Susan C. Taylor, MD

To the Editor:

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) is a chronic progressive type of scarring alopecia that primarily affects women of African descent.¹ The disorder rarely is reported in men, which may be due to misdiagnosis or delayed diagnosis. Early diagnosis and treatment are the cornerstones to slow or halt disease progression and prevent permanent damage to hair follicles. This study aimed to investigate the time to diagnosis and disease severity among males with CCCA.

We conducted a retrospective chart review of male patients older than 18 years seen in outpatient clinics at an academic dermatology department (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) between January 2012 and December 2022. An electronic query using the International Classification of Diseases, Ninth and Tenth Revisions, code L66.9 (cicatricial alopecia, unspecified) was performed. Patients were included if they had a clinical diagnosis of CCCA, histologic evidence of CCCA, and scalp photographs from the initial dermatology visit. Patients with folliculitis decalvans, scalp biopsy features that limited characterization, or no scalp biopsy were excluded from the study. Onset of CCCA was defined as the patient-reported start time of hair loss and/or scalp symptoms. To determine alopecia severity, the degree of central scalp hair loss was independently assessed by 2 dermatologists (S.C.T., T.O.) using the central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women.^2,3 This 6-point photographic scale displays images with grades ranging from 0 (normal) to 5 (bald scalp); higher grades indicate probable and more severe CCCA. The scale also divides the central hair loss in a frontal-accentuation or vertex-predominant pattern, which corresponds to the A or B designations, respectively; thus, a score of 5A indicates probable severe CCCA with a frontal accentuation pattern, while 5B indicates probable severe CCCA with hair loss focused on the vertex scalp. This study was approved by the University of Pennsylvania institutional review board (approval #850730).

Of 108 male patients, 12 met the eligibility criteria. Nearly all patients (91.7% [11/12]) had a CCCA severity grade of 3 or higher at the initial dermatology visit, indicating extensive hair loss (Table). The clinical appearance of severity grades 2 through 5 is demonstrated in the Figure. Among patients with a known disease duration prior to diagnosis, 72.7% (8/11) were diagnosed more than 1 year after onset of CCCA, and 45.4% (5/11) were diagnosed more than 5 years after onset. On average (SD), it took 6.4 (5.9) years for patients to receive a diagnosis of CCCA after the onset of scalp symptoms and/or hair loss.

Randomized controlled trials evaluating treatment of CCCA are lacking, and anecdotal evidence posits a better treatment response in early CCCA; however, our results suggest that most male patients present with advanced CCCA and receive a diagnosis years after disease onset. Similar research in alopecia areata has shown that 72.4% (105/145) of patients received their diagnosis within a year after onset of symptoms, and the mean time from onset of symptoms to diagnosis was 1 year.⁴ In contrast, male patients with CCCA experience considerable diagnostic delays. This disparity indicates the need for clinicians to increase recognition of CCCA in men and quickly refer them to a dermatologist for prompt treatment.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) commonly is at the top of the differential diagnosis for hair loss on the vertex of the scalp in males, but clinicians should maintain a high index of suspicion for CCCA, especially when scalp symptoms or atypical features of AGA are present.⁵ Androgenetic alopecia typically is asymptomatic, whereas the symptoms of CCCA may include itching, tenderness, and/or burning.^6,7 Trichoscopy is useful to evaluate for scarring, and a scalp biopsy may reveal other features to lower AGA on the differential. Educating patients, barbers, and hairstylists about the importance of early intervention also may encourage earlier visits before the scarring process is advanced. Further exploration into factors impacting diagnosis and CCCA severity may uncover implications for prognosis and treatment.

This study was limited by a small sample size, retrospective design, and single-center analysis. Some patients had comorbid hair loss conditions, which could affect disease severity. Moreover, the central scalp alopecia photographic scale² was not validated in men or designed for assessment of the nonclassical hair loss distributions noted in some of our patients. Nonetheless, we hope these data will support clinicians in efforts to advocate for early diagnosis and treatment in patients with CCCA to ultimately help improve outcomes.

To the Editor:

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) is a chronic progressive type of scarring alopecia that primarily affects women of African descent.¹ The disorder rarely is reported in men, which may be due to misdiagnosis or delayed diagnosis. Early diagnosis and treatment are the cornerstones to slow or halt disease progression and prevent permanent damage to hair follicles. This study aimed to investigate the time to diagnosis and disease severity among males with CCCA.

We conducted a retrospective chart review of male patients older than 18 years seen in outpatient clinics at an academic dermatology department (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) between January 2012 and December 2022. An electronic query using the International Classification of Diseases, Ninth and Tenth Revisions, code L66.9 (cicatricial alopecia, unspecified) was performed. Patients were included if they had a clinical diagnosis of CCCA, histologic evidence of CCCA, and scalp photographs from the initial dermatology visit. Patients with folliculitis decalvans, scalp biopsy features that limited characterization, or no scalp biopsy were excluded from the study. Onset of CCCA was defined as the patient-reported start time of hair loss and/or scalp symptoms. To determine alopecia severity, the degree of central scalp hair loss was independently assessed by 2 dermatologists (S.C.T., T.O.) using the central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women.^2,3 This 6-point photographic scale displays images with grades ranging from 0 (normal) to 5 (bald scalp); higher grades indicate probable and more severe CCCA. The scale also divides the central hair loss in a frontal-accentuation or vertex-predominant pattern, which corresponds to the A or B designations, respectively; thus, a score of 5A indicates probable severe CCCA with a frontal accentuation pattern, while 5B indicates probable severe CCCA with hair loss focused on the vertex scalp. This study was approved by the University of Pennsylvania institutional review board (approval #850730).

Of 108 male patients, 12 met the eligibility criteria. Nearly all patients (91.7% [11/12]) had a CCCA severity grade of 3 or higher at the initial dermatology visit, indicating extensive hair loss (Table). The clinical appearance of severity grades 2 through 5 is demonstrated in the Figure. Among patients with a known disease duration prior to diagnosis, 72.7% (8/11) were diagnosed more than 1 year after onset of CCCA, and 45.4% (5/11) were diagnosed more than 5 years after onset. On average (SD), it took 6.4 (5.9) years for patients to receive a diagnosis of CCCA after the onset of scalp symptoms and/or hair loss.

Randomized controlled trials evaluating treatment of CCCA are lacking, and anecdotal evidence posits a better treatment response in early CCCA; however, our results suggest that most male patients present with advanced CCCA and receive a diagnosis years after disease onset. Similar research in alopecia areata has shown that 72.4% (105/145) of patients received their diagnosis within a year after onset of symptoms, and the mean time from onset of symptoms to diagnosis was 1 year.⁴ In contrast, male patients with CCCA experience considerable diagnostic delays. This disparity indicates the need for clinicians to increase recognition of CCCA in men and quickly refer them to a dermatologist for prompt treatment.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) commonly is at the top of the differential diagnosis for hair loss on the vertex of the scalp in males, but clinicians should maintain a high index of suspicion for CCCA, especially when scalp symptoms or atypical features of AGA are present.⁵ Androgenetic alopecia typically is asymptomatic, whereas the symptoms of CCCA may include itching, tenderness, and/or burning.^6,7 Trichoscopy is useful to evaluate for scarring, and a scalp biopsy may reveal other features to lower AGA on the differential. Educating patients, barbers, and hairstylists about the importance of early intervention also may encourage earlier visits before the scarring process is advanced. Further exploration into factors impacting diagnosis and CCCA severity may uncover implications for prognosis and treatment.

This study was limited by a small sample size, retrospective design, and single-center analysis. Some patients had comorbid hair loss conditions, which could affect disease severity. Moreover, the central scalp alopecia photographic scale² was not validated in men or designed for assessment of the nonclassical hair loss distributions noted in some of our patients. Nonetheless, we hope these data will support clinicians in efforts to advocate for early diagnosis and treatment in patients with CCCA to ultimately help improve outcomes.

To the Editor:

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) is a chronic progressive type of scarring alopecia that primarily affects women of African descent.¹ The disorder rarely is reported in men, which may be due to misdiagnosis or delayed diagnosis. Early diagnosis and treatment are the cornerstones to slow or halt disease progression and prevent permanent damage to hair follicles. This study aimed to investigate the time to diagnosis and disease severity among males with CCCA.

We conducted a retrospective chart review of male patients older than 18 years seen in outpatient clinics at an academic dermatology department (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) between January 2012 and December 2022. An electronic query using the International Classification of Diseases, Ninth and Tenth Revisions, code L66.9 (cicatricial alopecia, unspecified) was performed. Patients were included if they had a clinical diagnosis of CCCA, histologic evidence of CCCA, and scalp photographs from the initial dermatology visit. Patients with folliculitis decalvans, scalp biopsy features that limited characterization, or no scalp biopsy were excluded from the study. Onset of CCCA was defined as the patient-reported start time of hair loss and/or scalp symptoms. To determine alopecia severity, the degree of central scalp hair loss was independently assessed by 2 dermatologists (S.C.T., T.O.) using the central scalp alopecia photographic scale in African American women.^2,3 This 6-point photographic scale displays images with grades ranging from 0 (normal) to 5 (bald scalp); higher grades indicate probable and more severe CCCA. The scale also divides the central hair loss in a frontal-accentuation or vertex-predominant pattern, which corresponds to the A or B designations, respectively; thus, a score of 5A indicates probable severe CCCA with a frontal accentuation pattern, while 5B indicates probable severe CCCA with hair loss focused on the vertex scalp. This study was approved by the University of Pennsylvania institutional review board (approval #850730).

Of 108 male patients, 12 met the eligibility criteria. Nearly all patients (91.7% [11/12]) had a CCCA severity grade of 3 or higher at the initial dermatology visit, indicating extensive hair loss (Table). The clinical appearance of severity grades 2 through 5 is demonstrated in the Figure. Among patients with a known disease duration prior to diagnosis, 72.7% (8/11) were diagnosed more than 1 year after onset of CCCA, and 45.4% (5/11) were diagnosed more than 5 years after onset. On average (SD), it took 6.4 (5.9) years for patients to receive a diagnosis of CCCA after the onset of scalp symptoms and/or hair loss.

Randomized controlled trials evaluating treatment of CCCA are lacking, and anecdotal evidence posits a better treatment response in early CCCA; however, our results suggest that most male patients present with advanced CCCA and receive a diagnosis years after disease onset. Similar research in alopecia areata has shown that 72.4% (105/145) of patients received their diagnosis within a year after onset of symptoms, and the mean time from onset of symptoms to diagnosis was 1 year.⁴ In contrast, male patients with CCCA experience considerable diagnostic delays. This disparity indicates the need for clinicians to increase recognition of CCCA in men and quickly refer them to a dermatologist for prompt treatment.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) commonly is at the top of the differential diagnosis for hair loss on the vertex of the scalp in males, but clinicians should maintain a high index of suspicion for CCCA, especially when scalp symptoms or atypical features of AGA are present.⁵ Androgenetic alopecia typically is asymptomatic, whereas the symptoms of CCCA may include itching, tenderness, and/or burning.^6,7 Trichoscopy is useful to evaluate for scarring, and a scalp biopsy may reveal other features to lower AGA on the differential. Educating patients, barbers, and hairstylists about the importance of early intervention also may encourage earlier visits before the scarring process is advanced. Further exploration into factors impacting diagnosis and CCCA severity may uncover implications for prognosis and treatment.

This study was limited by a small sample size, retrospective design, and single-center analysis. Some patients had comorbid hair loss conditions, which could affect disease severity. Moreover, the central scalp alopecia photographic scale² was not validated in men or designed for assessment of the nonclassical hair loss distributions noted in some of our patients. Nonetheless, we hope these data will support clinicians in efforts to advocate for early diagnosis and treatment in patients with CCCA to ultimately help improve outcomes.

Practice Gap

In accordance with World Health Organization guidelines on social distancing to limit transmission of SARS-CoV-2, dermatologists have relied on teledermatology (TD) to develop novel adaptations of traditional workflows, optimize patient care, and limit in-person appointments during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pandemic-induced physical and emotional stress were anticipated to increase the incidence of dermatologic diseases with psychologic triggers. 

The connection between hair loss and emotional stress is well documented for telogen effluvium and alopecia areata.^1,2 As anticipated, dermatology visits increased during the COVID-19 pandemic for the diagnosis of alopecia^1-4; a survey performed during the pandemic found that alopecia was one of the most common diagnoses dermatologists made through telehealth platforms.⁵

This article provides a practical guide for dermatology practitioners to efficiently and accurately assess alopecia by TD in all patients, with added considerations for skin of color patients.

Diagnostic Tools

The intersection of TD, as an effective mechanism for the diagnosis and treatment of dermatologic disorders, and the increase in alopecia observed during the COVID-19 pandemic prompted us to develop a workflow for conducting virtual scalp examinations. Seven dermatologists (A.M., A.A., O.A., N.E., V.C., C.M.B., S.C.T.) who are experts in hair disorders contributed to developing workflows to optimize the assessment of alopecia through a virtual scalp examination, with an emphasis on patients of color. These experts completed a 7-question survey (Table) detailing their approach to the virtual scalp examination. One author (B.N.W.) served as an independent reviewer and collated responses into the following workflows.

Telemedicine Previsit Workflow

Components of the previsit workflow include:

• Instruct patients to provide all laboratory values and biopsy reports before the appointment.

• Test for a stable Wi-Fi connection using a speed test (available at https://www.speedtest.net/). A speed of 10 megabits/second or more is required for high-quality video via TD.⁶

• Provide a handout illustrating the required photographs of the anterior hairline; the mid scalp, including vertex, bilateral parietal, and occipital scalp; and posterior hairline. Photographs should be uploaded 2 hours before the visit. Figures 1 and 2 are examples of photographs that should be requested.

• Request images with 2 or 3 different angles of the area of the scalp with the greatest involvement to help appreciate primary and secondary characteristics.

• Encourage patients to present with clean, recently shampooed, dried, and detangled natural hair, unless they have an itchy or flaky scalp.

• For concerns of scalp, hairline, eyebrow, or facial flaking and scaling, instruct the patient to avoid applying a moisturizer before the visit.

• Instruct the patient to remove false eyelashes, eyelash extensions, eyebrow pencil, hair camouflage, hair accessories, braids, extensions, weaves, twists, and other hairstyles so that the hair can be maneuvered to expose the scalp surface.

• Instruct the patient to have a comb, pic, or brush, or more than one of these implements, available during the visit.

Telemedicine Visit Workflow

Components of the visit workflow include:

• If a stable Wi-Fi connection cannot be established, switch to an audio-only visit to collect a pertinent history. Advise the patient that in-person follow-up must be scheduled.

• Confirm that (1) the patient is in a private setting where the scalp can be viewed and (2) lighting is positioned in front of the patient.

• Ensure that the patient’s hairline, full face, eyebrows, and eyelashes and, upon request, the vertex and posterior scalp, are completely visible.

• Initiate the virtual scalp examination by instructing the patient how to perform a hair pull test. Then, examine the pattern and distribution of hair loss alongside supplemental photographs.

• Instruct the patient to apply pressure with the fingertips throughout the scalp to help localize tenderness, which, in combination with the pattern of hair loss observed, might inform the diagnosis.

• Instruct the patient to scan the scalp with the fingertips for “bumps” to locate papules, pustules, and keloidal scars.

Diagnostic Pearls

Distribution of Alopecia—The experts noted that the pattern, distribution, and location of hair loss determined from the telemedicine alopecia assessment provided important clues to distinguish the type of alopecia.

Diagnostic clues for diffuse or generalized alopecia include:

• Either of these findings might be indicative of telogen effluvium or acquired trichorrhexis nodosa. Results of the hair pull test can help distinguish between these diagnoses.

• Recent stressful life events along with the presence of telogen hairs extracted during a hair pull test support the diagnosis of telogen effluvium.

• A history of external stress on the hair—thermal, traction, or chemical—along with broken hair shafts following the hair pull test support the diagnosis of acquired trichorrhexis nodosa.

Diagnostic clues for focal or patchy alopecia include:

• Alopecia areata generally presents as focal hair loss in an annular distribution; pruritus, erythema, and scale are absent.

• Seborrheic dermatitis can present as pruritic erythematous patches with scale distributed on the scalp and, in some cases, in the eyebrows, nasolabial folds, or paranasal skin.⁷ Some skin of color patients present with petaloid seborrheic dermatitis—pink or hypopigmented polycyclic coalescing rings with minimal scale.^7,8

• Discoid lupus erythematosus, similar to seborrheic dermatitis, might present as pruritic, scaly, hypopigmented patches. However, in the experience of the experts, a more common presentation is tender erythematous patches of hair loss with central hypopigmentation and surrounding hyperpigmentation.

Diagnostic clues for vertex and mid scalp alopecia include:

• Androgenetic alopecia typically presents as a reduction of terminal hair density in the vertex and mid scalp regions (with widening through the midline part) and fine hair along the anterior hairline.⁹ Signs of concomitant hyperandrogenism, including facial hirsutism, acne, and obesity, might be observed.¹⁰

• Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia typically affects the vertex and mid scalp with a shiny scalp appearance and follicular dropout.

Diagnostic clues for frontotemporal alopecia include:

• Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) often presents with spared single terminal hairs (lonely hair sign).

• Traction alopecia commonly presents with the fringe hair sign.

Scalp Symptoms—The experts noted that the presence of symptoms (eg, pain, tenderness, pruritus) in conjunction with the pattern of hair loss might support the diagnosis of an inflammatory scarring alopecia.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia?

• Suspected in the setting of vertex alopecia associated with tenderness, pain, or itching.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of FFA?

• Suspected when patients experience frontotemporal tenderness, pain, or burning associated with alopecia.

• The skin hue of the affected area might be lighter in color than, and contrast with, the darker hue of the photoaged upper forehead.¹¹

• The lonely hair sign can aid in diagnosing FFA and distinguish it from the fringe sign of traction alopecia.

• Concurrent madarosis, flesh-colored papules on the cheeks, or lichen planus pigmentosus identified by visual inspection of the face confirms the diagnosis.^9,12 Madarosis of the eyebrow was frequently cited by the experts as an associated symptom of FFA.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of lichen planopilaris?

• Suspected in the presence of pruritus, burning, tenderness, or pain associated with perifollicular erythema and scale in the setting of vertex and parietal alopecia.¹³

• Anagen hair release is observed during the hair pull test.^11,14• The experts cited flesh-colored papules and lichen planus pigmentosus as frequently associated symptoms of lichen planopilaris.

Practice Implications

There are limitations to a virtual scalp examination—the inability to perform a scalp biopsy or administer certain treatments—but the consensus of the expert panel is that an initial alopecia assessment can be completed successfully utilizing TD. Although TD is not a replacement for an in-person dermatology visit, this technology has allowed for the diagnosis, treatment, and continuing care of many common dermatologic conditions without the patient needing to travel to the office.⁵

With the increased frequency of hair loss concerns documented over the last year and more patients seeking TD, it is imperative that dermatologists feel confident performing a virtual hair and scalp examination on all patients.^1,3,4

Practice Gap

In accordance with World Health Organization guidelines on social distancing to limit transmission of SARS-CoV-2, dermatologists have relied on teledermatology (TD) to develop novel adaptations of traditional workflows, optimize patient care, and limit in-person appointments during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pandemic-induced physical and emotional stress were anticipated to increase the incidence of dermatologic diseases with psychologic triggers. 

The connection between hair loss and emotional stress is well documented for telogen effluvium and alopecia areata.^1,2 As anticipated, dermatology visits increased during the COVID-19 pandemic for the diagnosis of alopecia^1-4; a survey performed during the pandemic found that alopecia was one of the most common diagnoses dermatologists made through telehealth platforms.⁵

This article provides a practical guide for dermatology practitioners to efficiently and accurately assess alopecia by TD in all patients, with added considerations for skin of color patients.

Diagnostic Tools

The intersection of TD, as an effective mechanism for the diagnosis and treatment of dermatologic disorders, and the increase in alopecia observed during the COVID-19 pandemic prompted us to develop a workflow for conducting virtual scalp examinations. Seven dermatologists (A.M., A.A., O.A., N.E., V.C., C.M.B., S.C.T.) who are experts in hair disorders contributed to developing workflows to optimize the assessment of alopecia through a virtual scalp examination, with an emphasis on patients of color. These experts completed a 7-question survey (Table) detailing their approach to the virtual scalp examination. One author (B.N.W.) served as an independent reviewer and collated responses into the following workflows.

Telemedicine Previsit Workflow

Components of the previsit workflow include:

• Instruct patients to provide all laboratory values and biopsy reports before the appointment.

• Test for a stable Wi-Fi connection using a speed test (available at https://www.speedtest.net/). A speed of 10 megabits/second or more is required for high-quality video via TD.⁶

• Provide a handout illustrating the required photographs of the anterior hairline; the mid scalp, including vertex, bilateral parietal, and occipital scalp; and posterior hairline. Photographs should be uploaded 2 hours before the visit. Figures 1 and 2 are examples of photographs that should be requested.

