pucker their lips when they’re putting on a lip liner or lipstick. There are four injection sites on the upper lip and two on the lower lip. I do 1 unit at each injection site, with a max of 6-8 units. Any more than that and they’ll have difficulty puckering.”
Two main options for treating submental fullness include cryolipolysis or deoxycholic acid. “If you have a lot of volume, you want to use cryolipolysis,” Dr. Ortiz said. “The general rule is, if it fits in the cup [of the applicator], hook them up.” Use deoxycholic acid for areas of smaller volume, or to fine-tune, she added.
For platysmal bands, Dr. Ortiz favors injecting 2 units of botulinum toxin at three to four sites along the band. She pulls away and injects superficially and limits the treatment dose to 40 units in one session “because excessive doses can cause dysphagia,” she said. “If they need additional units, I’ll have them come back in 2 weeks.”
The Nefertiti lift combines the treatment of the platysma with the insertion point of the platysma along the jawline. Treatment of the patient along the lateral jawline with 2 units of botulinum toxin every centimeter or so can actually improve the definition of the jawline, “because your platysma is pulling down on your lower face,” Dr. Ortiz explained. “So, if you relax that, it can help to define the jawline. By treating the platysma, you can also prevent or soften the horizontal bands that occur across the neck.”
For necklace creases, she likes to inject 1-2 units of a low-HA filler along the crease – evenly spaced all along. “I’ll dilute it even further with 0.5 cc of lidocaine with epinephrine,” she said. “Then you can do serial punctures or you can thread along that line.”
For treating static rhytides on the neck, laser-resurfacing procedures work best, but at low settings. “Because there are fewer adnexal structures, the neck is at increased risk for scarring,” Dr. Ortiz said. “You want to use a lower fluence because your neck skin is thin. Your fluence determines your depth with resurfacing. Most importantly, use a lower density for a more conservative setting”
Options for treating poikiloderma of Civatte include the vascular laser, an IPL [intense pulsed light device], or a 1927-nm thulium laser. To avoid footprinting, or a “chicken wire” appearance to the treated area, Dr. Ortiz recommends using a large spot size with the pulsed dye laser or the IPL.
She concluded her presentation by underscoring the importance of communicating realistic expectations with patients. “There is some delayed gratification here,” she said. “For procedures that take time to see results, consider adding another procedure that will give them immediate results.”
Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with numerous pharmaceutical and device companies. She is also cochair of the MOA.
EXPERT ANALYSIS FROM MOA 2020
Expert spotlights recent advances in the medical treatment of acne
During the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium, he highlighted the following new acne treatment options:
- Trifarotene cream 0.005% (Aklief). This marks the first new retinoid indicated for acne in several decades. It is indicated for the topical treatment of acne vulgaris in patients 9 years of age and older and has been studied in acne of the face, chest, and back. “It’s nice to have in our armamentarium,” he said.
- Tazarotene lotion 0.045% (Arazlo). The 0.1% formulation of tazarotene is commonly used for acne, but it can cause skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. The new 0.045% formulation was developed in a three-dimensional mesh matrix, with ingredients from an oil-in-water emulsion. “This allows for graduated dosing on the skin without as much irritation,” said Dr. Eichenfield, who is chief of pediatric and adolescent dermatology at Rady Children’s Hospital, San Diego.
- Minocycline 4% topical foam (Amzeeq). This marks the first and only topical minocycline prescription treatment for acne. “Its hydrophobic composition allows for stable and efficient delivery of inherently unstable pharmaceutical ingredients,” he said. “There is no evidence of photosensitivity as you’d expect from a minocycline-based product, and there are low systemic levels compared with oral minocycline.”
- Clascoterone cream 1% (Winlevi). This first-in-class topical androgen receptor inhibitor has been approved for the treatment of acne in patients 12 years and older. It competes with dihydrotestosterone and selectively targets androgen receptors in sebocytes and hair papilla cells. “It has been studied on the face and trunk and has been shown to inhibit sebum production, reduce secretion of inflammatory cytokines, and inhibit inflammatory pathways,” said Dr. Eichenfield, who is also professor of dermatology and pediatrics at the University of California, San Diego.
- From a systemic standpoint, sarecycline, a new tetracycline class antibiotic, has been approved for the treatment of inflammatory lesions of nonnodular moderate to severe acne vulgaris in patients 9 years and older. The once-daily drug can be taken with or without food in a weight-based dose. “This medicine appears to have a narrow spectrum of antibacterial activity compared with other tetracyclines,” he said. “It may have less of a negative effect on gut microbiome than traditional oral antibiotics.”
As for integrating these new options into existing clinical practice, Dr. Eichenfield predicts that the general approach to acne treatment will remain the same. “We’ll have to wait to see where the topical androgens fit into the treatment algorithms,” he said. “Our goal is to minimize scarring, minimize disease, and to modulate the disease course.”
Dr. Eichenfield disclosed that he has been an investigator and/or consultant for Almirall, Cassiopea, Dermata, Foamix, Galderma, L’Oreal, and Ortho Dermatologics.
During the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium, he highlighted the following new acne treatment options:
- Trifarotene cream 0.005% (Aklief). This marks the first new retinoid indicated for acne in several decades. It is indicated for the topical treatment of acne vulgaris in patients 9 years of age and older and has been studied in acne of the face, chest, and back. “It’s nice to have in our armamentarium,” he said.
- Tazarotene lotion 0.045% (Arazlo). The 0.1% formulation of tazarotene is commonly used for acne, but it can cause skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. The new 0.045% formulation was developed in a three-dimensional mesh matrix, with ingredients from an oil-in-water emulsion. “This allows for graduated dosing on the skin without as much irritation,” said Dr. Eichenfield, who is chief of pediatric and adolescent dermatology at Rady Children’s Hospital, San Diego.
- Minocycline 4% topical foam (Amzeeq). This marks the first and only topical minocycline prescription treatment for acne. “Its hydrophobic composition allows for stable and efficient delivery of inherently unstable pharmaceutical ingredients,” he said. “There is no evidence of photosensitivity as you’d expect from a minocycline-based product, and there are low systemic levels compared with oral minocycline.”
- Clascoterone cream 1% (Winlevi). This first-in-class topical androgen receptor inhibitor has been approved for the treatment of acne in patients 12 years and older. It competes with dihydrotestosterone and selectively targets androgen receptors in sebocytes and hair papilla cells. “It has been studied on the face and trunk and has been shown to inhibit sebum production, reduce secretion of inflammatory cytokines, and inhibit inflammatory pathways,” said Dr. Eichenfield, who is also professor of dermatology and pediatrics at the University of California, San Diego.
- From a systemic standpoint, sarecycline, a new tetracycline class antibiotic, has been approved for the treatment of inflammatory lesions of nonnodular moderate to severe acne vulgaris in patients 9 years and older. The once-daily drug can be taken with or without food in a weight-based dose. “This medicine appears to have a narrow spectrum of antibacterial activity compared with other tetracyclines,” he said. “It may have less of a negative effect on gut microbiome than traditional oral antibiotics.”
As for integrating these new options into existing clinical practice, Dr. Eichenfield predicts that the general approach to acne treatment will remain the same. “We’ll have to wait to see where the topical androgens fit into the treatment algorithms,” he said. “Our goal is to minimize scarring, minimize disease, and to modulate the disease course.”
Dr. Eichenfield disclosed that he has been an investigator and/or consultant for Almirall, Cassiopea, Dermata, Foamix, Galderma, L’Oreal, and Ortho Dermatologics.
During the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium, he highlighted the following new acne treatment options:
- Trifarotene cream 0.005% (Aklief). This marks the first new retinoid indicated for acne in several decades. It is indicated for the topical treatment of acne vulgaris in patients 9 years of age and older and has been studied in acne of the face, chest, and back. “It’s nice to have in our armamentarium,” he said.
- Tazarotene lotion 0.045% (Arazlo). The 0.1% formulation of tazarotene is commonly used for acne, but it can cause skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. The new 0.045% formulation was developed in a three-dimensional mesh matrix, with ingredients from an oil-in-water emulsion. “This allows for graduated dosing on the skin without as much irritation,” said Dr. Eichenfield, who is chief of pediatric and adolescent dermatology at Rady Children’s Hospital, San Diego.
- Minocycline 4% topical foam (Amzeeq). This marks the first and only topical minocycline prescription treatment for acne. “Its hydrophobic composition allows for stable and efficient delivery of inherently unstable pharmaceutical ingredients,” he said. “There is no evidence of photosensitivity as you’d expect from a minocycline-based product, and there are low systemic levels compared with oral minocycline.”
- Clascoterone cream 1% (Winlevi). This first-in-class topical androgen receptor inhibitor has been approved for the treatment of acne in patients 12 years and older. It competes with dihydrotestosterone and selectively targets androgen receptors in sebocytes and hair papilla cells. “It has been studied on the face and trunk and has been shown to inhibit sebum production, reduce secretion of inflammatory cytokines, and inhibit inflammatory pathways,” said Dr. Eichenfield, who is also professor of dermatology and pediatrics at the University of California, San Diego.
- From a systemic standpoint, sarecycline, a new tetracycline class antibiotic, has been approved for the treatment of inflammatory lesions of nonnodular moderate to severe acne vulgaris in patients 9 years and older. The once-daily drug can be taken with or without food in a weight-based dose. “This medicine appears to have a narrow spectrum of antibacterial activity compared with other tetracyclines,” he said. “It may have less of a negative effect on gut microbiome than traditional oral antibiotics.”
As for integrating these new options into existing clinical practice, Dr. Eichenfield predicts that the general approach to acne treatment will remain the same. “We’ll have to wait to see where the topical androgens fit into the treatment algorithms,” he said. “Our goal is to minimize scarring, minimize disease, and to modulate the disease course.”
Dr. Eichenfield disclosed that he has been an investigator and/or consultant for Almirall, Cassiopea, Dermata, Foamix, Galderma, L’Oreal, and Ortho Dermatologics.
FROM MOA 2020
‘Dr. Pimple Popper’ shares her social media tips
The way Sandra Lee, MD, sees it, establishing a presence on Instagram, Twitter, and other social media channels may not float your boat, but its potential influence deserves your attention.
“We can no longer hide from social media; it is part of our lives now,” Dr. Lee, a dermatologist who practices in Upland, Calif., said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You’re missing some real opportunities without it.”
In October of 2014, Dr. Lee began using Instagram to provide followers a glimpse into her life as a dermatologist, everything from Mohs surgery and Botox to keloid removals and ear lobe repair surgeries. “Early on, I happened to post an extraction video,” she recalled. “It got a notable increase in attention. I thought it was weird. I did it again, and it happened again. I just started posting extraction videos every day: finding blackheads and whiteheads or milia or whatnot on my patients and just posting them. I watched in amazement as followers’ comments and attention grew.”
Soon after Dr. Lee started posting videos, she discovered Reddit, which has a subreddit for “popping addicts” and the “pop-curious,” she said. “It’s a group of tens of thousands of people who share popping videos with each other,” she explained. “I thought that was really strange. I also thought that maybe I could be their queen, so I decided to share my videos there. This meant that I would have to start a YouTube channel where I could upload my videos.”
With this, Dr. Lee formed her alter ego, “Dr. Pimple Popper,” and became a YouTube sensation, building 6.6 million subscribers over the course of a few years. She also grew 4 million followers on Instagram, 2.9 million on Facebook, and more than 138,000 on Twitter. About 80% of her followers are women who range between 18 and 40 years of age. “They are very interested in skin care,” she said. “This is the target audience that advertisers want.”
Dr. Lee’s rapid rise to fame caused some soul-searching about her intentions. “What is really important to me is to not embarrass my patients and not embarrass myself or my specialty,” she said. “I wanted to show that we as dermatologists are so much more than pimple poppers, that we have an amazing specialty. Could I do this and still grow followers? Could I entertain them and keep their interest and educate them at the same time? Show them why we are experts?”
She added: “How could I reach people who have never seen a dermatologist and maybe teach them how to take care of their skin? And help them to know when the best time is to see a dermatologist. How can we distinguish ourselves from the rest of them: the estheticians, the nurse practitioners, the physician assistants, and the physicians who are board-certified in other specialties but who present themselves on social media as dermatologists? Our specialty is getting taken over by nondermatologists on social media from all angles, so it’s become important to me to remind people, in a positive way, that there’s a difference between a board-certified dermatologist and others.”
She offered the following six pearls of advice for building and maintaining your social media presence:
- Entertain, and secretly educate, without teaching them. “People want to learn about the world, and they want to know more about skin care,” said Dr. Lee, who also stars in her own TV reality show on TLC. “They want to know more about dermatology.”
- Know your audience. “Notice what posts get the most attention and try to figure out why that content resonates,” she advised. “Read your comments.”
- Show that you’re human. “They want to follow you because they like you as a person, not just because you’re a dermatologist,” she said. “Distinguish yourself amongst us dermatologists.”
- Don’t bad mouth other specialties or other so-called skin specialists. “Don’t invite the conflict,” she said. “In my opinion, the best way to fight this is to stay on the positive side and to showcase dermatology and how amazing it is to be a board-certified dermatologist.”
- Don’t hire someone to post for you, at least not initially. Handle your social media accounts yourself, “because otherwise you really can’t understand what is driving it,” said Dr. Lee, who launched her own skin care line, SLMD Skincare. “I don’t think it can grow to a large degree without you being directly involved.”
- Use the feedback and responses to make yourself a better dermatologist. “I think that social media has made my bedside manner better, my techniques better,” she said. “It has made me a better dermatologist and, I think, a better person, too.”
dbrunk@mdedge.com
The way Sandra Lee, MD, sees it, establishing a presence on Instagram, Twitter, and other social media channels may not float your boat, but its potential influence deserves your attention.
“We can no longer hide from social media; it is part of our lives now,” Dr. Lee, a dermatologist who practices in Upland, Calif., said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You’re missing some real opportunities without it.”
In October of 2014, Dr. Lee began using Instagram to provide followers a glimpse into her life as a dermatologist, everything from Mohs surgery and Botox to keloid removals and ear lobe repair surgeries. “Early on, I happened to post an extraction video,” she recalled. “It got a notable increase in attention. I thought it was weird. I did it again, and it happened again. I just started posting extraction videos every day: finding blackheads and whiteheads or milia or whatnot on my patients and just posting them. I watched in amazement as followers’ comments and attention grew.”
Soon after Dr. Lee started posting videos, she discovered Reddit, which has a subreddit for “popping addicts” and the “pop-curious,” she said. “It’s a group of tens of thousands of people who share popping videos with each other,” she explained. “I thought that was really strange. I also thought that maybe I could be their queen, so I decided to share my videos there. This meant that I would have to start a YouTube channel where I could upload my videos.”
With this, Dr. Lee formed her alter ego, “Dr. Pimple Popper,” and became a YouTube sensation, building 6.6 million subscribers over the course of a few years. She also grew 4 million followers on Instagram, 2.9 million on Facebook, and more than 138,000 on Twitter. About 80% of her followers are women who range between 18 and 40 years of age. “They are very interested in skin care,” she said. “This is the target audience that advertisers want.”
Dr. Lee’s rapid rise to fame caused some soul-searching about her intentions. “What is really important to me is to not embarrass my patients and not embarrass myself or my specialty,” she said. “I wanted to show that we as dermatologists are so much more than pimple poppers, that we have an amazing specialty. Could I do this and still grow followers? Could I entertain them and keep their interest and educate them at the same time? Show them why we are experts?”
She added: “How could I reach people who have never seen a dermatologist and maybe teach them how to take care of their skin? And help them to know when the best time is to see a dermatologist. How can we distinguish ourselves from the rest of them: the estheticians, the nurse practitioners, the physician assistants, and the physicians who are board-certified in other specialties but who present themselves on social media as dermatologists? Our specialty is getting taken over by nondermatologists on social media from all angles, so it’s become important to me to remind people, in a positive way, that there’s a difference between a board-certified dermatologist and others.”
She offered the following six pearls of advice for building and maintaining your social media presence:
- Entertain, and secretly educate, without teaching them. “People want to learn about the world, and they want to know more about skin care,” said Dr. Lee, who also stars in her own TV reality show on TLC. “They want to know more about dermatology.”
- Know your audience. “Notice what posts get the most attention and try to figure out why that content resonates,” she advised. “Read your comments.”
- Show that you’re human. “They want to follow you because they like you as a person, not just because you’re a dermatologist,” she said. “Distinguish yourself amongst us dermatologists.”
- Don’t bad mouth other specialties or other so-called skin specialists. “Don’t invite the conflict,” she said. “In my opinion, the best way to fight this is to stay on the positive side and to showcase dermatology and how amazing it is to be a board-certified dermatologist.”
- Don’t hire someone to post for you, at least not initially. Handle your social media accounts yourself, “because otherwise you really can’t understand what is driving it,” said Dr. Lee, who launched her own skin care line, SLMD Skincare. “I don’t think it can grow to a large degree without you being directly involved.”
- Use the feedback and responses to make yourself a better dermatologist. “I think that social media has made my bedside manner better, my techniques better,” she said. “It has made me a better dermatologist and, I think, a better person, too.”
dbrunk@mdedge.com
The way Sandra Lee, MD, sees it, establishing a presence on Instagram, Twitter, and other social media channels may not float your boat, but its potential influence deserves your attention.
“We can no longer hide from social media; it is part of our lives now,” Dr. Lee, a dermatologist who practices in Upland, Calif., said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You’re missing some real opportunities without it.”
In October of 2014, Dr. Lee began using Instagram to provide followers a glimpse into her life as a dermatologist, everything from Mohs surgery and Botox to keloid removals and ear lobe repair surgeries. “Early on, I happened to post an extraction video,” she recalled. “It got a notable increase in attention. I thought it was weird. I did it again, and it happened again. I just started posting extraction videos every day: finding blackheads and whiteheads or milia or whatnot on my patients and just posting them. I watched in amazement as followers’ comments and attention grew.”
Soon after Dr. Lee started posting videos, she discovered Reddit, which has a subreddit for “popping addicts” and the “pop-curious,” she said. “It’s a group of tens of thousands of people who share popping videos with each other,” she explained. “I thought that was really strange. I also thought that maybe I could be their queen, so I decided to share my videos there. This meant that I would have to start a YouTube channel where I could upload my videos.”
With this, Dr. Lee formed her alter ego, “Dr. Pimple Popper,” and became a YouTube sensation, building 6.6 million subscribers over the course of a few years. She also grew 4 million followers on Instagram, 2.9 million on Facebook, and more than 138,000 on Twitter. About 80% of her followers are women who range between 18 and 40 years of age. “They are very interested in skin care,” she said. “This is the target audience that advertisers want.”
Dr. Lee’s rapid rise to fame caused some soul-searching about her intentions. “What is really important to me is to not embarrass my patients and not embarrass myself or my specialty,” she said. “I wanted to show that we as dermatologists are so much more than pimple poppers, that we have an amazing specialty. Could I do this and still grow followers? Could I entertain them and keep their interest and educate them at the same time? Show them why we are experts?”
She added: “How could I reach people who have never seen a dermatologist and maybe teach them how to take care of their skin? And help them to know when the best time is to see a dermatologist. How can we distinguish ourselves from the rest of them: the estheticians, the nurse practitioners, the physician assistants, and the physicians who are board-certified in other specialties but who present themselves on social media as dermatologists? Our specialty is getting taken over by nondermatologists on social media from all angles, so it’s become important to me to remind people, in a positive way, that there’s a difference between a board-certified dermatologist and others.”
She offered the following six pearls of advice for building and maintaining your social media presence:
- Entertain, and secretly educate, without teaching them. “People want to learn about the world, and they want to know more about skin care,” said Dr. Lee, who also stars in her own TV reality show on TLC. “They want to know more about dermatology.”
- Know your audience. “Notice what posts get the most attention and try to figure out why that content resonates,” she advised. “Read your comments.”
- Show that you’re human. “They want to follow you because they like you as a person, not just because you’re a dermatologist,” she said. “Distinguish yourself amongst us dermatologists.”
- Don’t bad mouth other specialties or other so-called skin specialists. “Don’t invite the conflict,” she said. “In my opinion, the best way to fight this is to stay on the positive side and to showcase dermatology and how amazing it is to be a board-certified dermatologist.”
- Don’t hire someone to post for you, at least not initially. Handle your social media accounts yourself, “because otherwise you really can’t understand what is driving it,” said Dr. Lee, who launched her own skin care line, SLMD Skincare. “I don’t think it can grow to a large degree without you being directly involved.”
- Use the feedback and responses to make yourself a better dermatologist. “I think that social media has made my bedside manner better, my techniques better,” she said. “It has made me a better dermatologist and, I think, a better person, too.”
dbrunk@mdedge.com
FROM MOA 2020
Dermatologists play a key role in the transformation of transgender patients
, according to Doris Day, MD.
While clinical management of this patient population has historically been limited to experts in mental health, endocrinology, and select surgeons with experience in sex reassignment surgery, “what dermatologists provide on an aesthetic level through noninvasive or minimally invasive procedures can have a big impact in helping that transformation,” Dr. Day, of the department of dermatology at New York University Langone Health, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “But, we have to go through a transformation of sorts as well as we care for these patients, because we need to help them in the way that best matches their needs. We need to know about their mental health and the medicines they’re taking as well as their goals for their outcomes. If they’re working with surgeons for sex reassignment, we should have discussions with those clinicians as well.”
Gender-affirming hormone therapy is the primary medical intervention sought by transgender people, she said. This allows the acquisition of secondary sex characteristics more aligned with their gender identity. Feminizing hormone therapy affects the skin by reducing sebaceous gland activity, “which can lead to fewer acne breakouts and smaller pores but also cause drier skin,” Dr. Day said. “We can slow down the growth of body and facial hair and we can perform hair removal treatments. We see decreased male-pattern scalp hair loss, and we see smoother skin as the fat under the skin becomes thicker and the pores become smaller. We can also have increased pigment production, which is always a good thing.”
In a 2016 survey of 327 transgender individuals led by Dr. Day’s mentee, Brian A. Ginsberg, MD, and published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, most transgender women indicated that their face was most important to have changed, while for men it was the chest. Hair removal was the most common women’s facial procedure, followed by surgery then injectables, mostly performed by plastic surgeons.
Limitations of hormone therapy include the fact that it can take 2 or more years for associated changes to fully develop. “At least here in New York, patients want everything in a New York minute, so that’s always an issue,” she said. “We often recommend that patients wait at least 2 years after beginning hormone therapy before considering drastic feminization surgeries, but there are many options we have for them while they’re waiting for that. Even with hormone therapy, the bone structure of the face is unaffected, so we need to be artistic in creating a more feminized balance in order to help them physically match their gender to their identity.”
Noninvasive aesthetic procedures can compound the effects of hormone therapy, in addition to offering physical transformation beyond hormone therapy. She recalled assisting one of her patients transform from male to female. Over a period of 2 years, Dr. Day added Botox then Juvederm Voluma to the patient’s cheeks and chin, “and she started her transformation to a more feminized gender matching identity,” she said. Next came a hair transplant and the injection of more Voluma and fillers in the lips and cheeks on an as-needed basis.