• Request images with 2 or 3 different angles of the area of the scalp with the greatest involvement to help appreciate primary and secondary characteristics.

• Encourage patients to present with clean, recently shampooed, dried, and detangled natural hair, unless they have an itchy or flaky scalp.

• For concerns of scalp, hairline, eyebrow, or facial flaking and scaling, instruct the patient to avoid applying a moisturizer before the visit.

• Instruct the patient to remove false eyelashes, eyelash extensions, eyebrow pencil, hair camouflage, hair accessories, braids, extensions, weaves, twists, and other hairstyles so that the hair can be maneuvered to expose the scalp surface.

• Instruct the patient to have a comb, pic, or brush, or more than one of these implements, available during the visit.

Telemedicine Visit Workflow

Components of the visit workflow include:

• If a stable Wi-Fi connection cannot be established, switch to an audio-only visit to collect a pertinent history. Advise the patient that in-person follow-up must be scheduled.

• Confirm that (1) the patient is in a private setting where the scalp can be viewed and (2) lighting is positioned in front of the patient.

• Ensure that the patient’s hairline, full face, eyebrows, and eyelashes and, upon request, the vertex and posterior scalp, are completely visible.

• Initiate the virtual scalp examination by instructing the patient how to perform a hair pull test. Then, examine the pattern and distribution of hair loss alongside supplemental photographs.

• Instruct the patient to apply pressure with the fingertips throughout the scalp to help localize tenderness, which, in combination with the pattern of hair loss observed, might inform the diagnosis.

• Instruct the patient to scan the scalp with the fingertips for “bumps” to locate papules, pustules, and keloidal scars.

Diagnostic Pearls

Distribution of Alopecia—The experts noted that the pattern, distribution, and location of hair loss determined from the telemedicine alopecia assessment provided important clues to distinguish the type of alopecia.

Diagnostic clues for diffuse or generalized alopecia include:

• Either of these findings might be indicative of telogen effluvium or acquired trichorrhexis nodosa. Results of the hair pull test can help distinguish between these diagnoses.

• Recent stressful life events along with the presence of telogen hairs extracted during a hair pull test support the diagnosis of telogen effluvium.

• A history of external stress on the hair—thermal, traction, or chemical—along with broken hair shafts following the hair pull test support the diagnosis of acquired trichorrhexis nodosa.

Diagnostic clues for focal or patchy alopecia include:

• Alopecia areata generally presents as focal hair loss in an annular distribution; pruritus, erythema, and scale are absent.

• Seborrheic dermatitis can present as pruritic erythematous patches with scale distributed on the scalp and, in some cases, in the eyebrows, nasolabial folds, or paranasal skin.⁷ Some skin of color patients present with petaloid seborrheic dermatitis—pink or hypopigmented polycyclic coalescing rings with minimal scale.^7,8

• Discoid lupus erythematosus, similar to seborrheic dermatitis, might present as pruritic, scaly, hypopigmented patches. However, in the experience of the experts, a more common presentation is tender erythematous patches of hair loss with central hypopigmentation and surrounding hyperpigmentation.

Diagnostic clues for vertex and mid scalp alopecia include:

• Androgenetic alopecia typically presents as a reduction of terminal hair density in the vertex and mid scalp regions (with widening through the midline part) and fine hair along the anterior hairline.⁹ Signs of concomitant hyperandrogenism, including facial hirsutism, acne, and obesity, might be observed.¹⁰

• Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia typically affects the vertex and mid scalp with a shiny scalp appearance and follicular dropout.

Diagnostic clues for frontotemporal alopecia include:

• Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) often presents with spared single terminal hairs (lonely hair sign).

• Traction alopecia commonly presents with the fringe hair sign.

Scalp Symptoms—The experts noted that the presence of symptoms (eg, pain, tenderness, pruritus) in conjunction with the pattern of hair loss might support the diagnosis of an inflammatory scarring alopecia.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia?

• Suspected in the setting of vertex alopecia associated with tenderness, pain, or itching.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of FFA?

• Suspected when patients experience frontotemporal tenderness, pain, or burning associated with alopecia.

• The skin hue of the affected area might be lighter in color than, and contrast with, the darker hue of the photoaged upper forehead.¹¹

• The lonely hair sign can aid in diagnosing FFA and distinguish it from the fringe sign of traction alopecia.

• Concurrent madarosis, flesh-colored papules on the cheeks, or lichen planus pigmentosus identified by visual inspection of the face confirms the diagnosis.^9,12 Madarosis of the eyebrow was frequently cited by the experts as an associated symptom of FFA.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of lichen planopilaris?

• Suspected in the presence of pruritus, burning, tenderness, or pain associated with perifollicular erythema and scale in the setting of vertex and parietal alopecia.¹³

• Anagen hair release is observed during the hair pull test.^11,14• The experts cited flesh-colored papules and lichen planus pigmentosus as frequently associated symptoms of lichen planopilaris.

Practice Implications

There are limitations to a virtual scalp examination—the inability to perform a scalp biopsy or administer certain treatments—but the consensus of the expert panel is that an initial alopecia assessment can be completed successfully utilizing TD. Although TD is not a replacement for an in-person dermatology visit, this technology has allowed for the diagnosis, treatment, and continuing care of many common dermatologic conditions without the patient needing to travel to the office.⁵

With the increased frequency of hair loss concerns documented over the last year and more patients seeking TD, it is imperative that dermatologists feel confident performing a virtual hair and scalp examination on all patients.^1,3,4

Practice Gap

In accordance with World Health Organization guidelines on social distancing to limit transmission of SARS-CoV-2, dermatologists have relied on teledermatology (TD) to develop novel adaptations of traditional workflows, optimize patient care, and limit in-person appointments during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pandemic-induced physical and emotional stress were anticipated to increase the incidence of dermatologic diseases with psychologic triggers. 

The connection between hair loss and emotional stress is well documented for telogen effluvium and alopecia areata.^1,2 As anticipated, dermatology visits increased during the COVID-19 pandemic for the diagnosis of alopecia^1-4; a survey performed during the pandemic found that alopecia was one of the most common diagnoses dermatologists made through telehealth platforms.⁵

This article provides a practical guide for dermatology practitioners to efficiently and accurately assess alopecia by TD in all patients, with added considerations for skin of color patients.

Diagnostic Tools

The intersection of TD, as an effective mechanism for the diagnosis and treatment of dermatologic disorders, and the increase in alopecia observed during the COVID-19 pandemic prompted us to develop a workflow for conducting virtual scalp examinations. Seven dermatologists (A.M., A.A., O.A., N.E., V.C., C.M.B., S.C.T.) who are experts in hair disorders contributed to developing workflows to optimize the assessment of alopecia through a virtual scalp examination, with an emphasis on patients of color. These experts completed a 7-question survey (Table) detailing their approach to the virtual scalp examination. One author (B.N.W.) served as an independent reviewer and collated responses into the following workflows.

Telemedicine Previsit Workflow

Components of the previsit workflow include:

• Instruct patients to provide all laboratory values and biopsy reports before the appointment.

• Test for a stable Wi-Fi connection using a speed test (available at https://www.speedtest.net/). A speed of 10 megabits/second or more is required for high-quality video via TD.⁶

• Provide a handout illustrating the required photographs of the anterior hairline; the mid scalp, including vertex, bilateral parietal, and occipital scalp; and posterior hairline. Photographs should be uploaded 2 hours before the visit. Figures 1 and 2 are examples of photographs that should be requested.

• Request images with 2 or 3 different angles of the area of the scalp with the greatest involvement to help appreciate primary and secondary characteristics.

• Encourage patients to present with clean, recently shampooed, dried, and detangled natural hair, unless they have an itchy or flaky scalp.

• For concerns of scalp, hairline, eyebrow, or facial flaking and scaling, instruct the patient to avoid applying a moisturizer before the visit.

• Instruct the patient to remove false eyelashes, eyelash extensions, eyebrow pencil, hair camouflage, hair accessories, braids, extensions, weaves, twists, and other hairstyles so that the hair can be maneuvered to expose the scalp surface.

• Instruct the patient to have a comb, pic, or brush, or more than one of these implements, available during the visit.

Telemedicine Visit Workflow

Components of the visit workflow include:

• If a stable Wi-Fi connection cannot be established, switch to an audio-only visit to collect a pertinent history. Advise the patient that in-person follow-up must be scheduled.

• Confirm that (1) the patient is in a private setting where the scalp can be viewed and (2) lighting is positioned in front of the patient.

• Ensure that the patient’s hairline, full face, eyebrows, and eyelashes and, upon request, the vertex and posterior scalp, are completely visible.

• Initiate the virtual scalp examination by instructing the patient how to perform a hair pull test. Then, examine the pattern and distribution of hair loss alongside supplemental photographs.

• Instruct the patient to apply pressure with the fingertips throughout the scalp to help localize tenderness, which, in combination with the pattern of hair loss observed, might inform the diagnosis.

• Instruct the patient to scan the scalp with the fingertips for “bumps” to locate papules, pustules, and keloidal scars.

Diagnostic Pearls

Distribution of Alopecia—The experts noted that the pattern, distribution, and location of hair loss determined from the telemedicine alopecia assessment provided important clues to distinguish the type of alopecia.

Diagnostic clues for diffuse or generalized alopecia include:

• Either of these findings might be indicative of telogen effluvium or acquired trichorrhexis nodosa. Results of the hair pull test can help distinguish between these diagnoses.

• Recent stressful life events along with the presence of telogen hairs extracted during a hair pull test support the diagnosis of telogen effluvium.

• A history of external stress on the hair—thermal, traction, or chemical—along with broken hair shafts following the hair pull test support the diagnosis of acquired trichorrhexis nodosa.

Diagnostic clues for focal or patchy alopecia include:

• Alopecia areata generally presents as focal hair loss in an annular distribution; pruritus, erythema, and scale are absent.

• Seborrheic dermatitis can present as pruritic erythematous patches with scale distributed on the scalp and, in some cases, in the eyebrows, nasolabial folds, or paranasal skin.⁷ Some skin of color patients present with petaloid seborrheic dermatitis—pink or hypopigmented polycyclic coalescing rings with minimal scale.^7,8

• Discoid lupus erythematosus, similar to seborrheic dermatitis, might present as pruritic, scaly, hypopigmented patches. However, in the experience of the experts, a more common presentation is tender erythematous patches of hair loss with central hypopigmentation and surrounding hyperpigmentation.

Diagnostic clues for vertex and mid scalp alopecia include:

• Androgenetic alopecia typically presents as a reduction of terminal hair density in the vertex and mid scalp regions (with widening through the midline part) and fine hair along the anterior hairline.⁹ Signs of concomitant hyperandrogenism, including facial hirsutism, acne, and obesity, might be observed.¹⁰

• Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia typically affects the vertex and mid scalp with a shiny scalp appearance and follicular dropout.

Diagnostic clues for frontotemporal alopecia include:

• Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) often presents with spared single terminal hairs (lonely hair sign).

• Traction alopecia commonly presents with the fringe hair sign.

Scalp Symptoms—The experts noted that the presence of symptoms (eg, pain, tenderness, pruritus) in conjunction with the pattern of hair loss might support the diagnosis of an inflammatory scarring alopecia.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia?

• Suspected in the setting of vertex alopecia associated with tenderness, pain, or itching.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of FFA?

• Suspected when patients experience frontotemporal tenderness, pain, or burning associated with alopecia.

• The skin hue of the affected area might be lighter in color than, and contrast with, the darker hue of the photoaged upper forehead.¹¹

• The lonely hair sign can aid in diagnosing FFA and distinguish it from the fringe sign of traction alopecia.

• Concurrent madarosis, flesh-colored papules on the cheeks, or lichen planus pigmentosus identified by visual inspection of the face confirms the diagnosis.^9,12 Madarosis of the eyebrow was frequently cited by the experts as an associated symptom of FFA.

When do symptoms raise suspicion of lichen planopilaris?

• Suspected in the presence of pruritus, burning, tenderness, or pain associated with perifollicular erythema and scale in the setting of vertex and parietal alopecia.¹³

• Anagen hair release is observed during the hair pull test.^11,14• The experts cited flesh-colored papules and lichen planus pigmentosus as frequently associated symptoms of lichen planopilaris.

Practice Implications

There are limitations to a virtual scalp examination—the inability to perform a scalp biopsy or administer certain treatments—but the consensus of the expert panel is that an initial alopecia assessment can be completed successfully utilizing TD. Although TD is not a replacement for an in-person dermatology visit, this technology has allowed for the diagnosis, treatment, and continuing care of many common dermatologic conditions without the patient needing to travel to the office.⁵

With the increased frequency of hair loss concerns documented over the last year and more patients seeking TD, it is imperative that dermatologists feel confident performing a virtual hair and scalp examination on all patients.^1,3,4

The US population is becoming more diverse. By 2044, it is predicted that there will be a majority minority population in the United States.¹ Therefore, it is imperative to continue to develop educational mechanisms for all dermatologists to increase and maintain competency in skin of color dermatology, which will contribute to the achievement of health equity for patients with all skin tones and hair types.

Not only is clinical skin of color education necessary, but diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) education for dermatologists also is critical. Clinical examination,² diagnosis, and treatment of skin and hair disorders across the skin of color spectrum with cultural humility is essential to achieve health equity. If trainees, dermatologists, other specialists, and primary care clinicians are not frequently exposed to patients with darker skin tones and coily hair, the nuances in diagnosing and treating these patients must be learned in alternate ways.

To ready the nation’s physicians and clinicians to care for the growing diverse population, exposure to more images of dermatologic diseases in those with darker skin tones in journal articles, textbooks, conference lectures, and online dermatology image libraries is necessary to help close the skin of color training and practice gap.^3,4 The following initiatives demonstrate how Cutis has sought to address these educational gaps and remains committed to improving DEI education in dermatology.

Collaboration With the Skin of Color Society

The Skin of Color Society (SOCS), which was founded in 2004 by Dr. Susan C. Taylor, is a dermatologic organization with more than 800 members representing 32 countries. Its mission includes promoting awareness and excellence within skin of color dermatology through research, education, and mentorship. The SOCS has utilized strategic partnerships with national and international dermatologists, as well as professional medical organizations and community, industry, and corporate groups, to ultimately ensure that patients with skin of color receive the expert care they deserve.⁵ In 2017, Cutis published the inaugural article in its collaboration with the SOCS,⁶ and more articles, which undergo regular peer review, continue to be published quarterly (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/skin-color).

Increase Number of Journal Articles on Skin of Color Topics

Increasing the number of journal articles on skin of color–related topics needs to be intentional, as it is a tool that has been identified as a necessary part of enhancing awareness and subsequently improving patient care. Wilson et al⁷ used stringent criteria to review all articles published from January 2018 to October 2020 in 52 dermatology journals for inclusion of topics on skin of color, hair in patients with skin of color, diversity and inclusion, and socioeconomic and health care disparities in the skin of color population. The journals they reviewed included publications based on continents with majority skin of color populations, such as Asia, as well as those with minority skin of color populations, such as Europe. During the study period, the percentage of articles covering skin of color ranged from 2.04% to 61.8%, with an average of 16.8%.⁷

The total number of Cutis articles published during the study period was 709, with 132 (18.62%) meeting the investigators’ criteria for articles on skin of color; these included case reports in which at least 1 patient with skin of color was featured.⁷ Overall, Cutis ranked 16th of the 52 journals for inclusion of skin of color content. Cutis was one of only a few journals based in North America, a non–skin-of-color–predominant continent, to make the top 16 in this study.⁷

Some of the 132 skin of color articles published in Cutis were the result of the journal’s collaboration with the SOCS. Through this collaboration, articles were published on a variety of skin of color topics, including DEI (6), alopecia and hair care (5), dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging (1), atopic dermatitis (1), cosmetics (1), hidradenitis suppurativa (1), pigmentation (1), rosacea (1), and skin cancer (2). These articles also resulted in a number of podcast discussions (https://www.mdedge.com/podcasts/dermatology-weekly), including one on dealing with DEI, one on pigmentation, and one on dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging. The latter featured the SOCS Scientific Symposium poster winners in 2020.

The number of articles published specifically through Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS accounted for only a small part of the journal’s 132 skin of color articles identified in the study by Wilson et al.⁷ We speculate that Cutis’s display of intentional commitment to supporting the inclusion of skin of color articles in the journal may in turn encourage its broader readership to submit more skin of color–focused articles for peer review.

Wilson et al⁷ specifically remarked that “Cutis’s [Skin of Color] section in each issue is a promising idea.” They also highlighted Clinics in Dermatology for committing an entire issue to skin of color; however, despite this initiative, Clinics in Dermatology still ranked 35th of 52 journals with regard to the overall percentage of skin of color articles published.⁷ This suggests that a journal publishing one special issue on skin of color annually is a helpful addition to the literature, but increasing the number of articles related to skin of color in each journal issue, similar to Cutis, will ultimately result in a higher overall number of skin of color articles in the dermatology literature.

Both Amuzie et al⁴ and Wilson et al⁷ concluded that the higher a journal’s impact factor, the lower the number of skin of color articles published.However, skin of color articles published in high-impact journals received a higher number of citations than those in other lower-impact journals.⁴ High-impact journals may use Cutis as a model for increasing the number of skin of color articles they publish, which will have a notable impact on increasing skin of color knowledge and educating dermatologists.

Coverage of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion

In another study, Bray et al⁸ conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from January 2008 to July 2019 to quantify the number of articles specifically focused on DEI in a variety of medical specialties. The field of dermatology had the highest number of articles published on DEI (25) compared to the other specialties, including family medicine (23), orthopedic surgery (12), internal medicine (9), general surgery (7), radiology (6), ophthalmology (2), and anesthesiology (2).⁸ However, Wilson et al⁷ found that, out of all the categories of skin of color articles published in dermatology journals during their study period, those focused on DEI made up less than 1% of the total number of articles. Dermatology is off to a great start compared to other specialties, but there is still more work to do in dermatology for DEI. Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS has resulted in 6 DEI articles published since 2017.

Think Beyond Dermatology Education

The collaboration between Cutis and the SOCS was established to create a series of articles dedicated to increasing the skin of color dermatology knowledge base of the Cutis readership and beyond; however, increased readership and more citations are needed to amplify the reach of the articles published by these skin of color experts. Cutis’s collaboration with SOCS is one mechanism to increase the skin of color literature, but skin of color and DEI articles outside of this collaboration should continue to be published in each issue of Cutis.

The collaboration between SOCS and Cutis was and continues to be a forward-thinking step toward improving skin of color dermatology education, but there is still work to be done across the medical literature with regard to increasing intentional publication of skin of color articles. Nondermatologist clinicians in the Cutis readership benefit from knowledge of skin of color, as all specialties and primary care will see increased patient diversity in their examination rooms.

To further ensure that primary care is not left behind, Cutis has partnered with The Journal of Family Practice to produce a new column called Dx Across the Skin of Color Spectrum (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/dx-across-skin-color-spectrum), which is co-published in both journals.^9,10 These one-page fact sheets highlight images of dermatologic conditions in skin of color as well as images of the same condition in lighter skin, a concept suggested by Cutis Associate Editor, Dr. Candrice R. Heath. The goal of this new column is to increase the accurate diagnosis of dermatologic conditions in skin of color and to highlight health disparities related to a particular condition in an easy-to-understand format. Uniquely, Dr. Heath co-authors this content with family physician Dr. Richard P. Usatine.

Final Thoughts

The entire community of medical journals should continue to develop creative ways to educate their readership. Medical professionals stay up-to-date on best practices through journal articles, textbooks, conferences, and even podcasts. Therefore, it is best to incorporate skin of color knowledge throughout all educational programming, particularly through enduring materials such as journal articles. Wilson et al⁷ suggested that a minimum of 16.8% of a dermatology journal’s articles in each issue should focus on skin of color in addition to special focus issues, as this will work toward more equitable dermatologic care.

Knowledge is only part of the equation; compassionate care with cultural humility is the other part. Publishing scientific facts about biology and structure, diagnosis, and treatment selection in skin of color, as well as committing to lifelong learning about the differences in our patients despite the absence of shared life or cultural experiences, may be the key to truly impacting health equity.¹¹ We believe that together we will get there one journal article and one citation at a time.

The US population is becoming more diverse. By 2044, it is predicted that there will be a majority minority population in the United States.¹ Therefore, it is imperative to continue to develop educational mechanisms for all dermatologists to increase and maintain competency in skin of color dermatology, which will contribute to the achievement of health equity for patients with all skin tones and hair types.

Not only is clinical skin of color education necessary, but diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) education for dermatologists also is critical. Clinical examination,² diagnosis, and treatment of skin and hair disorders across the skin of color spectrum with cultural humility is essential to achieve health equity. If trainees, dermatologists, other specialists, and primary care clinicians are not frequently exposed to patients with darker skin tones and coily hair, the nuances in diagnosing and treating these patients must be learned in alternate ways.

To ready the nation’s physicians and clinicians to care for the growing diverse population, exposure to more images of dermatologic diseases in those with darker skin tones in journal articles, textbooks, conference lectures, and online dermatology image libraries is necessary to help close the skin of color training and practice gap.^3,4 The following initiatives demonstrate how Cutis has sought to address these educational gaps and remains committed to improving DEI education in dermatology.

Collaboration With the Skin of Color Society

The Skin of Color Society (SOCS), which was founded in 2004 by Dr. Susan C. Taylor, is a dermatologic organization with more than 800 members representing 32 countries. Its mission includes promoting awareness and excellence within skin of color dermatology through research, education, and mentorship. The SOCS has utilized strategic partnerships with national and international dermatologists, as well as professional medical organizations and community, industry, and corporate groups, to ultimately ensure that patients with skin of color receive the expert care they deserve.⁵ In 2017, Cutis published the inaugural article in its collaboration with the SOCS,⁶ and more articles, which undergo regular peer review, continue to be published quarterly (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/skin-color).

Increase Number of Journal Articles on Skin of Color Topics

Increasing the number of journal articles on skin of color–related topics needs to be intentional, as it is a tool that has been identified as a necessary part of enhancing awareness and subsequently improving patient care. Wilson et al⁷ used stringent criteria to review all articles published from January 2018 to October 2020 in 52 dermatology journals for inclusion of topics on skin of color, hair in patients with skin of color, diversity and inclusion, and socioeconomic and health care disparities in the skin of color population. The journals they reviewed included publications based on continents with majority skin of color populations, such as Asia, as well as those with minority skin of color populations, such as Europe. During the study period, the percentage of articles covering skin of color ranged from 2.04% to 61.8%, with an average of 16.8%.⁷

The total number of Cutis articles published during the study period was 709, with 132 (18.62%) meeting the investigators’ criteria for articles on skin of color; these included case reports in which at least 1 patient with skin of color was featured.⁷ Overall, Cutis ranked 16th of the 52 journals for inclusion of skin of color content. Cutis was one of only a few journals based in North America, a non–skin-of-color–predominant continent, to make the top 16 in this study.⁷

Some of the 132 skin of color articles published in Cutis were the result of the journal’s collaboration with the SOCS. Through this collaboration, articles were published on a variety of skin of color topics, including DEI (6), alopecia and hair care (5), dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging (1), atopic dermatitis (1), cosmetics (1), hidradenitis suppurativa (1), pigmentation (1), rosacea (1), and skin cancer (2). These articles also resulted in a number of podcast discussions (https://www.mdedge.com/podcasts/dermatology-weekly), including one on dealing with DEI, one on pigmentation, and one on dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging. The latter featured the SOCS Scientific Symposium poster winners in 2020.

The number of articles published specifically through Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS accounted for only a small part of the journal’s 132 skin of color articles identified in the study by Wilson et al.⁷ We speculate that Cutis’s display of intentional commitment to supporting the inclusion of skin of color articles in the journal may in turn encourage its broader readership to submit more skin of color–focused articles for peer review.

Wilson et al⁷ specifically remarked that “Cutis’s [Skin of Color] section in each issue is a promising idea.” They also highlighted Clinics in Dermatology for committing an entire issue to skin of color; however, despite this initiative, Clinics in Dermatology still ranked 35th of 52 journals with regard to the overall percentage of skin of color articles published.⁷ This suggests that a journal publishing one special issue on skin of color annually is a helpful addition to the literature, but increasing the number of articles related to skin of color in each journal issue, similar to Cutis, will ultimately result in a higher overall number of skin of color articles in the dermatology literature.

Both Amuzie et al⁴ and Wilson et al⁷ concluded that the higher a journal’s impact factor, the lower the number of skin of color articles published.However, skin of color articles published in high-impact journals received a higher number of citations than those in other lower-impact journals.⁴ High-impact journals may use Cutis as a model for increasing the number of skin of color articles they publish, which will have a notable impact on increasing skin of color knowledge and educating dermatologists.

Coverage of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion

In another study, Bray et al⁸ conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from January 2008 to July 2019 to quantify the number of articles specifically focused on DEI in a variety of medical specialties. The field of dermatology had the highest number of articles published on DEI (25) compared to the other specialties, including family medicine (23), orthopedic surgery (12), internal medicine (9), general surgery (7), radiology (6), ophthalmology (2), and anesthesiology (2).⁸ However, Wilson et al⁷ found that, out of all the categories of skin of color articles published in dermatology journals during their study period, those focused on DEI made up less than 1% of the total number of articles. Dermatology is off to a great start compared to other specialties, but there is still more work to do in dermatology for DEI. Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS has resulted in 6 DEI articles published since 2017.

Think Beyond Dermatology Education

The collaboration between Cutis and the SOCS was established to create a series of articles dedicated to increasing the skin of color dermatology knowledge base of the Cutis readership and beyond; however, increased readership and more citations are needed to amplify the reach of the articles published by these skin of color experts. Cutis’s collaboration with SOCS is one mechanism to increase the skin of color literature, but skin of color and DEI articles outside of this collaboration should continue to be published in each issue of Cutis.

The collaboration between SOCS and Cutis was and continues to be a forward-thinking step toward improving skin of color dermatology education, but there is still work to be done across the medical literature with regard to increasing intentional publication of skin of color articles. Nondermatologist clinicians in the Cutis readership benefit from knowledge of skin of color, as all specialties and primary care will see increased patient diversity in their examination rooms.

To further ensure that primary care is not left behind, Cutis has partnered with The Journal of Family Practice to produce a new column called Dx Across the Skin of Color Spectrum (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/dx-across-skin-color-spectrum), which is co-published in both journals.^9,10 These one-page fact sheets highlight images of dermatologic conditions in skin of color as well as images of the same condition in lighter skin, a concept suggested by Cutis Associate Editor, Dr. Candrice R. Heath. The goal of this new column is to increase the accurate diagnosis of dermatologic conditions in skin of color and to highlight health disparities related to a particular condition in an easy-to-understand format. Uniquely, Dr. Heath co-authors this content with family physician Dr. Richard P. Usatine.

Final Thoughts

The entire community of medical journals should continue to develop creative ways to educate their readership. Medical professionals stay up-to-date on best practices through journal articles, textbooks, conferences, and even podcasts. Therefore, it is best to incorporate skin of color knowledge throughout all educational programming, particularly through enduring materials such as journal articles. Wilson et al⁷ suggested that a minimum of 16.8% of a dermatology journal’s articles in each issue should focus on skin of color in addition to special focus issues, as this will work toward more equitable dermatologic care.

Knowledge is only part of the equation; compassionate care with cultural humility is the other part. Publishing scientific facts about biology and structure, diagnosis, and treatment selection in skin of color, as well as committing to lifelong learning about the differences in our patients despite the absence of shared life or cultural experiences, may be the key to truly impacting health equity.¹¹ We believe that together we will get there one journal article and one citation at a time.

The US population is becoming more diverse. By 2044, it is predicted that there will be a majority minority population in the United States.¹ Therefore, it is imperative to continue to develop educational mechanisms for all dermatologists to increase and maintain competency in skin of color dermatology, which will contribute to the achievement of health equity for patients with all skin tones and hair types.

Not only is clinical skin of color education necessary, but diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) education for dermatologists also is critical. Clinical examination,² diagnosis, and treatment of skin and hair disorders across the skin of color spectrum with cultural humility is essential to achieve health equity. If trainees, dermatologists, other specialists, and primary care clinicians are not frequently exposed to patients with darker skin tones and coily hair, the nuances in diagnosing and treating these patients must be learned in alternate ways.

To ready the nation’s physicians and clinicians to care for the growing diverse population, exposure to more images of dermatologic diseases in those with darker skin tones in journal articles, textbooks, conference lectures, and online dermatology image libraries is necessary to help close the skin of color training and practice gap.^3,4 The following initiatives demonstrate how Cutis has sought to address these educational gaps and remains committed to improving DEI education in dermatology.

Collaboration With the Skin of Color Society

The Skin of Color Society (SOCS), which was founded in 2004 by Dr. Susan C. Taylor, is a dermatologic organization with more than 800 members representing 32 countries. Its mission includes promoting awareness and excellence within skin of color dermatology through research, education, and mentorship. The SOCS has utilized strategic partnerships with national and international dermatologists, as well as professional medical organizations and community, industry, and corporate groups, to ultimately ensure that patients with skin of color receive the expert care they deserve.⁵ In 2017, Cutis published the inaugural article in its collaboration with the SOCS,⁶ and more articles, which undergo regular peer review, continue to be published quarterly (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/skin-color).

Increase Number of Journal Articles on Skin of Color Topics

Increasing the number of journal articles on skin of color–related topics needs to be intentional, as it is a tool that has been identified as a necessary part of enhancing awareness and subsequently improving patient care. Wilson et al⁷ used stringent criteria to review all articles published from January 2018 to October 2020 in 52 dermatology journals for inclusion of topics on skin of color, hair in patients with skin of color, diversity and inclusion, and socioeconomic and health care disparities in the skin of color population. The journals they reviewed included publications based on continents with majority skin of color populations, such as Asia, as well as those with minority skin of color populations, such as Europe. During the study period, the percentage of articles covering skin of color ranged from 2.04% to 61.8%, with an average of 16.8%.⁷

The total number of Cutis articles published during the study period was 709, with 132 (18.62%) meeting the investigators’ criteria for articles on skin of color; these included case reports in which at least 1 patient with skin of color was featured.⁷ Overall, Cutis ranked 16th of the 52 journals for inclusion of skin of color content. Cutis was one of only a few journals based in North America, a non–skin-of-color–predominant continent, to make the top 16 in this study.⁷

Some of the 132 skin of color articles published in Cutis were the result of the journal’s collaboration with the SOCS. Through this collaboration, articles were published on a variety of skin of color topics, including DEI (6), alopecia and hair care (5), dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging (1), atopic dermatitis (1), cosmetics (1), hidradenitis suppurativa (1), pigmentation (1), rosacea (1), and skin cancer (2). These articles also resulted in a number of podcast discussions (https://www.mdedge.com/podcasts/dermatology-weekly), including one on dealing with DEI, one on pigmentation, and one on dermoscopy/optical coherence tomography imaging. The latter featured the SOCS Scientific Symposium poster winners in 2020.

The number of articles published specifically through Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS accounted for only a small part of the journal’s 132 skin of color articles identified in the study by Wilson et al.⁷ We speculate that Cutis’s display of intentional commitment to supporting the inclusion of skin of color articles in the journal may in turn encourage its broader readership to submit more skin of color–focused articles for peer review.

Wilson et al⁷ specifically remarked that “Cutis’s [Skin of Color] section in each issue is a promising idea.” They also highlighted Clinics in Dermatology for committing an entire issue to skin of color; however, despite this initiative, Clinics in Dermatology still ranked 35th of 52 journals with regard to the overall percentage of skin of color articles published.⁷ This suggests that a journal publishing one special issue on skin of color annually is a helpful addition to the literature, but increasing the number of articles related to skin of color in each journal issue, similar to Cutis, will ultimately result in a higher overall number of skin of color articles in the dermatology literature.

Both Amuzie et al⁴ and Wilson et al⁷ concluded that the higher a journal’s impact factor, the lower the number of skin of color articles published.However, skin of color articles published in high-impact journals received a higher number of citations than those in other lower-impact journals.⁴ High-impact journals may use Cutis as a model for increasing the number of skin of color articles they publish, which will have a notable impact on increasing skin of color knowledge and educating dermatologists.

Coverage of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion

In another study, Bray et al⁸ conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from January 2008 to July 2019 to quantify the number of articles specifically focused on DEI in a variety of medical specialties. The field of dermatology had the highest number of articles published on DEI (25) compared to the other specialties, including family medicine (23), orthopedic surgery (12), internal medicine (9), general surgery (7), radiology (6), ophthalmology (2), and anesthesiology (2).⁸ However, Wilson et al⁷ found that, out of all the categories of skin of color articles published in dermatology journals during their study period, those focused on DEI made up less than 1% of the total number of articles. Dermatology is off to a great start compared to other specialties, but there is still more work to do in dermatology for DEI. Cutis’s collaboration with the SOCS has resulted in 6 DEI articles published since 2017.

Think Beyond Dermatology Education

The collaboration between Cutis and the SOCS was established to create a series of articles dedicated to increasing the skin of color dermatology knowledge base of the Cutis readership and beyond; however, increased readership and more citations are needed to amplify the reach of the articles published by these skin of color experts. Cutis’s collaboration with SOCS is one mechanism to increase the skin of color literature, but skin of color and DEI articles outside of this collaboration should continue to be published in each issue of Cutis.

The collaboration between SOCS and Cutis was and continues to be a forward-thinking step toward improving skin of color dermatology education, but there is still work to be done across the medical literature with regard to increasing intentional publication of skin of color articles. Nondermatologist clinicians in the Cutis readership benefit from knowledge of skin of color, as all specialties and primary care will see increased patient diversity in their examination rooms.

To further ensure that primary care is not left behind, Cutis has partnered with The Journal of Family Practice to produce a new column called Dx Across the Skin of Color Spectrum (https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/dx-across-skin-color-spectrum), which is co-published in both journals.^9,10 These one-page fact sheets highlight images of dermatologic conditions in skin of color as well as images of the same condition in lighter skin, a concept suggested by Cutis Associate Editor, Dr. Candrice R. Heath. The goal of this new column is to increase the accurate diagnosis of dermatologic conditions in skin of color and to highlight health disparities related to a particular condition in an easy-to-understand format. Uniquely, Dr. Heath co-authors this content with family physician Dr. Richard P. Usatine.

Final Thoughts

The entire community of medical journals should continue to develop creative ways to educate their readership. Medical professionals stay up-to-date on best practices through journal articles, textbooks, conferences, and even podcasts. Therefore, it is best to incorporate skin of color knowledge throughout all educational programming, particularly through enduring materials such as journal articles. Wilson et al⁷ suggested that a minimum of 16.8% of a dermatology journal’s articles in each issue should focus on skin of color in addition to special focus issues, as this will work toward more equitable dermatologic care.

Knowledge is only part of the equation; compassionate care with cultural humility is the other part. Publishing scientific facts about biology and structure, diagnosis, and treatment selection in skin of color, as well as committing to lifelong learning about the differences in our patients despite the absence of shared life or cultural experiences, may be the key to truly impacting health equity.¹¹ We believe that together we will get there one journal article and one citation at a time.

Dermatologic treatment of patients with skin of color offers specific challenges. Studies have reported structural, morphologic, and physiologic distinctions among different ethnic groups,¹ which may account for distinct clinical presentations of skin disease seen in patients with skin of color. Patients with skin of color are at increased risk for specific dermatologic conditions, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, keloid development, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia.^2,3 Furthermore, although skin cancer is less prevalent in patients with skin of color, it often presents at a more advanced stage and with a worse prognosis compared to white patients.⁴

Individuals with skin of color make up the majority of the world’s population and a rapidly expanding portion of the US population. By the year 2044, more than half of all Americans are projected to belong to an ethnic group that is currently a minority. By 2060, the population of citizens identifying with 2 or more races will increase by 226%, the Asian population is projected to grow by 128%, the Hispanic population will increase by 115%, and the black population will increase by 42%.⁵ The racial and ethnic composition of the United States is evolving, and dermatologic care must evolve accordingly to address patients’ unique concerns. It is essential for future dermatologists to be knowledgeable about dermatologic conditions presenting in patients of various ethnic backgrounds.

Prior studies have demonstrated the need for increased exposure, education, and training in diseases pertaining to skin of color in US dermatology residency programs.^6-8 The aim of this study was to assess if dermatologists in-training feel that their residency curriculum sufficiently educates them on the needs of patients with skin of color.

Methods

A 10-question anonymous survey was emailed to 109 dermatology residency programs to evaluate the attitudes of dermatology residents about their exposure to patients with skin of color and their skin-of-color curriculum. The study included individuals 18 years or older who were current residents in a dermatology program accredited by the Accreditation Council for Graduate Medical Education. Responses were measured on a 1 to 3 Likert scale, ranging from agree, neutral, and disagree. Data were analyzed using the Fisher exact test, and the statistical significance was set at P<.05.

Results

Forty-three dermatology residents completed the survey. Respondents self-selected their regions, with 8 (19%) from the Northeast (NE), 7 (16%) from the Southeast (SE), 12 (28%) from the Midwest (MW), 8 (19%) from the Southwest (SW), and 8 (18%) from the Northwest (NW)(Table 1). Overall, 31 (72%) respondents agreed that their practice treats a diverse patient population. Respondents who agreed most often were from the NE, SE, and SW. Less than two-thirds of respondents from the MW agreed, and only half of respondents from the NW agreed (Table 2). Although 37% of all respondents agreed that a dedicated multiethnic skin clinic is important for residents, 5 (63%) NE residents disagreed with this statement compared to 5 (42%) MW residents and 5 (63%) NW residents who agreed (P<.005). Overall, 39 (91%) respondents agreed that dedicated lectures on skin conditions in skin of color patients are important to gain competence in treating patients. Only 4 respondents were neutral to this question, 2 (17%) MW residents and 2 (25%) SW residents. When asked if reading textbook chapters on multiethnic skin is important to gain competence, 36 (83%) respondents agreed. Two respondents disagreed, 1 (13%) from the NE and 1 (8%) from the MW. Overall, 23% of respondents agreed that a rotation dedicated to skin of color is important to build competency. There was a significant difference in responses between the NE and MW (P=.032) and between the NE and NW (P=.019). Furthermore, 19 (44%) respondents agreed that having a faculty member or departmental expert is important for residents to gain competence in treating conditions affecting skin of color. Again, there was a significant difference in responses between the NE and MW (P=.003) and between the SE and MW (P=.009).

When asked the number of hours of lecture per month necessary to gain competence in conditions affecting patients with skin of color, 67% agreed that 1 to 5 hours was sufficient (Table 3). There were significant differences in the responses between the NE and SE (P=.024) and the SE and MW (P=.007). Of all respondents, 53% reported 1 to 5 months of clinical training are needed to gain competence in treating conditions affecting patients with skin of color, with significant differences in responses between the NE and MW (P<.001), the NE and SW (P=.019), and the SE and MW (P=.015)(Table 4).

Comment

Responses varied by practicing region. Less ethnically diverse regions, such as the MW and NW, were more likely to agree that dedicated clinics and rotations are important to gain competence compared to more ethnically diverse regions such as the NE, SE, and SW. Overall, more residents reported that dedicated lectures and textbook chapters were important to gain competency compared to dedicated clinics or rotations.

Although interactive lectures and textbook readings are important for obtaining a foundational understanding of dermatologic disease, they cannot substitute for clinical interactions and hands-on experience treating patients with skin of color.⁹ Not only do clinical interactions encourage independent reading and the study of encountered diagnoses, but intercommunication with patients may have a more profound and lasting impact on residents’ education.

Different regions of the United States have varying distributions of patients with skin of color, and dermatology residency program training reflects these disparities.⁶ In areas of less diversity, dermatology residents examine, diagnose, and treat substantially fewer patients with skin of color. The desire for more diverse training supports the prior findings of Nijhawan et al⁶ and is reflected in the responses we received in our study, whereby residents from the less ethnically diversified regions of the MW and NW were more likely to agree that clinics and rotations were necessary for training in preparation to sufficiently address the needs of patients with skin of color.

One way to compensate for the lack of ethnic diversity encountered in areas such as the MW and NW would be to develop educational programs featuring experts on skin of color.⁶ These specialists would not only train dermatology residents in areas of the country currently lacking ethnic diversity but also expand the expertise for treating patients with skin of color. Additionally, dedicated multiethnic skin clinics and externships devoted solely to treating patients with skin of color could be encouraged for residency training.⁶ Finally, community outreach through volunteer clinics may provide residents exposure to patients with skin of color seeking dermatologic care.¹⁰

This study was limited by the small number of respondents, but we were able to extract important trends and data from the collected responses. It is possible that respondents felt strongly about topics involving patients with skin of color, and the results were skewed to reflect individual bias. Additional limitations included not asking respondents for program names and population density (eg, urban, suburban, rural). Future studies should be directed toward analyzing how the diversity of the local population influences training in patients with skin of color, comparing program directors’ perceptions with residents’ perceptions on training in skin of color, and assessing patient perception of residents’ training in skin of color.