“During one visit, I felt that we could still do more,” Dr. Day recalled. “She looked at me and said, ‘Actually, I feel so happy. This looks like me as I imagined I would look in my mind.’ I realized that my vision for her wasn’t the same as her vision for herself. She was thrilled with her transformation. I realized that as we see these patients, for all we learn about the science of gender transformation, the emotional aspects of our vision of what we can accomplish for our patients versus their vision of what their happiness level is may not entirely match. We have to be careful to help them celebrate their version of their femininity or masculinity, rather than trying to have our patients match what we think we can accomplish for them with our own sense of what femininity or masculinity is.”
Over time, Dr. Day said, the patient’s acne scars improved with fillers and microneedling treatments, and with the hormone therapy. “As we softened her appearance and as she made changes like the earrings that she wore and the hair style that she chose, she was in line with what her perception of her femininity was,” she said. “Little by little we’ve been watching her grow into her new self. It’s been a beautiful transformation. I was honored to be able to share in that journey with her.”
Dr. Day reported having no relevant financial disclosures.
, according to Doris Day, MD.
While clinical management of this patient population has historically been limited to experts in mental health, endocrinology, and select surgeons with experience in sex reassignment surgery, “what dermatologists provide on an aesthetic level through noninvasive or minimally invasive procedures can have a big impact in helping that transformation,” Dr. Day, of the department of dermatology at New York University Langone Health, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “But, we have to go through a transformation of sorts as well as we care for these patients, because we need to help them in the way that best matches their needs. We need to know about their mental health and the medicines they’re taking as well as their goals for their outcomes. If they’re working with surgeons for sex reassignment, we should have discussions with those clinicians as well.”
Gender-affirming hormone therapy is the primary medical intervention sought by transgender people, she said. This allows the acquisition of secondary sex characteristics more aligned with their gender identity. Feminizing hormone therapy affects the skin by reducing sebaceous gland activity, “which can lead to fewer acne breakouts and smaller pores but also cause drier skin,” Dr. Day said. “We can slow down the growth of body and facial hair and we can perform hair removal treatments. We see decreased male-pattern scalp hair loss, and we see smoother skin as the fat under the skin becomes thicker and the pores become smaller. We can also have increased pigment production, which is always a good thing.”
In a 2016 survey of 327 transgender individuals led by Dr. Day’s mentee, Brian A. Ginsberg, MD, and published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, most transgender women indicated that their face was most important to have changed, while for men it was the chest. Hair removal was the most common women’s facial procedure, followed by surgery then injectables, mostly performed by plastic surgeons.
Limitations of hormone therapy include the fact that it can take 2 or more years for associated changes to fully develop. “At least here in New York, patients want everything in a New York minute, so that’s always an issue,” she said. “We often recommend that patients wait at least 2 years after beginning hormone therapy before considering drastic feminization surgeries, but there are many options we have for them while they’re waiting for that. Even with hormone therapy, the bone structure of the face is unaffected, so we need to be artistic in creating a more feminized balance in order to help them physically match their gender to their identity.”
Noninvasive aesthetic procedures can compound the effects of hormone therapy, in addition to offering physical transformation beyond hormone therapy. She recalled assisting one of her patients transform from male to female. Over a period of 2 years, Dr. Day added Botox then Juvederm Voluma to the patient’s cheeks and chin, “and she started her transformation to a more feminized gender matching identity,” she said. Next came a hair transplant and the injection of more Voluma and fillers in the lips and cheeks on an as-needed basis.
“During one visit, I felt that we could still do more,” Dr. Day recalled. “She looked at me and said, ‘Actually, I feel so happy. This looks like me as I imagined I would look in my mind.’ I realized that my vision for her wasn’t the same as her vision for herself. She was thrilled with her transformation. I realized that as we see these patients, for all we learn about the science of gender transformation, the emotional aspects of our vision of what we can accomplish for our patients versus their vision of what their happiness level is may not entirely match. We have to be careful to help them celebrate their version of their femininity or masculinity, rather than trying to have our patients match what we think we can accomplish for them with our own sense of what femininity or masculinity is.”
Over time, Dr. Day said, the patient’s acne scars improved with fillers and microneedling treatments, and with the hormone therapy. “As we softened her appearance and as she made changes like the earrings that she wore and the hair style that she chose, she was in line with what her perception of her femininity was,” she said. “Little by little we’ve been watching her grow into her new self. It’s been a beautiful transformation. I was honored to be able to share in that journey with her.”
Dr. Day reported having no relevant financial disclosures.
, according to Doris Day, MD.
While clinical management of this patient population has historically been limited to experts in mental health, endocrinology, and select surgeons with experience in sex reassignment surgery, “what dermatologists provide on an aesthetic level through noninvasive or minimally invasive procedures can have a big impact in helping that transformation,” Dr. Day, of the department of dermatology at New York University Langone Health, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “But, we have to go through a transformation of sorts as well as we care for these patients, because we need to help them in the way that best matches their needs. We need to know about their mental health and the medicines they’re taking as well as their goals for their outcomes. If they’re working with surgeons for sex reassignment, we should have discussions with those clinicians as well.”
Gender-affirming hormone therapy is the primary medical intervention sought by transgender people, she said. This allows the acquisition of secondary sex characteristics more aligned with their gender identity. Feminizing hormone therapy affects the skin by reducing sebaceous gland activity, “which can lead to fewer acne breakouts and smaller pores but also cause drier skin,” Dr. Day said. “We can slow down the growth of body and facial hair and we can perform hair removal treatments. We see decreased male-pattern scalp hair loss, and we see smoother skin as the fat under the skin becomes thicker and the pores become smaller. We can also have increased pigment production, which is always a good thing.”
In a 2016 survey of 327 transgender individuals led by Dr. Day’s mentee, Brian A. Ginsberg, MD, and published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, most transgender women indicated that their face was most important to have changed, while for men it was the chest. Hair removal was the most common women’s facial procedure, followed by surgery then injectables, mostly performed by plastic surgeons.
Limitations of hormone therapy include the fact that it can take 2 or more years for associated changes to fully develop. “At least here in New York, patients want everything in a New York minute, so that’s always an issue,” she said. “We often recommend that patients wait at least 2 years after beginning hormone therapy before considering drastic feminization surgeries, but there are many options we have for them while they’re waiting for that. Even with hormone therapy, the bone structure of the face is unaffected, so we need to be artistic in creating a more feminized balance in order to help them physically match their gender to their identity.”
Noninvasive aesthetic procedures can compound the effects of hormone therapy, in addition to offering physical transformation beyond hormone therapy. She recalled assisting one of her patients transform from male to female. Over a period of 2 years, Dr. Day added Botox then Juvederm Voluma to the patient’s cheeks and chin, “and she started her transformation to a more feminized gender matching identity,” she said. Next came a hair transplant and the injection of more Voluma and fillers in the lips and cheeks on an as-needed basis.
“During one visit, I felt that we could still do more,” Dr. Day recalled. “She looked at me and said, ‘Actually, I feel so happy. This looks like me as I imagined I would look in my mind.’ I realized that my vision for her wasn’t the same as her vision for herself. She was thrilled with her transformation. I realized that as we see these patients, for all we learn about the science of gender transformation, the emotional aspects of our vision of what we can accomplish for our patients versus their vision of what their happiness level is may not entirely match. We have to be careful to help them celebrate their version of their femininity or masculinity, rather than trying to have our patients match what we think we can accomplish for them with our own sense of what femininity or masculinity is.”
Over time, Dr. Day said, the patient’s acne scars improved with fillers and microneedling treatments, and with the hormone therapy. “As we softened her appearance and as she made changes like the earrings that she wore and the hair style that she chose, she was in line with what her perception of her femininity was,” she said. “Little by little we’ve been watching her grow into her new self. It’s been a beautiful transformation. I was honored to be able to share in that journey with her.”
Dr. Day reported having no relevant financial disclosures.
FROM MOA 2020
‘Conservative parameters’ key to maximizing cosmetic laser results in skin of color
with special considerations, according to Andrew F. Alexis, MD, MPH.
“With the devices and approaches we have today, we can achieve safe and favorable outcomes, as long as we keep in mind that there is no one-size-fits all approach,” Dr. Alexis, chair of the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Morningside and Mount Sinai West, New York, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Conservative parameters are key.”
According to 2018 data from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 30% of all aesthetic procedures in the United States are being performed on self-identified non-White racial ethnic groups. “This is projected to continue to increase given demographic changes as well as changes in our technologies and approaches to aesthetic procedures that allow for safer outcomes across a more diverse range of patients,” said Dr. Alexis, professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York. “That being said, even though we have many safe and effective options for all skin types today, we still have to consider that on the whole, there are higher risks of pigmentary and scarring complications when we perform most of our aesthetic procedures in darker skin types. The concept of limiting the degree of injury associated with a procedure remains paramount. Even when we pick the correct device for a give patient’s skin type, if our parameters aren’t optimal, or if our technique isn’t optimal, we can still end up with pigmentary and scarring complications.”
He offered key principles for maximining safety and optimal outcomes:
Know your device. Understand the range of parameters that are safe and effective for the given skin types that you see in your practice. “Don’t just rely on what the manufacturer provides in the manual, because you could have safe parameters as directed by the manual but undertreat some patients because the settings are too conservative,” Dr. Alexis said. “On the other hand, there might be scenarios where following recommended settings for a specific skin type might still wind up with a complication. Doing test spots is key in order to master the device that you are using.”
Know your patient. Don’t assume that you know a patient’s skin phototype or ancestry when that person first presents. “When we do that, we can arrive at erroneous conclusions with respect to phototype and with respect to ancestral background, and with respect to risk of pigmentary and scarring complications,” he said. “Treat your patient as an individual; no cookie-cutter responses, no assumptions.” He makes it a point to ask patients about their ancestry and about how their skin responds to sunlight in terms of tanning ability and to injury and inflammation such as insect bites, acne, and minor abrasions. “What happens to their skin when those things happen?” Dr. Alexis said. “Do they have a tendency to hyperpigment or not? You can easily ask for that or look for evidence of that on their skin. Similarly, asking about a personal or family history of keloids or hypertrophic scars is helpful in determining an overall risk assessment for a patient before you proceed with a given procedure.”
Recognize differences in preferred treatment options and parameters. Often, less is more. For example, he said, with laser hair removal, strive for longer wavelengths, lower fluences, longer pulse durations, and increased epidermal cooling. A study from 2002 in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology showed that the maximum tolerated fluence of type VI skin with the 1064 Nd: YAG laser was 50 J/cm2.
According to Dr. Alexis, nonablative fractional resurfacing “set the stage for being able to have safe outcomes for all skin types,” he said. “That being said, the higher the skin phototype, the higher the incidence of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. How can we reduce this? The most important parameter is the treatment density, even though in a retrospective review from my center, high energies were associated with higher PIH rates too. Using conservative treatment densities lowers the risk of hyperpigmentation.”