Conclusion

In the last decade it has become increasingly apparent that the US population is diversifying and that patients with skin of color will comprise a substantial proportion of the future population,^8,11 which emphasizes the need for dermatology residency programs to ensure that residents receive adequate training and exposure to patients with skin of color as well as the distinct skin diseases seen more commonly in these populations.¹²

Dermatologic treatment of patients with skin of color offers specific challenges. Studies have reported structural, morphologic, and physiologic distinctions among different ethnic groups,¹ which may account for distinct clinical presentations of skin disease seen in patients with skin of color. Patients with skin of color are at increased risk for specific dermatologic conditions, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, keloid development, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia.^2,3 Furthermore, although skin cancer is less prevalent in patients with skin of color, it often presents at a more advanced stage and with a worse prognosis compared to white patients.⁴

Individuals with skin of color make up the majority of the world’s population and a rapidly expanding portion of the US population. By the year 2044, more than half of all Americans are projected to belong to an ethnic group that is currently a minority. By 2060, the population of citizens identifying with 2 or more races will increase by 226%, the Asian population is projected to grow by 128%, the Hispanic population will increase by 115%, and the black population will increase by 42%.⁵ The racial and ethnic composition of the United States is evolving, and dermatologic care must evolve accordingly to address patients’ unique concerns. It is essential for future dermatologists to be knowledgeable about dermatologic conditions presenting in patients of various ethnic backgrounds.

Prior studies have demonstrated the need for increased exposure, education, and training in diseases pertaining to skin of color in US dermatology residency programs.^6-8 The aim of this study was to assess if dermatologists in-training feel that their residency curriculum sufficiently educates them on the needs of patients with skin of color.

Methods

A 10-question anonymous survey was emailed to 109 dermatology residency programs to evaluate the attitudes of dermatology residents about their exposure to patients with skin of color and their skin-of-color curriculum. The study included individuals 18 years or older who were current residents in a dermatology program accredited by the Accreditation Council for Graduate Medical Education. Responses were measured on a 1 to 3 Likert scale, ranging from agree, neutral, and disagree. Data were analyzed using the Fisher exact test, and the statistical significance was set at P<.05.

Results

Forty-three dermatology residents completed the survey. Respondents self-selected their regions, with 8 (19%) from the Northeast (NE), 7 (16%) from the Southeast (SE), 12 (28%) from the Midwest (MW), 8 (19%) from the Southwest (SW), and 8 (18%) from the Northwest (NW)(Table 1). Overall, 31 (72%) respondents agreed that their practice treats a diverse patient population. Respondents who agreed most often were from the NE, SE, and SW. Less than two-thirds of respondents from the MW agreed, and only half of respondents from the NW agreed (Table 2). Although 37% of all respondents agreed that a dedicated multiethnic skin clinic is important for residents, 5 (63%) NE residents disagreed with this statement compared to 5 (42%) MW residents and 5 (63%) NW residents who agreed (P<.005). Overall, 39 (91%) respondents agreed that dedicated lectures on skin conditions in skin of color patients are important to gain competence in treating patients. Only 4 respondents were neutral to this question, 2 (17%) MW residents and 2 (25%) SW residents. When asked if reading textbook chapters on multiethnic skin is important to gain competence, 36 (83%) respondents agreed. Two respondents disagreed, 1 (13%) from the NE and 1 (8%) from the MW. Overall, 23% of respondents agreed that a rotation dedicated to skin of color is important to build competency. There was a significant difference in responses between the NE and MW (P=.032) and between the NE and NW (P=.019). Furthermore, 19 (44%) respondents agreed that having a faculty member or departmental expert is important for residents to gain competence in treating conditions affecting skin of color. Again, there was a significant difference in responses between the NE and MW (P=.003) and between the SE and MW (P=.009).

When asked the number of hours of lecture per month necessary to gain competence in conditions affecting patients with skin of color, 67% agreed that 1 to 5 hours was sufficient (Table 3). There were significant differences in the responses between the NE and SE (P=.024) and the SE and MW (P=.007). Of all respondents, 53% reported 1 to 5 months of clinical training are needed to gain competence in treating conditions affecting patients with skin of color, with significant differences in responses between the NE and MW (P<.001), the NE and SW (P=.019), and the SE and MW (P=.015)(Table 4).

Comment

Responses varied by practicing region. Less ethnically diverse regions, such as the MW and NW, were more likely to agree that dedicated clinics and rotations are important to gain competence compared to more ethnically diverse regions such as the NE, SE, and SW. Overall, more residents reported that dedicated lectures and textbook chapters were important to gain competency compared to dedicated clinics or rotations.

Although interactive lectures and textbook readings are important for obtaining a foundational understanding of dermatologic disease, they cannot substitute for clinical interactions and hands-on experience treating patients with skin of color.⁹ Not only do clinical interactions encourage independent reading and the study of encountered diagnoses, but intercommunication with patients may have a more profound and lasting impact on residents’ education.

Different regions of the United States have varying distributions of patients with skin of color, and dermatology residency program training reflects these disparities.⁶ In areas of less diversity, dermatology residents examine, diagnose, and treat substantially fewer patients with skin of color. The desire for more diverse training supports the prior findings of Nijhawan et al⁶ and is reflected in the responses we received in our study, whereby residents from the less ethnically diversified regions of the MW and NW were more likely to agree that clinics and rotations were necessary for training in preparation to sufficiently address the needs of patients with skin of color.

One way to compensate for the lack of ethnic diversity encountered in areas such as the MW and NW would be to develop educational programs featuring experts on skin of color.⁶ These specialists would not only train dermatology residents in areas of the country currently lacking ethnic diversity but also expand the expertise for treating patients with skin of color. Additionally, dedicated multiethnic skin clinics and externships devoted solely to treating patients with skin of color could be encouraged for residency training.⁶ Finally, community outreach through volunteer clinics may provide residents exposure to patients with skin of color seeking dermatologic care.¹⁰

This study was limited by the small number of respondents, but we were able to extract important trends and data from the collected responses. It is possible that respondents felt strongly about topics involving patients with skin of color, and the results were skewed to reflect individual bias. Additional limitations included not asking respondents for program names and population density (eg, urban, suburban, rural). Future studies should be directed toward analyzing how the diversity of the local population influences training in patients with skin of color, comparing program directors’ perceptions with residents’ perceptions on training in skin of color, and assessing patient perception of residents’ training in skin of color.

Conclusion

In the last decade it has become increasingly apparent that the US population is diversifying and that patients with skin of color will comprise a substantial proportion of the future population,^8,11 which emphasizes the need for dermatology residency programs to ensure that residents receive adequate training and exposure to patients with skin of color as well as the distinct skin diseases seen more commonly in these populations.¹²

Dermatologic treatment of patients with skin of color offers specific challenges. Studies have reported structural, morphologic, and physiologic distinctions among different ethnic groups,¹ which may account for distinct clinical presentations of skin disease seen in patients with skin of color. Patients with skin of color are at increased risk for specific dermatologic conditions, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, keloid development, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia.^2,3 Furthermore, although skin cancer is less prevalent in patients with skin of color, it often presents at a more advanced stage and with a worse prognosis compared to white patients.⁴

Individuals with skin of color make up the majority of the world’s population and a rapidly expanding portion of the US population. By the year 2044, more than half of all Americans are projected to belong to an ethnic group that is currently a minority. By 2060, the population of citizens identifying with 2 or more races will increase by 226%, the Asian population is projected to grow by 128%, the Hispanic population will increase by 115%, and the black population will increase by 42%.⁵ The racial and ethnic composition of the United States is evolving, and dermatologic care must evolve accordingly to address patients’ unique concerns. It is essential for future dermatologists to be knowledgeable about dermatologic conditions presenting in patients of various ethnic backgrounds.

Prior studies have demonstrated the need for increased exposure, education, and training in diseases pertaining to skin of color in US dermatology residency programs.^6-8 The aim of this study was to assess if dermatologists in-training feel that their residency curriculum sufficiently educates them on the needs of patients with skin of color.

Methods

A 10-question anonymous survey was emailed to 109 dermatology residency programs to evaluate the attitudes of dermatology residents about their exposure to patients with skin of color and their skin-of-color curriculum. The study included individuals 18 years or older who were current residents in a dermatology program accredited by the Accreditation Council for Graduate Medical Education. Responses were measured on a 1 to 3 Likert scale, ranging from agree, neutral, and disagree. Data were analyzed using the Fisher exact test, and the statistical significance was set at P<.05.

Results

Forty-three dermatology residents completed the survey. Respondents self-selected their regions, with 8 (19%) from the Northeast (NE), 7 (16%) from the Southeast (SE), 12 (28%) from the Midwest (MW), 8 (19%) from the Southwest (SW), and 8 (18%) from the Northwest (NW)(Table 1). Overall, 31 (72%) respondents agreed that their practice treats a diverse patient population. Respondents who agreed most often were from the NE, SE, and SW. Less than two-thirds of respondents from the MW agreed, and only half of respondents from the NW agreed (Table 2). Although 37% of all respondents agreed that a dedicated multiethnic skin clinic is important for residents, 5 (63%) NE residents disagreed with this statement compared to 5 (42%) MW residents and 5 (63%) NW residents who agreed (P<.005). Overall, 39 (91%) respondents agreed that dedicated lectures on skin conditions in skin of color patients are important to gain competence in treating patients. Only 4 respondents were neutral to this question, 2 (17%) MW residents and 2 (25%) SW residents. When asked if reading textbook chapters on multiethnic skin is important to gain competence, 36 (83%) respondents agreed. Two respondents disagreed, 1 (13%) from the NE and 1 (8%) from the MW. Overall, 23% of respondents agreed that a rotation dedicated to skin of color is important to build competency. There was a significant difference in responses between the NE and MW (P=.032) and between the NE and NW (P=.019). Furthermore, 19 (44%) respondents agreed that having a faculty member or departmental expert is important for residents to gain competence in treating conditions affecting skin of color. Again, there was a significant difference in responses between the NE and MW (P=.003) and between the SE and MW (P=.009).

When asked the number of hours of lecture per month necessary to gain competence in conditions affecting patients with skin of color, 67% agreed that 1 to 5 hours was sufficient (Table 3). There were significant differences in the responses between the NE and SE (P=.024) and the SE and MW (P=.007). Of all respondents, 53% reported 1 to 5 months of clinical training are needed to gain competence in treating conditions affecting patients with skin of color, with significant differences in responses between the NE and MW (P<.001), the NE and SW (P=.019), and the SE and MW (P=.015)(Table 4).

Comment

Responses varied by practicing region. Less ethnically diverse regions, such as the MW and NW, were more likely to agree that dedicated clinics and rotations are important to gain competence compared to more ethnically diverse regions such as the NE, SE, and SW. Overall, more residents reported that dedicated lectures and textbook chapters were important to gain competency compared to dedicated clinics or rotations.

Although interactive lectures and textbook readings are important for obtaining a foundational understanding of dermatologic disease, they cannot substitute for clinical interactions and hands-on experience treating patients with skin of color.⁹ Not only do clinical interactions encourage independent reading and the study of encountered diagnoses, but intercommunication with patients may have a more profound and lasting impact on residents’ education.

Different regions of the United States have varying distributions of patients with skin of color, and dermatology residency program training reflects these disparities.⁶ In areas of less diversity, dermatology residents examine, diagnose, and treat substantially fewer patients with skin of color. The desire for more diverse training supports the prior findings of Nijhawan et al⁶ and is reflected in the responses we received in our study, whereby residents from the less ethnically diversified regions of the MW and NW were more likely to agree that clinics and rotations were necessary for training in preparation to sufficiently address the needs of patients with skin of color.

One way to compensate for the lack of ethnic diversity encountered in areas such as the MW and NW would be to develop educational programs featuring experts on skin of color.⁶ These specialists would not only train dermatology residents in areas of the country currently lacking ethnic diversity but also expand the expertise for treating patients with skin of color. Additionally, dedicated multiethnic skin clinics and externships devoted solely to treating patients with skin of color could be encouraged for residency training.⁶ Finally, community outreach through volunteer clinics may provide residents exposure to patients with skin of color seeking dermatologic care.¹⁰

This study was limited by the small number of respondents, but we were able to extract important trends and data from the collected responses. It is possible that respondents felt strongly about topics involving patients with skin of color, and the results were skewed to reflect individual bias. Additional limitations included not asking respondents for program names and population density (eg, urban, suburban, rural). Future studies should be directed toward analyzing how the diversity of the local population influences training in patients with skin of color, comparing program directors’ perceptions with residents’ perceptions on training in skin of color, and assessing patient perception of residents’ training in skin of color.

Conclusion

In the last decade it has become increasingly apparent that the US population is diversifying and that patients with skin of color will comprise a substantial proportion of the future population,^8,11 which emphasizes the need for dermatology residency programs to ensure that residents receive adequate training and exposure to patients with skin of color as well as the distinct skin diseases seen more commonly in these populations.¹²

In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.¹ Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.² In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.

When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.¹ In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.³ However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.⁴

Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.⁵

Properties of Hair Care Products

Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.

Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.⁶ Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.^4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.⁴

Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.¹⁰ Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,¹⁰ is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).

An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.¹¹ Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.

Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.^6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins⁷ that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.⁶ For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.⁶ Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).

The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.¹² However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.¹²

Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.^6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.^6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.

Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.⁷ Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).

Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.¹³ Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.⁶ Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.¹⁴

Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.¹⁵ Pazyar et al¹⁶ reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.¹⁷ Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.

Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.¹⁸ Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.¹⁷ Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.

Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.¹⁹ Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.²⁰

Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.²¹ Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.^22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.

Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.²⁴ In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.²⁵ Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.^5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.²⁶ Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).

Our Recommendations

Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.

Conclusion

Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.

In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.¹ Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.² In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.

When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.¹ In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.³ However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.⁴

Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.⁵

Properties of Hair Care Products

Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.

Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.⁶ Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.^4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.⁴

Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.¹⁰ Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,¹⁰ is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).

An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.¹¹ Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.

Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.^6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins⁷ that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.⁶ For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.⁶ Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).

The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.¹² However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.¹²

Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.^6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.^6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.

Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.⁷ Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).

Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.¹³ Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.⁶ Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.¹⁴

Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.¹⁵ Pazyar et al¹⁶ reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.¹⁷ Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.

Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.¹⁸ Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.¹⁷ Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.

Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.¹⁹ Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.²⁰

Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.²¹ Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.^22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.

Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.²⁴ In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.²⁵ Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.^5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.²⁶ Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).

Our Recommendations

Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.

Conclusion

Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.

In the African American and African communities, information regarding the care and treatment of hair and skin often is obtained from relatives as well as Internet videos and bloggers.¹ Moreover, fewer than half of African American women surveyed believe that their physician understands African American hair.² In addition to proficiency in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp disorders in this population, dermatologists must be aware of common hair and scalp beliefs, misconceptions, care, and product use to ensure culturally competent interactions and treatment.

When a patient of African descent refers to their hair as “natural,” he/she is referring to its texture compared with hair that is chemically treated with straighteners (ie, “relaxed” or “permed” hair). Natural hair refers to hair that has not been altered with chemical treatments that permanently break and re-form disulfide bonds of the hair.¹ In 2003, it was estimated that 80% of African American women treated their hair with a chemical relaxer.³ However, this preference has changed over the last decade, with a larger percentage of African American women choosing to wear a natural hairstyle.⁴

Regardless of preferred hairstyle, a multitude of products can be used to obtain and maintain the particular style. According to US Food and Drug Administration regulations, a product’s ingredients must appear on an information panel in descending order of predominance. Additionally, products must be accurately labeled without misleading information. However, one study found that hair care products commonly used by African American women contain mixtures of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, and 84% of detected chemicals are not listed on the label.⁵

Properties of Hair Care Products

Women of African descent use hair grooming products for cleansing and moisturizing the hair and scalp, detangling, and styling. Products to achieve these goals comprise shampoos, leave-in and rinse-out conditioners, creams, pomades, oils, and gels. In August 2018 we performed a Google search of the most popular hair care products used for natural hair and chemically relaxed African American hair. Key terms used in our search included popular natural hair products, best natural hair products, top natural hair products, products for permed hair, shampoos for permed hair, conditioner for permed hair, popular detanglers for African American hair, popular products for natural hair, detanglers used for permed hair, gels for relaxed hair, moisturizers for relaxed hair, gels for natural hair, and popular moisturizers for African American hair. We reviewed all websites generated by the search and compared the most popular brands, compiled a list of products, and reviewed them for availability in 2 beauty supply stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; 1 Walmart in Hershey, Pennsylvania; and 1 Walmart in Willow Grove, Pennsylvania. Of the 80 products identified, we selected 57 products to be reviewed for ingredients based on which ones were most commonly seen in search results. Table 1 highlights several randomly chosen popular hair care products used by African American women to familiarize dermatologists with specific products and manufacturers.

Tightly coiled hair, common among women of African descent, is considered fragile because of decreased water content and tensile strength.⁶ Fragility is exacerbated by manipulation during styling, excessive heat, and harsh shampoos that strip the hair of moisture, as well as chemical treatments that lead to protein deficiency.^4,6,7 Because tightly coiled hair is naturally dry and fragile, women of African descent have a particular preference for products that reduce hair dryness and breakage, which has led to the popularity of sulfate-free shampoos that minimize loss of moisture in hair; moisturizers, oils, and conditioners also are used to enhance moisture retention in hair. Conditioners also provide protein substances that can help strengthen hair.⁴

Consumers’ concerns about the inclusion of potentially harmful ingredients have resulted in reformulation of many products. Our review of products demonstrated that natural hair consumers used fewer products containing silicones, parabens, and sulfates, compared to consumers with chemically relaxed hair. Another tool used by manufacturers to address these concerns is the inclusion of an additional label to distinguish the product as sulfate free, silicone free, paraben free, petroleum free, or a combination of these terms. Although many patients believe that there are “good” and “bad” products, they should be made aware that there are pros and cons of ingredients frequently found in hair-grooming products. Popular ingredients in hair care products include sulfates, cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone, oils, and parabens.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is sodium laureth sulfate, commonly used as a primary detergent in shampoos designed for normal to dry hair.¹⁰ Sodium laureth sulfate, which provides excellent cleansing and leaves the hair better moisturized and manageable compared to lauryl sulfates,¹⁰ is a common ingredient in the products in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, and Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Moisturizing Shampoo).

An ingredient that might be confused for a sulfate is behentrimonium methosulfate, a cationic quaternary ammonium salt that is not used to cleanse the hair, unlike sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, but serves as an antistatic conditioning agent to keep hair moisturized and frizz free.¹¹ Behentrimonium methosulfate is found in conditioners and detanglers in Table 1 (The Mane Choice Green Tea & Carrot Conditioning Mask, Kinky-Curly Knot Today, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler, Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-In Conditioner). Patients should be informed that behentrimonium methosulfate is not water soluble, which suggests that it can lead to buildup of residue.

Cationic Surfactants and Cationic Polymers
Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers are found in many hair products and improve manageability by softening and detangling hair.^6,10 Hair consists of negatively charged keratin proteins⁷ that electrostatically attract the positively charged polar group of cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. These surfactants and polymers then adhere to and normalize hair surface charges, resulting in improved texture and reduced friction between strands.⁶ For African American patients with natural hair, cationic surfactants and polymers help to maintain curl patterns and assist in detangling.⁶ Polyquaternium is a cationic polymer that is found in several products in Table 1 (Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo, ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-in Conditioner, and John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner).

The surfactants triethanolamine and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are ingredients in some styling gels and have been reported as potential carcinogens.¹² However, there are inadequate human or animal data to support the carcinogenicity of either ingredient at this time. Of note, tetrasodium EDTA has been reported to increase the penetration of other chemicals through the skin, which might lead to toxicity.¹²

Silicone
Silicone agents can be found in a variety of hair care products, including shampoos, detanglers, hair conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizers. Of the 22 products listed in Table 1, silicones are found in 14 products. Common silicones include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethiconol. Silicones form hydrophobic films that create smoothness and shine.^6,8 Silicone-containing products help reduce frizz and provide protection against breakage and heat damage in chemically relaxed hair.^6,7 For patients with natural hair, silicones aid in hair detangling.

Frequent use of silicone products can result in residue buildup due to the insolubility of silicone in water. Preventatively, some products include water-soluble silicones with the same benefits, such as silicones with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-, laurylmethicone copolyol, and dimethicone copolyol.⁷ Dimethicone copolyol was found in 1 of our reviewed products (OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Shampoo); 10 products in Table 1 contain ingredients with the prefixes PPG- or PEG-. Several products in our review contain both water-soluble and water-insoluble silicones (eg, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Strength & Shine Leave-In Conditioner).

Oils
Oils in hair care products prevent hair breakage by coating the hair shaft and sealing in moisture. There are various types of oils in hair care products. Essential oils are volatile liquid-aroma substances derived most commonly from plants through dry or steam distillation or by other mechanical processes.¹³ Essential oils are used to seal and moisturize the hair and often are used to produce fragrance in hair products.⁶ Examples of essential oils that are ingredients in cosmetics include tea tree oil (TTO), peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil. Vegetable oils can be used to dilute essential oils because essential oils can irritate skin.¹⁴

Tea tree oil is an essential oil obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the coastal tree Melaleuca alternifolia. The molecule terpinen-4-ol is a major component of TTO thought to exhibit antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.¹⁵ Pazyar et al¹⁶ reviewed several studies that propose the use of TTO to treat acne vulgaris, seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic gingivitis. Although this herbal oil seemingly has many possible dermatologic applications, dermatologists should be aware that reports have linked TTO to allergic contact dermatitis due to 1,8-cineole, another constituent of TTO.¹⁷ Tea tree oil is an ingredient in several of the hair care products that we reviewed. With growing patient interest in the benefits of TTO, further research is necessary to establish guidelines on its use for seborrheic dermatitis.

Castor oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the castor oil plant. Its primary fatty acid group—ricinoleic acid—along with certain salts and esters function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and surfactants in cosmetic products.¹⁸ Jamaican black castor oil is a popular moisturizing oil in the African American natural hair community. It differs in color from standard castor oil because of the manner in which the oil is processed. Anecdotally, it is sometimes advertised as a hair growth serum; some patients admit to applying Jamaican black castor oil on the scalp as self-treatment of alopecia. The basis for such claims might stem from research showing that ricinoleic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in some mice and guinea pig models with repeated topical application.¹⁷ Scientific evidence does not, however, support claims that castor oil or Jamaican black castor oil can treat alopecia.

Mineral oils have a lubricant base and are refined from petroleum crude oils. The composition of crude oil varies; to remove impurities, it must undergo treatment with different degrees of refinement. When products are highly treated, the result is a substantially decreased level of impurities.¹⁹ Although they are beneficial in coating the hair shaft and preventing hair damage, consumers tend to avoid products containing mineral oil because of its carcinogenic potential if untreated or mildly treated.²⁰

Although cosmetics with mineral oils are highly treated, a study showed that mineral oil is the largest contaminant in the human body, with cosmetics being a possible source.²¹ Studies also have revealed that mineral oils do not prevent hair breakage compared to other oils, such as essential oils and coconut oil.^22,23 Many consumers therefore choose to avoid mineral oil because alternative oils exist that are beneficial in preventing hair damage but do not present carcinogenic risk. An example of a mineral oil–free product in Table 1 is Mizani Coconut Souffle Light Moisturizing Hairdress. Only 8 of the 57 products we reviewed did not contain oil, including the following 5 included in Table 1: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish, Kinky-Curly Knot Today (although this product did have behentrimonium made from rapeseed oil), Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Moisturizing Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel.

Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to prevent growth of pathogens in and prevent decomposition of cosmetic products. Parabens have attracted a lot of criticism because of their possible link to breast cancer.²⁴ In vitro and in vivo studies of parabens have demonstrated weak estrogenic activity that increased proportionally with increased length and branching of alkyl side chains. In vivo animal studies demonstrated weak estrogenic activity—100,000-fold less potent than 17β-estradiol.²⁵ Ongoing research examines the relationship between the estrogenic properties of parabens, endocrine disruption, and cancer in human breast epithelial cells.^5,24 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the US Food and Drug Administration uphold that parabens are safe to use in cosmetics.²⁶ Several products that include parabens are listed in Table 1 (ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Conditioner, John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner, and ampro Pro Styl Protein Styling Gel).

Our Recommendations

Table 2 (although not exhaustive) includes the authors’ recommendations of hair care products for individuals of African descent. Dermatologists should discuss the pros and cons of the use of products with ingredients that have controversial health effects, namely parabens, triethanolamine, tetrasodium EDTA, and mineral oils. Our recommendations do not include products that contain the prior ingredients. For many women of African descent, their hair type and therefore product use changes with the season, health of their hair, and normal changes to hair throughout their lifetime. There is no magic product for all: Each patient has specific individual styling preferences and a distinctive hair type. Decisions about which products to use can be guided with the assistance of a dermatologist but will ultimately be left up to the patient.

Conclusion

Given the array of hair and scalp care products, it is helpful for dermatologists to become familiar with several of the most popular ingredients and commonly used products. It might be helpful to ask patients which products they use and which ones have been effective for their unique hair concerns. Thus, you become armed with a catalogue of product recommendations for your patients.

Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.¹ Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.² The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.¹ As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.³

How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.^4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.⁵ For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.¹ Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.⁶ Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.⁷

We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.

Methods

The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.

Results

A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.

Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.

Comment

The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.⁸ As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.

The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.

We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.^1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.¹⁵ Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.¹⁵ Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”²⁰

Conclusion

Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.²³ Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.

Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.

Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.¹ Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.² The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.¹ As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.³

How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.^4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.⁵ For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.¹ Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.⁶ Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.⁷

We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.

Methods

The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.

Results

A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.

Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.

Comment

The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.⁸ As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.

The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.

We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.^1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.¹⁵ Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.¹⁵ Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”²⁰

Conclusion

Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.²³ Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.

Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.

Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) is the most commonly used classification system in dermatologic practice. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, in 1975 to assess the propensity of the skin to burn during phototherapy.¹ Fitzpatrick skin type also can be used to assess the clinical benefits and efficacy of cosmetic procedures, including laser hair removal, chemical peel and dermabrasion, tattoo removal, spray tanning, and laser resurfacing for acne scarring.² The original FST classifications included skin types I through IV; skin types V and VI were later added to include individuals of Asian, Indian, and African origin.¹ As a result, FST often is used by providers as a means of describing constitutive skin color and ethnicity.³

How did FST transition from describing the propensity of the skin to burn from UV light exposure to categorizing skin color, thereby becoming a proxy for race? It most likely occurred because there has not been another widely adopted classification system for describing skin color that can be applied to all skin types. Even when the FST classification scale is used as intended, there are inconsistencies with its accuracy; for example, self-reported FSTs have correlated poorly with sunburn risk as well as physician-reported FSTs.^4,5 Although physician-reported FSTs have been demonstrated to correlate with race, race does not consistently correlate with objective measures of pigmentation or self-reported FSTs.⁵ For example, Japanese women often self-identify as FST type II, but Asian skin generally is considered to be nonwhite.¹ Fitzpatrick himself acknowledged that race and ethnicity are cultural and political terms with no scientific basis.⁶ Fitzpatrick skin type also has been demonstrated to correlate poorly with constitutive skin color and minimal erythema dose values.⁷

We conducted an anonymous survey of dermatologists and dermatology trainees to evaluate how providers use FST in their clinical practice as well as how it is used to describe race and ethnicity.

Methods

The survey was distributed electronically to dermatologists and dermatology trainees from March 13 to March 28, 2019, using the Association of Professors of Dermatology listserv, as well as in person at the annual Skin of Color Society meeting in Washington, DC, on February 28, 2019. The 8-item survey included questions about physician demographics (ie, primary practice setting, board certification, and geographic location); whether the respondent identified as an individual with skin of color; and how the respondent utilized FST in clinical notes (ie, describing race/ethnicity, skin cancer risk, and constitutive [baseline] skin color; determining initial phototherapy dosage and suitability for laser treatments, and likelihood of skin burning). A t test was used to determine whether dermatologists who identified as having skin of color utilized FST differently.

Results

A total of 141 surveys were returned, and 140 respondents were included in the final analysis. Given the methods used to distribute the survey, a response rate could not be calculated. The respondents included more board-certified dermatologists (70%) than dermatology trainees (30%). Ninety-three percent of respondents indicated an academic institution as their primary practice location. Notably, 26% of respondents self-identified as having skin of color.

Forty-one percent of all respondents agreed that FST should be included in their clinical documentation. In response to the question “In what scenarios would you refer to FST in a clinical note?” 31% said they used FST to describe patients’ race or ethnicity, 47% used it to describe patients’ constitutive skin color, and 22% utilized it in both scenarios. Respondents who did not identify as having skin of color were more likely to use FST to describe constitutive skin color, though this finding was not statistically significant (P=.063). Anecdotally, providers also included FST in clinical notes on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and treatment with cryotherapy.

Comment

The US Census Bureau has estimated that half of the US population will be of non-European descent by 2050.⁸ As racial and ethnic distinctions continue to be blurred, attempts to include all nonwhite skin types under the umbrella term skin of color becomes increasingly problematic. The true number of skin colors is unknown but likely is infinite, as Brazilian artist Angélica Dass has demonstrated with her photographic project “Humanae” (Figure). Given this shift in demographics and the limitations of the FST, alternative methods of describing skin color must be developed.

The results of our survey suggest that approximately one-third to half of academic dermatologists/dermatology trainees use FST to describe race/ethnicity and/or constitutive skin color. This misuse of FST may occur more frequently among physicians who do not identify as having skin of color. Additionally, misuse of FST in academic settings may be problematic and confusing for medical students who may learn to use this common dermatologic tool outside of its original intent.

We acknowledge that the conundrum of how to classify individuals with nonwhite skin or skin of color is not simply answered. Several alternative skin classification models have been proposed to improve the sensitivity and specificity of identifying patients with skin of color (Table). Refining FST classification is one approach. Employing terms such as skin irritation, tenderness, itching, or skin becoming darker from sun exposure rather than painful burn or tanning may result in better identification.^1,4 A study conducted in India modified the FST questionnaire to acknowledge cultural behaviors.¹⁵ Because lighter skin is culturally valued in this population, patient experience with purposeful sun exposure was limited; thus, the questionnaire was modified to remove questions on the use of tanning booths and/or creams as well as sun exposure and instead included more objective questions regarding dark brown eye color, black and dark brown hair color, and dark brown skin color.¹⁵ Other studies have suggested that patient-reported photosensitivity assessed via a questionnaire is a valid measure for assessing FST but is associated with an overestimation of skin color, known as “the dark shift.”²⁰

Conclusion

Other investigators have criticized the various limitations of FST, including physician vs patient assessment, interview vs questionnaire, and phrasing of questions on skin type.²³ Our findings suggest that medical providers should be cognizant of conflating race and ethnicity with FST. Two authors of this report (O.R.W. and J.E.D.) are medical students with skin of color and frequently have observed the addition of FST to the medical records of patients who were not receiving phototherapy as a proxy for race. We believe that more culturally appropriate and clinically relevant methods for describing skin of color need to be developed and, in the interim, the original intent of FST should be emphasized and incorporated in medical school and resident education.

Acknowledgment
The authors thank Adewole Adamson, MD (Austin, Texas), for discussion and feedback.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. ^1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. ⁴ Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. ^5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). ¹ A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. ^6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.

Epidemiology

In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.⁹ A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.¹⁰ A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.¹¹ A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.¹² The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.⁸

Clinical Features

Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.¹³ This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.⁷

In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.¹² In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.¹⁴

Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.³ Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.

Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features

Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.

Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.¹⁵

Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.²¹ Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.²² In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.

Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis¹⁸; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al²³ described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,²⁴ making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.

Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.^25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.¹ In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.

Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.²⁷ Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.²⁸ Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin²⁹; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.³⁰ Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.^31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).^4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.³⁵ Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.³⁶ Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.

Final Thoughts

Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.

References

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. ^1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. ⁴ Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. ^5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). ¹ A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. ^6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.

Epidemiology

In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.⁹ A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.¹⁰ A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.¹¹ A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.¹² The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.⁸

Clinical Features

Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.¹³ This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.⁷

In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.¹² In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.¹⁴

Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.³ Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.

Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features

Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.

Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.¹⁵

Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.²¹ Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.²² In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.

Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis¹⁸; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al²³ described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,²⁴ making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.

Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.^25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.¹ In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.

Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.²⁷ Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.²⁸ Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin²⁹; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.³⁰ Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.^31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).^4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.³⁵ Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.³⁶ Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.

Final Thoughts

Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.

References

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory cutaneous disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. Delayed and misdiagnosed rosacea in the SOC population has led to increased morbidity in this patient population. ^1-3 It is characterized by facial flushing and warmth, erythema, telangiectasia, papules, and pustules. The 4 major subtypes include erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea. ⁴ Granulomatous rosacea is considered to be a unique variant of rosacea. Until recently, rosacea was thought to predominately affect lighter-skinned individuals of Celtic and northern European origin. ^5,6 A paucity of studies and case reports in the literature have contributed to the commonly held belief that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with skin of color (SOC). ¹ A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE revealed 32 results using the terms skin of color and rosacea vs 3786 using the term rosacea alone. It is possible that the nuance involved in appreciating erythema or other clinical manifestations of rosacea in SOC patients has led to underdiagnosis. Alternatively, these patients may be unaware that their symptoms represent a disease process and do not seek treatment. Many patients with darker skin will have endured rosacea for months or even years because the disease has been unrecognized or misdiagnosed. ^6-8 Another factor possibly accounting for the perception that rosacea occurs infrequently in patients with SOC is misdiagnosis of rosacea as other diseases that are known to occur more commonly in the SOC population. Dermatologists should be aware that rosacea can affect SOC patients and that there are several rosacea mimickers to be considered and excluded when making the rosacea diagnosis in this patient population. To promote accurate and timely diagnosis of rosacea, we review several possible rosacea mimickers in SOC patients and highlight the distinguishing features.

Epidemiology

In 2018, a meta-analysis of published studies on rosacea estimated the global prevalence in all adults to be 5.46%.⁹ A multicenter study across 6 cities in Colombia identified 291 outpatients with rosacea; of them, 12.4% had either Fitzpatrick skin types IV or V.¹⁰ A study of 2743 Angolan adults with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI reported that only 0.4% of patients had a diagnosis of rosacea.¹¹ A Saudi study of 50 dark-skinned female patients with rosacea revealed 40% (20/50), 18% (9/50), and 42% (21/50) were Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and VI, respectively.¹² The prevalence of rosacea in SOC patients in the United States is less defined. Data from the US National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey (1993-2010) of 31.5 million rosacea visits showed that 2% of rosacea patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino.⁸

Clinical Features

Each of the 4 major rosacea subtypes can present in the SOC population. The granulomatous variant has been predominantly reported in black patients.¹³ This predilection has been attributed to either an increased susceptibility in black patients to develop this variant or a delay in diagnosis of earlier phases of inflammatory rosacea.⁷

In a Saudi study (N=50), severe erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was diagnosed in 42% (21/50) of patients, with the majority having Fitzpatrick skin type IV. The severe papulopustular subtype was seen in 14% (7/50) of patients, with 20% (10/50) and 14% (7/50) having Fitzpatrick skin types IV and VI, respectively.¹² In a Tunisian study (N=244), erythematotelangiectatic rosacea was seen in 12% of patients, papulopustular rosacea in 69%, phymatous rosacea in 4%, and ocular rosacea in 16%. Less frequently, the granulomatous variant was seen in 3% of patients, and steroid rosacea was noted in 12% patients.¹⁴

Recognizing the signs of rosacea may be a challenge, particularly erythema and telangiectasia. Tips for making an accurate diagnosis include use of adequate lighting, blanching of the skin (Figure 1), photography of the affected area against a dark blue background, and dermatoscopic examination.³ Furthermore, a thorough medical history, especially when evaluating the presence of facial erythema and identifying triggers, may help reach the correct diagnosis. Careful examination of the distribution of papules and pustules as well as the morphology and color of the papules in SOC patients also may provide diagnostic clues.

Differential Diagnosis and Distinguishing Features

Several disorders are included in the differential diagnosis of rosacea and may confound a correct rosacea diagnosis, including systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, acne vulgaris, sarcoidosis, and steroid dermatitis. Many of these disorders also occur more commonly in patients with SOC; therefore, it is important to clearly distinguish these entities from rosacea in this population.

Systemic Lupus Erythematosus
Systemic lupus erythematosus is an autoimmune disease that commonly presents with erythema as well as erythematous inflammatory facial lesions similar to rosacea. The classic clinical appearance of SLE is the butterfly or malar rash, an erythematous macular eruption on the malar region of the face that also may involve the nose. This rash can appear similar to rosacea; however, the malar rash classically spares the nasolabial folds, while erythema of rosacea often involves this anatomic boundary. Although the facial erythema in both SLE and early stages of rosacea may be patchy and similar in presentation, the presence of papules and pustules rarely occurs in SLE and may help to differentiate SLE from certain variants of rosacea.¹⁵

Seborrheic Dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis is a frequent cause of facial erythema linked to the Malassezia yeast species in susceptible individuals. Seborrheic dermatitis has a notable prevalence in women of African descent and often is considered normal by these patients.²¹ Rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis are relatively common dermatoses and therefore can present concurrently. In both diseases, facial erythema may be difficult to discern upon cursory inspection. Seborrheic dermatitis may be distinguished from rosacea by the clinical appearance of erythematous patches and plaques involving the scalp, anterior and posterior hairlines, preauricular and postauricular areas, and medial eyebrows. Both seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea may involve the nasolabial folds, but the presence of scale in seborrheic dermatitis is a distinguishing feature. Scale may vary in appearance from thick, greasy, and yellowish to fine, thin, and whitish.²² In contrast to rosacea, the erythematous lesions of seborrheic dermatitis often are annular in configuration. Furthermore, postinflammatory hypopigmentation and, to a lesser extent, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are key clinical components of seborrheic dermatitis in SOC patients but are not as commonly observed in rosacea.

Dermatomyositis
Dermatomyositis is a systemic autoimmune disease characterized by progressive and symmetric proximal musculoskeletal weakness and cutaneous findings. Facial erythema in the malar and nasolabial folds can be seen in patients with dermatomyositis¹⁸; however, the facial erythema seen in dermatomyositis, known as heliotrope rash, has a violaceous dusky quality and also involves the periorbital region. The violaceous hue and periorbital involvement are distinguishing features from rosacea. Okiyama et al²³ described facial macular violaceous erythema with scale and edema in Japanese patients with dermatomyositis on the nasolabial folds, eyebrows, chin, cheeks, and ears; they also described mild atrophy with telangiectasia. Other clinical signs to help distinguish rosacea from dermatomyositis are the presence of edema of the face and extremities, Gottron papules, and poikiloderma. Dermatomyositis is a disease that affects all races; however, it is 4 times more common in black vs white patients,²⁴ making it even more important to be able to distinguish between these conditions.

Acne Vulgaris
Acne vulgaris, the most commonly diagnosed dermatosis in patients with SOC, is characterized by papules, pustules, cysts, nodules, open and closed comedones, and hyperpigmented macules on the face, chest, and back.^25,26 The absence of comedonal lesions and the presence of hyperpigmented macules distinguishes acne vulgaris from rosacea in this population.¹ In addition, the absence of telangiectasia and flushing are important distinguishing factors when making the diagnosis of acne vulgaris.

Sarcoidosis
Sarcoidosis is a multisystem inflammatory disease characterized histologically by the presence of noncaseating granulomas in sites such as the lungs, lymph nodes, eyes, nervous system, liver, spleen, heart, and skin.²⁷ Cutaneous sarcoidosis is known as a great mimicker of many other dermatoses, as it may present with multiple morphologic features. Cutaneous sarcoidosis most typically presents as papules, but nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars also have been identified.²⁸ Sarcoid papules typically are 1 to 5 mm in size on the face, neck, and periorbital skin²⁹; they are initially orange or yellow-brown in color, turn brownish red or violaceous, then involute to form faint macules.³⁰ Papular lesions may either resolve or evolve into plaques, particularly on the extremities, face, scalp, back, and buttocks. Additionally, there are a few case reports of patients with cutaneous sarcoidosis presenting with large bulbous nasal masses initially thought to be rhinophyma.^31-33 Finally, it may be difficult to distinguish sarcoidosis from granulomatous rosacea, which is characterized by firm yellow, brown, violaceous, red, or flesh-colored monomorphic papules or nodules affecting the perioral, periocular, medial, and/or lateral areas of the face (Figure 2).^4,34 Patients also can have unilateral disease.³⁵ Patients with granulomatous rosacea lack flushing and erythema as seen in more characteristic presentations of rosacea. They may report pain, pruritus, or burning, or they may be asymptomatic.³⁶ Features that distinguish granulomatous rosacea from sarcoidosis include the absence of nodules, plaques, lupus pernio, subcutaneous infiltrates, and infiltration of scars. Clinical, histological, and radiographic evaluation are necessary to make the diagnosis of sarcoidosis over rosacea.

Final Thoughts

Rosacea has features common to many other facial dermatoses, making the diagnosis challenging, particularly in patients with SOC. This difficulty in diagnosis may contribute to an underestimation of the prevalence of this disease in SOC patients. An understanding of rosacea, its nuances in clinical appearance, and its mimickers in SOC patients is important in making an accurate diagnosis.

References

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Vitiligo is a disfiguring skin condition that is thought to result from autoimmune destruction of melanocytes in the skin, leading to patchy depigmentation. The prevalence of vitiligo is estimated at 1% worldwide.¹ Once seen as merely a cosmetic disorder, it is increasingly recognized for its devastating psychological effects. As skin quality, texture, and color are a few of the first things people notice about others, skin plays a major role in our daily interactions with the world. Vitiligo often affects the face and other visible areas of the body; thus, it is associated with impaired quality of life, and affected individuals often experience psychosocial impairment including anxiety, depression, stigmatization, and self-harm ideation.² Indeed, vitiligo is a condition with not only a visible skin component but a deeper psychological component that also is important to recognize and address. However, due in large part to recent exposure to vitiligo through mainstream media, general understanding about and attitudes toward this condition are changing. As a result, vitiligo has seen a surge in outreach by those affected by the disease.