Prophylactic use of hydroquinone prior to resurfacing with fractional lasers is another way to minimize the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. With this approach, Dr. Alexis asks patients to apply hydroquinone two weeks before treatment and for at least 4 weeks after. “Sun protection is key,” he said. “But when taking all of this into account, using conservative treatment densities in the range of 11%-20% coverage with a 1,550-nm Erbium-doped fractional laser, you can get favorable outcomes across skin types. But sometimes you can wind up with complications even if you do the right things.” He recalled a patient he treated for acne scarring and atrophic scars. After three treatments with the nonablative fractional 1,550-nm Erbium-doped laser set at level 4 (11% coverage), the patient developed hyperpigmentation of the treatment area. Dr. Alexis chose to continue treatment “with a few tweaks to reduce the risk of further hyperpigmentation,” he said. “I reduced the treatment density and the number of passes by half, so that the total energy delivered was halved. I also increased the concentration of hydroquinone from 4% to 6%. With that, the postinflammatory hyperpigmentation resolved.”
Another tool for resurfacing is the microsecond 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser. “No anesthesia is required, there’s minimal down time, and you can treat all skin types,” Dr. Alexis said. “No pre- or posttreatment prophylaxis with bleaching agents are necessary, but multiple laser treatment sessions are required in order to achieve clinically meaningful results.” His approach to treating types V and VI skin involves a 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser with a 5-mm spot size, a 0.3-microsecond pulse duration, a fluence of 12-14 J/cm2, a repetition rate of 5-8 Hz, 1,000-2,000 pulses per cosmetic unit, and avoidance of pulse stacking. He generally performs 4-6 treatment sessions 2-6 weeks apart.
An additional option for resurfacing is the 650-microsecond 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser. The recommend fluence in skin of color is 14-21 J/cm2. A recent review article in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology described clinical experience using this device for a wide range of conditions in darker skin types, including acne, hyperpigmentation, and melasma.
A more recent approach is using fractional radiofrequency devices, especially those that feature coated pin tips. These tips “protect the epidermis from heat injury and deliver heat to the deeper dermis where we want it, and minimize the risk to the epidermis,” Dr. Alexis said. In a 2018 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology of 35 patients with skin type VI, participants received three sessions of facial treatments, 4 weeks apart using a fractional RF device with 24-pin coated tip. The researchers found that the regimen was safe and effective, and that it resulted in improved wrinkles, acne scars, and overall skin appearance.
Dr. Alexis disclosed that he has served as an adviser to or has received consulting fees from Leo, Novartis, Menlo, Galderma, Pfizer, Sanofi-Regeneron, Dermavant, Unilever, Celgene, Beiersdorf, Valeant, L’Oreal, BMS, Scientis, Bausch Health, UCB, Foamix, and Cassiopea.
with special considerations, according to Andrew F. Alexis, MD, MPH.
“With the devices and approaches we have today, we can achieve safe and favorable outcomes, as long as we keep in mind that there is no one-size-fits all approach,” Dr. Alexis, chair of the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Morningside and Mount Sinai West, New York, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Conservative parameters are key.”
According to 2018 data from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 30% of all aesthetic procedures in the United States are being performed on self-identified non-White racial ethnic groups. “This is projected to continue to increase given demographic changes as well as changes in our technologies and approaches to aesthetic procedures that allow for safer outcomes across a more diverse range of patients,” said Dr. Alexis, professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York. “That being said, even though we have many safe and effective options for all skin types today, we still have to consider that on the whole, there are higher risks of pigmentary and scarring complications when we perform most of our aesthetic procedures in darker skin types. The concept of limiting the degree of injury associated with a procedure remains paramount. Even when we pick the correct device for a give patient’s skin type, if our parameters aren’t optimal, or if our technique isn’t optimal, we can still end up with pigmentary and scarring complications.”
He offered key principles for maximining safety and optimal outcomes:
Know your device. Understand the range of parameters that are safe and effective for the given skin types that you see in your practice. “Don’t just rely on what the manufacturer provides in the manual, because you could have safe parameters as directed by the manual but undertreat some patients because the settings are too conservative,” Dr. Alexis said. “On the other hand, there might be scenarios where following recommended settings for a specific skin type might still wind up with a complication. Doing test spots is key in order to master the device that you are using.”
Know your patient. Don’t assume that you know a patient’s skin phototype or ancestry when that person first presents. “When we do that, we can arrive at erroneous conclusions with respect to phototype and with respect to ancestral background, and with respect to risk of pigmentary and scarring complications,” he said. “Treat your patient as an individual; no cookie-cutter responses, no assumptions.” He makes it a point to ask patients about their ancestry and about how their skin responds to sunlight in terms of tanning ability and to injury and inflammation such as insect bites, acne, and minor abrasions. “What happens to their skin when those things happen?” Dr. Alexis said. “Do they have a tendency to hyperpigment or not? You can easily ask for that or look for evidence of that on their skin. Similarly, asking about a personal or family history of keloids or hypertrophic scars is helpful in determining an overall risk assessment for a patient before you proceed with a given procedure.”
Recognize differences in preferred treatment options and parameters. Often, less is more. For example, he said, with laser hair removal, strive for longer wavelengths, lower fluences, longer pulse durations, and increased epidermal cooling. A study from 2002 in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology showed that the maximum tolerated fluence of type VI skin with the 1064 Nd: YAG laser was 50 J/cm2.
According to Dr. Alexis, nonablative fractional resurfacing “set the stage for being able to have safe outcomes for all skin types,” he said. “That being said, the higher the skin phototype, the higher the incidence of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. How can we reduce this? The most important parameter is the treatment density, even though in a retrospective review from my center, high energies were associated with higher PIH rates too. Using conservative treatment densities lowers the risk of hyperpigmentation.”
Prophylactic use of hydroquinone prior to resurfacing with fractional lasers is another way to minimize the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. With this approach, Dr. Alexis asks patients to apply hydroquinone two weeks before treatment and for at least 4 weeks after. “Sun protection is key,” he said. “But when taking all of this into account, using conservative treatment densities in the range of 11%-20% coverage with a 1,550-nm Erbium-doped fractional laser, you can get favorable outcomes across skin types. But sometimes you can wind up with complications even if you do the right things.” He recalled a patient he treated for acne scarring and atrophic scars. After three treatments with the nonablative fractional 1,550-nm Erbium-doped laser set at level 4 (11% coverage), the patient developed hyperpigmentation of the treatment area. Dr. Alexis chose to continue treatment “with a few tweaks to reduce the risk of further hyperpigmentation,” he said. “I reduced the treatment density and the number of passes by half, so that the total energy delivered was halved. I also increased the concentration of hydroquinone from 4% to 6%. With that, the postinflammatory hyperpigmentation resolved.”
Another tool for resurfacing is the microsecond 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser. “No anesthesia is required, there’s minimal down time, and you can treat all skin types,” Dr. Alexis said. “No pre- or posttreatment prophylaxis with bleaching agents are necessary, but multiple laser treatment sessions are required in order to achieve clinically meaningful results.” His approach to treating types V and VI skin involves a 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser with a 5-mm spot size, a 0.3-microsecond pulse duration, a fluence of 12-14 J/cm2, a repetition rate of 5-8 Hz, 1,000-2,000 pulses per cosmetic unit, and avoidance of pulse stacking. He generally performs 4-6 treatment sessions 2-6 weeks apart.
An additional option for resurfacing is the 650-microsecond 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser. The recommend fluence in skin of color is 14-21 J/cm2. A recent review article in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology described clinical experience using this device for a wide range of conditions in darker skin types, including acne, hyperpigmentation, and melasma.
A more recent approach is using fractional radiofrequency devices, especially those that feature coated pin tips. These tips “protect the epidermis from heat injury and deliver heat to the deeper dermis where we want it, and minimize the risk to the epidermis,” Dr. Alexis said. In a 2018 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology of 35 patients with skin type VI, participants received three sessions of facial treatments, 4 weeks apart using a fractional RF device with 24-pin coated tip. The researchers found that the regimen was safe and effective, and that it resulted in improved wrinkles, acne scars, and overall skin appearance.
Dr. Alexis disclosed that he has served as an adviser to or has received consulting fees from Leo, Novartis, Menlo, Galderma, Pfizer, Sanofi-Regeneron, Dermavant, Unilever, Celgene, Beiersdorf, Valeant, L’Oreal, BMS, Scientis, Bausch Health, UCB, Foamix, and Cassiopea.
with special considerations, according to Andrew F. Alexis, MD, MPH.
“With the devices and approaches we have today, we can achieve safe and favorable outcomes, as long as we keep in mind that there is no one-size-fits all approach,” Dr. Alexis, chair of the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Morningside and Mount Sinai West, New York, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Conservative parameters are key.”
According to 2018 data from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 30% of all aesthetic procedures in the United States are being performed on self-identified non-White racial ethnic groups. “This is projected to continue to increase given demographic changes as well as changes in our technologies and approaches to aesthetic procedures that allow for safer outcomes across a more diverse range of patients,” said Dr. Alexis, professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York. “That being said, even though we have many safe and effective options for all skin types today, we still have to consider that on the whole, there are higher risks of pigmentary and scarring complications when we perform most of our aesthetic procedures in darker skin types. The concept of limiting the degree of injury associated with a procedure remains paramount. Even when we pick the correct device for a give patient’s skin type, if our parameters aren’t optimal, or if our technique isn’t optimal, we can still end up with pigmentary and scarring complications.”
He offered key principles for maximining safety and optimal outcomes:
Know your device. Understand the range of parameters that are safe and effective for the given skin types that you see in your practice. “Don’t just rely on what the manufacturer provides in the manual, because you could have safe parameters as directed by the manual but undertreat some patients because the settings are too conservative,” Dr. Alexis said. “On the other hand, there might be scenarios where following recommended settings for a specific skin type might still wind up with a complication. Doing test spots is key in order to master the device that you are using.”
Know your patient. Don’t assume that you know a patient’s skin phototype or ancestry when that person first presents. “When we do that, we can arrive at erroneous conclusions with respect to phototype and with respect to ancestral background, and with respect to risk of pigmentary and scarring complications,” he said. “Treat your patient as an individual; no cookie-cutter responses, no assumptions.” He makes it a point to ask patients about their ancestry and about how their skin responds to sunlight in terms of tanning ability and to injury and inflammation such as insect bites, acne, and minor abrasions. “What happens to their skin when those things happen?” Dr. Alexis said. “Do they have a tendency to hyperpigment or not? You can easily ask for that or look for evidence of that on their skin. Similarly, asking about a personal or family history of keloids or hypertrophic scars is helpful in determining an overall risk assessment for a patient before you proceed with a given procedure.”
Recognize differences in preferred treatment options and parameters. Often, less is more. For example, he said, with laser hair removal, strive for longer wavelengths, lower fluences, longer pulse durations, and increased epidermal cooling. A study from 2002 in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology showed that the maximum tolerated fluence of type VI skin with the 1064 Nd: YAG laser was 50 J/cm2.
According to Dr. Alexis, nonablative fractional resurfacing “set the stage for being able to have safe outcomes for all skin types,” he said. “That being said, the higher the skin phototype, the higher the incidence of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. How can we reduce this? The most important parameter is the treatment density, even though in a retrospective review from my center, high energies were associated with higher PIH rates too. Using conservative treatment densities lowers the risk of hyperpigmentation.”
Prophylactic use of hydroquinone prior to resurfacing with fractional lasers is another way to minimize the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. With this approach, Dr. Alexis asks patients to apply hydroquinone two weeks before treatment and for at least 4 weeks after. “Sun protection is key,” he said. “But when taking all of this into account, using conservative treatment densities in the range of 11%-20% coverage with a 1,550-nm Erbium-doped fractional laser, you can get favorable outcomes across skin types. But sometimes you can wind up with complications even if you do the right things.” He recalled a patient he treated for acne scarring and atrophic scars. After three treatments with the nonablative fractional 1,550-nm Erbium-doped laser set at level 4 (11% coverage), the patient developed hyperpigmentation of the treatment area. Dr. Alexis chose to continue treatment “with a few tweaks to reduce the risk of further hyperpigmentation,” he said. “I reduced the treatment density and the number of passes by half, so that the total energy delivered was halved. I also increased the concentration of hydroquinone from 4% to 6%. With that, the postinflammatory hyperpigmentation resolved.”