Perhaps the most well-known current face of vitiligo is Chantelle Brown-Young, a black fashion model, activist, and vitiligo spokesperson known professionally as Winnie Harlow. Diagnosed with vitiligo in childhood, she revealed she was teased and bullied and at one point contemplated suicide. “The continuous harassment and the despair that [vitiligo] brought on my life was so unbearably dehumanizing that I wanted to kill myself,” she disclosed.³ After competing on America’s Next Top Model in 2014, Winnie Harlow became a household name for redefining global standards of beauty and, in her own words, accepting the differences that make us unique and authentic.⁴ She went on to speak at the Dove Self-Esteem Project panel at the 2015 Women in the World London Summit and was presented with the Role Model award at the Portuguese GQ Men of the Year event that same year.⁵

More recently, Amy Deanna, a model with vitiligo, was featured in videos for CoverGirl’s 2018 “I Am What I Make Up” campaign in which she is shown enhancing her various skin tones rather than hiding them by applying both light and dark shades of makeup on her face. In a press release she stated, “Vitiligo awareness is something that is very important to me. Being given a platform to [raise awareness] means so much.”⁶

Additionally, Brock Elbank, a London-based photographer, recently launched a photograph series of men and women with vitiligo on the digital platform Instagram.⁷ In a recent interview he stated, “I see beauty in what many see as different. Unique individuals who stand out from the crowd are what inspire me to do what I do.”⁷

Lee Thomas, a television broadcaster and author of the book Turning White: A Memoir of Change is yet another example of a vitiligo patient who recently stopped hiding his condition. He admitted he has had people refuse to shake his hand due to his condition but has used the experience to educate others. He stated, “Because I’m in this position, I think this is where my next thing is supposed to be. It’s supposed to be about sharing and helping, and hopefully leaving the planet a little better for everybody else who comes along with vitiligo.”⁸ Thomas is dedicated to inspiring others with the condition and started the Clarity Lee Thomas Foundation to provide emotional and mental support to those with vitiligo.

Critics may say this vitiligo movement is merely another example of exploitation of what is unique or different by mainstream media and the fashion industry, similar to prior movements for plus-sized models, natural hairstyles in black women, and transgender identification. Even if partially true, the ultimate effect has been an increase in attention and representation of individuals with vitiligo in mainstream media. At the time this article was being published (September 2018), an Instagram search for #vitiligo yielded approximately 226,000 posts. For comparison with other much more common dermatologic conditions, #eczema returned approximately 958,000 results, #moles returned approximately 65,000 results, and #skincancer returned approximately 104,000 results. Additionally, the Vitiligo Research Foundation currently has more than 5000 followers on Instagram, which is as many as the Melanoma Research Foundation and almost twice as many as the Skin Cancer Foundation, supporting the idea that mainstream representation of individuals with vitiligo is contributing to raising awareness and backing of organizations aimed at making advancements in this area of dermatology.

As more individuals gain an understanding and curiosity about this disease, perhaps more research and investigation will be done to improve treatment options and outcomes for patients with vitiligo. With this movement, perhaps vitiligo patients will feel more comfortable and confident in their skin.

Vitiligo is a disfiguring skin condition that is thought to result from autoimmune destruction of melanocytes in the skin, leading to patchy depigmentation. The prevalence of vitiligo is estimated at 1% worldwide.¹ Once seen as merely a cosmetic disorder, it is increasingly recognized for its devastating psychological effects. As skin quality, texture, and color are a few of the first things people notice about others, skin plays a major role in our daily interactions with the world. Vitiligo often affects the face and other visible areas of the body; thus, it is associated with impaired quality of life, and affected individuals often experience psychosocial impairment including anxiety, depression, stigmatization, and self-harm ideation.² Indeed, vitiligo is a condition with not only a visible skin component but a deeper psychological component that also is important to recognize and address. However, due in large part to recent exposure to vitiligo through mainstream media, general understanding about and attitudes toward this condition are changing. As a result, vitiligo has seen a surge in outreach by those affected by the disease.

Perhaps the most well-known current face of vitiligo is Chantelle Brown-Young, a black fashion model, activist, and vitiligo spokesperson known professionally as Winnie Harlow. Diagnosed with vitiligo in childhood, she revealed she was teased and bullied and at one point contemplated suicide. “The continuous harassment and the despair that [vitiligo] brought on my life was so unbearably dehumanizing that I wanted to kill myself,” she disclosed.³ After competing on America’s Next Top Model in 2014, Winnie Harlow became a household name for redefining global standards of beauty and, in her own words, accepting the differences that make us unique and authentic.⁴ She went on to speak at the Dove Self-Esteem Project panel at the 2015 Women in the World London Summit and was presented with the Role Model award at the Portuguese GQ Men of the Year event that same year.⁵

More recently, Amy Deanna, a model with vitiligo, was featured in videos for CoverGirl’s 2018 “I Am What I Make Up” campaign in which she is shown enhancing her various skin tones rather than hiding them by applying both light and dark shades of makeup on her face. In a press release she stated, “Vitiligo awareness is something that is very important to me. Being given a platform to [raise awareness] means so much.”⁶

Additionally, Brock Elbank, a London-based photographer, recently launched a photograph series of men and women with vitiligo on the digital platform Instagram.⁷ In a recent interview he stated, “I see beauty in what many see as different. Unique individuals who stand out from the crowd are what inspire me to do what I do.”⁷

Lee Thomas, a television broadcaster and author of the book Turning White: A Memoir of Change is yet another example of a vitiligo patient who recently stopped hiding his condition. He admitted he has had people refuse to shake his hand due to his condition but has used the experience to educate others. He stated, “Because I’m in this position, I think this is where my next thing is supposed to be. It’s supposed to be about sharing and helping, and hopefully leaving the planet a little better for everybody else who comes along with vitiligo.”⁸ Thomas is dedicated to inspiring others with the condition and started the Clarity Lee Thomas Foundation to provide emotional and mental support to those with vitiligo.

Critics may say this vitiligo movement is merely another example of exploitation of what is unique or different by mainstream media and the fashion industry, similar to prior movements for plus-sized models, natural hairstyles in black women, and transgender identification. Even if partially true, the ultimate effect has been an increase in attention and representation of individuals with vitiligo in mainstream media. At the time this article was being published (September 2018), an Instagram search for #vitiligo yielded approximately 226,000 posts. For comparison with other much more common dermatologic conditions, #eczema returned approximately 958,000 results, #moles returned approximately 65,000 results, and #skincancer returned approximately 104,000 results. Additionally, the Vitiligo Research Foundation currently has more than 5000 followers on Instagram, which is as many as the Melanoma Research Foundation and almost twice as many as the Skin Cancer Foundation, supporting the idea that mainstream representation of individuals with vitiligo is contributing to raising awareness and backing of organizations aimed at making advancements in this area of dermatology.

As more individuals gain an understanding and curiosity about this disease, perhaps more research and investigation will be done to improve treatment options and outcomes for patients with vitiligo. With this movement, perhaps vitiligo patients will feel more comfortable and confident in their skin.

Vitiligo is a disfiguring skin condition that is thought to result from autoimmune destruction of melanocytes in the skin, leading to patchy depigmentation. The prevalence of vitiligo is estimated at 1% worldwide.¹ Once seen as merely a cosmetic disorder, it is increasingly recognized for its devastating psychological effects. As skin quality, texture, and color are a few of the first things people notice about others, skin plays a major role in our daily interactions with the world. Vitiligo often affects the face and other visible areas of the body; thus, it is associated with impaired quality of life, and affected individuals often experience psychosocial impairment including anxiety, depression, stigmatization, and self-harm ideation.² Indeed, vitiligo is a condition with not only a visible skin component but a deeper psychological component that also is important to recognize and address. However, due in large part to recent exposure to vitiligo through mainstream media, general understanding about and attitudes toward this condition are changing. As a result, vitiligo has seen a surge in outreach by those affected by the disease.

Perhaps the most well-known current face of vitiligo is Chantelle Brown-Young, a black fashion model, activist, and vitiligo spokesperson known professionally as Winnie Harlow. Diagnosed with vitiligo in childhood, she revealed she was teased and bullied and at one point contemplated suicide. “The continuous harassment and the despair that [vitiligo] brought on my life was so unbearably dehumanizing that I wanted to kill myself,” she disclosed.³ After competing on America’s Next Top Model in 2014, Winnie Harlow became a household name for redefining global standards of beauty and, in her own words, accepting the differences that make us unique and authentic.⁴ She went on to speak at the Dove Self-Esteem Project panel at the 2015 Women in the World London Summit and was presented with the Role Model award at the Portuguese GQ Men of the Year event that same year.⁵

More recently, Amy Deanna, a model with vitiligo, was featured in videos for CoverGirl’s 2018 “I Am What I Make Up” campaign in which she is shown enhancing her various skin tones rather than hiding them by applying both light and dark shades of makeup on her face. In a press release she stated, “Vitiligo awareness is something that is very important to me. Being given a platform to [raise awareness] means so much.”⁶

Additionally, Brock Elbank, a London-based photographer, recently launched a photograph series of men and women with vitiligo on the digital platform Instagram.⁷ In a recent interview he stated, “I see beauty in what many see as different. Unique individuals who stand out from the crowd are what inspire me to do what I do.”⁷

Lee Thomas, a television broadcaster and author of the book Turning White: A Memoir of Change is yet another example of a vitiligo patient who recently stopped hiding his condition. He admitted he has had people refuse to shake his hand due to his condition but has used the experience to educate others. He stated, “Because I’m in this position, I think this is where my next thing is supposed to be. It’s supposed to be about sharing and helping, and hopefully leaving the planet a little better for everybody else who comes along with vitiligo.”⁸ Thomas is dedicated to inspiring others with the condition and started the Clarity Lee Thomas Foundation to provide emotional and mental support to those with vitiligo.

Critics may say this vitiligo movement is merely another example of exploitation of what is unique or different by mainstream media and the fashion industry, similar to prior movements for plus-sized models, natural hairstyles in black women, and transgender identification. Even if partially true, the ultimate effect has been an increase in attention and representation of individuals with vitiligo in mainstream media. At the time this article was being published (September 2018), an Instagram search for #vitiligo yielded approximately 226,000 posts. For comparison with other much more common dermatologic conditions, #eczema returned approximately 958,000 results, #moles returned approximately 65,000 results, and #skincancer returned approximately 104,000 results. Additionally, the Vitiligo Research Foundation currently has more than 5000 followers on Instagram, which is as many as the Melanoma Research Foundation and almost twice as many as the Skin Cancer Foundation, supporting the idea that mainstream representation of individuals with vitiligo is contributing to raising awareness and backing of organizations aimed at making advancements in this area of dermatology.

As more individuals gain an understanding and curiosity about this disease, perhaps more research and investigation will be done to improve treatment options and outcomes for patients with vitiligo. With this movement, perhaps vitiligo patients will feel more comfortable and confident in their skin.

The approach to the treatment of common skin disorders and cosmetic concerns in patients with skin of color (SOC) requires the clinician to understand the biological differences, nuances, and special considerations that are unique to patients with darker skin types.^1-3 This article addresses 4 common facial concerns in SOC patients—acne, rosacea, facial hyperpigmentation, and cosmetic enhancement—and provides treatment recommendations and management pearls to assist the clinician with optimal outcomes for SOC patients.

Acne in SOC Patients

Acne vulgaris is one of the most common conditions that dermatologists treat and is estimated to affect 40 to 50 million individuals in the United States.¹ Many of these acne patients are individuals with SOC.^2-4 A study of 2835 females (aged 10–70 years) conducted in 4 different cities—Los Angeles, California; London, United Kingdom; Akita, Japan; and Rome, Italy—demonstrated acne prevalence of 37% in blacks, 32% in Hispanics, 30% in Asians, 24% in whites, and 23% in Continental Indians.⁵ Blacks, Hispanics, and Continental Indians demonstrated equal prevalence with comedonal and inflammatory acne. Asians displayed more inflammatory acne lesions than comedones. In contrast, whites demonstrated more comedones than inflammatory acne. Dyspigmentation, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and atrophic scars were more common in black and Hispanic females than other ethnicities.⁵ This study illustrated that acne-induced PIH is a common sequela in SOC patients and is the main reason they seek treatment.^6,7

The pathogenesis of acne is the same in all racial and ethnic groups: (1) follicular hyperkeratinization and the formation of a microcomedone caused by abnormal desquamation of the keratinocytes within the sebaceous follicle, (2) production of sebum by circulating androgens, (3) proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, and (4) inflammation. Subclinical inflammation is present throughout all stages of acne, including normal-appearing skin, inflammatory lesions, comedones, and scarring, and may contribute to PIH in acne patients with SOC (Figure 1).⁸ A thorough history should be obtained from acne patients, including answers to the following questions⁷:

• What skin and hair care products do you use?
• Do you use sunscreen daily?
• What cosmetic products or makeup do you use?
• Do you use any ethnic skin care products, including skin lightening creams?
• Do you have a history of keloids?

It is important to ask these questions to assess if the SOC patient has developed pomade acne,⁹ acne cosmetica,¹⁰ or a potential risk of skin irritation from the use of skin care practices. It is best to take total control of the patient’s skin care regimen and discontinue use of toners, astringents, witch hazel, exfoliants, and rubbing alcohol, which may lead to skin dryness and irritation, particularly when combined with topical acne medications.

Treatment
Treatment of acne in SOC patients is similar to generally recommended treatments, with special considerations. Consider the following key points when treating acne in SOC patients:

• Treat acne early and aggressively to prevent or minimize subsequent PIH and acne scarring.
• Balance aggressive treatment with nonirritating topical skin care.
• Most importantly, target PIH in addition to acne and choose a regimen that limits skin irritation that might exacerbate existing PIH.⁷

Develop a maintenance program to control future breakouts. Topical agents can be used as monotherapy or in fixed combinations and may include benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, dapsone, azelaic acid (AZA), and retinoids. Similar to white patients, topical retinoids remain a first-line treatment for acne in patients with SOC.^11,12

Tolerability must be managed in SOC acne patients. Therapeutic maneuvers that can be instituted should include a discussion on using gentle skin care, initiating therapy with a retinoid applied every other night starting with a low concentration and gradually titrating up, and applying a moisturizer before or after applying acne medication. Oral therapies consist of antibiotics (doxycycline, minocycline), retinoids (isotretinoin), and hormonal modulators (oral contraceptives, spironolactone). Isotretinoin, recommended for patients with nodulocystic acne, may play a possible role in treating acne-induced PIH.¹³

Two common procedural therapies for acne include comedone extraction and intralesional corticosteroid injection. A 6- to 8-week course of a topical retinoid prior to comedonal extraction may facilitate the procedure and is recommended in SOC patients to help reduce cutaneous trauma and PIH.¹¹ Inflammatory acne lesions can be treated with intralesional injection of triamcinolone acetonide 2.5 or 5.0 mg/mL, which usually reduces inflammation within 2 to 5 days.¹¹

Treatment of acne-induced PIH includes sun protection, topical and oral medications, chemical peels, lasers, and energy devices. Treatment of hypertrophic scarring and keloids involves intralesional injection of triamcinolone acetonide 20, 30, or 40 mg/mL every 4 weeks until the lesion is flat.¹¹

Superficial chemical peels can be used to treat acne and PIH in SOC patients,¹⁴ such as salicylic acid (20%–30%), glycolic acid (20%–70%), trichloroacetic acid (15%–30%), and Jessner peels.

Acne Scarring
Surgical approaches to acne scarring in patients with SOC include elliptical excision, punch excision, punch elevation, punch autografting, dermal grafting, dermal planning, subcutaneous incision (subcision), dermabrasion, microneedling, fillers, and laser skin resurfacing. The treatment of choice depends on the size, type, and depth of the scar and the clinician’s preference.

Lasers
Fractional photothermolysis has emerged as a treatment option for acne scars in SOC patients. This procedure produces microscopic columns of thermal injury in the epidermis and dermis, sparing the surrounding tissue and minimizing downtime and adverse events. Because fractional photothermolysis does not target melanin and produces limited epidermal injury, darker Fitzpatrick skin types (IV–VI) can be safely and effectively treated with this procedure.¹⁵

Rosacea in SOC Patients

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. It commonly is seen in Fitzpatrick skin types I and II; however, rosacea can occur in all skin types (Figure 2). Triggers include emotional stress, extreme environmental temperatures, hot and spicy foods, red wine or alcohol, and topical irritants or allergens found in common cosmetic products.¹⁶

Data suggest that 4% of rosacea patients in the United States are of African, Latino, or Asian descent.¹¹ National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey data revealed that of 31.5 million rosacea visits, 2% of patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino. In a 5-year longitudinal study of 2587 rosacea patients enrolled in Medicaid in North Carolina who were prescribed at least 1 topical treatment for rosacea, 16.27% were black and 10% were of a race other than white.¹⁷

Although the pathogenesis of rosacea is unclear, hypotheses include immune system abnormalities, neurogenic dysregulation, presence of microorganisms (eg, Demodex folliculorum), UV damage, and skin barrier dysfunction.¹⁸

The 4 major subtypes of rosacea are erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea.¹⁶ Interestingly, rosacea in SOC patients may present with hypopigmentation surrounding the borders of the facial erythema. For phymatous rosacea, isotretinoin may reduce incipient rhinophyma but must be carefully monitored and pregnancy must be excluded. Surgical or laser therapy may be indicated to recontour the nose if severe.

There are several skin conditions that can present with facial erythema in patients with SOC, including seborrheic dermatitis, systemic lupus erythematosus, and contact dermatitis. It is important to note that the detection of facial erythema in darker skin types may be difficult; therefore, laboratory evaluation (antinuclear antibodies), patch testing, and skin biopsy should be considered if the clinical diagnosis is unclear.

Treatment
Treatment of rosacea in SOC patients does not differ from other racial groups. Common strategies include gentle skin care, sun protection (sun protection factor 30+), and barrier repair creams. Topical agents include metronidazole, AZA, sodium sulfacetamide/sulfur, ivermectin, and retinoids.¹⁶ Oral treatments include antibiotics in the tetracycline family (eg, subantimicrobial dose doxycycline) and isotretinoin.¹⁶ Persistent erythema associated with rosacea can be treated with brimonidine¹⁹ and oxymetazoline.²⁰ Vascular lasers and intense pulsed light may be used to address the vascular components of rosacea²¹; however, the latter is not recommended in Fitzpatrick skin types IV through VI.

Facial Hyperpigmentation in SOC Patients

Hyperpigmentation disorders can be divided into conditions that affect Fitzpatrick skin types I through III and IV though VI. Mottled hyperpigmentation (photodamage) and solar lentigines occur in patients with lighter skin types as compared to melasma, PIH, and age-related (UV-induced) hyperpigmentation, which occur more commonly in patients with darker skin types. Facial hyperpigmentation is a common concern in SOC patients. In a survey of cosmetic concerns of 100 women with SOC, hyperpigmentation or dark spots (86%) and blotchy uneven skin (80%) were the top concerns.²² In addition, facial hyperpigmentation has been shown to negatively impact quality of life.²³

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs from a pathophysiological response to inflammation, cutaneous irritation or injury, and subsequent melanocyte lability. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation is a common presenting concern in patients with SOC and is seen as a result of many inflammatory skin disorders (eg, acne, eczema) and dermatologic procedures (eg, adverse reaction to electrodesiccation, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, laser surgery).²⁴

Melasma is an acquired idiopathic disorder of hyperpigmentation and often referred to as the mask of pregnancy (Figure 3). It occurs on sun-exposed areas of skin, mainly in women with Fitzpatrick skin types III through V. Associated factors or triggers include pregnancy, hormonal treatments, exposure to UV radiation, and medications.²⁵ Hereditary factors play a role in more than 40% of cases.²⁶

Other not-so-common facial dyschromias include contact dermatitis, acanthosis nigricans, exogenous ochronosis, lichen planus pigmentosus (associated with frontal fibrosing alopecia),²⁷ drug-induced hyperpigmentation (associated with minocycline or diltiazem),^28,29 and UV-induced (age-related) hyperpigmentation.

Treatment
The treatment of hyperpigmentation should provide the following: (1) protection from sun exposure; (2) inhibition of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine to melanin; (3) inhibition of melanosome transfer from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte; (4) removal of melanin from the epidermis through exfoliation; and (5) destruction or disruption of melanin in the dermis.³⁰ Therapies for facial hyperpigmentation are listed in Table 1.

Topical therapies include prescription medications and nonprescription cosmeceuticals. Prescription medications include hydroquinone (HQ), topical retinoids, and AZA. Hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, is the gold standard for skin lightening and often is used as a first-line therapy. It is used as a monotherapy (HQ 4%) or as a fixed combination with tretinoin 0.05% and fluocinolone 0.01%.³¹ Use caution with HQ in high concentrations (6% and higher) and low concentrations (2% [over-the-counter strength]) used long-term due to the potential risk of exogenous ochronosis.