Another tool for resurfacing is the microsecond 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser. “No anesthesia is required, there’s minimal down time, and you can treat all skin types,” Dr. Alexis said. “No pre- or posttreatment prophylaxis with bleaching agents are necessary, but multiple laser treatment sessions are required in order to achieve clinically meaningful results.” His approach to treating types V and VI skin involves a 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser with a 5-mm spot size, a 0.3-microsecond pulse duration, a fluence of 12-14 J/cm2, a repetition rate of 5-8 Hz, 1,000-2,000 pulses per cosmetic unit, and avoidance of pulse stacking. He generally performs 4-6 treatment sessions 2-6 weeks apart.
An additional option for resurfacing is the 650-microsecond 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser. The recommend fluence in skin of color is 14-21 J/cm2. A recent review article in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology described clinical experience using this device for a wide range of conditions in darker skin types, including acne, hyperpigmentation, and melasma.
A more recent approach is using fractional radiofrequency devices, especially those that feature coated pin tips. These tips “protect the epidermis from heat injury and deliver heat to the deeper dermis where we want it, and minimize the risk to the epidermis,” Dr. Alexis said. In a 2018 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology of 35 patients with skin type VI, participants received three sessions of facial treatments, 4 weeks apart using a fractional RF device with 24-pin coated tip. The researchers found that the regimen was safe and effective, and that it resulted in improved wrinkles, acne scars, and overall skin appearance.
Dr. Alexis disclosed that he has served as an adviser to or has received consulting fees from Leo, Novartis, Menlo, Galderma, Pfizer, Sanofi-Regeneron, Dermavant, Unilever, Celgene, Beiersdorf, Valeant, L’Oreal, BMS, Scientis, Bausch Health, UCB, Foamix, and Cassiopea.
AT MOA 2020
RAP device being investigated as a way to improve appearance of cellulite
.
“The procedure is relatively painless, without anesthesia and can easily be delegated with physician oversight,” Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Side effects have been minimal and transient to date. There is no down time.”
According to Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, the RAP device emits rapid acoustic pulses (shock waves) that are transmitted through the skin to rupture or “shear” the fibrotic septa. This causes the release of septa, which results in a smoothening of skin dimples.
“Basically, what you have is a repetition rate and very short rise time that provide microscopic mechanical disruption to the targeted cellular level structures and vacuoles,” Dr. Avram explained. “There’s a high leak pressure and fast repetition rate that exploits the viscoelastic nature of the tissue. You get compressed pulses from electronic filtering and the reflector shape eliminates cavitation, heat, and pain.”
The procedure takes 20-30 minutes to perform and it generates minimal heat and pain, “which is an advantage of the treatment,” he said. “It is completely noninvasive, with no incision whatsoever. No anesthetic is required. There can be physician oversight of delivery, so it is delegable, and there is no recovery time. More study is needed, and we need to stay tuned.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, and Soliton. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis.
.
“The procedure is relatively painless, without anesthesia and can easily be delegated with physician oversight,” Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Side effects have been minimal and transient to date. There is no down time.”
According to Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, the RAP device emits rapid acoustic pulses (shock waves) that are transmitted through the skin to rupture or “shear” the fibrotic septa. This causes the release of septa, which results in a smoothening of skin dimples.
“Basically, what you have is a repetition rate and very short rise time that provide microscopic mechanical disruption to the targeted cellular level structures and vacuoles,” Dr. Avram explained. “There’s a high leak pressure and fast repetition rate that exploits the viscoelastic nature of the tissue. You get compressed pulses from electronic filtering and the reflector shape eliminates cavitation, heat, and pain.”
The procedure takes 20-30 minutes to perform and it generates minimal heat and pain, “which is an advantage of the treatment,” he said. “It is completely noninvasive, with no incision whatsoever. No anesthetic is required. There can be physician oversight of delivery, so it is delegable, and there is no recovery time. More study is needed, and we need to stay tuned.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, and Soliton. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis.
.
“The procedure is relatively painless, without anesthesia and can easily be delegated with physician oversight,” Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Side effects have been minimal and transient to date. There is no down time.”
According to Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, the RAP device emits rapid acoustic pulses (shock waves) that are transmitted through the skin to rupture or “shear” the fibrotic septa. This causes the release of septa, which results in a smoothening of skin dimples.
“Basically, what you have is a repetition rate and very short rise time that provide microscopic mechanical disruption to the targeted cellular level structures and vacuoles,” Dr. Avram explained. “There’s a high leak pressure and fast repetition rate that exploits the viscoelastic nature of the tissue. You get compressed pulses from electronic filtering and the reflector shape eliminates cavitation, heat, and pain.”
The procedure takes 20-30 minutes to perform and it generates minimal heat and pain, “which is an advantage of the treatment,” he said. “It is completely noninvasive, with no incision whatsoever. No anesthetic is required. There can be physician oversight of delivery, so it is delegable, and there is no recovery time. More study is needed, and we need to stay tuned.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, and Soliton. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis.
FROM MOA 2020
No one-size-fits-all approach to tissue-tightening devices
.
“There are many devices on the market, but their efficacy is not consistent,” Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MS, MD, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “The key to maximizing patient satisfaction is patient selection and setting realistic expectations.”
She avoids recommending the use of tissue-tightening devices for patients who require surgical correction and for those who find the idea of minimal improvement unacceptable. “These are not the treatments for them,” she said. “I also find that when a patient uses her fingers to pull her face back and says, ‘I want to look like this,’ this is not the right patient for these devices. They can get a good amount of improvement, but efficacy is not consistent.”
Still, patients favor noninvasive or minimally invasive procedures for skin tightening now more than ever before. “They are not willing to undergo surgical treatments, and they want something with low downtime,” she said.
Dr. DiGiorgio, who practices at the Boston Center for Facial Rejuvenation, began a review of tissue-tightening devices on the market by discussing the role of ablative fractional lasers such as the carbon dioxide 10,600-nm laser and the Erbium:YAG 2,940-nm laser, which carry risks and downtime. “I don’t view these lasers as a tissue-tightening devices, but they are included because they can provide a little bit of tightening,” she said.
The ideal candidate is someone with skin type I-II and mild skin laxity. “These lasers are really good at improving rhytides,” she noted. “The patient needs to be able to tolerate the discomfort and manage the healing process. Sometimes you can get blepharoplastylike results with some patients. This can be combined with vascular lasers and pigment-targeting lasers to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. Many combine this with a face-lift or a blepharoplasty. You should wait at least 6-8 weeks after a face-lift before performing this procedure. Some plastic surgeons do combine this with blepharoplasty in the same visit.”
A less invasive option for skin tightening is the delivery of radiofrequency energy, which disrupts hydrogen bonds of the collagen triple helix. This occurs in temperatures greater than 60° C and results in collagen contraction and tightening and neocollagenesis. There are several devices available including transcutaneous monopolar radiofrequency (Thermage, TempSure), subsurface thermistor–controlled monopolar radiofrequency (ThermiTight), and fractional microneedling radiofrequency (Profound RF, Genius RF, Vivace, and Secret RF). The transcutaneous monopolar radiofrequency device delivers energy uniformly via a treatment tip that has contact cooling and coupling fluid. Collagen is denatured at 65° C and fibroblasts are stimulated to form new collagen. The healing process provides additional tightening.
“These treatments are noninvasive; there’s no downtime, and there’s mild discomfort,” Dr. DiGiorgio commented. “Treatments can be done around the eyes, on the face and body. When treating around the eyes with these devices you want to use a corneal plastic eye shield. Contraindications include having a pacemaker, defibrillator, or other electronic implantable device.”
In her opinion, the ideal patient for this device has mild skin laxity or is younger and seeking to maintain a youthful appearance. “It’s great for mild upper eyelid laxity and for temporary improvement of cellulite appearance,” she said. “The patient should not require surgical intervention and the patient should also agree to undergo multiple treatment sessions. Just one treatment session is not going to cut it.”
Another device in this class of technology is subsurface thermistor–controlled monopolar radiofrequency, “which is basically a probe that’s inserted into the skin, most commonly in the submental area,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. An external infrared camera monitors the epidermal temperature, which should not exceed 45°C. This results in a controlled deep dermal and subdermal delivery of thermal energy. “It requires light tumescent anesthesia, and it can be combined with liposuction,” she said. “Common side effects include erythema, edema, and bruising, and sometimes contour irregularities or nodules.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is someone with mild to moderate skin laxity who does not require surgical correction. “You can combine this with liposuction, but you can achieve good results without it,” she said.
The next device in this class of technology that Dr. DiGiorgio discussed is fractional microneedling radiofrequency. Of several such devices on the market, some have adjustable depths up to 4 mm while others have fixed depths. The energy is adjustable, and the tips can be insulated or noninsulated. “Insulated tips make it safer to perform in darker skin types because the proximal portion of the needle is insulated and the epidermis is spared from damage,” she explained. “Some devices are a bit more painful than others. It does require topical anesthesia; some require local injection anesthesia. Patients have erythema for about 24 hours, and treatments are recommended monthly.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is someone with mild to moderate skin laxity who does not require surgical intervention but who seeks to maintain a youthful appearance. “Patients should understand that multiple treatments will be required to achieve optimal results,” she said. “I find that there is less improvement in older patients. This can be combined with thread lifts, vascular lasers, pigment-targeting lasers, and CO2 lasers.”
The next device for skin tightening that she discussed is microfocused ultrasound (Ultherapy), which delivers millisecond domain pulses at three different depths that are determined by the transducer that you use. It can go as deep as 4.5 mm. “Each pulse delivers a focal zone of coagulation to achieve tissue contraction,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. “There’s an ultrasound-imaging device attached to it to ensure proper skin contact and the delivery of energy at an appropriate depth. Patients can have a little bit of pain and erythema and edema, sometime bruising. Usually there is not much downtime with these treatments.”
A newcomer in this class of technology is SoftWave, an intense ultrasound beam array (IUB), which delivers energy precisely to the middermis at a depth of 1.5 mm. “With each pulse, the hand piece has seven transducers that deliver energy in 3-dimensional cylindrical thermal zones,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. “You get greater than 25% tissue coverage in one treatment, and there is no injury to the epidermis or deeper structures. It has unique vectors that are along the lines of facial wrinkles, so you get tightening along those lines.”
The procedure takes about 30 minutes, there is no downtime, and it causes no pain, she said. Pretreatment, patients receive topical anesthesia. “This device has active skin cooling and has an ultrasound gel,” she added. “It does not have an imaging platform like the microfocused ultrasound does, because the depth is fixed. You get significant wrinkle reduction and decrease in submental fullness with improvement in jawline definition, eyebrow position, fine lines, and texture.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is a patient in the mid-40s to early 50s with mild to moderate elastosis, fullness, texture irregularities, laxity, rhytids, elastosis, and photoaging.
She reported having no financial disclosures.
.
“There are many devices on the market, but their efficacy is not consistent,” Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MS, MD, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “The key to maximizing patient satisfaction is patient selection and setting realistic expectations.”
She avoids recommending the use of tissue-tightening devices for patients who require surgical correction and for those who find the idea of minimal improvement unacceptable. “These are not the treatments for them,” she said. “I also find that when a patient uses her fingers to pull her face back and says, ‘I want to look like this,’ this is not the right patient for these devices. They can get a good amount of improvement, but efficacy is not consistent.”