Topical retinoids have been shown to be effective therapeutic agents for melasma and PIH. Tretinoin,³² tazarotene,³³ and adapalene³⁴ all have demonstrated efficacy for acne and acne-induced PIH in SOC patients. Patients must be monitored for the development of retinoid dermatitis and worsening of hyperpigmentation.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid obtained from cultures of Malassezia furfur. Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity, DNA synthesis, and mitochondrial enzymes, thus blocking direct cytotoxic effects toward melanocytes. Azelaic acid is approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for acne in a 20% cream formulation and rosacea in 15% gel and foam formulations, and it is used off label for melasma and PIH.³⁵

Oral tranexamic acid is currently used as a hemostatic agent due to its ability to inhibit the plasminogen-plasmin pathway. In melasma, it blocks the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes in the epidermis and modulates the vascular component of melasma in the dermis. In an open-label study, 561 Asian melasma patients were treated with oral tranexamic acid 250 mg twice daily for 4 months. Results demonstrated improvement in 90% of patients, and 7.1% reported adverse effects (eg, abdominal bloating and pain, nausea, vomiting, headache, tinnitus, numbness, menstrual irregularities).³⁶ Coagulation screening should be monitored monthly, and any patient with a history of clotting abnormalities should be excluded from off-label treatment with oral tranexamic acid.

Nonprescription cosmeceuticals are available over-the-counter or are office dispensed.³⁷ For optimal results, cosmeceutical agents for skin lightening are used in combination. Most of these combinations are HQ free and have additive benefits such as a multimodal skin lightening agent containing key ingredients that correct and prevent skin pigmentation via several pathways affecting melanogenesis.³⁸ It is an excellent alternative to HQ for mottled and diffuse UV-induced hyperpigmentation and can be used for maintenance therapy in patients with melasma.

Photoprotection is an essential component of therapy for melasma and PIH, but there is a paucity of data on the benefits for SOC patients. Halder et al³⁹ performed a randomized prospective study of 89 black and Hispanic patients who applied sunscreen with a sun protection factor of 30 or 60 daily for 8 weeks. Clinical grading, triplicate L*A*B chromameter, and clinical photography were taken at baseline and weeks 4 and 8. The results demonstrated skin lightening in both black and Hispanic patients and support the use of sunscreen in the prevention and management of dyschromia in SOC patients.³⁹ Visible light also may play a role in melasma development, and thus use of sunscreens or makeup containing iron oxides are recommended.⁴⁰

Procedural treatments for facial hyperpigmentation include microdermabrasion, chemical peels, lasers, energy-based devices, and microneedling. There are many types and formulations of chemical peeling agents available; however, superficial and medium-depth chemical peels are recommended for SOC patients (Table 2). Deep chemical peels are not recommended for SOC patients due to the potential increased risk for PIH and scarring.

Cosmetic Enhancement in SOC Patients

Cosmetic procedures are gaining popularity in the SOC population and account for more than 20% of cosmetic procedures in the United States.⁴¹ Facial cosmetic concerns in SOC include dyschromia, benign growths (dermatosis papulosa nigra), hyperkinetic facial lines, volume loss, and skin laxity.⁴² Key principles to consider when treating SOC patients are the impact of ethnicity on aging and facial structure, the patient’s desired cosmetic outcome, tissue reaction to anticipated treatments, and the patient’s expectations for recommended therapies.

Aging in SOC Patients
Skin aging can be classified as intrinsic aging or extrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging is genetic and involves subsurface changes such as volume loss, muscle atrophy, and resorption of bony structure. Extrinsic aging (or photoaging) involves surface changes of the epidermis/dermis and manifests as mottled pigmentation, textural changes, and fine wrinkling. Due to the photoprotection of melanin (black skin=SPF 13.4), skin aging in SOC patients is delayed by 10 to 20 years.⁴³ In addition, SOC patients have more reactive collagen and can benefit from noninvasive cosmetic procedures such as fillers and skin-tightening procedures.⁴²

Cosmetic Treatments and Procedures
Dermatosis papulosa nigra (benign growths of skin that have a genetic predisposition)⁴⁴ occur mainly on the face but can involve the entire body. Treatment modalities include electrodesiccation, cryotherapy, scissor excision, and laser surgery.⁴⁵

Treatment of hyperkinetic facial lines with botulinum toxin type A is a safe and effective procedure in patients with SOC. Grimes and Shabazz⁴⁶ performed a 4-month, randomized, double-blind study that evaluated the treatment of glabellar lines in women with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI. The results demonstrated that the duration of effects was the same in the patients who received either 20 or 30 U of botulinum toxin type A.⁴⁶ Dynamic rhytides (furrows and frown/scowl lines arising from laughing, frowning, or smiling) can be treated safely in patients with SOC using botulinum toxin type A off label for relaxation of the upper and lower hyperkinetic muscles that result in these unwanted signs of aging. Botulinum toxin type A often is used for etched-in crow’s-feet, which rarely are evident in SOC patients.⁴⁷ Facial shaping also can be accomplished by injecting botulinum toxin type A in combination with soft-tissue dermal fillers.⁴⁷

Although black individuals do not experience perioral rhytides at the frequency of white individuals, they experience a variety of other cosmetic issues related to skin sagging and sinking. Currently available hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers have been shown to be safe in patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV through VI.⁴⁸ Two studies evaluated fillers in patients with SOC, specifically HA⁴⁹ and calcium hydroxylapatite,⁵⁰ focused on treatment of the nasolabial folds and the potential risk for dyspigmentation and keloidal scarring. Taylor et al⁴⁹ noted that the risk of hyperpigmentation was 6% to 9% for large- and small-particle HA, respectively, and was associated with the serial or multiple puncture injection technique. No hypertrophic or keloidal scarring occurred in both studies.^49,50

Facial contouring applications with fillers include glabellar lines, temples, nasal bridge, tear troughs, malar and submalar areas, nasolabial folds, radial lines, lips, marionette lines, mental crease, and chin. Hyaluronic acid fillers also can be used for lip enhancement.⁴⁷ Although white women are looking to increase the size of their lips, black women are seeking augmentation to restore their lip size to that of their youth. Black individuals do not experience the same frequency of perioral rhytides as white patients, but they experience a variety of other issues related to skin sagging and sinking. Unlike white women, enhancement of the vermilion border rarely is performed in black women due to development of rhytides, predominantly in the body of the lip below the vermilion border in response to volume loss in the upper lip while the lower lip usually maintains its same appearance.⁴⁷

Facial enhancement utilizing poly-L-lactic acid can be used safely in SOC patients.⁵¹ Poly-L-lactic acid microparticles induce collagen formation, leading to dermal thickening over 3 to 6 months; however, multiple sessions are required to achieve optimal aesthetic results.

Patients with more reactive collagen can benefit from noninvasive cosmetic procedures such as skin-tightening procedures.⁵² Radiofrequency and microfocused ultrasound are cosmetic procedures used to provide skin tightening and facial lifting. They are safe and effective treatments for patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI.⁵³ Histologically, there is less thinning of collagen bundles and elastic tissue in ethnic skin. Due to stimulation of collagen by these procedures, most SOC patients will experience a more enhanced response, requiring fewer treatment sessions than white individuals.

Conclusion

Medical and aesthetic facial concerns in SOC patients vary and can be a source of emotional and psychological distress that can negatively impact quality of life. The approach to the treatment of SOC patients should be a balance between tolerability and efficacy, considering the potential risk for PIH.

The approach to the treatment of common skin disorders and cosmetic concerns in patients with skin of color (SOC) requires the clinician to understand the biological differences, nuances, and special considerations that are unique to patients with darker skin types.^1-3 This article addresses 4 common facial concerns in SOC patients—acne, rosacea, facial hyperpigmentation, and cosmetic enhancement—and provides treatment recommendations and management pearls to assist the clinician with optimal outcomes for SOC patients.

Acne in SOC Patients

Acne vulgaris is one of the most common conditions that dermatologists treat and is estimated to affect 40 to 50 million individuals in the United States.¹ Many of these acne patients are individuals with SOC.^2-4 A study of 2835 females (aged 10–70 years) conducted in 4 different cities—Los Angeles, California; London, United Kingdom; Akita, Japan; and Rome, Italy—demonstrated acne prevalence of 37% in blacks, 32% in Hispanics, 30% in Asians, 24% in whites, and 23% in Continental Indians.⁵ Blacks, Hispanics, and Continental Indians demonstrated equal prevalence with comedonal and inflammatory acne. Asians displayed more inflammatory acne lesions than comedones. In contrast, whites demonstrated more comedones than inflammatory acne. Dyspigmentation, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and atrophic scars were more common in black and Hispanic females than other ethnicities.⁵ This study illustrated that acne-induced PIH is a common sequela in SOC patients and is the main reason they seek treatment.^6,7

The pathogenesis of acne is the same in all racial and ethnic groups: (1) follicular hyperkeratinization and the formation of a microcomedone caused by abnormal desquamation of the keratinocytes within the sebaceous follicle, (2) production of sebum by circulating androgens, (3) proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, and (4) inflammation. Subclinical inflammation is present throughout all stages of acne, including normal-appearing skin, inflammatory lesions, comedones, and scarring, and may contribute to PIH in acne patients with SOC (Figure 1).⁸ A thorough history should be obtained from acne patients, including answers to the following questions⁷:

• What skin and hair care products do you use?
• Do you use sunscreen daily?
• What cosmetic products or makeup do you use?
• Do you use any ethnic skin care products, including skin lightening creams?
• Do you have a history of keloids?

It is important to ask these questions to assess if the SOC patient has developed pomade acne,⁹ acne cosmetica,¹⁰ or a potential risk of skin irritation from the use of skin care practices. It is best to take total control of the patient’s skin care regimen and discontinue use of toners, astringents, witch hazel, exfoliants, and rubbing alcohol, which may lead to skin dryness and irritation, particularly when combined with topical acne medications.

Treatment
Treatment of acne in SOC patients is similar to generally recommended treatments, with special considerations. Consider the following key points when treating acne in SOC patients:

• Treat acne early and aggressively to prevent or minimize subsequent PIH and acne scarring.
• Balance aggressive treatment with nonirritating topical skin care.
• Most importantly, target PIH in addition to acne and choose a regimen that limits skin irritation that might exacerbate existing PIH.⁷

Develop a maintenance program to control future breakouts. Topical agents can be used as monotherapy or in fixed combinations and may include benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, dapsone, azelaic acid (AZA), and retinoids. Similar to white patients, topical retinoids remain a first-line treatment for acne in patients with SOC.^11,12

Tolerability must be managed in SOC acne patients. Therapeutic maneuvers that can be instituted should include a discussion on using gentle skin care, initiating therapy with a retinoid applied every other night starting with a low concentration and gradually titrating up, and applying a moisturizer before or after applying acne medication. Oral therapies consist of antibiotics (doxycycline, minocycline), retinoids (isotretinoin), and hormonal modulators (oral contraceptives, spironolactone). Isotretinoin, recommended for patients with nodulocystic acne, may play a possible role in treating acne-induced PIH.¹³

Two common procedural therapies for acne include comedone extraction and intralesional corticosteroid injection. A 6- to 8-week course of a topical retinoid prior to comedonal extraction may facilitate the procedure and is recommended in SOC patients to help reduce cutaneous trauma and PIH.¹¹ Inflammatory acne lesions can be treated with intralesional injection of triamcinolone acetonide 2.5 or 5.0 mg/mL, which usually reduces inflammation within 2 to 5 days.¹¹

Treatment of acne-induced PIH includes sun protection, topical and oral medications, chemical peels, lasers, and energy devices. Treatment of hypertrophic scarring and keloids involves intralesional injection of triamcinolone acetonide 20, 30, or 40 mg/mL every 4 weeks until the lesion is flat.¹¹

Superficial chemical peels can be used to treat acne and PIH in SOC patients,¹⁴ such as salicylic acid (20%–30%), glycolic acid (20%–70%), trichloroacetic acid (15%–30%), and Jessner peels.

Acne Scarring
Surgical approaches to acne scarring in patients with SOC include elliptical excision, punch excision, punch elevation, punch autografting, dermal grafting, dermal planning, subcutaneous incision (subcision), dermabrasion, microneedling, fillers, and laser skin resurfacing. The treatment of choice depends on the size, type, and depth of the scar and the clinician’s preference.

Lasers
Fractional photothermolysis has emerged as a treatment option for acne scars in SOC patients. This procedure produces microscopic columns of thermal injury in the epidermis and dermis, sparing the surrounding tissue and minimizing downtime and adverse events. Because fractional photothermolysis does not target melanin and produces limited epidermal injury, darker Fitzpatrick skin types (IV–VI) can be safely and effectively treated with this procedure.¹⁵

Rosacea in SOC Patients

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. It commonly is seen in Fitzpatrick skin types I and II; however, rosacea can occur in all skin types (Figure 2). Triggers include emotional stress, extreme environmental temperatures, hot and spicy foods, red wine or alcohol, and topical irritants or allergens found in common cosmetic products.¹⁶

Data suggest that 4% of rosacea patients in the United States are of African, Latino, or Asian descent.¹¹ National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey data revealed that of 31.5 million rosacea visits, 2% of patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino. In a 5-year longitudinal study of 2587 rosacea patients enrolled in Medicaid in North Carolina who were prescribed at least 1 topical treatment for rosacea, 16.27% were black and 10% were of a race other than white.¹⁷

Although the pathogenesis of rosacea is unclear, hypotheses include immune system abnormalities, neurogenic dysregulation, presence of microorganisms (eg, Demodex folliculorum), UV damage, and skin barrier dysfunction.¹⁸

The 4 major subtypes of rosacea are erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea.¹⁶ Interestingly, rosacea in SOC patients may present with hypopigmentation surrounding the borders of the facial erythema. For phymatous rosacea, isotretinoin may reduce incipient rhinophyma but must be carefully monitored and pregnancy must be excluded. Surgical or laser therapy may be indicated to recontour the nose if severe.

There are several skin conditions that can present with facial erythema in patients with SOC, including seborrheic dermatitis, systemic lupus erythematosus, and contact dermatitis. It is important to note that the detection of facial erythema in darker skin types may be difficult; therefore, laboratory evaluation (antinuclear antibodies), patch testing, and skin biopsy should be considered if the clinical diagnosis is unclear.

Treatment
Treatment of rosacea in SOC patients does not differ from other racial groups. Common strategies include gentle skin care, sun protection (sun protection factor 30+), and barrier repair creams. Topical agents include metronidazole, AZA, sodium sulfacetamide/sulfur, ivermectin, and retinoids.¹⁶ Oral treatments include antibiotics in the tetracycline family (eg, subantimicrobial dose doxycycline) and isotretinoin.¹⁶ Persistent erythema associated with rosacea can be treated with brimonidine¹⁹ and oxymetazoline.²⁰ Vascular lasers and intense pulsed light may be used to address the vascular components of rosacea²¹; however, the latter is not recommended in Fitzpatrick skin types IV through VI.

Facial Hyperpigmentation in SOC Patients

Hyperpigmentation disorders can be divided into conditions that affect Fitzpatrick skin types I through III and IV though VI. Mottled hyperpigmentation (photodamage) and solar lentigines occur in patients with lighter skin types as compared to melasma, PIH, and age-related (UV-induced) hyperpigmentation, which occur more commonly in patients with darker skin types. Facial hyperpigmentation is a common concern in SOC patients. In a survey of cosmetic concerns of 100 women with SOC, hyperpigmentation or dark spots (86%) and blotchy uneven skin (80%) were the top concerns.²² In addition, facial hyperpigmentation has been shown to negatively impact quality of life.²³

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs from a pathophysiological response to inflammation, cutaneous irritation or injury, and subsequent melanocyte lability. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation is a common presenting concern in patients with SOC and is seen as a result of many inflammatory skin disorders (eg, acne, eczema) and dermatologic procedures (eg, adverse reaction to electrodesiccation, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, laser surgery).²⁴

Melasma is an acquired idiopathic disorder of hyperpigmentation and often referred to as the mask of pregnancy (Figure 3). It occurs on sun-exposed areas of skin, mainly in women with Fitzpatrick skin types III through V. Associated factors or triggers include pregnancy, hormonal treatments, exposure to UV radiation, and medications.²⁵ Hereditary factors play a role in more than 40% of cases.²⁶

Other not-so-common facial dyschromias include contact dermatitis, acanthosis nigricans, exogenous ochronosis, lichen planus pigmentosus (associated with frontal fibrosing alopecia),²⁷ drug-induced hyperpigmentation (associated with minocycline or diltiazem),^28,29 and UV-induced (age-related) hyperpigmentation.

Treatment
The treatment of hyperpigmentation should provide the following: (1) protection from sun exposure; (2) inhibition of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine to melanin; (3) inhibition of melanosome transfer from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte; (4) removal of melanin from the epidermis through exfoliation; and (5) destruction or disruption of melanin in the dermis.³⁰ Therapies for facial hyperpigmentation are listed in Table 1.

Topical therapies include prescription medications and nonprescription cosmeceuticals. Prescription medications include hydroquinone (HQ), topical retinoids, and AZA. Hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, is the gold standard for skin lightening and often is used as a first-line therapy. It is used as a monotherapy (HQ 4%) or as a fixed combination with tretinoin 0.05% and fluocinolone 0.01%.³¹ Use caution with HQ in high concentrations (6% and higher) and low concentrations (2% [over-the-counter strength]) used long-term due to the potential risk of exogenous ochronosis.

Topical retinoids have been shown to be effective therapeutic agents for melasma and PIH. Tretinoin,³² tazarotene,³³ and adapalene³⁴ all have demonstrated efficacy for acne and acne-induced PIH in SOC patients. Patients must be monitored for the development of retinoid dermatitis and worsening of hyperpigmentation.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid obtained from cultures of Malassezia furfur. Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity, DNA synthesis, and mitochondrial enzymes, thus blocking direct cytotoxic effects toward melanocytes. Azelaic acid is approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for acne in a 20% cream formulation and rosacea in 15% gel and foam formulations, and it is used off label for melasma and PIH.³⁵

Oral tranexamic acid is currently used as a hemostatic agent due to its ability to inhibit the plasminogen-plasmin pathway. In melasma, it blocks the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes in the epidermis and modulates the vascular component of melasma in the dermis. In an open-label study, 561 Asian melasma patients were treated with oral tranexamic acid 250 mg twice daily for 4 months. Results demonstrated improvement in 90% of patients, and 7.1% reported adverse effects (eg, abdominal bloating and pain, nausea, vomiting, headache, tinnitus, numbness, menstrual irregularities).³⁶ Coagulation screening should be monitored monthly, and any patient with a history of clotting abnormalities should be excluded from off-label treatment with oral tranexamic acid.

Nonprescription cosmeceuticals are available over-the-counter or are office dispensed.³⁷ For optimal results, cosmeceutical agents for skin lightening are used in combination. Most of these combinations are HQ free and have additive benefits such as a multimodal skin lightening agent containing key ingredients that correct and prevent skin pigmentation via several pathways affecting melanogenesis.³⁸ It is an excellent alternative to HQ for mottled and diffuse UV-induced hyperpigmentation and can be used for maintenance therapy in patients with melasma.

Photoprotection is an essential component of therapy for melasma and PIH, but there is a paucity of data on the benefits for SOC patients. Halder et al³⁹ performed a randomized prospective study of 89 black and Hispanic patients who applied sunscreen with a sun protection factor of 30 or 60 daily for 8 weeks. Clinical grading, triplicate L*A*B chromameter, and clinical photography were taken at baseline and weeks 4 and 8. The results demonstrated skin lightening in both black and Hispanic patients and support the use of sunscreen in the prevention and management of dyschromia in SOC patients.³⁹ Visible light also may play a role in melasma development, and thus use of sunscreens or makeup containing iron oxides are recommended.⁴⁰

Procedural treatments for facial hyperpigmentation include microdermabrasion, chemical peels, lasers, energy-based devices, and microneedling. There are many types and formulations of chemical peeling agents available; however, superficial and medium-depth chemical peels are recommended for SOC patients (Table 2). Deep chemical peels are not recommended for SOC patients due to the potential increased risk for PIH and scarring.

Cosmetic Enhancement in SOC Patients

Cosmetic procedures are gaining popularity in the SOC population and account for more than 20% of cosmetic procedures in the United States.⁴¹ Facial cosmetic concerns in SOC include dyschromia, benign growths (dermatosis papulosa nigra), hyperkinetic facial lines, volume loss, and skin laxity.⁴² Key principles to consider when treating SOC patients are the impact of ethnicity on aging and facial structure, the patient’s desired cosmetic outcome, tissue reaction to anticipated treatments, and the patient’s expectations for recommended therapies.