Still, patients favor noninvasive or minimally invasive procedures for skin tightening now more than ever before. “They are not willing to undergo surgical treatments, and they want something with low downtime,” she said.
Dr. DiGiorgio, who practices at the Boston Center for Facial Rejuvenation, began a review of tissue-tightening devices on the market by discussing the role of ablative fractional lasers such as the carbon dioxide 10,600-nm laser and the Erbium:YAG 2,940-nm laser, which carry risks and downtime. “I don’t view these lasers as a tissue-tightening devices, but they are included because they can provide a little bit of tightening,” she said.
The ideal candidate is someone with skin type I-II and mild skin laxity. “These lasers are really good at improving rhytides,” she noted. “The patient needs to be able to tolerate the discomfort and manage the healing process. Sometimes you can get blepharoplastylike results with some patients. This can be combined with vascular lasers and pigment-targeting lasers to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. Many combine this with a face-lift or a blepharoplasty. You should wait at least 6-8 weeks after a face-lift before performing this procedure. Some plastic surgeons do combine this with blepharoplasty in the same visit.”
A less invasive option for skin tightening is the delivery of radiofrequency energy, which disrupts hydrogen bonds of the collagen triple helix. This occurs in temperatures greater than 60° C and results in collagen contraction and tightening and neocollagenesis. There are several devices available including transcutaneous monopolar radiofrequency (Thermage, TempSure), subsurface thermistor–controlled monopolar radiofrequency (ThermiTight), and fractional microneedling radiofrequency (Profound RF, Genius RF, Vivace, and Secret RF). The transcutaneous monopolar radiofrequency device delivers energy uniformly via a treatment tip that has contact cooling and coupling fluid. Collagen is denatured at 65° C and fibroblasts are stimulated to form new collagen. The healing process provides additional tightening.
“These treatments are noninvasive; there’s no downtime, and there’s mild discomfort,” Dr. DiGiorgio commented. “Treatments can be done around the eyes, on the face and body. When treating around the eyes with these devices you want to use a corneal plastic eye shield. Contraindications include having a pacemaker, defibrillator, or other electronic implantable device.”
In her opinion, the ideal patient for this device has mild skin laxity or is younger and seeking to maintain a youthful appearance. “It’s great for mild upper eyelid laxity and for temporary improvement of cellulite appearance,” she said. “The patient should not require surgical intervention and the patient should also agree to undergo multiple treatment sessions. Just one treatment session is not going to cut it.”
Another device in this class of technology is subsurface thermistor–controlled monopolar radiofrequency, “which is basically a probe that’s inserted into the skin, most commonly in the submental area,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. An external infrared camera monitors the epidermal temperature, which should not exceed 45°C. This results in a controlled deep dermal and subdermal delivery of thermal energy. “It requires light tumescent anesthesia, and it can be combined with liposuction,” she said. “Common side effects include erythema, edema, and bruising, and sometimes contour irregularities or nodules.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is someone with mild to moderate skin laxity who does not require surgical correction. “You can combine this with liposuction, but you can achieve good results without it,” she said.
The next device in this class of technology that Dr. DiGiorgio discussed is fractional microneedling radiofrequency. Of several such devices on the market, some have adjustable depths up to 4 mm while others have fixed depths. The energy is adjustable, and the tips can be insulated or noninsulated. “Insulated tips make it safer to perform in darker skin types because the proximal portion of the needle is insulated and the epidermis is spared from damage,” she explained. “Some devices are a bit more painful than others. It does require topical anesthesia; some require local injection anesthesia. Patients have erythema for about 24 hours, and treatments are recommended monthly.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is someone with mild to moderate skin laxity who does not require surgical intervention but who seeks to maintain a youthful appearance. “Patients should understand that multiple treatments will be required to achieve optimal results,” she said. “I find that there is less improvement in older patients. This can be combined with thread lifts, vascular lasers, pigment-targeting lasers, and CO2 lasers.”
The next device for skin tightening that she discussed is microfocused ultrasound (Ultherapy), which delivers millisecond domain pulses at three different depths that are determined by the transducer that you use. It can go as deep as 4.5 mm. “Each pulse delivers a focal zone of coagulation to achieve tissue contraction,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. “There’s an ultrasound-imaging device attached to it to ensure proper skin contact and the delivery of energy at an appropriate depth. Patients can have a little bit of pain and erythema and edema, sometime bruising. Usually there is not much downtime with these treatments.”
A newcomer in this class of technology is SoftWave, an intense ultrasound beam array (IUB), which delivers energy precisely to the middermis at a depth of 1.5 mm. “With each pulse, the hand piece has seven transducers that deliver energy in 3-dimensional cylindrical thermal zones,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. “You get greater than 25% tissue coverage in one treatment, and there is no injury to the epidermis or deeper structures. It has unique vectors that are along the lines of facial wrinkles, so you get tightening along those lines.”
The procedure takes about 30 minutes, there is no downtime, and it causes no pain, she said. Pretreatment, patients receive topical anesthesia. “This device has active skin cooling and has an ultrasound gel,” she added. “It does not have an imaging platform like the microfocused ultrasound does, because the depth is fixed. You get significant wrinkle reduction and decrease in submental fullness with improvement in jawline definition, eyebrow position, fine lines, and texture.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is a patient in the mid-40s to early 50s with mild to moderate elastosis, fullness, texture irregularities, laxity, rhytids, elastosis, and photoaging.
She reported having no financial disclosures.
.
“There are many devices on the market, but their efficacy is not consistent,” Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MS, MD, said during the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “The key to maximizing patient satisfaction is patient selection and setting realistic expectations.”
She avoids recommending the use of tissue-tightening devices for patients who require surgical correction and for those who find the idea of minimal improvement unacceptable. “These are not the treatments for them,” she said. “I also find that when a patient uses her fingers to pull her face back and says, ‘I want to look like this,’ this is not the right patient for these devices. They can get a good amount of improvement, but efficacy is not consistent.”
Still, patients favor noninvasive or minimally invasive procedures for skin tightening now more than ever before. “They are not willing to undergo surgical treatments, and they want something with low downtime,” she said.
Dr. DiGiorgio, who practices at the Boston Center for Facial Rejuvenation, began a review of tissue-tightening devices on the market by discussing the role of ablative fractional lasers such as the carbon dioxide 10,600-nm laser and the Erbium:YAG 2,940-nm laser, which carry risks and downtime. “I don’t view these lasers as a tissue-tightening devices, but they are included because they can provide a little bit of tightening,” she said.
The ideal candidate is someone with skin type I-II and mild skin laxity. “These lasers are really good at improving rhytides,” she noted. “The patient needs to be able to tolerate the discomfort and manage the healing process. Sometimes you can get blepharoplastylike results with some patients. This can be combined with vascular lasers and pigment-targeting lasers to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. Many combine this with a face-lift or a blepharoplasty. You should wait at least 6-8 weeks after a face-lift before performing this procedure. Some plastic surgeons do combine this with blepharoplasty in the same visit.”
A less invasive option for skin tightening is the delivery of radiofrequency energy, which disrupts hydrogen bonds of the collagen triple helix. This occurs in temperatures greater than 60° C and results in collagen contraction and tightening and neocollagenesis. There are several devices available including transcutaneous monopolar radiofrequency (Thermage, TempSure), subsurface thermistor–controlled monopolar radiofrequency (ThermiTight), and fractional microneedling radiofrequency (Profound RF, Genius RF, Vivace, and Secret RF). The transcutaneous monopolar radiofrequency device delivers energy uniformly via a treatment tip that has contact cooling and coupling fluid. Collagen is denatured at 65° C and fibroblasts are stimulated to form new collagen. The healing process provides additional tightening.
“These treatments are noninvasive; there’s no downtime, and there’s mild discomfort,” Dr. DiGiorgio commented. “Treatments can be done around the eyes, on the face and body. When treating around the eyes with these devices you want to use a corneal plastic eye shield. Contraindications include having a pacemaker, defibrillator, or other electronic implantable device.”
In her opinion, the ideal patient for this device has mild skin laxity or is younger and seeking to maintain a youthful appearance. “It’s great for mild upper eyelid laxity and for temporary improvement of cellulite appearance,” she said. “The patient should not require surgical intervention and the patient should also agree to undergo multiple treatment sessions. Just one treatment session is not going to cut it.”
Another device in this class of technology is subsurface thermistor–controlled monopolar radiofrequency, “which is basically a probe that’s inserted into the skin, most commonly in the submental area,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. An external infrared camera monitors the epidermal temperature, which should not exceed 45°C. This results in a controlled deep dermal and subdermal delivery of thermal energy. “It requires light tumescent anesthesia, and it can be combined with liposuction,” she said. “Common side effects include erythema, edema, and bruising, and sometimes contour irregularities or nodules.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is someone with mild to moderate skin laxity who does not require surgical correction. “You can combine this with liposuction, but you can achieve good results without it,” she said.
The next device in this class of technology that Dr. DiGiorgio discussed is fractional microneedling radiofrequency. Of several such devices on the market, some have adjustable depths up to 4 mm while others have fixed depths. The energy is adjustable, and the tips can be insulated or noninsulated. “Insulated tips make it safer to perform in darker skin types because the proximal portion of the needle is insulated and the epidermis is spared from damage,” she explained. “Some devices are a bit more painful than others. It does require topical anesthesia; some require local injection anesthesia. Patients have erythema for about 24 hours, and treatments are recommended monthly.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is someone with mild to moderate skin laxity who does not require surgical intervention but who seeks to maintain a youthful appearance. “Patients should understand that multiple treatments will be required to achieve optimal results,” she said. “I find that there is less improvement in older patients. This can be combined with thread lifts, vascular lasers, pigment-targeting lasers, and CO2 lasers.”
The next device for skin tightening that she discussed is microfocused ultrasound (Ultherapy), which delivers millisecond domain pulses at three different depths that are determined by the transducer that you use. It can go as deep as 4.5 mm. “Each pulse delivers a focal zone of coagulation to achieve tissue contraction,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. “There’s an ultrasound-imaging device attached to it to ensure proper skin contact and the delivery of energy at an appropriate depth. Patients can have a little bit of pain and erythema and edema, sometime bruising. Usually there is not much downtime with these treatments.”
A newcomer in this class of technology is SoftWave, an intense ultrasound beam array (IUB), which delivers energy precisely to the middermis at a depth of 1.5 mm. “With each pulse, the hand piece has seven transducers that deliver energy in 3-dimensional cylindrical thermal zones,” Dr. DiGiorgio said. “You get greater than 25% tissue coverage in one treatment, and there is no injury to the epidermis or deeper structures. It has unique vectors that are along the lines of facial wrinkles, so you get tightening along those lines.”
The procedure takes about 30 minutes, there is no downtime, and it causes no pain, she said. Pretreatment, patients receive topical anesthesia. “This device has active skin cooling and has an ultrasound gel,” she added. “It does not have an imaging platform like the microfocused ultrasound does, because the depth is fixed. You get significant wrinkle reduction and decrease in submental fullness with improvement in jawline definition, eyebrow position, fine lines, and texture.” In her opinion, the ideal candidate for this device is a patient in the mid-40s to early 50s with mild to moderate elastosis, fullness, texture irregularities, laxity, rhytids, elastosis, and photoaging.
She reported having no financial disclosures.
REPORTING FROM MOA 2020
Combination approach to melasma treatment yields best results
When establishing a treatment plan for patients with melasma, counseling them about realistic expectations is key.
“It’s important that they understand that this is a chronic condition, so it does require long-term maintenance therapy,” Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We can improve melasma, but it’s difficult to cure melasma.”