Aging in SOC Patients
Skin aging can be classified as intrinsic aging or extrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging is genetic and involves subsurface changes such as volume loss, muscle atrophy, and resorption of bony structure. Extrinsic aging (or photoaging) involves surface changes of the epidermis/dermis and manifests as mottled pigmentation, textural changes, and fine wrinkling. Due to the photoprotection of melanin (black skin=SPF 13.4), skin aging in SOC patients is delayed by 10 to 20 years.⁴³ In addition, SOC patients have more reactive collagen and can benefit from noninvasive cosmetic procedures such as fillers and skin-tightening procedures.⁴²

Cosmetic Treatments and Procedures
Dermatosis papulosa nigra (benign growths of skin that have a genetic predisposition)⁴⁴ occur mainly on the face but can involve the entire body. Treatment modalities include electrodesiccation, cryotherapy, scissor excision, and laser surgery.⁴⁵

Treatment of hyperkinetic facial lines with botulinum toxin type A is a safe and effective procedure in patients with SOC. Grimes and Shabazz⁴⁶ performed a 4-month, randomized, double-blind study that evaluated the treatment of glabellar lines in women with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI. The results demonstrated that the duration of effects was the same in the patients who received either 20 or 30 U of botulinum toxin type A.⁴⁶ Dynamic rhytides (furrows and frown/scowl lines arising from laughing, frowning, or smiling) can be treated safely in patients with SOC using botulinum toxin type A off label for relaxation of the upper and lower hyperkinetic muscles that result in these unwanted signs of aging. Botulinum toxin type A often is used for etched-in crow’s-feet, which rarely are evident in SOC patients.⁴⁷ Facial shaping also can be accomplished by injecting botulinum toxin type A in combination with soft-tissue dermal fillers.⁴⁷

Although black individuals do not experience perioral rhytides at the frequency of white individuals, they experience a variety of other cosmetic issues related to skin sagging and sinking. Currently available hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers have been shown to be safe in patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV through VI.⁴⁸ Two studies evaluated fillers in patients with SOC, specifically HA⁴⁹ and calcium hydroxylapatite,⁵⁰ focused on treatment of the nasolabial folds and the potential risk for dyspigmentation and keloidal scarring. Taylor et al⁴⁹ noted that the risk of hyperpigmentation was 6% to 9% for large- and small-particle HA, respectively, and was associated with the serial or multiple puncture injection technique. No hypertrophic or keloidal scarring occurred in both studies.^49,50

Facial contouring applications with fillers include glabellar lines, temples, nasal bridge, tear troughs, malar and submalar areas, nasolabial folds, radial lines, lips, marionette lines, mental crease, and chin. Hyaluronic acid fillers also can be used for lip enhancement.⁴⁷ Although white women are looking to increase the size of their lips, black women are seeking augmentation to restore their lip size to that of their youth. Black individuals do not experience the same frequency of perioral rhytides as white patients, but they experience a variety of other issues related to skin sagging and sinking. Unlike white women, enhancement of the vermilion border rarely is performed in black women due to development of rhytides, predominantly in the body of the lip below the vermilion border in response to volume loss in the upper lip while the lower lip usually maintains its same appearance.⁴⁷

Facial enhancement utilizing poly-L-lactic acid can be used safely in SOC patients.⁵¹ Poly-L-lactic acid microparticles induce collagen formation, leading to dermal thickening over 3 to 6 months; however, multiple sessions are required to achieve optimal aesthetic results.

Patients with more reactive collagen can benefit from noninvasive cosmetic procedures such as skin-tightening procedures.⁵² Radiofrequency and microfocused ultrasound are cosmetic procedures used to provide skin tightening and facial lifting. They are safe and effective treatments for patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI.⁵³ Histologically, there is less thinning of collagen bundles and elastic tissue in ethnic skin. Due to stimulation of collagen by these procedures, most SOC patients will experience a more enhanced response, requiring fewer treatment sessions than white individuals.

Conclusion

Medical and aesthetic facial concerns in SOC patients vary and can be a source of emotional and psychological distress that can negatively impact quality of life. The approach to the treatment of SOC patients should be a balance between tolerability and efficacy, considering the potential risk for PIH.

The approach to the treatment of common skin disorders and cosmetic concerns in patients with skin of color (SOC) requires the clinician to understand the biological differences, nuances, and special considerations that are unique to patients with darker skin types.^1-3 This article addresses 4 common facial concerns in SOC patients—acne, rosacea, facial hyperpigmentation, and cosmetic enhancement—and provides treatment recommendations and management pearls to assist the clinician with optimal outcomes for SOC patients.

Acne in SOC Patients

Acne vulgaris is one of the most common conditions that dermatologists treat and is estimated to affect 40 to 50 million individuals in the United States.¹ Many of these acne patients are individuals with SOC.^2-4 A study of 2835 females (aged 10–70 years) conducted in 4 different cities—Los Angeles, California; London, United Kingdom; Akita, Japan; and Rome, Italy—demonstrated acne prevalence of 37% in blacks, 32% in Hispanics, 30% in Asians, 24% in whites, and 23% in Continental Indians.⁵ Blacks, Hispanics, and Continental Indians demonstrated equal prevalence with comedonal and inflammatory acne. Asians displayed more inflammatory acne lesions than comedones. In contrast, whites demonstrated more comedones than inflammatory acne. Dyspigmentation, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and atrophic scars were more common in black and Hispanic females than other ethnicities.⁵ This study illustrated that acne-induced PIH is a common sequela in SOC patients and is the main reason they seek treatment.^6,7

The pathogenesis of acne is the same in all racial and ethnic groups: (1) follicular hyperkeratinization and the formation of a microcomedone caused by abnormal desquamation of the keratinocytes within the sebaceous follicle, (2) production of sebum by circulating androgens, (3) proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, and (4) inflammation. Subclinical inflammation is present throughout all stages of acne, including normal-appearing skin, inflammatory lesions, comedones, and scarring, and may contribute to PIH in acne patients with SOC (Figure 1).⁸ A thorough history should be obtained from acne patients, including answers to the following questions⁷:

• What skin and hair care products do you use?
• Do you use sunscreen daily?
• What cosmetic products or makeup do you use?
• Do you use any ethnic skin care products, including skin lightening creams?
• Do you have a history of keloids?

It is important to ask these questions to assess if the SOC patient has developed pomade acne,⁹ acne cosmetica,¹⁰ or a potential risk of skin irritation from the use of skin care practices. It is best to take total control of the patient’s skin care regimen and discontinue use of toners, astringents, witch hazel, exfoliants, and rubbing alcohol, which may lead to skin dryness and irritation, particularly when combined with topical acne medications.

Treatment
Treatment of acne in SOC patients is similar to generally recommended treatments, with special considerations. Consider the following key points when treating acne in SOC patients:

• Treat acne early and aggressively to prevent or minimize subsequent PIH and acne scarring.
• Balance aggressive treatment with nonirritating topical skin care.
• Most importantly, target PIH in addition to acne and choose a regimen that limits skin irritation that might exacerbate existing PIH.⁷

Develop a maintenance program to control future breakouts. Topical agents can be used as monotherapy or in fixed combinations and may include benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, dapsone, azelaic acid (AZA), and retinoids. Similar to white patients, topical retinoids remain a first-line treatment for acne in patients with SOC.^11,12

Tolerability must be managed in SOC acne patients. Therapeutic maneuvers that can be instituted should include a discussion on using gentle skin care, initiating therapy with a retinoid applied every other night starting with a low concentration and gradually titrating up, and applying a moisturizer before or after applying acne medication. Oral therapies consist of antibiotics (doxycycline, minocycline), retinoids (isotretinoin), and hormonal modulators (oral contraceptives, spironolactone). Isotretinoin, recommended for patients with nodulocystic acne, may play a possible role in treating acne-induced PIH.¹³

Two common procedural therapies for acne include comedone extraction and intralesional corticosteroid injection. A 6- to 8-week course of a topical retinoid prior to comedonal extraction may facilitate the procedure and is recommended in SOC patients to help reduce cutaneous trauma and PIH.¹¹ Inflammatory acne lesions can be treated with intralesional injection of triamcinolone acetonide 2.5 or 5.0 mg/mL, which usually reduces inflammation within 2 to 5 days.¹¹

Treatment of acne-induced PIH includes sun protection, topical and oral medications, chemical peels, lasers, and energy devices. Treatment of hypertrophic scarring and keloids involves intralesional injection of triamcinolone acetonide 20, 30, or 40 mg/mL every 4 weeks until the lesion is flat.¹¹

Superficial chemical peels can be used to treat acne and PIH in SOC patients,¹⁴ such as salicylic acid (20%–30%), glycolic acid (20%–70%), trichloroacetic acid (15%–30%), and Jessner peels.

Acne Scarring
Surgical approaches to acne scarring in patients with SOC include elliptical excision, punch excision, punch elevation, punch autografting, dermal grafting, dermal planning, subcutaneous incision (subcision), dermabrasion, microneedling, fillers, and laser skin resurfacing. The treatment of choice depends on the size, type, and depth of the scar and the clinician’s preference.

Lasers
Fractional photothermolysis has emerged as a treatment option for acne scars in SOC patients. This procedure produces microscopic columns of thermal injury in the epidermis and dermis, sparing the surrounding tissue and minimizing downtime and adverse events. Because fractional photothermolysis does not target melanin and produces limited epidermal injury, darker Fitzpatrick skin types (IV–VI) can be safely and effectively treated with this procedure.¹⁵

Rosacea in SOC Patients

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory disorder that affects the vasculature and pilosebaceous units of the face. It commonly is seen in Fitzpatrick skin types I and II; however, rosacea can occur in all skin types (Figure 2). Triggers include emotional stress, extreme environmental temperatures, hot and spicy foods, red wine or alcohol, and topical irritants or allergens found in common cosmetic products.¹⁶

Data suggest that 4% of rosacea patients in the United States are of African, Latino, or Asian descent.¹¹ National Ambulatory Medical Care Survey data revealed that of 31.5 million rosacea visits, 2% of patients were black, 2.3% were Asian or Pacific Islander, and 3.9% were Hispanic or Latino. In a 5-year longitudinal study of 2587 rosacea patients enrolled in Medicaid in North Carolina who were prescribed at least 1 topical treatment for rosacea, 16.27% were black and 10% were of a race other than white.¹⁷

Although the pathogenesis of rosacea is unclear, hypotheses include immune system abnormalities, neurogenic dysregulation, presence of microorganisms (eg, Demodex folliculorum), UV damage, and skin barrier dysfunction.¹⁸

The 4 major subtypes of rosacea are erythematotelangiectatic, papulopustular, phymatous, and ocular rosacea.¹⁶ Interestingly, rosacea in SOC patients may present with hypopigmentation surrounding the borders of the facial erythema. For phymatous rosacea, isotretinoin may reduce incipient rhinophyma but must be carefully monitored and pregnancy must be excluded. Surgical or laser therapy may be indicated to recontour the nose if severe.

There are several skin conditions that can present with facial erythema in patients with SOC, including seborrheic dermatitis, systemic lupus erythematosus, and contact dermatitis. It is important to note that the detection of facial erythema in darker skin types may be difficult; therefore, laboratory evaluation (antinuclear antibodies), patch testing, and skin biopsy should be considered if the clinical diagnosis is unclear.

Treatment
Treatment of rosacea in SOC patients does not differ from other racial groups. Common strategies include gentle skin care, sun protection (sun protection factor 30+), and barrier repair creams. Topical agents include metronidazole, AZA, sodium sulfacetamide/sulfur, ivermectin, and retinoids.¹⁶ Oral treatments include antibiotics in the tetracycline family (eg, subantimicrobial dose doxycycline) and isotretinoin.¹⁶ Persistent erythema associated with rosacea can be treated with brimonidine¹⁹ and oxymetazoline.²⁰ Vascular lasers and intense pulsed light may be used to address the vascular components of rosacea²¹; however, the latter is not recommended in Fitzpatrick skin types IV through VI.

Facial Hyperpigmentation in SOC Patients

Hyperpigmentation disorders can be divided into conditions that affect Fitzpatrick skin types I through III and IV though VI. Mottled hyperpigmentation (photodamage) and solar lentigines occur in patients with lighter skin types as compared to melasma, PIH, and age-related (UV-induced) hyperpigmentation, which occur more commonly in patients with darker skin types. Facial hyperpigmentation is a common concern in SOC patients. In a survey of cosmetic concerns of 100 women with SOC, hyperpigmentation or dark spots (86%) and blotchy uneven skin (80%) were the top concerns.²² In addition, facial hyperpigmentation has been shown to negatively impact quality of life.²³

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs from a pathophysiological response to inflammation, cutaneous irritation or injury, and subsequent melanocyte lability. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation is a common presenting concern in patients with SOC and is seen as a result of many inflammatory skin disorders (eg, acne, eczema) and dermatologic procedures (eg, adverse reaction to electrodesiccation, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, laser surgery).²⁴

Melasma is an acquired idiopathic disorder of hyperpigmentation and often referred to as the mask of pregnancy (Figure 3). It occurs on sun-exposed areas of skin, mainly in women with Fitzpatrick skin types III through V. Associated factors or triggers include pregnancy, hormonal treatments, exposure to UV radiation, and medications.²⁵ Hereditary factors play a role in more than 40% of cases.²⁶

Other not-so-common facial dyschromias include contact dermatitis, acanthosis nigricans, exogenous ochronosis, lichen planus pigmentosus (associated with frontal fibrosing alopecia),²⁷ drug-induced hyperpigmentation (associated with minocycline or diltiazem),^28,29 and UV-induced (age-related) hyperpigmentation.

Treatment
The treatment of hyperpigmentation should provide the following: (1) protection from sun exposure; (2) inhibition of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine to melanin; (3) inhibition of melanosome transfer from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte; (4) removal of melanin from the epidermis through exfoliation; and (5) destruction or disruption of melanin in the dermis.³⁰ Therapies for facial hyperpigmentation are listed in Table 1.

Topical therapies include prescription medications and nonprescription cosmeceuticals. Prescription medications include hydroquinone (HQ), topical retinoids, and AZA. Hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, is the gold standard for skin lightening and often is used as a first-line therapy. It is used as a monotherapy (HQ 4%) or as a fixed combination with tretinoin 0.05% and fluocinolone 0.01%.³¹ Use caution with HQ in high concentrations (6% and higher) and low concentrations (2% [over-the-counter strength]) used long-term due to the potential risk of exogenous ochronosis.

Topical retinoids have been shown to be effective therapeutic agents for melasma and PIH. Tretinoin,³² tazarotene,³³ and adapalene³⁴ all have demonstrated efficacy for acne and acne-induced PIH in SOC patients. Patients must be monitored for the development of retinoid dermatitis and worsening of hyperpigmentation.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid obtained from cultures of Malassezia furfur. Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity, DNA synthesis, and mitochondrial enzymes, thus blocking direct cytotoxic effects toward melanocytes. Azelaic acid is approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for acne in a 20% cream formulation and rosacea in 15% gel and foam formulations, and it is used off label for melasma and PIH.³⁵

Oral tranexamic acid is currently used as a hemostatic agent due to its ability to inhibit the plasminogen-plasmin pathway. In melasma, it blocks the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes in the epidermis and modulates the vascular component of melasma in the dermis. In an open-label study, 561 Asian melasma patients were treated with oral tranexamic acid 250 mg twice daily for 4 months. Results demonstrated improvement in 90% of patients, and 7.1% reported adverse effects (eg, abdominal bloating and pain, nausea, vomiting, headache, tinnitus, numbness, menstrual irregularities).³⁶ Coagulation screening should be monitored monthly, and any patient with a history of clotting abnormalities should be excluded from off-label treatment with oral tranexamic acid.

Nonprescription cosmeceuticals are available over-the-counter or are office dispensed.³⁷ For optimal results, cosmeceutical agents for skin lightening are used in combination. Most of these combinations are HQ free and have additive benefits such as a multimodal skin lightening agent containing key ingredients that correct and prevent skin pigmentation via several pathways affecting melanogenesis.³⁸ It is an excellent alternative to HQ for mottled and diffuse UV-induced hyperpigmentation and can be used for maintenance therapy in patients with melasma.

Photoprotection is an essential component of therapy for melasma and PIH, but there is a paucity of data on the benefits for SOC patients. Halder et al³⁹ performed a randomized prospective study of 89 black and Hispanic patients who applied sunscreen with a sun protection factor of 30 or 60 daily for 8 weeks. Clinical grading, triplicate L*A*B chromameter, and clinical photography were taken at baseline and weeks 4 and 8. The results demonstrated skin lightening in both black and Hispanic patients and support the use of sunscreen in the prevention and management of dyschromia in SOC patients.³⁹ Visible light also may play a role in melasma development, and thus use of sunscreens or makeup containing iron oxides are recommended.⁴⁰

Procedural treatments for facial hyperpigmentation include microdermabrasion, chemical peels, lasers, energy-based devices, and microneedling. There are many types and formulations of chemical peeling agents available; however, superficial and medium-depth chemical peels are recommended for SOC patients (Table 2). Deep chemical peels are not recommended for SOC patients due to the potential increased risk for PIH and scarring.

Cosmetic Enhancement in SOC Patients

Cosmetic procedures are gaining popularity in the SOC population and account for more than 20% of cosmetic procedures in the United States.⁴¹ Facial cosmetic concerns in SOC include dyschromia, benign growths (dermatosis papulosa nigra), hyperkinetic facial lines, volume loss, and skin laxity.⁴² Key principles to consider when treating SOC patients are the impact of ethnicity on aging and facial structure, the patient’s desired cosmetic outcome, tissue reaction to anticipated treatments, and the patient’s expectations for recommended therapies.

Aging in SOC Patients
Skin aging can be classified as intrinsic aging or extrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging is genetic and involves subsurface changes such as volume loss, muscle atrophy, and resorption of bony structure. Extrinsic aging (or photoaging) involves surface changes of the epidermis/dermis and manifests as mottled pigmentation, textural changes, and fine wrinkling. Due to the photoprotection of melanin (black skin=SPF 13.4), skin aging in SOC patients is delayed by 10 to 20 years.⁴³ In addition, SOC patients have more reactive collagen and can benefit from noninvasive cosmetic procedures such as fillers and skin-tightening procedures.⁴²

Cosmetic Treatments and Procedures
Dermatosis papulosa nigra (benign growths of skin that have a genetic predisposition)⁴⁴ occur mainly on the face but can involve the entire body. Treatment modalities include electrodesiccation, cryotherapy, scissor excision, and laser surgery.⁴⁵

Treatment of hyperkinetic facial lines with botulinum toxin type A is a safe and effective procedure in patients with SOC. Grimes and Shabazz⁴⁶ performed a 4-month, randomized, double-blind study that evaluated the treatment of glabellar lines in women with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI. The results demonstrated that the duration of effects was the same in the patients who received either 20 or 30 U of botulinum toxin type A.⁴⁶ Dynamic rhytides (furrows and frown/scowl lines arising from laughing, frowning, or smiling) can be treated safely in patients with SOC using botulinum toxin type A off label for relaxation of the upper and lower hyperkinetic muscles that result in these unwanted signs of aging. Botulinum toxin type A often is used for etched-in crow’s-feet, which rarely are evident in SOC patients.⁴⁷ Facial shaping also can be accomplished by injecting botulinum toxin type A in combination with soft-tissue dermal fillers.⁴⁷

Although black individuals do not experience perioral rhytides at the frequency of white individuals, they experience a variety of other cosmetic issues related to skin sagging and sinking. Currently available hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers have been shown to be safe in patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV through VI.⁴⁸ Two studies evaluated fillers in patients with SOC, specifically HA⁴⁹ and calcium hydroxylapatite,⁵⁰ focused on treatment of the nasolabial folds and the potential risk for dyspigmentation and keloidal scarring. Taylor et al⁴⁹ noted that the risk of hyperpigmentation was 6% to 9% for large- and small-particle HA, respectively, and was associated with the serial or multiple puncture injection technique. No hypertrophic or keloidal scarring occurred in both studies.^49,50

Facial contouring applications with fillers include glabellar lines, temples, nasal bridge, tear troughs, malar and submalar areas, nasolabial folds, radial lines, lips, marionette lines, mental crease, and chin. Hyaluronic acid fillers also can be used for lip enhancement.⁴⁷ Although white women are looking to increase the size of their lips, black women are seeking augmentation to restore their lip size to that of their youth. Black individuals do not experience the same frequency of perioral rhytides as white patients, but they experience a variety of other issues related to skin sagging and sinking. Unlike white women, enhancement of the vermilion border rarely is performed in black women due to development of rhytides, predominantly in the body of the lip below the vermilion border in response to volume loss in the upper lip while the lower lip usually maintains its same appearance.⁴⁷

Facial enhancement utilizing poly-L-lactic acid can be used safely in SOC patients.⁵¹ Poly-L-lactic acid microparticles induce collagen formation, leading to dermal thickening over 3 to 6 months; however, multiple sessions are required to achieve optimal aesthetic results.

Patients with more reactive collagen can benefit from noninvasive cosmetic procedures such as skin-tightening procedures.⁵² Radiofrequency and microfocused ultrasound are cosmetic procedures used to provide skin tightening and facial lifting. They are safe and effective treatments for patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI.⁵³ Histologically, there is less thinning of collagen bundles and elastic tissue in ethnic skin. Due to stimulation of collagen by these procedures, most SOC patients will experience a more enhanced response, requiring fewer treatment sessions than white individuals.

Conclusion

Medical and aesthetic facial concerns in SOC patients vary and can be a source of emotional and psychological distress that can negatively impact quality of life. The approach to the treatment of SOC patients should be a balance between tolerability and efficacy, considering the potential risk for PIH.