While hydroquinone and other bleaching agents are typical treatment mainstays, chemical peels with glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, and salicylic acid can benefit some individuals. “For chemical peels, I really like glycolic acid peels because there is no downtime; it peels at the microscopic level,” said Dr. Ortiz, who is director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego. “This is something they may need to repeat monthly, and having a week of peeling may be difficult to go through every month.”
Other common melasma treatments include lasers, intense pulsed light (IPL), and oral medications. “I personally am not impressed with microdermabrasion for melasma, so I don’t use that very much,” she said. “With laser treatment, you want to make sure you’re using low-energy lasers so that it doesn’t exacerbate or make them relapse or rebound.”
While hydroquinone is a mainstay of therapy, “you can’t use it chronically because of the risk of ochronosis (permanent darkening), so you do need to take drug holidays,” Dr. Ortiz said. “During those drug holidays, you want to make sure patients have a nonhydroquinone bleaching agent so that they don’t flare.” Options include lignin peroxidase, oligopeptide, Lytera, Melaplex, 4-n-butylresorcinol, Cysteamine cream, tranexamic acid, and oral antioxidants.
In a study sponsored by SkinMedica, investigators conducted a randomized, double-blind, half-face study in females with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation to assess the efficacy and tolerability of three new skin brightener formulations containing SMA-432, a prostaglandin E2 inhibitor, compared with topical 4% hydroquinone (J Drugs Dermatol 2012 Dec;11[12]:1478-82). They found that the nonhydroquinone skin formulations were better tolerated and were just as effective as 4% hydroquinone.
In a separate unpublished study of 22 females, investigators assessed the efficacy of the U.SK Advanced Defense Booster, which contains ferulic acid, maslinic acid, peptides, and olive leaf extract. They observed that 98% of patients saw improvement after 28 days of treatment.
When it comes to using lasers for melasma treatment, low-energy devices provide the best outcomes. “I prefer using something like the 1927-nm fractional diode lasers at 3.75% density, really low densities because there’s less risk for rebound,” Dr. Ortiz said. “They also enhance skin permeability for the use of topicals.”
In an observational study of 27 female patients with refractory melasma, Arielle Kauvar, MD, director of New York Laser & Skin Care, combined microdermabrasion with the Q-switched Nd:YAG (Lasers in Surgery and Medicine 2012; 44:117-24). “The settings she used were very low fluence, so there was no clinical endpoint or no whitening,” Dr. Ortiz said. Specifically, she used a laser at 1.6-2 J/cm2 with a 5- or 6-mm spot size immediately following microdermabrasion for 4 weeks. “She got a good improvement using a skin care regimen of sunscreen, hydroquinone, and tretinoin or vitamin C,” she said. “Remission lasted at least 6 months.”
In a study presented at the 2019 annual meeting of the America Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, Dr. Ortiz and Tanya Greywal, MD, of the University of California, San Diego, used three passes of the 10764-nm Nd:YAG laser to treat 10 subjects with melasma skin types 2-5. The device has a 650-microsecond pulse duration, a 6-mm spot size, and an energy mode of 11-14 J/cm3. “There was no downtime with these patients, and they saw a mean improvement of 26%-50% as early as 3 weeks,” she said. “Patients did require multiple treatments to see adequate resolution, but no anesthesia or numbing cream was required. This is a good option for patients who need chronic maintenance treatment.”
Topicals also play a key role following the laser treatment of melasma. Dr. Ortiz characterized clobetasol as “kind of like the magic ointment.” She uses one application immediately post procedure “whenever I’m worried about a patient having postinflammatory hyperpigmentation or if I don’t want melasma patients to rebound. It can help reduce swelling and inflammation to decrease the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
Researchers have discovered that there is a vascular component to melasma. Paul M. Friedman, MD, of the Dermatology and Laser Surgery Center, Houston, and his colleagues used spectrocolorimetry to detect an underlying prominent vascular component in 11 patients with melasma (Lasers Surg Med 2017 Jan;49[1]:20-6). They determined that melasma lesions exhibiting subtle or subclinical telangiectatic erythema may be improved by combined vascular-targeted laser therapy together with fractional low-powered diode laser therapy. “A parallel improvement in telangiectatic erythema suggests a relationship between the underlying vasculature and hyperpigmentation,” said Dr. Ortiz, who was not affiliated with the study. “So, patients who have a vascular component to their melasma actually can get improved efficacy.”
Another strategy for melasma patients involves oral treatment with Polypodium leucotomos extract (PLE), a fern from the Polypodiaceae family with antioxidant properties that has been shown to be photoprotective against UVA and UVB radiation. “I like to think of it as an internal sunscreen,” Dr. Ortiz said. “It does not replace your external sunscreen, but it adds extra protection. It has been shown to significantly reduce the severity of sunburn and decrease the risk of UV radiation–induced skin cancer, as well as prevent skin aging.” The purported mechanism of action includes decreasing UV-mediated oxidative damage to DNA, enhancing the activity of endogenous antioxidant systems, increasing the minimal erythema dose, blocking UV radiation–induced cyclooxygenase-2 expression, reducing UV-induced immune suppression, and promoting p53 suppressor gene expression.
In a pilot placebo-controlled study of melasma patients on their normal regimen of hydroquinone and sunscreen, 40 Asian patients with melasma were randomized to receive either oral PLE supplementation or placebo for 12 weeks (J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2018 Mar;11[3]:14-9). They found that PLE significantly improved and accelerated the outcome reached with hydroquinone and sunscreen from the first month of treatment, compared with placebo.
Dr. Ortiz next discussed the role of oral tranexamic acid, an antifibrinolytic, procoagulant agent that is approved by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of menorrhagia and for prevention of hemorrhage in patients with hemophilia undergoing tooth extractions. “It is a synthetic lysine derivative that inhibits plasminogen activation by blocking lysine-binding sites on the plasminogen molecule, and it’s a game changer for melasma treatment,” she said. “One of the side effects is that it inhibits melanogenesis and neovascularization. It’s been effective for melasma, but its use is limited by the risk for thromboembolism. It’s a slight increased risk, something patients should be aware of, but not something that should scare us away from prescribing it.”
In a study of 561 patients with melasma, 90% improved after a median treatment duration of 4 months, and only 7% had side effects (J Am Acad Dermatol 2016;75:385-92). The most common side effects were abdominal bloating and pain. One patient developed a DVT during treatment, but that person was found to have a protein S deficiency.
The daily dosing of tranexamic acid for menorrhagia is 3,900 mg daily, while the dose for melasma has ranged from 500 mg-1,500 mg per day, Dr. Ortiz said. It’s available as a 650-mg pill in the United States. “I prescribe 325 mg twice a day, but studies have shown that 650 mg once a day is just as effective,” she said.
Prior to prescribing tranexamic acid, Dr. Ortiz does not order labs, but she performs an extensive history of present illness. She does not prescribe it in patients with an increased risk of clotting, including people who smoke and those who take oral contraceptives or are on hormone supplementation. Use is also contraindicated in people with a current malignancy, those with a history of stroke or DVT, and those who have any clotting disorder.
She concluded her presentation by noting that she favors a combination approach to treating melasma patients that starts with a broad spectrum sunscreen and PLE. “For bleaching, I like to use 12% hydroquinone with 6% kojic acid in VersaBase,” she said. “Once I get them in better control, then I switch them to 4% hydroquinone for maintenance. I use glycolic peels, low-energy lasers, and tranexamic acid if the melasma is severe, and they have no contraindications. A combination approach really achieves the best results, and counseling is key.”
Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with numerous pharmaceutical and device companies. She is also cochair of MOA.
When establishing a treatment plan for patients with melasma, counseling them about realistic expectations is key.
“It’s important that they understand that this is a chronic condition, so it does require long-term maintenance therapy,” Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We can improve melasma, but it’s difficult to cure melasma.”
While hydroquinone and other bleaching agents are typical treatment mainstays, chemical peels with glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, and salicylic acid can benefit some individuals. “For chemical peels, I really like glycolic acid peels because there is no downtime; it peels at the microscopic level,” said Dr. Ortiz, who is director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego. “This is something they may need to repeat monthly, and having a week of peeling may be difficult to go through every month.”
Other common melasma treatments include lasers, intense pulsed light (IPL), and oral medications. “I personally am not impressed with microdermabrasion for melasma, so I don’t use that very much,” she said. “With laser treatment, you want to make sure you’re using low-energy lasers so that it doesn’t exacerbate or make them relapse or rebound.”
While hydroquinone is a mainstay of therapy, “you can’t use it chronically because of the risk of ochronosis (permanent darkening), so you do need to take drug holidays,” Dr. Ortiz said. “During those drug holidays, you want to make sure patients have a nonhydroquinone bleaching agent so that they don’t flare.” Options include lignin peroxidase, oligopeptide, Lytera, Melaplex, 4-n-butylresorcinol, Cysteamine cream, tranexamic acid, and oral antioxidants.
In a study sponsored by SkinMedica, investigators conducted a randomized, double-blind, half-face study in females with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation to assess the efficacy and tolerability of three new skin brightener formulations containing SMA-432, a prostaglandin E2 inhibitor, compared with topical 4% hydroquinone (J Drugs Dermatol 2012 Dec;11[12]:1478-82). They found that the nonhydroquinone skin formulations were better tolerated and were just as effective as 4% hydroquinone.
In a separate unpublished study of 22 females, investigators assessed the efficacy of the U.SK Advanced Defense Booster, which contains ferulic acid, maslinic acid, peptides, and olive leaf extract. They observed that 98% of patients saw improvement after 28 days of treatment.
When it comes to using lasers for melasma treatment, low-energy devices provide the best outcomes. “I prefer using something like the 1927-nm fractional diode lasers at 3.75% density, really low densities because there’s less risk for rebound,” Dr. Ortiz said. “They also enhance skin permeability for the use of topicals.”
In an observational study of 27 female patients with refractory melasma, Arielle Kauvar, MD, director of New York Laser & Skin Care, combined microdermabrasion with the Q-switched Nd:YAG (Lasers in Surgery and Medicine 2012; 44:117-24). “The settings she used were very low fluence, so there was no clinical endpoint or no whitening,” Dr. Ortiz said. Specifically, she used a laser at 1.6-2 J/cm2 with a 5- or 6-mm spot size immediately following microdermabrasion for 4 weeks. “She got a good improvement using a skin care regimen of sunscreen, hydroquinone, and tretinoin or vitamin C,” she said. “Remission lasted at least 6 months.”
In a study presented at the 2019 annual meeting of the America Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, Dr. Ortiz and Tanya Greywal, MD, of the University of California, San Diego, used three passes of the 10764-nm Nd:YAG laser to treat 10 subjects with melasma skin types 2-5. The device has a 650-microsecond pulse duration, a 6-mm spot size, and an energy mode of 11-14 J/cm3. “There was no downtime with these patients, and they saw a mean improvement of 26%-50% as early as 3 weeks,” she said. “Patients did require multiple treatments to see adequate resolution, but no anesthesia or numbing cream was required. This is a good option for patients who need chronic maintenance treatment.”
Topicals also play a key role following the laser treatment of melasma. Dr. Ortiz characterized clobetasol as “kind of like the magic ointment.” She uses one application immediately post procedure “whenever I’m worried about a patient having postinflammatory hyperpigmentation or if I don’t want melasma patients to rebound. It can help reduce swelling and inflammation to decrease the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
Researchers have discovered that there is a vascular component to melasma. Paul M. Friedman, MD, of the Dermatology and Laser Surgery Center, Houston, and his colleagues used spectrocolorimetry to detect an underlying prominent vascular component in 11 patients with melasma (Lasers Surg Med 2017 Jan;49[1]:20-6). They determined that melasma lesions exhibiting subtle or subclinical telangiectatic erythema may be improved by combined vascular-targeted laser therapy together with fractional low-powered diode laser therapy. “A parallel improvement in telangiectatic erythema suggests a relationship between the underlying vasculature and hyperpigmentation,” said Dr. Ortiz, who was not affiliated with the study. “So, patients who have a vascular component to their melasma actually can get improved efficacy.”
Another strategy for melasma patients involves oral treatment with Polypodium leucotomos extract (PLE), a fern from the Polypodiaceae family with antioxidant properties that has been shown to be photoprotective against UVA and UVB radiation. “I like to think of it as an internal sunscreen,” Dr. Ortiz said. “It does not replace your external sunscreen, but it adds extra protection. It has been shown to significantly reduce the severity of sunburn and decrease the risk of UV radiation–induced skin cancer, as well as prevent skin aging.” The purported mechanism of action includes decreasing UV-mediated oxidative damage to DNA, enhancing the activity of endogenous antioxidant systems, increasing the minimal erythema dose, blocking UV radiation–induced cyclooxygenase-2 expression, reducing UV-induced immune suppression, and promoting p53 suppressor gene expression.
In a pilot placebo-controlled study of melasma patients on their normal regimen of hydroquinone and sunscreen, 40 Asian patients with melasma were randomized to receive either oral PLE supplementation or placebo for 12 weeks (J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2018 Mar;11[3]:14-9). They found that PLE significantly improved and accelerated the outcome reached with hydroquinone and sunscreen from the first month of treatment, compared with placebo.
Dr. Ortiz next discussed the role of oral tranexamic acid, an antifibrinolytic, procoagulant agent that is approved by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of menorrhagia and for prevention of hemorrhage in patients with hemophilia undergoing tooth extractions. “It is a synthetic lysine derivative that inhibits plasminogen activation by blocking lysine-binding sites on the plasminogen molecule, and it’s a game changer for melasma treatment,” she said. “One of the side effects is that it inhibits melanogenesis and neovascularization. It’s been effective for melasma, but its use is limited by the risk for thromboembolism. It’s a slight increased risk, something patients should be aware of, but not something that should scare us away from prescribing it.”
In a study of 561 patients with melasma, 90% improved after a median treatment duration of 4 months, and only 7% had side effects (J Am Acad Dermatol 2016;75:385-92). The most common side effects were abdominal bloating and pain. One patient developed a DVT during treatment, but that person was found to have a protein S deficiency.
The daily dosing of tranexamic acid for menorrhagia is 3,900 mg daily, while the dose for melasma has ranged from 500 mg-1,500 mg per day, Dr. Ortiz said. It’s available as a 650-mg pill in the United States. “I prescribe 325 mg twice a day, but studies have shown that 650 mg once a day is just as effective,” she said.
Prior to prescribing tranexamic acid, Dr. Ortiz does not order labs, but she performs an extensive history of present illness. She does not prescribe it in patients with an increased risk of clotting, including people who smoke and those who take oral contraceptives or are on hormone supplementation. Use is also contraindicated in people with a current malignancy, those with a history of stroke or DVT, and those who have any clotting disorder.
She concluded her presentation by noting that she favors a combination approach to treating melasma patients that starts with a broad spectrum sunscreen and PLE. “For bleaching, I like to use 12% hydroquinone with 6% kojic acid in VersaBase,” she said. “Once I get them in better control, then I switch them to 4% hydroquinone for maintenance. I use glycolic peels, low-energy lasers, and tranexamic acid if the melasma is severe, and they have no contraindications. A combination approach really achieves the best results, and counseling is key.”
Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with numerous pharmaceutical and device companies. She is also cochair of MOA.
When establishing a treatment plan for patients with melasma, counseling them about realistic expectations is key.
“It’s important that they understand that this is a chronic condition, so it does require long-term maintenance therapy,” Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, said at the virtual annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We can improve melasma, but it’s difficult to cure melasma.”
While hydroquinone and other bleaching agents are typical treatment mainstays, chemical peels with glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, and salicylic acid can benefit some individuals. “For chemical peels, I really like glycolic acid peels because there is no downtime; it peels at the microscopic level,” said Dr. Ortiz, who is director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego. “This is something they may need to repeat monthly, and having a week of peeling may be difficult to go through every month.”
Other common melasma treatments include lasers, intense pulsed light (IPL), and oral medications. “I personally am not impressed with microdermabrasion for melasma, so I don’t use that very much,” she said. “With laser treatment, you want to make sure you’re using low-energy lasers so that it doesn’t exacerbate or make them relapse or rebound.”
While hydroquinone is a mainstay of therapy, “you can’t use it chronically because of the risk of ochronosis (permanent darkening), so you do need to take drug holidays,” Dr. Ortiz said. “During those drug holidays, you want to make sure patients have a nonhydroquinone bleaching agent so that they don’t flare.” Options include lignin peroxidase, oligopeptide, Lytera, Melaplex, 4-n-butylresorcinol, Cysteamine cream, tranexamic acid, and oral antioxidants.
In a study sponsored by SkinMedica, investigators conducted a randomized, double-blind, half-face study in females with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation to assess the efficacy and tolerability of three new skin brightener formulations containing SMA-432, a prostaglandin E2 inhibitor, compared with topical 4% hydroquinone (J Drugs Dermatol 2012 Dec;11[12]:1478-82). They found that the nonhydroquinone skin formulations were better tolerated and were just as effective as 4% hydroquinone.
In a separate unpublished study of 22 females, investigators assessed the efficacy of the U.SK Advanced Defense Booster, which contains ferulic acid, maslinic acid, peptides, and olive leaf extract. They observed that 98% of patients saw improvement after 28 days of treatment.
When it comes to using lasers for melasma treatment, low-energy devices provide the best outcomes. “I prefer using something like the 1927-nm fractional diode lasers at 3.75% density, really low densities because there’s less risk for rebound,” Dr. Ortiz said. “They also enhance skin permeability for the use of topicals.”
In an observational study of 27 female patients with refractory melasma, Arielle Kauvar, MD, director of New York Laser & Skin Care, combined microdermabrasion with the Q-switched Nd:YAG (Lasers in Surgery and Medicine 2012; 44:117-24). “The settings she used were very low fluence, so there was no clinical endpoint or no whitening,” Dr. Ortiz said. Specifically, she used a laser at 1.6-2 J/cm2 with a 5- or 6-mm spot size immediately following microdermabrasion for 4 weeks. “She got a good improvement using a skin care regimen of sunscreen, hydroquinone, and tretinoin or vitamin C,” she said. “Remission lasted at least 6 months.”
In a study presented at the 2019 annual meeting of the America Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, Dr. Ortiz and Tanya Greywal, MD, of the University of California, San Diego, used three passes of the 10764-nm Nd:YAG laser to treat 10 subjects with melasma skin types 2-5. The device has a 650-microsecond pulse duration, a 6-mm spot size, and an energy mode of 11-14 J/cm3. “There was no downtime with these patients, and they saw a mean improvement of 26%-50% as early as 3 weeks,” she said. “Patients did require multiple treatments to see adequate resolution, but no anesthesia or numbing cream was required. This is a good option for patients who need chronic maintenance treatment.”
Topicals also play a key role following the laser treatment of melasma. Dr. Ortiz characterized clobetasol as “kind of like the magic ointment.” She uses one application immediately post procedure “whenever I’m worried about a patient having postinflammatory hyperpigmentation or if I don’t want melasma patients to rebound. It can help reduce swelling and inflammation to decrease the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
Researchers have discovered that there is a vascular component to melasma. Paul M. Friedman, MD, of the Dermatology and Laser Surgery Center, Houston, and his colleagues used spectrocolorimetry to detect an underlying prominent vascular component in 11 patients with melasma (Lasers Surg Med 2017 Jan;49[1]:20-6). They determined that melasma lesions exhibiting subtle or subclinical telangiectatic erythema may be improved by combined vascular-targeted laser therapy together with fractional low-powered diode laser therapy. “A parallel improvement in telangiectatic erythema suggests a relationship between the underlying vasculature and hyperpigmentation,” said Dr. Ortiz, who was not affiliated with the study. “So, patients who have a vascular component to their melasma actually can get improved efficacy.”
Another strategy for melasma patients involves oral treatment with Polypodium leucotomos extract (PLE), a fern from the Polypodiaceae family with antioxidant properties that has been shown to be photoprotective against UVA and UVB radiation. “I like to think of it as an internal sunscreen,” Dr. Ortiz said. “It does not replace your external sunscreen, but it adds extra protection. It has been shown to significantly reduce the severity of sunburn and decrease the risk of UV radiation–induced skin cancer, as well as prevent skin aging.” The purported mechanism of action includes decreasing UV-mediated oxidative damage to DNA, enhancing the activity of endogenous antioxidant systems, increasing the minimal erythema dose, blocking UV radiation–induced cyclooxygenase-2 expression, reducing UV-induced immune suppression, and promoting p53 suppressor gene expression.
In a pilot placebo-controlled study of melasma patients on their normal regimen of hydroquinone and sunscreen, 40 Asian patients with melasma were randomized to receive either oral PLE supplementation or placebo for 12 weeks (J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2018 Mar;11[3]:14-9). They found that PLE significantly improved and accelerated the outcome reached with hydroquinone and sunscreen from the first month of treatment, compared with placebo.
Dr. Ortiz next discussed the role of oral tranexamic acid, an antifibrinolytic, procoagulant agent that is approved by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of menorrhagia and for prevention of hemorrhage in patients with hemophilia undergoing tooth extractions. “It is a synthetic lysine derivative that inhibits plasminogen activation by blocking lysine-binding sites on the plasminogen molecule, and it’s a game changer for melasma treatment,” she said. “One of the side effects is that it inhibits melanogenesis and neovascularization. It’s been effective for melasma, but its use is limited by the risk for thromboembolism. It’s a slight increased risk, something patients should be aware of, but not something that should scare us away from prescribing it.”
In a study of 561 patients with melasma, 90% improved after a median treatment duration of 4 months, and only 7% had side effects (J Am Acad Dermatol 2016;75:385-92). The most common side effects were abdominal bloating and pain. One patient developed a DVT during treatment, but that person was found to have a protein S deficiency.
The daily dosing of tranexamic acid for menorrhagia is 3,900 mg daily, while the dose for melasma has ranged from 500 mg-1,500 mg per day, Dr. Ortiz said. It’s available as a 650-mg pill in the United States. “I prescribe 325 mg twice a day, but studies have shown that 650 mg once a day is just as effective,” she said.
Prior to prescribing tranexamic acid, Dr. Ortiz does not order labs, but she performs an extensive history of present illness. She does not prescribe it in patients with an increased risk of clotting, including people who smoke and those who take oral contraceptives or are on hormone supplementation. Use is also contraindicated in people with a current malignancy, those with a history of stroke or DVT, and those who have any clotting disorder.
She concluded her presentation by noting that she favors a combination approach to treating melasma patients that starts with a broad spectrum sunscreen and PLE. “For bleaching, I like to use 12% hydroquinone with 6% kojic acid in VersaBase,” she said. “Once I get them in better control, then I switch them to 4% hydroquinone for maintenance. I use glycolic peels, low-energy lasers, and tranexamic acid if the melasma is severe, and they have no contraindications. A combination approach really achieves the best results, and counseling is key.”
Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with numerous pharmaceutical and device companies. She is also cochair of MOA.
EXPERT ANALYSIS FROM MOA 2020